Turbo Bucket's Take On RADDWC: Grow Room Build-Up

Ohm the board both ways if you have a multimeter (pos to neg and neg to pos). One way shoud give you something. The other nothing. If you have nothing both ways, I suspect a blown LED.

I'm cooking, but will be on later.
 
I checked the original both ways to make sure I had good contact etc... When I checked the spare I only checked what I'm assuming was neg to pos as it also tested open but illuminated I assumed this was normal.
 
TurboBucket said:
I checked the original both ways to make sure I had good contact etc... When I checked the spare I only checked what I'm assuming was neg to pos as it also tested open but illuminated I assumed this was normal.
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Yes, it can illuminate a good board.
 
Can you get a good picture of the LEDs. I want to know if there are any electrical pads exposed that can be metered around the LEDs.
 
Are you using OHMs? If you are, you may not get a reading.

Do you have a diode check on your meter?
 
TurboBucket said:
That is the spare. But the bad board is showing the same thing?
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Oh yay, that is always fun.

Ok, explain exactly what the light did when the problem started.

Also, give me the manufacturer, where I can look up the connection diagram.
 
TurboBucket said:
Very limited data available. Photon Fantom Designs
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Ok....that is ok....we will figure it out.

Did one board just stop, or did the whole setup go out?
 
Everything fired up fine with all 5 boards in series measured 149v total circuit. Installed into the room. Ran it soft for the first day, 30-40% dimmer, the next day cranked it up ran full current 2100ma checking board surface and driver temp hourly or more frequently, max board temp 115°f max driver temp 110°f measured with non contact infrared thermometer. The next day I dropped the lights to a more appropriate height and dropped the current to ≈75%. About 6 hours later went to double check everything 3 boards were lit two were not. Pulled wires off front board plugged into spare all 5 lit. Disconnected that light and it's been running on 4 at 50% current since. Driver is 2100ma
 
TurboBucket said:
Everything fired up fine with all 5 boards in series measured 149v total circuit. Installed into the room. Ran it soft for the first day, 30-40% dimmer, the next day cranked it up ran full current 2100ma checking board surface and driver temp hourly or more frequently, max board temp 115°f max driver temp 110°f measured with non contact infrared thermometer. The next day I dropped the lights to a more appropriate height and dropped the current to ≈75%. About 6 hours later went to double check everything 3 boards were lit two were not. Pulled wires off front board plugged into spare all 5 lit. Disconnected that light and it's been running on 4 at 50% current since. Driver is 2100ma
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So currently there are only 4 boards running in a series circuit with a board missing?? Did you jumper out the connection for the missing board??
 
I'm not being a douche, but that shouldn't happen. It's impossible. We need to check the wiring, to make sure we are in series, and not in parallel.
 
Yes the 5th board is disconnected from the circuit. But that is where my confusion is coming from. In a series configuration I had 3 illuminated and 2 not. It sounds like mixed series/parallel wiring but the total circuit voltage is 120v
 
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