The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

[Archiweedies]

Hi Sav, good question. I start in small solo cups or smaller. The small cup really cant be over watered because of it's small size so I give it a good watering and wait until I see the very first sign of wilting, then I water again. (this is after seedling stage is over) That's the cycle. As the plant grows it shortens the cycle of watering. So I might go from 4 days to 3 then to 2 and 1 day between waterings. The plant tells me by wilting slightly when to water. When it has me going to water every day it's time to put it in a bigger pot and start over finding the watering point. Huge roots grow when I do this. This is for veg. Flower cycle is different. I know the pattern of watering by this time and stick to it unless a plant gives me a sign.

Well said SO!
One of the best things @Duggan taught me and insisted on was a calendar. I don’t know how I lived without it before.
Write down what you do and when, no matter how insignificant you might think it is.
The number of times I’ve referenced my calendar has more than paid for the small inconvenience of pausing to jot something down

 

[Emilya Green]

What would be an ideal time frame for a good wet/dry cycle.

it depends entirely on the size of your container, the strength of your roots and the medium you are working in. Then it depends on if you are in veg or flower... because in flower you no longer want to let the container go completely dry.

In veg, there is no set answer to this, because the wet/dry cycle is a variable that changes with each watering. In Flower, I would try to get to an every other day watering cycle if possible, but 80% of the water still needs to be used between each watering.

 

[StoneOtter]

Well said SO!
One of the best things @Duggan taught me and insisted on was a calendar. I don’t know how I lived without it before.
Write down what you do and when, no matter how insignificant you might think it is.
The number of times I’ve referenced my calendar has more than paid for the small inconvenience of pausing to jot something down

I have to do that and I try to do things at the same time of day too. I need every cue to grow these babies having a meh at best memory.

 

[SavPatvh]

it depends entirely on the size of your container, the strength of your roots and the medium you are working in. Then it depends on if you are in veg or flower... because in flower you no longer want to let the container go completely dry.

In veg, there is no set answer to this, because the wet/dry cycle is a variable that changes with each watering. In Flower, I would try to get to an every other day watering cycle if possible, but 80% of the water still needs to be used between each watering.

Thank you so much!
I’ve got 3 plants in 5 gal cloth pots with soil as my growing medium. They are in Flower right now. And my problem is that the smallest one is going on day 8 of not being dried out. I don’t have any way of telling how moist the soil is other than my second knuckle method which obviously isn’t the correct way in my opinion and I haven’t grasped the difference in weight between wet and dry. So should I wait until it’s showing signs of needing water and correct the amount of water I give? I’ll also add that all three get dry at different times and I would like to get them on a routine where I can water them all at the same time which proves difficult because I don’t wanna skimp out on anything when giving my plants water or nutrients just to get them all in sync

 

[SavPatvh]

I believe there isn't a set timeframe, you just need to wait until the plants tell you they need water. Putting them onto a timeframe that you've decided is best for them may not be what they really need.

My issue right now is my plants are in flower and I feel like 8 days since my last water for one of my plants is a long time not to have watered it but the soil is still moist and I want to give it that dry period or at least not drown my roots.

 

[Knifemaker420]

My issue right now is my plants are in flower and I feel like 8 days since my last water for one of my plants is a long time not to have watered it but the soil is still moist and I want to give it that dry period or at least not drown my roots.

I believe that the dry periods are only during veg. In flower you dont want to let it dry out as much.

 

[Emilya Green]

Thank you so much!
I’ve got 3 plants in 5 gal cloth pots. They are in Flower right now. And my problem is that the smallest one is going on day 8 of not being dried out. I don’t have any way of telling how moist the soil is other than my second knuckle method which obviously isn’t the correct way in my opinion and I haven’t grasped the difference in weight between wet and dry. So should I wait until it’s showing signs of needing water and correct the amount of water I give? I’ll also add that all three get dry at different times and I would like to get them on a routine where I can water them all at the same time which proves difficult because I don’t wanna skimp out on anything when giving my plants water or nutrients just to get them all in sync

Hi SavPatvh, and welcome to the forum!
With even a mediocre root system you should be able to get 5 gallon smart pots to at least a 3 day watering cycle, but in flower being able to go every other day would be optimum.
If you are on an 8 day cycle, you probably didn't veg long enough to justify being in this large of a container, but I also suspect that the lack of root development has a lot to do with your watering method.
First, the knuckle method in veg is totally incorrect, and probably where you got in trouble. Watering every time the top 3 inches dries out is a sure way to damage the roots in the lower half of the container, since they will never dry out. To grasp the difference in weight between wet and dry, fill up a container with new dry soil. Lift it up. This is what your container should feel like before you water in veg.
For your immediate situation, going more than 5 days without watering is not helpful, but then again you need the container to dry out all the way to the core. After 5 days when you can still feel water weight in the bottom of the container, water the top with just a small amount ... like about a quart. This will not add to the level of the water table, and will keep those top roots active. Then, continue to wait for the container to dry out, and water completely when it does. What do I mean by completely? Water slowly to runoff and then wait an hour and water again, making sure that you have added as much water or water/nutes as that container of soil can hold. Then, sit back and wait until the plants can use all of that water, or if it goes longer than 5 days, repeat the small top watering. Within a few cycles the roots should get stronger and the top and bottom will sync up. Getting all of the plants in sync is a challenge too, but it can be done, by using the top watering technique to add an extra day or two to ones that got done faster, and trying hard to get that big watering in at the same time with all the plants once they can handle it.

