The Mega Crop Thread

got another q for y'all,, this has nagged at me for years, gotta say. never read a definitive answer to this, or never looked,, one of those

something @Old Salt (i think) posted recently,, about the temp of his res,, being 70 or so when mixing and 60 or so when put to reservoir.

i have always been concerned that the water i water with is too cold,, in hempy,, which is hydro,, mostly

i know some folks even have to buy chillers to keep res temp down,, so

am i being unnecessarily paranoid about the temp of the water i water with?

,, and note i never use 'freezing' water

probably sixty degrees minimum ever

Those temperatures were added for completeness. It's warmer in the kitchen where the RO tap is, and I pull about 3 liters or quarts from it at a time, whenever I go for a coffee, so the temperature will reach about 70°F. It's cooler in the room where I grow, so the temperature drops. It's usually about 12hrs after I mix.
 
In order for you to find that it can increase your buds in any way you would need to embrace the theory that cannabis can use more P and K than is in MegaCrop. This would be in spite of the fact that MC already contains lots of K, and that tissue analysis shows very little P used in flower. Where does all that excess go if not into the plants?

You would also need to believe that LOS growers are missing out on bud production, due to the soils inability to suddenly deliver very high amounts of P and K to cannabis plants in flower the way we can with synthetic nutes. I can't recall hearing LOS growers generally complaining about the size of their buds.



And when @multiVortex says "Here is a general feeding schedule from @farside05 that works extremely well," it needs to be noted why farside has decided to modify his feeding with MegaCrop. He can explain it better than I can, but it begins with what he feels is an insufficient amount of silica in MC, not N, P, or K. The blend he makes is necessary because silica rides along with potassium, and to keep the NPK ratio he wants intact, he needs to add nitrogen to balance the mix. His schedule was not designed to add calcium or magnesium. It rides along with the nitrogen he seeks.

Farside can correct me if I'm wrong about that.
My LOS buds just got on with it and while not as ig as the Mc ladies in the end. They still just needed water and no additional p,k. had some steller buds
20200126_005119.jpg
20200120_203638.jpg
20200111_221042.jpg
MC for the win though.
 
got another q for y'all,, this has nagged at me for years, gotta say. never read a definitive answer to this, or never looked,, one of those

something @Old Salt (i think) posted recently,, about the temp of his res,, being 70 or so when mixing and 60 or so when put to reservoir.

i have always been concerned that the water i water with is too cold,, in hempy,, which is hydro,, mostly

i know some folks even have to buy chillers to keep res temp down,, so

am i being unnecessarily paranoid about the temp of the water i water with?

,, and note i never use 'freezing' water

probably sixty degrees minimum ever

IIRC, @Old Salt is on a watering schedule, not actual hydro. So temps are a different concern with that, but actually pretty close to yours (and mine, for one of my plants.

For some hydro (DWC, RDWC) you want your water as close to 70F-72F as possible as at this temp the water can hold the most dissolved oxygen. Roots being submerged in water, well, that's where they get their O2. It also is a good temp to avoid pathogens, as they can pop up with water temps getting warmer.


Now with running a basic watering res that you drain to waste with, the oxygen levels aren't near as critical. Thus, temps aren't as crucial for the water. That brings us to dutch buckets. I have a plant hooked up circulating style with a 5gal res. I cycle water 3x day, and let it go for about 30 minutes each time. This gives it plenty of water to circulate around, and seems to be working really well. I could go shorter, but the timer I ended up having to use is mechanical and only in 30min increments.

The water temp? Beats me. Probably 68F or so. I don't measure it, and doesn't really matter unless it were super cold in the room. It runs pretty steady at about 68F-70F in the room, so good enough. IIRC with water temps you want to keep it above 62F, but can't remember for 100% on that. Other than that, it could be 75F water, no big thing. I do still use Z7 and hydroguard though, just to be safe.



ok, ya i will,, ha,, there is 12.7 grams of mega crap in there,, ha

ya know,, logic tells me there is no way that quart jar could be 'over saturated',, no way

that quart jar is 1/8th of the full volume of water,,

no way full volume would be that saturated at the end for 1/8th to be 'over' saturated,, nope,, logic says no


I mix up 300g in a 5gal bucket to then dump into my barrel. If I let it sit for a good while, I might see precip. I can't say for sure though since I don't let it sit for long periods of time. I mix it up, let it sit for maybe 15 minutes, then mix it up again and dump it in the barrel. Then I mix it up again in the barrel (I use a drill paddle/paint mixer) and let the pump in the barrel circulate it all for 30-60 minutes. Then I pH, and let it circulate while I run the drain pump and shop vac. About 20 minutes later, I'm filling back up.
 
