Troy's 2nd - Autos - DP Ultimate & Euphoria, Meph Alien v Tangle, RQS Diesel

I couldn't resist and spent a couple hours assembly my COB Array. I probably spent another 2 hours on line making sure I had everything wired up correctly. I sure didn't want to fry my COBS when I ran the "Smoke Test".

I am fairly comfortable working with Electricity but by no means an electrician.

Step 1 - Assembly of Heat Sinks

The heat sinks are already drilled and tapped for ease of installation. Initially I unwrapped the heat sinks and the heat sink brackets. Easy as aligning the Bracket and screwing in 2 screws to each bracket.

1D472DA3-2433-4144-A073-04561EFB9D20.jpeg


D8ADEA13-90FC-4905-B06D-21AB93BA402C.jpeg


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Step 2 - Insert the heat sinks into the rails of the frame

Next I slid each of the heat sinks into the grove of the canopy rails and installed the end caps

E2422C75-F2F7-4752-8C9B-52D9B0A784F2.jpeg


F7B4FC9D-769B-4E85-980B-7BFEECFAB662.jpeg


Step 3 - Assembly of the COB's onto the heat sinks

Next I opened up the 5 COB's and into the Ideal Cob Holder. This is really easy. First you align the (+) on the COB to the (+) on the holder . There is a little spring that when pushed in allows the COBS to just click into place.

72E69E3C-8B8F-4B08-A677-AACAE2602AB4.jpeg


053CA83A-52F1-4DF2-BB92-A6CC02786247.jpeg


On the back of each COB you install a SurSeal Thermal Pad on each COB. The pads are double adhesive coated. At this point I only removed one protective side and attached to each COB.

4E9BCE8E-3A09-4915-94FB-32113292271B.jpeg


Next I installed two screws on each heat sink to align with the COB Holder. I removed the other protective coating of the SureSeal Thermal Pad and placed over screws and locked in place, then tightened down the screws. Next the Reflector Holders were screwed down on top of the COB Holder into the heat sink. Actually in the picture below I removed the reflector holders and started wiring up.

02E41807-AD66-4359-9432-FEF792C69240.jpeg


Step 4 - Wiring the COB'S together

COB'S are wired together in series. This means that you take a wire and connect from the (+) port (you just stick a wire in a hole and it holds) to the (-) on the next COB. So the wires go (+) (-) (+) (-) until the end of the string

053CA83A-52F1-4DF2-BB92-A6CC02786247.jpeg


02E41807-AD66-4359-9432-FEF792C69240.jpeg


I will finalize the construction of wiring up the Driver in a separate post.
 
I couldn't resist and spent a couple hours assembly my COB Array. I probably spent another 2 hours on line making sure I had everything wired up correctly. I sure didn't want to fry my COBS when I ran the "Smoke Test".

I am fairly comfortable working with Electricity but by no means an electrician.

Step 1 - Assembly of Heat Sinks

The heat sinks are already drilled and tapped for ease of installation. Initially I unwrapped the heat sinks and the heat sink brackets. Easy as aligning the Bracket and screwing in 2 screws to each bracket.

1D472DA3-2433-4144-A073-04561EFB9D20.jpeg


D8ADEA13-90FC-4905-B06D-21AB93BA402C.jpeg


44D7067D-6AE3-4CDC-BF2C-FF0B02EB4FB9.jpeg


Step 2 - Insert the heat sinks into the rails of the frame

Next I slid each of the heat sinks into the grove of the canopy rails and installed the end caps

E2422C75-F2F7-4752-8C9B-52D9B0A784F2.jpeg


F7B4FC9D-769B-4E85-980B-7BFEECFAB662.jpeg


Step 3 - Assembly of the COB's onto the heat sinks

Next I opened up the 5 COB's and into the Ideal Cob Holder. This is really easy. First you align the (+) on the COB to the (+) on the holder . There is a little spring that when pushed in allows the COBS to just click into place.

72E69E3C-8B8F-4B08-A677-AACAE2602AB4.jpeg


053CA83A-52F1-4DF2-BB92-A6CC02786247.jpeg


On the back of each COB you install a SurSeal Thermal Pad on each COB. The pads are double adhesive coated. At this point I only removed one protective side and attached to each COB.