 

[Emilya Green]

I believe that the dry periods are only during veg. In flower you dont want to let it dry out as much.

This is true and deserves clarification. In veg, it is appropriate to go all the way down to dry... sahara desert dry... being able to feel NO water weight dry....
But in Flower the rules change... Then it is time to use the roots that you have developed in veg and it is time to change the watering game to see how much water you can get the plants to take each day by watering when the weight goes to about 80% dry instead of totally dry. I like to measure how much water the plant takes on my first complete watering in flower, and then using math try to apply that much per day or every other day. I try to determine by weight or moisture meter that I am judging this correctly and that I am going to 80% dry, or the water table falling to the last several inches, whether I am doing this daily, every other day or chilling out with a 3 day wet/dry cycle.

 

[Knifemaker420]

This is true and deserves clarification. In veg, it is appropriate to go all the way down to dry... sahara desert dry... being able to feel NO water weight dry....
But in Flower the rules change... Then it is time to use the roots that you have developed in veg and it is time to change the watering game to see how much water you can get the plants to take each day by watering when the weight goes to about 80% dry instead of totally dry. I like to measure how much water the plant takes on my first complete watering in flower, and then using math try to apply that much per day or every other day. I try to determine by weight or moisture meter that I am judging this correctly and that I am going to 80% dry, or the water table falling to the last several inches, whether I am doing this daily, every other day or chilling out with a 3 day wet/dry cycle.

Thanks for the clarification Emilya.

 

[SavPatvh]

Hi SavPatvh, and welcome to the forum!
With even a mediocre root system you should be able to get 5 gallon smart pots to at least a 3 day watering cycle, but in flower being able to go every other day would be optimum.
If you are on an 8 day cycle, you probably didn't veg long enough to justify being in this large of a container, but I also suspect that the lack of root development has a lot to do with your watering method.
First, the knuckle method in veg is totally incorrect, and probably where you got in trouble. Watering every time the top 3 inches dries out is a sure way to damage the roots in the lower half of the container, since they will never dry out. To grasp the difference in weight between wet and dry, fill up a container with new dry soil. Lift it up. This is what your container should feel like before you water in veg.
For your immediate situation, going more than 5 days without watering is not helpful, but then again you need the container to dry out all the way to the core. After 5 days when you can still feel water weight in the bottom of the container, water the top with just a small amount ... like about a quart. This will not add to the level of the water table, and will keep those top roots active. Then, continue to wait for the container to dry out, and water completely when it does. What do I mean by completely? Water slowly to runoff and then wait an hour and water again, making sure that you have added as much water or water/nutes as that container of soil can hold. Then, sit back and wait until the plants can use all of that water, or if it goes longer than 5 days, repeat the small top watering. Within a few cycles the roots should get stronger and the top and bottom will sync up. Getting all of the plants in sync is a challenge too, but it can be done, by using the top watering technique to add an extra day or two to ones that got done faster, and trying hard to get that big watering in at the same time with all the plants once they can handle it.

I appreciate it very much I’ll get right on that.
And you are correct we had two clones and a baby and I think the baby was two or three weeks behind. But we waited until it looked like it caught up with the other two and it’s definitely smaller in size and also in a big pot. This is our first grow and a lot of the things you’ve mentioned in this thread we had no clue about.
I worry that because of the size difference between the plants while also all the pots being the same size that I won’t be able to sync up the major waterings of each plant. In the picture the baby is in the front right

 

[Emilya Green]

I appreciate it very much I’ll get right on that.
And you are correct we had two clones and a baby and I think the baby was two or three weeks behind. But we waited until it looked like it caught up with the other two and it’s definitely smaller in size and also in a big pot. This is our first grow and a lot of the things you’ve mentioned in this thread we had no clue about.
I worry that because of the size difference between the plants while also all the pots being the same size that I won’t be able to sync up the major waterings of each plant. In the picture the baby is in the front right

Common mistakes, and actually one that I made in my last grow. I had two plants that were obviously behind the others, but I hurried them into flower anyway along with the rest, as you say, trying the sync up the room.
Those two plants never did sync up and in fact, one of them failed right at the end due to these weak roots and some other mistakes I made. You may never be able to sync all of these up on this grow, but just like children, every plant is a unique individual and needs to be treated as such. I suggest keeping notes on a calendar of when you water each plant, and treat each of them according to their own needs and schedule. Next grow, that decision as to when to flip to flower, will be made with a few more considerations in mind due to what you have learned this time.

