The Mega Crop Thread

Using V2 MC, FFHF soil, Mars Hydro Eco 300 for seedling start, moving to ts600 early because coverage on the eco 300 is 1sq foot.

Currently watering 4 ounces in circles around the seedlings. They are autoflowering so I move them from Rapid rooter to 5gal pots immediately.

What strength MC should I start after 3 weeks?
You can start adding MC anytime after the first or second set of leaves at mild doses for autos. I start after the second set of leaves at 1g then increase as she grows. You want autos to grow up fast so feeding early is key.
 
Using V2 MC, FFHF soil, Mars Hydro Eco 300 for seedling start, moving to ts600 early because coverage on the eco 300 is 1sq foot.

Currently watering 4 ounces in circles around the seedlings. They are autoflowering so I move them from Rapid rooter to 5gal pots immediately.

What strength MC should I start after 3 weeks?
I have used 1 g MegaCrop / 4 L for every week above ground. So if you are at 3 weeks above ground, 3g MegaCrop / 4 L water.
Just mix a full strength milk jug @ 6g / 4L and dilute your feedings from that.

However with Fox Farm soil, I dont know how robust it is with other existing organic nutes . Start with 2 g Mega Crop / 4 L, pay attention to your cotys, if they turn yellow and shrivel, up your MegaCrop.

 
Excited to go from this...
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Down to 2-3 things to mix. Sometimes my head starts spinning when I start mixing everything together. Will be nice to streamline the nutes.
 




























 
Hey all thanks for all the relpys and discussion. The soil I'm in is a combo of FFOF and Detroit Nutrient Co. soil. I'm using tap like Emily, but I run it through a britta filter I've Jerry rigged to fill with all I need for one watering. The bizarre plants are the ones showing the most in our continuing visibly to Yellow each day the other plants aren't showing nearly the issues that the Mazars are but I can see the signs progressing but much slower. The last feed was at 4.5 g MC, and that was the second feed at that level. But growth is good so far. Again I appreciate the conversation. I'm debating the flush or just continue to drop the amount like Emily did.
And someone mentioned the cold issues I had, yes that sucked and I know it stunted my growth , but I solved the cold issue and they took off.
 
Cold can be hell on plants in terms of nutrient uptake, so keeping the low in the high 60s is advised.
Why not come back with 1gm/gal less? If the problem was pH related, the flush would have handled it.
I'm unclear on how flushing the soil will solve a pH problem with it. The only way to correct a pH problem with soil or peat would be by somehow adding the correct buffer (up or down) to it.

You can't modify the pH of a substrate by pouring water through it, except possibly creating problems by washing out all the buffering material.
 
Theoretically after a flush there would be no lockout and no need to reduce the amount of food. Again, the plant is in the late stages of flower so taking away key nutes is detrimental to the plant.

No harm in lengthy discussions when the OP has not come back to add anything. It's still deteriorating as he hasn't seen any of the discussions I would think.
I have always done the same even in hydro. Flush then come back to full strength Nutes. Never have reduced and will continue. If flushing at the end doesn’t matter because plant tissue has shown the same levels after 2 weeks of no nutrients, to me does coming in at 1/4 or 1/2 strength really even make sense?
 
Cold can be hell on plants in terms of nutrient uptake, so keeping the low in the high 60s is advised.

I'm unclear on how flushing the soil will solve a pH problem with it. The only way to correct a pH problem with soil or peat would be by somehow adding the correct buffer (up or down) to it.

You can't modify the pH of a substrate by pouring water through it, except possibly creating problems by washing out all the buffering material.
There you go about pH again... I thought I made it clear that I don't think pH has anything to do with this. I have not suggested flushing the soil for any other reason than to clear the excess nutes, namely, Calcium.
 
@Emilya I am currently catching up on your pineapple chunk 2020 journal and marveling at the explosive growth!

So much so that I just ordered myself some vulx too! Going to add it to the ffof I've got.

I'm getting really excited for my mc to show up now too!!! :thumb: :cheer:
 





























@Jack420 :cool:you have a beautiful crop, I enjoy your photo's.
 
Just throwing this out there for data related purposes. I've only been using MC for a few months now, so I'm pretty damn new to this fert ( and growing in general )..

I've been having issues lately ( brown spotting on mid to lower leaves [ look like Ca issues to me ], and chlorosis on some lower leaves ). Many of the upper leaves on these plants were a dark green - not MC green, so I reduced my feeding by 1g/gal MC, and stopped using CalMag and ProSI ( new EC = 1.25 ). This was done 5 days ago. Leaves are slowing turning to MC green. My PH has stabilized, and plants are eating and drinking again ( Water level decreasing, TDS decreasing, PH static ). Things appear to be back on track. But who knows what the future holds :)

Prior to the reduction, I was dosing @ 6g/gal MC + 1ml/gl of Calmag AND ProSi. EC = 1.8 - 1.9. These are pretty large plants and are 3 weeks into flowering - 7 weeks old in total.

This in in hydro btw.
 
There you go about pH again...
Just so i'm clear, I suggested it looked like a pH issue. Not once have I stated IT IS a pH issue. My very first post stated to do a slurry test so that could be proved true or false and as far as I know the OP has not done that.

This FFOF and Detroit Soil Co mix raises flags for me right away! He's using a LOS and mixed it with FFOF. I'm guessing he's got quite an interesting mix of stuff going on in there. I could be wrong and I have no problem with that but unless he does a test on the soil we'll never know. Maybe he's got an excess amount of Ca in the soil and that's what you are seeing.

What I did say is that you were incorrect in your Ca diagnosis from too much MC. I never stated not to flush the plant, I stated the advice to flush and come back with weaker nutes was also incorrect.
 
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