TheRoach's First - Soil - Aurora Indica - Organic Grow - 600W

Alright- caught up from the start. I love the misty cloner and your ideas on prepping the cuttings first, and things in general. Good journal :thumb: reps
I tend to think you probably do want a bigger fan than 80cfm or whatever it was you mentioned. Good to have the options open in case you attach a filter or more ducting for something or other, or sew yourself a bigger tent. Also the faster it exchanges air the less wear and tear on the fan and less noise. But I'm sure you've thought of that stuff already.

That is something I had considered indeed, but I will have to buy the bigger fan online; what I really hadn't considered is that the bigger fan would be less noisy or would wear less. Thank you very much for the info!
And also thank you for the encouraging words and the reps+, it means a lot for me!
 
Last night I took 15 clones: 12 from AI pheno #3, 2 from AI pheno #5, and 1 from a sativa dominant mystery seed.
I just cut right above the small growing tip/ new branch, scraped, applied rooting powder and then moved into the propagator under a small zipploc bag.

So here you can see the 15 clones after being cut:

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This is how they look with the bags on:

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And a few shots of the mothers after the prune

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Notice there is some yellowing in the lower leaves of the mother plants; The shop light fluorescent does not have much penetration and I think that may have caused the yellowing, but I´m not ruling out nitrogen deficiency yet. I watered the plants with plain water after taking the clones.

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The mothers and the clones can now share the shop light

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and this is how the clones look after 14 hours in the propagator, with the domes on;

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Thank you very much for watching and your continued support.
Any comments/feedback/criticism will be appreciated and respectfully addressed (unless you mess with the cat)

And as always, thanks to :420: members and staff for making this possible.
 
That is something I had considered indeed, but I will have to buy the bigger fan online; what I really hadn't considered is that the bigger fan would be less noisy or would wear less. Thank you very much for the info!
And also thank you for the encouraging words and the reps+, it means a lot for me!

Hey,take it with a grain of salt though. I'm not 100% sure of what I'm talking about, lol. Fans big or small come in all noise levels. Those 80cfm bathroom fan things are often pretty noisy, and wimpy though. You might find a 300-400 Cfm fan that is touted as being super quiet
 
Roachy Roachy Roachy...
Can you put up a pic or two of your continuous flow worm casting factory? I think I'm going to make one so I can get some better tea brewing. Before this I've just been digging in the compost pile to find likely looking piles of worm castings.
 
Sorry it took so long to get back to you Roach, I was actually talking about adding another fan to keep the temps down.
Gotta say that your cloning techniques are very good! I don't get that sterile with my cloning, but I will try your way for sure! That's what I love about this site, no matter how much you think you know, there is always more to learn and someone willing to teach their ways! Great Tutorial bud! + rep for you
 
Roachy Roachy Roachy...
Can you put up a pic or two of your continuous flow worm casting factory? I think I'm going to make one so I can get some better tea brewing. Before this I've just been digging in the compost pile to find likely looking piles of worm castings.

Sure I'll post pictures tomorrow!
 
Sorry it took so long to get back to you Roach, I was actually talking about adding another fan to keep the temps down.
Gotta say that your cloning techniques are very good! I don't get that sterile with my cloning, but I will try your way for sure! That's what I love about this site, no matter how much you think you know, there is always more to learn and someone willing to teach their ways! Great Tutorial bud! + rep for you
Thank you very much for stopping by! I try to keep it clean to avoid infection. I also have a vegetable garden so I try hard to avoid bringing disease from outside.
I'm typing this on my PS4 and its so slow haha... Let me go to the pc.
 
Roachy Roachy Roachy...
Can you put up a pic or two of your continuous flow worm casting factory? I think I'm going to make one so I can get some better tea brewing. Before this I've just been digging in the compost pile to find likely looking piles of worm castings.

Sorry for the half assed answer above. Typing on the PS4 browser is painfully slow.
I have had different kinds of worm bins and this is by far the most efficient one; it boosts production and quality, and saves time because no sifting is necessary.
think of a box with a hinged top and no bottom, instead it has a grill that keeps the castings from falling (when wet, castings forms large clumps) to harvest you take a rake or similar tool and scrape the bottom of the unit as to make the castings fall, and then pick them up and put them in the shadow for a week so they dry and mature.

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I hope that picture helps. It took me a couple days of searching the web to get it.
Tomorrow I will put a few pics of mine, I made it with some scrap timber I had laying around.
 