IIRC, @Old Salt is on a watering schedule, not actual hydro.

It's drain-to-waste hydroponics with a coco/perlite substrate. You are right that it isn't traditional hydro such as DWC, RDWC, Ebb and Flow, etc, where the plants have access to the nutrients in the entire batch for several days.
 
It's drain-to-waste hydroponics with a coco/perlite substrate. You are right that it isn't traditional hydro such as DWC, RDWC, Ebb and Flow, etc, where the plants have access to the nutrients in the entire batch for several days.


I remembered it kinda close then. :)

Temps less important for those types then. At that point it's not about O2, so that helps a bunch. I need to get back into your journal and see how your GDP's are doing. Mine sure is trying to grow after being the runt of the litter.
 
I remembered it kinda close then. :)

Temps less important for those types then. At that point it's not about O2, so that helps a bunch. I need to get back into your journal and see how your GDP's are doing. Mine sure is trying to grow after being the runt of the litter.

The two mid sized ones are in the 48-72hr dark period before the chop. I decided not to screw them like Emilya did in her last grow. :rofl:
 
The two mid sized ones are in the 48-72hr dark period before the chop. I decided not to screw them like Emilya did in her last grow. :rofl:


Whoohoo! That's going to be great!
 
i would be extremely interested in seeing more info on this,, tested,,

quote"he tested it",,,,,, :hmmmm: :nerd-with-glasses::straightface: please expand this
I do computer work for someone with access to a mass spectrometer. He tested the residue. He's trying MC. Cal/mag showed in the white residue and a bunch of other stuff you'd expect in nutes. Oddly enough mass spectrometers are used in urine tests in some cases, they used to call it a burn down test.
 
6.5g MC premixed in a 6 oz jar






these are the chunks before a weak shake..




can clearly see some little calcium balls slightly dissolved but not even broken down
after a quick shake...




much more broken down but still present. it took a bit to get it to gather in the one corner.
after a 60 second zap in the mic and a second shake...





so little left it is near impossible to get it to gather together. about 70 - 80% of the precipitate melts in after the zap. the rest dissolves near immediately when it hits the rest of the water. 20 min after adding it to the rest of the feed water i will have no significant material.

this is consistent from mix to mix.
 
cheers @bluter for your research,, this residue problem is not as big an issue for me as it was before,,

now to hog the airwaves again,, to show my success with mega crap,,

by the power of two this is by far the biggest plant i have ever grown,, and still growing,,

now i need confirmation from the source,, @Weaselcracker to verify the strain,, but as near as i can read,, it is a panama/cheese cross pollinated with cheese treated with colloidal silver,, (that the right word?)

P1170670.JPG
back on nov 19 i had this oddity sprout up,, three banger

P1170686 (2).JPG
dec 26 it looked thusly,,, and today,, oh my,, :thedoubletake:

P1170723.JPG
this is inside my house,, not in

my studio,, in house i have a 1mtr/1mtr mars tent with my rapid led light, and this plant takes up most of it.

its odd but not odd,, the environments inside and in studio are very different as in temp, humidity and other stuff possibly,, and the plants requirements are different as well, as in tolerates ph flucts better indoors,, and needs less nutes indoors as well, as told by the burnt tips that i can see

P1170724.JPG
there is the tristump there,,

and the last plant in my operation,, this one stunning,,

another from the 'vaults of cracker',, a mama thai cross, a la @Weaselcracker ,, stellar pot, gotta say,, have not had this plant growing for a while, and am very excited about this one,,


P1170725.JPG


pale green pistols and big and billions of em,, :headbanger:

P1170726.JPG


i am certainly in a league i am not used to being in here, with all this. it's gonna work me hard to keep this going this well,,

but,, i have a secret weapon,, ha

mega crop

cheers friends :volcano-smiley:
 
Mc girls after hair cut still recovering but will post more pics later I’m at 6 g of mc cal n silica boy they def doin a bit better then last run
 
For now atleast last run I forgot even how my wall did look hopfully for a better run with no bugs n no herms got gelato k cbd cpk n cheese n there so dam frosty from the start



Some close shots yess they do look like hermit the frog green but it def the light but now all flowers are getting full light
 
Back
Top Bottom