Very good. Haha. Fine chuckle. I am now in your debt. Like that little impy thing in harry potter

Cheers
 
Thanks GT! I hate hijacking a thread.... sorry Wease. PAR is a sum of all useable light energy within the spectrum. Surely the area of the spectrum or wavelength distribution matters as much as the total PAR? I guess my question is... optimum spectrum plays a more significant role than total PAR? I guess I’ve never heard a big argument between quality vs quantity of light. Just because it’s “useable” does the plant want it?

I still have 2 Timber setups 4x50w each Cree that I’ve never used for a cycle. My young ones didn’t really care for them and i kept pulling them for my xml.
Just to clarify, PAR is NOT a sum. PAR is "Photosynthetic Active Radiation" and are the wavelengths of light that are used for photosynthesis, generally this is the part of the spectrum between approximately 400-700nm.

The key metric would be PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) which is a measurement of how much of that PAR is actually reaching the plants and is measured in micromoles (umols) per square meter per second.

The point being, the parts of the spectrum outside of the PAR range don't get used by the plant for photosynthesis, at all (although, UV & IR help trigger photosynthetic reactions when combined with specific PAR values). But, even if the PAR spectrum is there, it's the PPFD that tells you how much is getting to the plants. :Namaste:
 
That Choc mint looks tasty as fuck weasel..
I'm a hadron collider.
 
...given your need for heat and some technology, have you looked at the new Mars series?...a couple sp 250's would light up a 4 X 4, and apparently they throw quite a bit of heat...if it is too much, the drivers can be relocated outside the tent/room with a small modification...
...or possibly their ts1000's...2 would cover half the 4 X 4 space adequately...I've got 2 in a 2 X 4 space that will be getting fired up shortly...food for thought... :hmmmm:...

...cheerz...:high-five:...h00k...:hookah:...
 
I’m a little wary of the Mars stuff but I’ll check that out. Thanks.
There’s not really such a thing as too much heat for me within the practical limits of my power supply. It would just mean that the fans kick in more often to bring in fresh air from outside. (The vent fan is hooked to a thermostat for cooling). I draw from down low in a shaded spot and so the outside air doesn’t often get over 20°C in summer, if ever. Right now it’s ‘summer’ and it’s currently 8°C/46°F at my house. Hopefully the sun comes out and it warms a little....

I figure my plants need fresh air now and then anyway. Right now the fan kicks on every once in awhile and gives them some. If I had all LEDs presumably they’d be cold and suffocate.
The main/only reason for me to put some LEDs in part of flowering is to combat grower envy which has started to become more of a problem now that the Qboards are more common. So- better quality buds, in theory. At least I would like to compare.
While my environment is far from perfect to say the least- I can still often sense my buds hitting the wall with my current light quality.
Good cobs seem to also get good reviews- possibly as good as QBs and some would say better. Admittedly I have almost no idea what a cob is, but they sound like they’re good whatever they are.
:lot-o-toke:
 
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That should help you.. Man the qb outshine the cree3590.. All about how the plants uses now, as I know they love the 3590's..
 
I recently switched from hps to qb's and I feel like it was a solid decision. But I have to say that the qb's produce almost zero heat. They are bright AF and use lot less power. Mine are 4k which I know is better for veg but timber has qb's sometimes that are not listed on there menu. They gave me a great deal on a diy kit of 3 boards with a driver. If you're interested shoot them a DM they are sponsors
 
I recently switched from hps to qb's and I feel like it was a solid decision. But I have to say that the qb's produce almost zero heat. They are bright AF and use lot less power. Mine are 4k which I know is better for veg but timber has qb's sometimes that are not listed on there menu. They gave me a great deal on a diy kit of 3 boards with a driver. If you're interested shoot them a DM they are sponsors

I could be lacking in wattage for the space, but when I put a 4000k in veg, I noticed growth slowed frow the vigor I steadily had under 6500k T5s. I got some supplemental LED bulbs that are 6500k that I use for seeds/clones, but that seemed to have an overall positive effect, still, I'm not a fan of the 4000k in veg. Late veg maybe, but definitely not early/mid veg.
 
I could be lacking in wattage for the space, but when I put a 4000k in veg, I noticed growth slowed frow the vigor I steadily had under 6500k T5s. I got some supplemental LED bulbs that are 6500k that I use for seeds/clones, but that seemed to have an overall positive effect, still, I'm not a fan of the 4000k in veg. Late veg maybe, but definitely not early/mid veg.
I've never used t5's. But the 4k qb's seemed to be great in veg. I usually veg seedlings under old Mars gen 300's and larger veg plants under MH. I am not sure if the qb's outperformed the MH just yet, this is my first run with them. But I think they are just as good for sure, especially for a fraction of the power consumption. Right now I have them in my flower tent. They seem to be working good so far in flower but I'm sure 3k's would be better. Hopefully I'll get some 3k's soon to dedicate to flower tent
 
I use the 3k in bloom, they love that, but the 4k in veg not so much. I ditched the T5 fixture b/c of heat, but that aside, I loved that light, the light was bright and intense which gave it some depth. If I ever get a new veg light, it will be 5k or higher.
 
Note- as of tonight I’m switching my feeding routine around a little to accommodate what Hydro Buddy is telling me. Hydro Buddy is a program that Skybound seems to like a lot, which is where I heard of it. For anyone using bottled or granulated nutrients- basically it calculates the actual amounts of all macro and micro nutrients in your mix. If you are feeding x amount of bottle A and x amount of bottle B- it will show a list of amounts of all nutrients contained in that mix.
You can set ideal feeding targets based on what has worked for other people, and easily juggle things with your bottles and amounts theroef, till you hit a good target mix. For anyone here using bottled nutes and not always 100% happy, it looks like it could be super handy.
I don’t mind being totally slapdash, but I’ve always hated not really knowing what to feed the plants and not having control over things when they go sideways. It’s always been a case of me sort of tossing in a bit of this, a bit of that, in the dark about what they’re really getting. Monsanto is never there to hold my hand and snuggle me when things go wrong.
Reverse engineering what I used to feed the plants it doesn't look like I was too far off, but I can definitely see a few oddballs and potential issues.
I’m also still hoping somewhere deep inside that I can get the original P Chunk growing well again. It’s possible that some of its issues are deficiencies/excess of nutes. I’ve made a few simple changes. Hopefully I didn't screw up too bad and Hydro Buddy isn’t lying to me- we’ll see how this guinea pig makes out. Squeak squeak.
 
I just took down what I thought was a thick stem PC, but turns out, I have have lost that characteristic somewhere in my cloning. I don't keep moms, so I root my cuts, and send the mom into bloom. I hope to regain stem thickness and strength by upping my Calcium with supplemental gypsum. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and is only soluble to about 2 grams per liter (2.98 is the quote). Still, in my feed I accomplish 100 ppm of calcium, so to start, I'm only going to add 1/2 gram per gallon for a couple weeks an observe.
 
I think mine just hates me. It certainly hates flowering. But the fact that it can sometimes get almost to mid flower before it starts going for shit makes me think its capable of going all the way. Also according to Hydro Buddy my potassium levels have been too high which may account for some of the issues.
 
From what I see searching around, I don’t know if there’s a one size fits all description of K toxicity, because apparently it tends to cause deficiencies in other nutrients. Most often what I see in the PC is what looks like K deficiency. Attempting to increase K levels has never helped the problem though.
 
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