The Mega Crop Thread

You're welcome. While I don't have an autopot system (yet, and I stress yet), I really, really like them a lot. They bring many things I like together in one setup. :D

I would put some type of small pump in the res though, to keep it stirred up. Also running z7 to keep the fittings clean would probably help too.

The pump I have going, just enough to break the surface on a full resevoir.


Do I add the z7 into the resevoir like any regular feeding, or do I just run a flush every couple of weeks?
 
Z7 should be added about every 3 days (IIRC) for normal operations. It does a nice job though.

If it were a straight leeching type system, I'm not sure how effective Z7 would be, honestly. Mainly because it's such a minimal amount at a slow pace. But with the pots going down and filling back up, you get more water running through the pieces which should help.

Do you have a screen or some type of filter in your res on the outflow to protect down the line? Shouldn't need anything fancy.
 
Z7 should be added about every 3 days (IIRC) for normal operations. It does a nice job though.

If it were a straight leeching type system, I'm not sure how effective Z7 would be, honestly. Mainly because it's such a minimal amount at a slow pace. But with the pots going down and filling back up, you get more water running through the pieces which should help.

Do you have a screen or some type of filter in your res on the outflow to protect down the line? Shouldn't need anything fancy.

I've got the little filter that comes with the system
 
Two weeks from hitting the surface... MegaCrop, Vulx, Soil, Tapwater, No PH adjustment... I think it is working.
DSCF7500.JPG
 
No ph adjustment on tap water.... wow... THATS AMAZING! I'm going to be using DWC though. Could probably never get away with that.
you may be able to. it's all about how the plant uses a chelate based nute as opposed to salt.
as em has pointed out, we ph for the nutes in a salt based system, not for the plant.
 
you may be able to. it's all about how the plant uses a chelate based nute as opposed to salt.
as em has pointed out, we ph for the nutes in a salt based system, not for the plant.
I'm more concerned with what's already present in the tap water. Although, it will be a new location and I have yet to test it. Moving monday and I'll have to see if I can get a report.
 
I'm more concerned with what's already present in the tap water. Although, it will be a new location and I have yet to test it. Moving monday and I'll have to see if I can get a report.
for my current hempy grow i am on RO. go that way if you have the filters to start. negates any issue with the water.
 
I admit I am totally perplexed because everyone else seems to be getting great results with MegaCrop but whether I use less than is recommended or more I get the same yellow dying leaves shortly after flipping. I am using tap water and not adjusting pH and using Promix HP.

I appreciate input but honestly, I have read every post on this thread and have tried flushing and using more and less MC and nothing has helped so I doubt anyone is going to tell me anything I haven't heard before but I am open to suggestions.

Just from overnight I can see a significant increase in yellowing so today I am going to break down and buy some calmag and see if that is my problem. I started getting deficiencies shortly into flower so I went from 6 to 7 to 8 to 9g/gal over a month or so and it is looking just like my OG did. But when my OG starting show signs I dropped from 6 down to 5g/gal so lowering it didn't help either?

The leaf on the right is from my reversed NL which is getting 6g/gal and is a healthy green like it should be but the middle leaf is how the average leaf on my budding NL looks and the left is what it will turn into. If calmag isn't my problem I have no idea what it is. But why do I need calmag when no one else seems to with MC. Mostly I am just venting. :confused:

11111.jpg
 
I admit I am totally perplexed because everyone else seems to be getting great results with MegaCrop but whether I use less than is recommended or more I get the same yellow dying leaves shortly after flipping. I am using tap water and not adjusting pH and using Promix HP.

I appreciate input but honestly, I have read every post on this thread and have tried flushing and using more and less MC and nothing has helped so I doubt anyone is going to tell me anything I haven't heard before but I am open to suggestions.

Just from overnight I can see a significant increase in yellowing so today I am going to break down and buy some calmag and see if that is my problem. I started getting deficiencies shortly into flower so I went from 6 to 7 to 8 to 9g/gal over a month or so and it is looking just like my OG did. But when my OG starting show signs I dropped from 6 down to 5g/gal so lowering it didn't help either?

The leaf on the right is from my reversed NL which is getting 6g/gal and is a healthy green like it should be but the middle leaf is how the average leaf on my budding NL looks and the left is what it will turn into. If calmag isn't my problem I have no idea what it is. But why do I need calmag when no one else seems to with MC. Mostly I am just venting. :confused:

11111.jpg



pic of the whole plant please homer. that photo means little.

reversed plants go through a huge ugly period. may be what you are experiencing.
 
pic of the whole plant please homer. that photo means little.

reversed plants go through a huge ugly period. may be what you are experiencing.

Actually the healthy leaf on the right is from the reversed plant and the yellow ones are from my budding NL. Here are more pics of it.

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333.jpg

444.jpg
555.jpg
 
That’s a magnesium deficiency
That is what it looks like to me but I am giving it 9g/gal of MC and conventional wisdom is that upping the MC gets rid of that and the recommended dose is 6g/gal so I don't see how it is but that is about my only culprit left so like I said I am going to buy some calmag today. Thanks Penny.
 
Homer, if you're going to roll the calmag way, might I suggest tackling 2 birds with 1 stone?

a) Get the Gen Hydrom Cal Mag + (CaliMagic+?) it's a 1-0-0 base.
b) Get some DynaGro ProTekt which is silica, and it's a 0-0-3 base.

Use a 1:1 ratio of calmag to the protekt and you'll be in business. In flower, try 5g of each in flower. I add the calmag, mix, then the silica, and mix, then add in your MC and mix. May be able to add the silica last, but not sure.


The short of all of that, is really for the silica. It helps in building your stems and branches, as well as enabling the plant to better fight against things too. Since you're going to add the calmag anyway, might as well get the silica benefit too, and also keep your NPK ratios in the right spot. :)
 
That is what it looks like to me but I am giving it 9g/gal of MC and conventional wisdom is that upping the MC gets rid of that and the recommended dose is 6g/gal so I don't see how it is but that is about my only culprit left so like I said I am going to buy some calmag today. Thanks Penny.
Totally new to the MC world so no experience at all with it. However, from what I've read, the first version of the nutes did that. The second version and forward corrected the mag issues. Maybe that's why you are having issues everyone else isn't? You might just have the first version that is gonna require some mag correction and the others are running a later version? I don't know... just a thought.

But I agree, some calmag should fix it.
 
Actually the healthy leaf on the right is from the reversed plant and the yellow ones are from my budding NL. Here are more pics of it.

222.jpg
333.jpg

444.jpg
555.jpg



i see mostly a little healthy nute tipping suggesting you are at the high edge of the nutes, and a normal yellowing as the plant pulls reserves from the fans to build...

what's the media homer ? kinda looks like perlite in cloth bag which is out there if it is lol
 
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