Timer won't start 400W HPS

It's very very easy bro , you have the fase# going in and wire to the balast going out (the switch in between \ )and you have the power from the timer that "actuates" the contactor .

they come with instructions and schematics, actually it's harder to buy the right one than the installation .

you can buy NC , or NO or both , (NC is naturally closed , and NO-open , this is the state of the relay when no power goes to it from a timer)

If you buy a box from the hidro store you will have to wire it just about the same or verify the sparky was not stoned when he assembled it :)

I had my plants on a ~2 week 24/0 because of this good thing it was in veg .

the shortlist would be ... NO mech contactor , rated for 16-20Amps (or at least 2x bigger than the actual current draw) Inductive load , Inductive is very important .
 
ondercuver said:
It's very very easy bro , you have the fase# going in and wire to the balast going out (the switch in between \ )and you have the power from the timer that "actuates" the contactor .

they come with instructions and schematics, actually it's harder to buy the right one than the installation .

you can buy NC , or NO or both , (NC is naturally closed , and NO-open , this is the state of the relay when no power goes to it from a timer)

If you buy a box from the hidro store you will have to wire it just about the same or verify the sparky was not stoned when he assembled it :)

I had my plants on a ~2 week 24/0 because of this good thing it was in veg .

the shortlist would be ... NO mech contactor , rated for 16-20Amps (or at least 2x bigger than the actual current draw) Inductive load , Inductive is very important .
Click to expand...

well before I do that i'll check if the ballast is the problem this evening. If its the case i'll just buy a new one.
 
What's confusing me is I've used the exact same digital timer (except mine was $20) for a 1000w hps and never had a single issue. If you are able to turn the timer to on position and the light comes on without over loading the timer then it shouldn't over load timer using the timer setting. I'm by far no electrical expert but on startup a 400w ballast maybe pulls 6 amps or so. So if this timer is rated for 15 amp then overloading shouldn't happen
 
Marzbadrock said:
What's confusing me is I've used the exact same digital timer (except mine was $20) for a 1000w hps and never had a single issue. If you are able to turn the timer to on position and the light comes on without over loading the timer then it shouldn't over load timer using the timer setting. I'm by far no electrical expert but on startup a 400w ballast maybe pulls 6 amps or so. So if this timer is rated for 15 amp then overloading shouldn't happen
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Exactly, so I'm assuming it might be the Ballast thats fucked.
 
Marzbadrock said:
What's confusing me is I've used the exact same digital timer (except mine was $20) for a 1000w hps and never had a single issue. If you are able to turn the timer to on position and the light comes on without over loading the timer then it shouldn't over load timer using the timer setting. I'm by far no electrical expert but on startup a 400w ballast maybe pulls 6 amps or so. So if this timer is rated for 15 amp then overloading shouldn't happen
Click to expand...

It sounds like a quirk of (or a defect in?) his particular ballast. This does appear to be a common problem, though...

I suspect that that six amps of current is steady state, once the arc is struck and the lamp has been burning for a while. It's possible (guessing wildly here) that at start-up there is a spike of current demand. That's wouldn't be very good engineering, but you do see it happen with some devices. "In-rush current."

Maybe the retailer would be willing to let him try another unit?
 
Scientific said:
It sounds like a quirk of (or a defect in?) his particular ballast. This does appear to be a common problem, though...

I suspect that that six amps of current is steady state, once the arc is struck and the lamp has been burning for a while. It's possible (guessing wildly here) that at start-up there is a spike of current demand. That's wouldn't be very good engineering, but you do see it happen with some devices. "In-rush current."

Maybe the retailer would be willing to let him try another unit?
Click to expand...

this is exactly what were going to do tonight, im good friends with the hydro store, so i'm going to bring my ballast and timer and we'll try a new ballast then my ballast and see if the problem is the ballast. Hopefully it is. (which would make sense) otherwise i'm gonna have issues. fuck
 
Marzbadrock said:
What's confusing me is I've used the exact same digital timer (except mine was $20) for a 1000w hps and never had a single issue. If you are able to turn the timer to on position and the light comes on without over loading the timer then it shouldn't over load timer using the timer setting. I'm by far no electrical expert but on startup a 400w ballast maybe pulls 6 amps or so. So if this timer is rated for 15 amp then overloading shouldn't happen
Click to expand...

google inductive load , maybe it's gonna clear up, your 1000w was magnetic ballast or electronic?

I guess hydro shops must make a living too ...
 
I was quoting Marz .
Your 400w may draw more than 1kw when it starts , there are small electric contacts in the timers .. it's about area of contact , the metal used and the distance of the switch ... you need some basic sparky knowledge to understand how it works and why a timer will not work with hid for a long enough time.

Anyway I think you should disregard my post above and just do whatever the hydroshop tells you(and gives warranty) , it's better than an electrical fire or reveg-ing the girls or whatever.
 
ondercuver said:
google inductive load , maybe it's gonna clear up, your 1000w was magnetic ballast or electronic?

I guess hydro shops must make a living too ...
Click to expand...

My ballast is a phantom2 digital ballast. The point I was getting at was if the ballast works by plugging it in directly to outlet and it works but does not work on the timer it has to be either a timer issue or a setup of timer issue.
 
ondercuver said:
I was quoting Marz .
Your 400w may draw more than 1kw when it starts , there are small electric contacts in the timers .. it's about area of contact , the metal used and the distance of the switch ... you need some basic sparky knowledge to understand how it works and why a timer will not work with hid for a long enough time.

Anyway I think you should disregard my post above and just do whatever the hydroshop tells you(and gives warranty) , it's better than an electrical fire or reveg-ing the girls or whatever.
Click to expand...

Yes, listen to someone that is knowledgeable with eletricity. My local hydro shop knows their shit n set me up n never had a issue.
 
Marzbadrock said:
if the ballast works by plugging it in directly to outlet and it works but does not work on the timer it has to be either a timer issue or a setup of timer issue.
Click to expand...

If you read back through the thread, you'll see that we discussed that earlier, and that is appears the some light-duty, household-grade relays in timers simply can't provide the current that some ballasts require at startup (probably too small a contact area, I'm guessing).
 
Marzbadrock said:
Yes, listen to someone that is knowledgeable with eletricity. My local hydro shop knows their shit n set me up n never had a issue.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry to have to say it, and no disrespect intended towards the people who work at your local hydro shop who sound like they know their stuff, but I am constantly seeing threads here from people who are struggling because of some BS info "the guy at the hydro shop" gave them. ;)
 
Scientific said:
If you read back through the thread, you'll see that we discussed that earlier, and that is appears the some light-duty, household-grade relays in timers simply can't deliver enough current to provide the current that some ballasts require at startup.
Click to expand...

Yeah I understand that n we got on the convo of if the ballast is faulty. I was trying to say if it works while direct plug to power source then it can't be a ballast issue.
 
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