- Thread starter
- #921
The rooster
Well-Known Member
I got the 288 because the 304 was out of stock they assured me quality is the same on both
The Rooster's Multi Strain Multi Light - Indoor Outdoor Grow - Mars LED
- Thread starter The rooster
- Start date
I got the 288 because the 304 was out of stock they assured me quality is the same on both
Arctic Bowl
Well-Known Member
Your goin to love that MF Rooster I promise you that!
The 288 works out the same yes
Rider509
Well-Known Member
It's not the Platinum, it's the timer! It's leaking current. I'm going to bet that it's an electronic switch and not mechanical. Get a decent switch with mechanical make/break contacts and no more problems.
https://images.homedepot-static.com...ema-1-enclosure-tork-timers-1103b-64_1000.jpg
https://images.homedepot-static.com...ema-1-enclosure-tork-timers-1103b-64_1000.jpg
- Thread starter
- #925
The rooster
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #926
The rooster
Well-Known Member
Alright so here's a serious question. When the quantum's come in will I be better off running the quantum on one side and the p4 on the other side or running the quantum and both mars 300's split apart for a better coverage?
- Thread starter
- #927
The rooster
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking the mars and the platinum can go in veg
Arctic Bowl
Well-Known Member
I’d go with what ever combo gives you the most coverage brother, if that P4 is acting an ass toss it in veg tent. If it turns out it is the timer ( I believe that will be the case ) then I’d let it go in the flower tent if it’s behaving and gives you better coverage than the 2 Mars. Or use this 550 in your tent and put the 288 in veg
Rider509
Well-Known Member
That's a cute little timer. And it's even mechanical. But it's likely underrated for your load even if the Chinese spec'd it accurately. (no offense to Chinese people intended, only to those lying bastards at the Chinese companies that pull specs of of their aaaaa... hats) Timer specs usually indicate their load capacity with a resistive load and then somewhere in the fine print they mention derating for use with ballasts. The problem with trying to run near the rated resistive load capacity when you're actually running ballasts is that the inrush current can arc across the contacts and burn them or fuse them. To be safe, derate your timers by half when used with ballasts, either HID or LED.
Here's a good example. The Tork 1103B is advertised as a 120-277VAC DPST 40A timer switch. But as this is a more commercial unit the deratings are listed right inside the door so you have no one to blame but yourself if you burn it up. You can buy a number of smaller timers to keep loads within the derated specs, or buy a meatier, beefier, prime hunk of timer switch like the Tork. One beneficial aspect of numerous small timers is that they can be staggered for turn on so that you don't pop breakers when all of the lights come on at the same time on your poor overworked 15A breaker.
Important note: Burnt contacts are resistive. Resistance causes heat. Heat causes fires and plastic burns really well and drips melting globs of burning goo. If you suspect that your timer is toast, toss it.
Here's a good example. The Tork 1103B is advertised as a 120-277VAC DPST 40A timer switch. But as this is a more commercial unit the deratings are listed right inside the door so you have no one to blame but yourself if you burn it up. You can buy a number of smaller timers to keep loads within the derated specs, or buy a meatier, beefier, prime hunk of timer switch like the Tork. One beneficial aspect of numerous small timers is that they can be staggered for turn on so that you don't pop breakers when all of the lights come on at the same time on your poor overworked 15A breaker.
Important note: Burnt contacts are resistive. Resistance causes heat. Heat causes fires and plastic burns really well and drips melting globs of burning goo. If you suspect that your timer is toast, toss it.
- Thread starter
- #930
The rooster
Well-Known Member
That's a cute little timer. And it's even mechanical. But it's likely underrated for your load even if the Chinese spec'd it accurately. (no offense to Chinese people intended, only to those lying bastards at the Chinese companies that pull specs of of their aaaaa... hats) Timer specs usually indicate their load capacity with a resistive load and then somewhere in the fine print they mention derating for use with ballasts. The problem with trying to run near the rated resistive load capacity when you're actually running ballasts is that the inrush current can arc across the contacts and burn them or fuse them. To be safe, derate your timers by half when used with ballasts, either HID or LED.
Here's a good example. The Tork 1103B is advertised as a 120-277VAC DPST 40A timer switch. But as this is a more commercial unit the deratings are listed right inside the door so you have no one to blame but yourself if you burn it up. You can buy a number of smaller timers to keep loads within the derated specs, or buy a meatier, beefier, prime hunk of timer switch like the Tork. One beneficial aspect of numerous small timers is that they can be staggered for turn on so that you don't pop breakers when all of the lights come on at the same time on your poor overworked 15A breaker.
Important note: Burnt contacts are resistive. Resistance causes heat. Heat causes fires and plastic burns really well and drips melting globs of burning goo. If you suspect that your timer is toast, toss it.
Will be upgrading rider. Thanks.
On a side not I'm bummed out :-( the two blueberry gums only hit a total of 196.5 grams. Soooo I vegged them longer and hit less weight? I'm going to go ahead and blame it on short changing the lime and then the added issue of spraying for mites all the time and the heavy defoliation. But still bummed out that I hit less weight with bigger plants.
Mob is still drying so that's a good sign.
Also the blueberry gum dried up supppppper dry. Prolly should have jarred it yesterday.
Room humidity.... 13%. That doesn't help either!
Not aphids to my eye...mites (though not the cannabis type). Aphids die with soap.
- Thread starter
- #932
The rooster
Well-Known Member
Yup so in a couple months I'll be pulling the p4 apart and stealing the 400w driver to drive 6 cobs I believe I can under drive them correct? Any suggestions on chips? Cxb3590 or veros?
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Dang! That's hella dry air. Extreme cold and deserts are like that. You don't run a whole home humidifier? My skin is itching just thinking about that dry air.
Depends on the driver specs. What voltage range does it output? But yeah, you can always under drive the cobs as long as the driver outputs enough voltage to fire them.
- Thread starter
- #934
The rooster
Well-Known Member
I'll check out the specs tomorrow. Temps usually are like 78 in the room and rh is usually upset 30s low 40s. It's been like 20 below for 2 weeks. Going to let up next week thank god
Nice to know they can still deliver to Hades!
pino0911
Well-Known Member
Woke up to 12 inches of snow. And my rh on my seedlings have been painfully low!!
$15 but adds some heat. Cycle it on and off to raise RH without raising the temps too high. Watch the power draw though.
- Thread starter
- #938
The rooster
Well-Known Member
$15 but adds some heat. Cycle it on and off to raise RH without raising the temps too high. Watch the power draw though.
Yeah I have a small one. I can't run it. Too much draw to heat the coils up.
I used to run it when I only had a 400w hps but as the grow evolved that had to be put aside for electrical concerns
That's what I figured (and why I added the caution about power). Thought it might help someone else with bigger circuits though
.- Thread starter
- #940
The rooster
Well-Known Member
Let's hope this helps the humidity on the clones.
