How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
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Boy, does that resonate wit dis guy!
When your standout success over a period of a year or more is growing pot, a person has to wonder what God has in mind ...
Seriously?
How exciting that your seeds are popping!
Cant wait to watch this movie. The credits alone are awesome.
.....using the wet/dry cycle, requires an attentive gardener. Do you find that plants dry at different rates, or do they behave pretty consistently as a group? I guess what I was asking is do you find you treat them as a group or as individuals?
I think the only reason using doc's kit might be a little confusing is that his thread is 500 pages and it's pretty overwhelming lol. I'm trying to get a schedule down with high brix before I order the kit and get rolling with it. I think I can manage it now, finally. I'll be watching to see how you do, Sue. I like seeing what everyone is doing with the kit!
Very few people ever said it was confusing till Sue came along. Everyone mostly says its easy, autopilot, boring....etc. Sue seems to have convinced others it's confusing which really bothers me.
If someone read my "In the Lab" thread, they'd find most techniques described in tutorial form, including the watering styles, etc.
Instead of following someone who has exactly ONE grow on their resume and letting her teach you how to use my kit----and she's doing things I don't recommend especially for a brand new grower and a first time user of the kit----please read journals of those who have been using it for a long time.
Again, the only time I ever hear how about how confusing it is is when Sue is talking. Everyone else talks about how simple it is.
It's one long, steady attack on a fantastic product and on me personally.
Mornin SS and Gang....yes Doc...I feel your pain...it must be very ,very frustrating at times with all the research ,work, and never ending questions you answer on a daily basis.Personally I've found the "KIT" instructions to be very ,very clear and consise. If growers are having a tough time with the "kit's" instructions I would suggest they take a few minutes....that's all it takes ,a few minutes to go over to "in the lab" and read a little...it's all there, and is easy. It's growing plants for heavens sake ,not building the space shuttle.It's not that hard to figure out...is it?Have a great day gang....cheers.
Yep. And if a person thinks it's confusing, perhaps they should read the journals of the last few POTM, POTY, NOTM, NOTM journals who all use my kit and who never said it was confusing! Oh....You're one of them Duggan! You won POTM on your first try, didn't you?
If you want to be confused, follow those who claim to be confused. If you want simple, turn off the noise, read the directions and ask questions from people who have been using the kit successfully for a couple years.
My system is SIMPLE and reliable. First time growers are growing world-class weed on their first try and they aren't saying it's confusing. All that crap is here.
As far as I'm concerned, this thread is nothing more than false advertising.
I didn't really mean to offend. If you're new to growing and stumble across a 500 page thread dedicated to HiBrix growing with your kit, you may feel a little overwhelmed lol. Since I've found ALL the directions and documented the way you(Doc Bud) does things, I feel much more confident.
Let me be more clear, the only thing that is somewhat confusing about using the kit is the math that you may have to involve. I'm not the greatest math whiz out there, so sometimes I have difficulty grasping some of the directions but I've since figured it out. I also browse this forum when I'm pretty medicated so I tend to over do things in my head
don't worry, doc, I see your results and I see everyone who is using the kit's results. They speak for themselves! That's why I am asking all these questions so I can completely prepare myself for the switch to a different type of growing.
edit: the math is somewhat confusing to ME, maybe not other people. I am speaking for MYSELF only.
Updated Instructions: October 2014
The Kit:
The End User will need the following:
3.8 cu ft bale of ProMix HP myco, or Sunshine #4 or Promix BX myco. Perlite can be added to the BX in order increase porosity for indoor growing.
20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)
A proper growing environment, basic gardening skills, 7 gallon pots and a sprayer capable of putting out a fine spray.
The Products:
Drenches
Growth Energy: This product increases soil energy and provides vegetative growth energy and bulking of fruit and flowers once formed.
Transplant: This product, being organic, slightly favors reproductive growth of seeds, flowers and fruit. It is used to feed the microbial colony in the soil mostly, but it also boosts reproductive growth.
Cat Drench: This product increases soil energy, highly favors reproductive growth and provides cations and the ammonia form of nitrogen, which strongly stimulate fruiting and flowering, as well as seed production.
All drenches are mixed at 1/2 ounce per 6 plants(30 sq. feet of garden space for those in raised beds) Applications up to 1.5 oz can be applied without harm, but very few plants require this much. Heavy feeders might try .75 oz before mixing stronger.
Another practice some container growers are finding helpful is to include 1/4 strength Transplant with every watering.
Foliar Sprays:
Brix: Sprayed every week to 10 days, this product encourages reproductive growth and essential oil and resin production. Brix foliar should not be skipped, even if the plants look perfect.
De-Stress: This product helps plants heal, deal with stress and provides a broad spectrum of trace minerals. This can be sprayed 1-2 times per week when there are signs of plant stress. If the plants look "perfect" there is no reason to spray with De-Stress. Also, mixed at 50% strength it helps high brix clones root much faster.
Both foliar sprays are mixed at 1oz per quart of RO. Use Brix immediately after mixing. De-stress can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Soil Amendments
Amendment: this product is mixed into the bale of Promix, watered, and allowed to "cook" in a barrel for a minimum of 30 days in order to get the soil ready for planting. Please note that the most recent version of amendment has the old "conditioner" added to it already!
Re-Charge: This product is similar to Amendment, but has a few additions and ommisions. It is designed to be top dressed during the 3rd week of the bloom cycle. Outdoors, apply re-charge when buds have set. It's best to scratch it into the top layer of soil and gently water it in to avoid soil compaction.