Thank you very much ganjazz!
Tomorrow I will post a few pictures of the flowering room, it is really crowded with eleven plants, mostly sativa dominant mystery plants,

:icon_cool

like to see those ladies ;)
 
Sup Roach:),

Everything is looking sweeeet..I'm really diggin that compost box diagram you posted.

Here's some info on the types of fans that are out there bro..it helped settle on the fan I felt fit my needs..I personally went with a mixed flow...what makes them different from each other is the configuration of the blades..

Axial Flow Fans: this type has various blade shapes including Aerofoil, Sickle, Paddle, and Variable pitch. Axial fans are used for relatively high flow rates and low pressures with flow parallel to the axis of fan. They also have low power input.They are generally selected for simple extraction or cooling applications with very low system resistance, such as moving air from one large space to another (i.e. from factory to outside), desk fans and condenser cooling in refrigeration.

Centrifugal Fans:typical impeller blade construction types includes Paddle, Radial, Backward curved and Forward curved. Characteristics are low flow rates and high pressures with flow perpendicular to blower axis. Air enters around centre of the fan and exits around the outside.Centrifugal fans with Paddle impellers are used when debris will pass through the system because this configuration prevents any clogging. Fans with backward curved blades produce less air volume than Axial units, but generate considerably more pressure and are the least hungry for power in the centrifugal range. They can also be produced as Multistage units to give even higher pressures.By comparison, the Centrifugal fans with Forward curved blades develop the best airflow and pressure requirement in size by size comparison, although they will require extra motor power.Typical applications for Centrifugal fans include air handling units, process heating and cooling, electronic cooling and boiler combustion air.

Mixed Flow Fans: These combine the features of Axial and Centrifugal Fans by employing the air movement techniques of both. Air enters the inlet side of the fans and exhausts in an axial route from the outlet side. The pressure development of the mixed flow fan is greater that an Axial fan and is more akin to the Centrifugal fan.

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Also, I wanted to throw an idea out there bro, based on the question you had on controlling the RH in your grow room. This is actually the way I have my setup..I'm assuming you have your grow tent/room inside another room witch is where I have mine. What Im doing is venting the air from inside my grow room to the room I have my tent in and just control the humidity of the room I have my tent in..I don't bring any outside air in, that way I'm not introducing more humidity into my space...I'm not sure if this makes sense but it's working for me:thumb:...I hope you find this helpful bro...i just wanted to try and throw some ideas your way, seeing as how you've helped me out so much just by giving me all The awesome ideas and techniques you have. You got skills bro ...I don't care what anyone says hahajk. ...much respect bro. *fist bump*

#yourawesome
 
Wow lovitonce, that is an awesome post! Thank you for your kind words of encouragement and suggestion on the RH issue!
That's a wealth of information on the fans, very good read.
I will try what you are telling me about venting in the room, I figure air will still be renewed because there is a open window and I also open the door a lot when checking the girls. My only concern would be heat, but still will try and see how it goes!
Today I will post a couple pics of the flowering room that is crowded with mystery plants (Have a sativa I want to keep)
Your support is appreciated and your ideas will be treasured with all the knowledge I have received here.
Rep+ for you continued support!
 
Here are a couple pics of my continuous flow reactor worm bin. Such a big name for a wooden box.
The technology and science behind it are sound; it basically takes advantage of compost worms being epigeic , that is, they like being in the superficial layers of soil, where rotting matter is more common.
So you put food on it, the worms eat it, then you add a layer of wet shredded cardboard and then another layer of food. Worms will go up where food is, living in the new layer of food/cardboard until this layer is exhausted too.
Then you add a layer on top and they migrate upwards; when there is no space for more food on top, you scrape the bottom and harvest the rich compost layer, gravity forces the whole contents downward toward the grid of ropes and leaves some space on top for new food.
This unit, roughly 150 cm by 40 cm (if im not wrong) can produce around 5 gallons of finished compost, with the added benefit of having finished compost free of worms (normally a limitation in other bins, as worms have to be removed by hand or sifting for the compost to be usable)
I feed with fruits and vegetables only, along with cardboard for Carbon; I get the food scraps from a local fruit store owned by a friend.
The cardboard comes from local businesses that happily donate the waste once I tell them how it will be disposed of!
In the last two years, these worms may have processed over two metric tons of waste; they have a voracious appetite.

This unit may not be a beauty to behold, but it produces top-notch compost and requires no maintenance.

Notice all the food scraps on top, those will last no longer than 24 hrs; the bin needs to be loaded again soon.