 

[SavPatvh]

Common mistakes, and actually one that I made in my last grow. I had two plants that were obviously behind the others, but I hurried them into flower anyway along with the rest, as you say, trying the sync up the room.
Those two plants never did sync up and in fact, one of them failed right at the end due to these weak roots and some other mistakes I made. You may never be able to sync all of these up on this grow, but just like children, every plant is a unique individual and needs to be treated as such. I suggest keeping notes on a calendar of when you water each plant, and treat each of them according to their own needs and schedule. Next grow, that decision as to when to flip to flower, will be made with a few more considerations in mind due to what you have learned this time.

I appreciate you sharing your wisdom. And I’m sure I’ll have more questions later. For now I’ve got a little work ahead of me and some patient waiting to do as well. Thanks again

 

[Knifemaker420]

I appreciate you sharing your wisdom. And I’m sure I’ll have more questions later. For now I’ve got a little work ahead of me and some patient waiting to do as well. Thanks again

The patient waiting part seems harder than the work part lol

 

[Archiweedies]

calendar

They are amazing and I don’t know how I ever lived without one. I use different color highlighters for the different plants and I notate everything I do to them on there.
Really has paid dividends when I can’t remember which foliar I gave last or when I took those cuttings, etc.
Seems so simple, but it makes a great difference haha

 

[Monkeyluv]

I wasn't asking to compare hydro vs soil, but it looks like you have already. I was only curious about the idea that weeds need dry cycles. I'm interested in growing another medicinal weed besides cannabis where the roots will be the targeted harvest, so I'm researching any tips to maximize root growth. Was confused whether "This plant needs a clear wet/dry cycle in order to thrive." was speaking of all weeds or just cannabis in soil pots. Seemed to contradict the cycle-less hydro methods which I thought were best at root thriving.

As I understand it, the type of roots the weed will produce when grown in soil, or hydro are two different types of roots, and clearly shows how adaptable this weed plant is to adverse, and perfect conditions. Perfect is of course subjective to the observer based upon the knowledge base they have established for themselves, and the opinions they have formed from this experience/education. I agree with Emily when she states that organic grown produce "naturally has a superior taste, and quality" when directly comparing it to hydro grown produce.

I used hydro for 15 years back in a time when growing this weed was a means of revenue for me. Then I moved to a friendlier growing environment that allowed summer time outdoor gardening. Once the summer was over, Iwas right back onto the indoor hydro. Then by the time the outdoor harvest was cured and ready, I was already 6 weeks back into the hydro indoors. I sampled some of the organic outdoor (my first ever organic dirt grow), and compared it to the indoor hydro grown, and taste alone swayed be big time to pursue indoor organic gardening during the winter months. Clearly indoor hydro is faster over all in veg, and bloom resulting in more harvest weight, but the extra 10 to 15 days needed to pull off an organic dirt indoor grow is worth it to me because the taste and quality of the buss, in my opinion is superior.

If you truly want to know for yourself the difference, and discern for yourself what works best for you, do a small side-by-side within the same tent/space using clones from the same mother. First hand you will glean the type of experience necessary to form your own opinion, and define what quality meds mean for you. I'm not trying to say that an organic dirt grow is better, because it is truly a matter of opinion. And, to come to a conclusion for yourself, first hand experience will be the "truth" you need to form a quality opinion based upon outcome of finished produce.

Bottom line here is that "weed" has an ability to adapt to different growing environments, and does so with it's ability to make different types of roots for different types of growing conditions based upon it's genetic ability to survive, and succeed by reproducing seeds for the next generation/season. It's been going on in nature for millions of years.

Are you looking for quality meds, or quick turn around for an alternative consistent revenue stream? This, is maybe the question, or not. Thanks for putting up with my ramble, and you all have an awesellent weekend!

Na nu!

 

[Brian420pm]

transplanted directly into a larger container without removing it from the original smart pot.

This is the first I've read this technique of putting one smart pot directly into another without removing the rootball. This destroys the smaller pot, correct? The 1 gallon pots are not very expensive so this may be just a perfect way to reduce stress, love it!

 

[Archiweedies]

This is the first I've read this technique of putting one smart pot directly into another without removing the rootball. This destroys the smaller pot, correct? The 1 gallon pots are not very expensive so this may be just a perfect way to reduce stress, love it!

I wouldn’t say it destroys the fabric pot. I’ve had roots go through the fabric bags before and the bags still work great.

 

[Alafornia]

Wonderful thread here. Still trying to absorb it all. Hopefully I'll have it by the time I go to grow.

 

[Monkeyluv]

Yes, yes! I have read this 3 times now to understand how I can integrate some of the watering practices into my grow routine. So much to learn, and so much I have forgot. This thread is truly educational, and I would like to tank everyone who has participated and shared their wisdom and trials. Sharing the love, one take at a time! Na nu!

 

[BooMtoLate]

Sometimes people overthink stuff, if your plants need water then water them, if they don’t well then skip it. I’m a firm believer that the soil should remain moist and never dry out. I grow outdoors in pots and directly in the ground. I’ve never had a problem with just dumping couple litres on a plant and carrying on with me day.