4E9BCE8E-3A09-4915-94FB-32113292271B.jpeg


Next I installed two screws on each heat sink to align with the COB Holder. I removed the other protective coating of the SureSeal Thermal Pad and placed over screws and locked in place, then tightened down the screws. Next the Reflector Holders were screwed down on top of the COB Holder into the heat sink. Actually in the picture below I removed the reflector holders and started wiring up.

02E41807-AD66-4359-9432-FEF792C69240.jpeg


Step 4 - Wiring the COB'S together

COB'S are wired together in series. This means that you take a wire and connect from the (+) port (you just stick a wire in a hole and it holds) to the (-) on the next COB. So the wires go (+) (-) (+) (-) until the end of the string

053CA83A-52F1-4DF2-BB92-A6CC02786247.jpeg


02E41807-AD66-4359-9432-FEF792C69240.jpeg


I will finalize the construction of wiring up the Driver in a separate post.
That pretty cool. I have learned alot today about the diy kits, I've been researching non-stop lol...️
 
Wiring up the Driver to COB assembly

This portion was the most intimidating to me but after reading numerous tutorials I finally felt confident enough to proceed.

Step 1 - Input Wiring

This seemed easy enough but the colors were different than what I expected and some of the label is in Chinese that also caused confusion. Basically all we are doing in this step is connecting a standard power cord. The driver is built as a universal driver and will handle either 110 or 220 V.

First we take a look at the label

56CF6BAA-0629-4F7E-9A7C-20DF4E8EF9C7.jpeg


Next we wire it up using Wago Connectors

Green (power Cord) to Green Yellow (Driver)
Black (power cord) to Brown (Driver)
White (power cord) to Blue (Driver)

That was easy enough wasn't it.

Step 2 - Wire Potentiometer - this one was pretty straight forward. The potentiometer is like a dimmer switch.

E8947348-FB4E-441A-A37F-18D5B747A7E7.jpeg



Black Wire (potent) to Blue (driver)
Red (potentiometer) to Gray (driver)
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F18D2DD9-237D-4F67-8ABA-77DF095CD441.jpeg


Step 3 - Wire COBS to Driver (scary)

You run one wire (red) from the Positive on the first COB in the string and a Black wire from the (-) negative terminal of the last COB on the string to the driver.

Red (COB) to Brown (driver)
White (COB) to Blue (driver)

E8947348-FB4E-441A-A37F-18D5B747A7E7.jpeg


2A39DD55-936C-4E5D-869F-350796C4DC12.jpeg


That is it - if followed when you plug in the fixture all the COBS will light up and will be dimmable using the potentiometer.


I plan on mounting my driver outside the tent. It is way to big for my Canopy Frame - I will post details of this later.

This is what she looks like with the reflectors in place.

BBF1CDBC-42C1-4962-8541-B45ED48F4F58.jpeg
 
Wiring up the Driver to COB assembly

This portion was the most intimidating to me but after reading numerous tutorials I finally felt confident enough to proceed.

Step 1 - Input Wiring

This seemed easy enough but the colors were different than what I expected and some of the label is in Chinese that also caused confusion. Basically all we are doing in this step is connecting a standard power cord. The driver is built as a universal driver and will handle either 110 or 220 V.

First we take a look at the label

56CF6BAA-0629-4F7E-9A7C-20DF4E8EF9C7.jpeg


Next we wire it up using Wago Connectors

Green (power Cord) to Green Yellow (Driver)
Black (power cord) to Brown (Driver)
White (power cord) to Blue (Driver)

That was easy enough wasn't it.

Step 2 - Wire Potentiometer - this one was pretty straight forward. The potentiometer is like a dimmer switch.

E8947348-FB4E-441A-A37F-18D5B747A7E7.jpeg



Black Wire (potent) to Blue (driver)
Red (potentiometer) to Gray (driver)
1CF8831E-FD38-4225-8564-A366142F44E7.jpeg


F18D2DD9-237D-4F67-8ABA-77DF095CD441.jpeg


Step 3 - Wire COBS to Driver (scary)

You run one wire (red) from the Positive on the first COB in the string and a Black wire from the (-) negative terminal of the last COB on the string to the driver.

Red (COB) to Brown (driver)
White (COB) to Blue (driver)

E8947348-FB4E-441A-A37F-18D5B747A7E7.jpeg


2A39DD55-936C-4E5D-869F-350796C4DC12.jpeg


That is it - if followed when you plug in the fixture all the COBS will light up and will be dimmable using the potentiometer.


