- Thread starter
- #2,261
Thanks penny. It works well enough. Definitely less labor intensive than mixing it by hand but still not perfect
Turbo Bucket's Take On RADDWC: Grow Room Build-Up
Thanks penny. It works well enough. Definitely less labor intensive than mixing it by hand but still not perfect
I’ve always made dry sift, haven’t tried to extract water hash
- Thread starter
- #2,263
I really like the water hash. I collect the dry sift from the trim bins. Those things freaking rock.
If anyone trims without one your losing tons of yummy dry sift.
The nicest part about the water hash is storing it later. Its soft and gooey so I press it together over and over again working it into a nice soft ball. Just tear/cut a piece off and good to go.
I always make a mess with my dry sift haha. I'm sure I could pile it up and put it in a bag or couple of plastic sheets and press it with a hot water bottle to get a similar consistency.
The water hash seems to taste better, and it generally has less plant material in it. It does kind of suck waiting for it to dry but with blotting screens and Baker's racks it's usually ready to smoke in a day or two depending on how big the patties are.
If anyone trims without one your losing tons of yummy dry sift.
The nicest part about the water hash is storing it later. Its soft and gooey so I press it together over and over again working it into a nice soft ball. Just tear/cut a piece off and good to go.
I always make a mess with my dry sift haha. I'm sure I could pile it up and put it in a bag or couple of plastic sheets and press it with a hot water bottle to get a similar consistency.
The water hash seems to taste better, and it generally has less plant material in it. It does kind of suck waiting for it to dry but with blotting screens and Baker's racks it's usually ready to smoke in a day or two depending on how big the patties are.
The hash I have now is a hard disc, just heat with a lighter to crumble it up.
TinyBuds
Well-Known Member
I've never actually had hash before, so It'll be a few firsts for me. We have house guests right now that don't know I'm growing, (Yey carbon filter) and we're trying to keep it that way so I doubt I'll get to it until they leave, which should be Saturday/Sunday.
- Thread starter
- #2,266
Haha I love that feeling. Cracks me up when the in laws sit directly over my silent/smell free plant factory oblivious to the magic occurring just under their feet.
BobbyZ
Well-Known Member
I fell off the thread for a second and look what I missed! Holy Freaking Moly!!!
Superb! 
Alright @TurboBucket , I've got 4 more boards on the way. I'm going to improve my lighting.
Superb! Alright @TurboBucket , I've got 4 more boards on the way. I'm going to improve my lighting.
- Thread starter
- #2,268
Just hanging with my buds. Serious note though these smell funny and it's got me worried. I think it's just from the blueberry but they don't smell like they usually do. First time with these strains but usually the first couple days always smell really similar. Hopefully it's not an indication of a problem. I left these hang in the mechanical room longer than normal so contamination is a possibility though unlikely.
Gonna try to get the trim finished on these today.
Gonna try to get the trim finished on these today.
- Thread starter
- #2,269
I fell off the thread for a second and look what I missed! Holy Freaking Moly!!!
Alright @TurboBucket , I've got 4 more boards on the way. I'm going to improve my lighting.
I'm a big fan of coverage. More boards=more buds. You can always dim them down.
BobbyZ
Well-Known Member
I bought some 3 foot aluminum corners today. I'm looking to make 2 - 3 board frames.
Have you got any simple plans for a frame to hold the boards?
- Thread starter
- #2,271
- Thread starter
- #2,272
Mine are super simple and not purty but they are effective.
All the tools I used
I cut two pieces of angle to my desired length. (The width measured from outside to outside on my tent poles)
When fitting the heatsinks to the rails I placed them inside the angle. The mounting holes are close enough to the edge if you flush mount the heatsink edge with the outside edge of the angle there's not enough clearance for the mounting hardware. Fitting them inside the angle prevents this. Mark and drill your holes. I used hex head bolts with nylock nuts and a flat washer to secure mine.
The ends I just hooked together with a couple zip screws because I had them laying around and they'll hold, but a nut and bolt is better.
You could also use L or 90 brackets to secure the corners, if you notch the rails and use L brackets you'll have a flush mounting surface on the ends compared to the overlapped joint on mine. (Cut out the black part marked below)
After the heatsinks are mounted to the rails I cut off a couple end caps so the sharp angles wouldn't poke into my tent.
To hang it I drilled holes in the ends of the rails and put keyrings through them, I used fishing leaders and another keyring to make the hanging wires. They hook onto ratchet hangers nicely.
Attach the boards to the heatsinks after installing the wiring in the frame and before hanging to prevent damage.
