Un-Lucky Queen 12/12 Hempy

This is really fascinating to me. I never really even registered TR nutes on my radar. Now I'm loving what you're showing on the trimeter.

Are the little balls eventually biodegradable?

:nicethread:
 
Just think "Osmotic pressure" and you'll understand how they release at an even rate. These aren't little balls of fertilizer.....they're semi-permeable globes that encase fertilizer.

In my vegetable garden there are a bunch of nearly clear little balls here and there....empty Osmocote casings.

Because of Osmotic pressure, the nutes cross the membrane until the concentration on both sides equalize....remember they use these nutes in rice patties.

:smokin:


I know there's no magic involved, but the science is magical enough to amaze me ;).

The directions for these ferts say that it works best when worked into the top layer of soil as opposed to just mixing it evenly throughout the medium.

Since the top layer of soil dries out way before the rest of the container, I'm wondering why that is.

The release rate is consistent when wet, but it has to slow when the top layer dries out.
 
I know there's no magic involved, but the science is magical enough to amaze me ;).

The directions for these ferts say that it works best when worked into the top layer of soil as opposed to just mixing it evenly throughout the medium.

Since the top layer of soil dries out way before the rest of the container, I'm wondering why that is.

The release rate is consistent when wet, but it has to slow when the top layer dries out.

Most people top water, and when the water hits the Osmocote, the nutes release and are carried down throughout the medium.

If you have a flood and drain type set up, obviously the TRN's need to go towards to bottom.

I've given this some thought and have decided to split the charge for each hempy bucket as follows:

Half will be placed just above the drain.....the remainder will be about 2 inches below the top.

For the soil:
I'm going to mix half the charge into the soil, and the other half as a top dressing. This is how I did it last grow. The directions do allow for that usage as well. I also use it this way in the vegetable garden. As long as the water flows over the TRN....that's the important part.

From their website:

* 3rd Generation — Patterned Release Fertilizer
* Scotts Patterned Nutrient Release Technology delivers:
o Pre-defined release patterns
o Pre-defined longevity
* Coated N-P-K + magnesium and micronutrients; homogeneous
* Full season N-P-K, magnesium and micronutrients

Designed for general nursery and greenhouse production, special circumstances such as sensitive or high value crops, and dibbling equipment. Can be incorporated or surface applied. :smokin: Get the best return on your fertilizer investment, safely, by matching the nutrient release patterns with plant needs for optimal quality.
 
When applied as a top-dressing, they release when watered from the top, then slow down as the top layer of the medium dries out.

When incorporated, they stay wet longer and release more continuously, so the *total* amount of released fert *has* to be higher when incorporated.

I think your half-and-half plan is outstanding.
 
When applied as a top-dressing, they release when watered from the top, then slow down as the top layer of the medium dries out.

When incorporated, they stay wet longer and release more continuously, so the *total* amount of released fert *has* to be higher when incorporated.

I think your half-and-half plan is outstanding.

When it's dry....the osmosis stops.
However, when it's wet, the osmosis stops once the pressure equalizes on both sides of the membrane.

So, if you put them in water, they'll release nutes to a point.....and then stop. Remember, they aren't dissloving....they are escaping through a semi-permeable membrane.

What I'm doing right now is keeping the prill in about an inch of water overnight, then filling with RO. The PPM was just over 300, and my RO is about 15. In other words....this was consistent over 6 days.

If I want to raise PPM....I just add more prills.
 
When it's dry....the osmosis stops.
However, when it's wet, the osmosis stops once the pressure equalizes on both sides of the membrane.

So, if you put them in water, they'll release nutes to a point.....and then stop. Remember, they aren't dissloving....they are escaping through a semi-permeable membrane.

What I'm doing right now is keeping the prill in about an inch of water overnight, then filling with RO. The PPM was just over 300, and my RO is about 15. In other words....this was consistent over 6 days.

If I want to raise PPM....I just add more prills.

When you add more prills - does it bring the pH down as well? And do you compensate in the water?

How would you get say a 1200 ppm pH 6.2?

TIA.

:nicethread::peacetwo::rasta:
 
When you add more prills - does it bring the pH down as well? And do you compensate in the water?

How would you get say a 1200 ppm pH 6.2?

TIA.

:nicethread::peacetwo::rasta:

Regarding the PH....I don't know how much it drops yet. I'm still watching that. Also, keep in mind that this method is NOT recommended by the manufacturer. I'm merely playing around with these nutes until I transplant, at which time I'll use them as they are intended.

As far as shooting for 1200 ppm.....I'm not sure if that can be done. The reason is that we're not dissolving salts in water....we are balancing the osmotic pressure on both sides of a semi-permeable membrane.