I plan on mounting my driver outside the tent. It is way to big for my Canopy Frame - I will post details of this later.
Congrats buddy. I've never ran street lights but I know that more light makes bigger buds just from what I bought.
Good luck!! You will do awesome
 
Hi Troy, your ladies are lush, no doubt about it.

Carol, meh, when you're on a schedule, mutants become time-suckers. But in their defence they produce some of the most beautiful plants seen.

Dee, is leading the parade, her growth over night is spooky, and exciting, she has responded well to your LST.

Mrs. G, will she get LST too?

The overnight growth spurts are so promising that I wish I had more autos seeds but next time I'll get more indica.

Your garden is inspiring to me. After I asked you about lights I added some to my girls and poof overnight they grew half an inch.

We are growing at the same time so I'm kinda using your journal as a look into the future and how autos grow so healthy, once I know what I'm doing.

Exceptional work...:Love:

Congrats on getting your COB's, you can't go wrong.

aaaaand, REPS for recipe. :)

Mrs. G - I topped her between 2nd and 3rd nodes and will see how she does. I will be doing some LST on her but hope to be able to top a second time (not sure if this will be possible). Project in progress... LOL
 
Congrats buddy. I've never ran street lights but I know that more light makes bigger buds just from what I bought.
Good luck!! You will do awesome

Thanks man. It has been fun and look forward to getting the project finished and installed in my 4x4 tent. I think it will really light things up especially for bloom cycle.

I wanted to finish the tutorial before the site goes down tomorrow.
 
Re: Troy's 2nd - Autos - DP Ultimate & Euphoria, Meph Alien v Tangle, RQS Diesel

I think my favorite is Dee. I guess because I have been doing so much work with her.

Olga is a really strong Ultimate and I think she is shaping up to be a good producer. The was topped between the 3 and 4th node. It is incredible how much she is growing.

Yeah - Olga and Dee are looking great dude. If I look back in my Ultimate journal I see that Olga is in for a growth spurt for a few weeks and will get as bushy as a 60's porn star. I'm so impressed with Dee though - definitely considering Daiquiri Lime for next grow now.
 
Re: Troy's 2nd - Autos - DP Ultimate & Euphoria, Meph Alien v Tangle, RQS Diesel

Yeah - Olga and Dee are looking great dude. If I look back in my Ultimate journal I see that Olga is in for a growth spurt for a few weeks and will get as bushy as a 60's porn star. I'm so impressed with Dee though - definitely considering Daiquiri Lime for next grow now.

How much growth did you get after initiation of flower. So far I haven't spotted any pre-flower. I'm expecting Dee to start flowering any day now. Per breeder She is suppose to be a 10-11 weeks from sprouting.
 
Awwww shucks Troy... :Namaste: I want the best and biggest yield for you. I'm sending championship vibes through the laptop. :thanks:

Thanks I need all the positive vibes I can get.
 
Feb 17, 2018 - Update

Ultimate Sisters

Olga - Day 23

Olga really started doing a burst of growth. I've strapped her down with some LST to open her up.


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Briar Rose - Day 21 Briar is really growing slowly but got a topping this morning after the picture

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MRs G - Day 13 - She is a 7 days younger than Briar Rose and already is almost as big as she is.

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Yep they'll be off to the races in no time! Looking good Troy
 
Re: Troy's 2nd - Autos - DP Ultimate & Euphoria, Meph Alien v Tangle, RQS Diesel

I installed the 2x4 COB in the tent this morning. I decided to put the driver outside the tent. I fired her up at about 30% until the plants get use to her. I need to get one of those inline meters that show the amps and watts. Never ending drain on the 'ol wallet.

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Yep they'll be off to the races in no time! Looking good Troy

Thanks MadDabber - encouragement and criticism are always welcome. I'm expecting some pre-flowers on Dee any day now.
 
Cruising along nicely now ...


They may be on cruise control for now but I'm sure keeping an eye on them. I saw a little burn on one of Dee's shoots last evening. The only thing that was new was I had added Silica Blast ... I did a deep flush and they are looking good. I'm wondering if I gave it to them too early. That was the only plant that seemed to mind.

I'm running my nutes at about 800 ppm and using PH Perfect CoCo so do keep an eye on the PH. I've also been adding Cal-Mag with each water.
 
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