I use these little guys for wire management. They have a sticky back and zip ties thread through them nice and simple, can be reused with a new zip tie.
It's not the best tutorial but should get you on the right track. Just ask if something doesn't make sense.
Here's my big one. 3 sets of rails on a big end cap.
All the tools I used
I cut two pieces of angle to my desired length. (The width measured from outside to outside on my tent poles)
When fitting the heatsinks to the rails I placed them inside the angle. The mounting holes are close enough to the edge if you flush mount the heatsink edge with the outside edge of the angle there's not enough clearance for the mounting hardware. Fitting them inside the angle prevents this. Mark and drill your holes. I used hex head bolts with nylock nuts and a flat washer to secure mine.
The ends I just hooked together with a couple zip screws because I had them laying around and they'll hold, but a nut and bolt is better.
After the heatsinks are mounted to the rails I cut off a couple end caps so the sharp angles wouldn't poke into my tent.
To hang it I drilled holes in the ends of the rails and put keyrings through them, I used fishing leaders and another keyring to make the hanging wires. They hook onto ratchet hangers nicely.
Attach the boards to the heatsinks after installing the wiring in the frame and before hanging to prevent damage.
I use these little guys for wire management. They have a sticky back and zip ties thread through them nice and simple, can be reused with a new zip tie.
It's not the best tutorial but should get you on the right track. Just ask if something doesn't make sense.
Here's my big one. 3 sets of rails on a big end cap.
Silverfox125
Well-Known Member
.
BobbyZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks, that's exactly what I've had in my head. I've got 4 with heatsink and 4 without any. I'll do what you did and build one frame for heatsink and the other for just open boards. Maybe run an old mars reflector right in the center for supplemental bloom colors.Mine are super simple and not purty but they are effective.
All the tools I used
I cut two pieces of angle to my desired length. (The width measured from outside to outside on my tent poles)
When fitting the heatsinks to the rails I placed them inside the angle. The mounting holes are close enough to the edge if you flush mount the heatsink edge with the outside edge of the angle there's not enough clearance for the mounting hardware. Fitting them inside the angle prevents this. Mark and drill your holes. I used hex head bolts with nylock nuts and a flat washer to secure mine.
The ends I just hooked together with a couple zip screws because I had them laying around and they'll hold, but a nut and bolt is better.
You could also use L or 90 brackets to secure the corners, if you notch the rails and use L brackets you'll have a flush mounting surface on the ends compared to the overlapped joint on mine. (Cut out the black part marked below)
After the heatsinks are mounted to the rails I cut off a couple end caps so the sharp angles wouldn't poke into my tent.
To hang it I drilled holes in the ends of the rails and put keyrings through them, I used fishing leaders and another keyring to make the hanging wires. They hook onto ratchet hangers nicely.
Attach the boards to the heatsinks after installing the wiring in the frame and before hanging to prevent damage.
I use these little guys for wire management. They have a sticky back and zip ties thread through them nice and simple, can be reused with a new zip tie.
It's not the best tutorial but should get you on the right track. Just ask if something doesn't make sense.
Here's my big one. 3 sets of rails on a big end cap.
- Thread starter
- #2,275
I had a combo setup like that for awhile. Boards in the corners Maxbloom in the middle.
The big light doesn't have any heat sinks and it's basically the same thing. Just have to be more careful when mounting them so you don't ground out the PCB through the plastic coating, nylon washers are nice for that. Or a couple strips of electrical tape between the mounting surfaces.
I really love the atreum boards with heatsinks for the ease of installation, they're also the highest diode density I've found which leaves more room for airflow. Around the boards and frames. I can't really put anymore boards in the big unit without reducing the air exchange from the bottom half to the exhaust filter.
The big light doesn't have any heat sinks and it's basically the same thing. Just have to be more careful when mounting them so you don't ground out the PCB through the plastic coating, nylon washers are nice for that. Or a couple strips of electrical tape between the mounting surfaces.
I really love the atreum boards with heatsinks for the ease of installation, they're also the highest diode density I've found which leaves more room for airflow. Around the boards and frames. I can't really put anymore boards in the big unit without reducing the air exchange from the bottom half to the exhaust filter.
- Thread starter
- #2,276
All trimmed up
Jamers
Well-Known Member
Looking really nice!All trimmed up
Great looking light Turbo, you have me thinking now.
- Thread starter
- #2,279
I really love those mixed diode lights in the big fixture. I wish I could get my hands on some more of them. But the atreum lights work really well for the cost and the installation is super easy with the included heatsinks
Where did you source the Atreums?