I'll try adding more prills tonite and see what happens. However, as far as adjusting the PH, PH down will get the job done.

However, I don't think we're really looking for a target PPM with these nutes.

Think about it:

The nutes travel from inside the prill to the outside due to osmotic pressure. As soon as there is a lower concentration outside the prill---and moisture is present---ions (the nutes) migrate in order to balance the concentration.

So, as the plant takes in the salts....the concentration drops and the prills release more! It really doesn't matter what the PPM is, because the salts are always being topped off, along with the micro's. As long as there are enough prills to keep up with the plant's needs, no problem.

They are guaranteed not to burn the plants.
 
Doc - I'm loving the time released ferts discussion... might have to go pick up some Osmocote and Mater Magic... ;)

Reps again when I can... :nicethread:
OBX: Thanks for stopping by!
I already know that these nutes work well in soil. The question I have is how they work in hempy buckets....which I will test on this grow. There will also be some soil.....quite a bit of it.

I will also grow at least 1 hempy and 1 soil with Advanced Nutrients Connesiur and assorted additives as a comparison.

OK I'm starting to get real curious about these time release stuff.

Me too.....less than 20 bucks will last you more than two years.

DocBud it's a proper scientist. In a couple of months we'll have new growing technic with schedule already prepared for it. :slide:

I followed his Hempy grow and things I learned there made me to change my mind and I started to love Hempy's and I'm doing them now myself.

:peacetwo:

Hempy Hempy Hempy
:cheertwo: :cheertwo: :cheertwo:
 
Update:

As reported earlier, the No Mercy Lucky Queen seeds were crap. Only 8 out 53 germinated.

Of the 5 that I germinated, 3 of them are males so far. I should be able to tell sex on the other 2 tonite or tomorrow.

The Skunk/SourDiesel seeds are doing grand....they are fast catching up with the Lucky Queen. 17/18 of those sprouted.

I should be able to seperate them out in 2-3 days and then the fun begins!
 
No mercy really drop the Ball here DocBud.
This Journal would have been a Great Plug for them, Instead :cough:

Thanks for all your doing here, another great informative Read/Grow By DocBud.
:clap: :clap: :clap: :thumb:
 
Update:

I wish I could edit the title of this journal! I'm down to only 2 Lucky Queens.....I tossed out 3 males yesterday.

The Skunk/Sour Diesel have now caught up and will soon surpass the two remaining Lucky Queen, seen on the left in this picture.

The Lucky Queen are growing funny....all twisted and wrinkly. I guarantee it is the fault of the seeds, as the diesel are in the same cups, same environment----which is perfect in every way----same water, same nutrients, etc.

The Skunks all look healthy and normal.
IMG_07203.JPG
 
Lookin' good bro!

So how many days was it until you could sex them?

and I thought you were gonna try to make some Lucky Queen seeds, or are you going to cross them with a skunk/diesel male?

Are the skunks from fem seeds or reg?

How much longer till you put them in the bigger buckets?

If you glued a piece of buttered toast to a cat's back, would it still land on it's feet?
 
Lookin' good bro!

So how many days was it until you could sex them?

and I thought you were gonna try to make some Lucky Queen seeds, or are you going to cross them with a skunk/diesel male?

Are the skunks from fem seeds or reg?

How much longer till you put them in the bigger buckets?

If you glued a piece of buttered toast to a cat's back, would it still land on it's feet?

22 days from when the seeds were soaked I was able to discern well formed male pollen sacs, using a magnifying glass. The other two lucky's aren't quite so blatant to my noob eyes....but I'll get them in a day or two....same with the skunks.

I was going to try to make some seeds, but these plants

from Ripoff Seed Company (No Mercy)......buyer beware!!!!

are not growing healthy plants. Even the five that finally did sprout have never looked right, so I decided to wait on the seeds. I'll try the Santa Maria and Double Fun and see if I can make some seeds from some of them.

At this point I don't care about Cees strains....there's plenty of other good strains out there that actually sprout when you plant them.

These Skunk/Diesel are bred here locally by my friend. He does not like femmed seeds and has the following philosophy:

If you want to grow 15 plants, sprout 40 seeds and keep the 15 strongest females.

If you want seeds, breed the best female with the most potent/healthy male. Smoking the male is important....the one that has the best effect and/or best pheno is important when breeding.....that's his philosophy.

I'll put them in bigger buckets as soon as I know the sex for certain. Last grow, the plants got pretty big in these cups and were still not rootbound...so no hurry.

Regarding cats and toast.....that would make a good study, but not on my cats, please.
:rasta:

What would you like to call it?

un-Lucky Queen 12/12 Hempy
 
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