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Worms love hanging in that corner. See all the black stuff in the inner walls? Scrape that and you get 100% pure castings, ideal for topping pots; unfortunately there are very little wall-poopers, most of them leave their castings where they should.
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Here you can see the synthetic rope used for the ¨floor¨ of the reactor.
Any other organic material wouldn't last long, as the leachate of the bin degrades stuff very quickly.

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I stapled some sturdy plastic to the planks, as I knew they wouldn't last long enough by themselves against the fungal and bacterial micro-life of the compost. The impermeable lining keep the planks from rotting and also help the compost ¨flow¨ downwards

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Look at how this plank looks. I didn't line it with plastic and now it has been colonized by fungi. I take it and put it under the sun to keep it from rotting: fungi and bacteria are very sensitive to the searing UV rays of the sun!

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and this is the ugliest part of the bin. bottom view of the compost. All stuff that is not promptly consumed by the worms will end up here, as impurities in the finished compost. I have mostly pieces of stem from my cherry tomato, cucumber and pumpkin plants: I have found that only high lignin stems will endure the journey.
I pick up the larger pieces and just put them on the top of the bin. Not even the thick stems of a cannabis plant will endure the trip twice.

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I hope this comes handy for any of you guys! (specially you WeaselCracker, Cracker of weasels wherever they raise their furry heads)

Thank you for watching :420:
 
Awesome! Thanks Roach. I have two questions

First - you said: "This unit, roughly 150 cm by 40 cm (if im not wrong) can produce around 5 gallons of finished compost..."

In what space of time does it produce the 5 gallons?

Second- what size is the mesh formed by the rope, and is it just the stems and cardboard and other solid objects which keep everything from falling right through?

I have compost worms- in winter I think they slither deep into the middle of the pile and sleep and relax till spring. With this system I think I will add some insulation like haybales around it to keep them warm n
 
Awesome! Thanks Roach. I have two questions

First - you said: "This unit, roughly 150 cm by 40 cm (if im not wrong) can produce around 5 gallons of finished compost..."

In what space of time does it produce the 5 gallons?

Second- what size is the mesh formed by the rope, and is it just the stems and cardboard and other solid objects which keep everything from falling right through?

I have compost worms- in winter I think they slither deep into the middle of the pile and sleep and relax till spring. With this system I think I will add some insulation like haybales around it to keep them warm n

Sorry, I omitted the last part of that statement, it should read: "This unit, roughly 150 cm by 40 cm (if im not wrong) can produce around 5 gallons of finished compost... every month¨

The ropes are 5 cm apart if I´m not mistaken.
When you first start the bin, you have to put a layer of cardboard over the ropes. Cardboard can be shredded by hand if you let it soak in a bucket of water for 48-72 hrs. this makes the cardboard soft, so you can just rip long strips of it. The narrower you can, the better. If it doesn't rip in strips, try turning the cardboard piece.
Put an inch layer of cardboard over the ropes, and then another inch of the organic matter of your choice, and another of cardboard.
Then continue adding vegetable scraps until you complete the next layer, and cover with cardboard. Continue to do so until the bin is full.
It is not necessary to water the bin because the food and the cardboard add the moisture necessary for worms to survive.
Once the bin is full just scratch the bottom part with a rake or similar tool.
After you first harvest, the compost will actually stay where it is. It will then descend slowly until it meets the ropes; wet vermicasts are sticky and aggregate into large clumps that wont fall through. In fact, the whole bin acts as a single lump piece descending as a whole.
Sorry if I make the explanation too long, but I consider anything worth explaining should be explained as fully as possible.
Regarding the insulation, the design in the picture above actually calls for insulation! I don't use it because it never gets so cold here and the bin is in the shadow so it doesn't get too hot either. I´ve also found that the bin itself will also be a bit warm. I guess because of the bacterial activity; I once read of a person in a colder environment adding unfinished compost (still warm) as feed stock to help with the temperatures.
I hope it helps!

:420:
 
Cool. Thanks again. Yes the composting action definitely creates heat. I used to live next to a huge 'organic' farm operation and they had great big piles of compost and manure they let sit all winter- in the springtime when they brought their machines in to dig it up, the machines were usually completely hidden behind billowing clouds of steam. By big piles I mean they had two excavators which made roads to the tops of their piles working loading the stuff into dump trucks, and the excavators were looking mighty small up there when I could glimpse them through the clouds. Good old 'organic farming'...
 
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