Roots!: This is a microbial inoculate. A light dusting on rootballs during transplanting and a small amount at the bottom of the hole where seeds are planted is the proper use for this product. 1 Tablespoon per transplanted cutting sprinkled in and around the hole is perfect. More can be used when transplanting from the Veg area to the Bloom containers. Water with 1/4 Transplant for the first application of Roots!.
Tea: This is a liquid humate product loaded with beneficials. It is mixed with each feeding at the rate of 2.5 mil per 6 plants (30 square feet)
So, how does all this work together?
Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:
Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:
Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.
Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered for one month. Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.
Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!
Seeds:
Using a gallon sized container of newly cooked High Brix soil, make sure the soil is still slightly moist from the barrel. Not soaking wet....but moist.
Using a pencil, or chopstick or a non-functioning vape pen, make a divet in the soil about 1/4 inch deep. Add a small amount of ROOTS! in and around this hole, in which you deposit the seed and lightly cover with surrounding dirt. Gently water with 1/4 strength Transplant if needed to keep the soil moist, but not wet.
Clones:
Pretty much the same as seeds, but use enough ROOTS! to completely dust the roots and put a small amount at the bottom of the hole. Water with 1 pint of water, or 1/4 strength Transplant drench.
Upcanning of larger plants:
Vertically score the roots, dust all roots with ROOTS!, place some in the bottom of the hole, gently position rootball and soak the medium with water and 1/4 strength Transplant.
Water All seeds, all newly transplanted clones and newly tranplanted vegging plants with 1/4 strength Tranpslant
Use of Foliar Sprays:
Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress.
Mix each spray at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.
Using Drenches:
Tea: All drenches are "served" with 2.5 mils of Tea. No execptions.
In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water plus 1/4 strength Transplant between drenches with one exception.*
Growth Energy: used nearly exclusively in veg. This is where strong stems and healthy leaves come from. It is also used during the latter half of the bloom cycle to bulk up fruit and flowers. Mix at 1/2 oz per 6 plants. Stronger doses can be used if needed, but generally you'll just waste product. Finishing the growing cycle on Growth Energy results in a sweeter produce.
Transplant Should be used during the bloom phase alternating with Growth Energy. It is used at 1/2 oz per 6 plants (30 square feet.) Some growers have found that essential oil and resin production can be increased by using 1/4 oz of Transplant evenly distributed to every plant with each and every watering....whether with a drench or with just plain water. Please note, this does not mean 1/4 TO EVERY PLANT, but 1/4 oz divided equally to all plants.
**Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place. It is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.
These are the basic instructions for using the kit! A few pointers:
When in doubt about which drench to use, use Growth Energy.
If the plants seem weak and need a boost---almost never happens unless you made a mistake or there has been some environmental issue or circumstances beyond your control---try this:
1 oz. Transplant per gallon of water with 6 mils of Tea. Feed a solution with this composition to all the plants. It will re-colonize the roots and get things back on track. Do not do this if you aren't having any problems.
Use of Foliar Sprays:
Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress.
Mix each spray at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.
Using Drenches:
Tea: All drenches are "served" with 2.5 mils of Tea. No execptions.
In High Brix growing, drenches do far more than feed the plant. They signal the plant to grow or re-produce, and they keep the biology in the soil happy and productive. This is where the magic happens! Water with straight water plus 1/4 strength Transplant between drenches with one exception.*
Growth Energy: used nearly exclusively in veg. This is where strong stems and healthy leaves come from. It is also used during the latter half of the bloom cycle to bulk up fruit and flowers. Mix at 1/2 oz per 6 plants. Stronger doses can be used if needed, but generally you'll just waste product. Finishing the growing cycle on Growth Energy results in a sweeter produce.
Transplant Should be used during the bloom phase alternating with Growth Energy. It is used at 1/2 oz per 6 plants (30 square feet.) Some growers have found that essential oil and resin production can be increased by using 1/4 oz of Transplant evenly distributed to every plant with each and every watering....whether with a drench or with just plain water. Please note, this does not mean 1/4 TO EVERY PLANT, but 1/4 oz divided equally to all plants.
**Cat Drench: This is used right when buds set. It is strongly reproductive in effect and if used at the wrong time will result in stunted growth and lower yields. Used at the proper time, unprecedented resin formation takes place. It is used twice in a row (no water in between applications). Using Cat Drench late in bloom may increase certain flavors and smells, but it also results in a more "gamey" flavor in produce.
A proper growing environment, basic gardening skills, 7 gallon pots and a sprayer capable of putting out a fine spray.
All drenches are mixed at 1/2 ounce per 6 plants(30 sq. feet of garden space for those in raised beds) Applications up to 1.5 oz can be applied without harm, but very few plants require this much. Heavy feeders might try .75 oz before mixing stronger.
Another practice some container growers are finding helpful is to include 1/4 strength Transplant with every watering.
Watering Technique for Vegetative Growth
Vegetative growth is all about preparing the plant to bloom. Isn't that what it's all about, the bloom? Who cares how nice they look in veg....we want the finished product, period.
Having said that, the single most important thing to achieve prior to blooming is a robust, very large root system. I want a gallon sized rootball, nearly rootbound, when I transplant and bloom. Here's how I do it:
We'll assume the reader is using proper soil, good water, and is in a proper environment.
Back in my Hempy days, I learned very fast that it takes a week or so for the roots to grow about 10 inches down to the bottom of the pot. The plants really took off once those roots hit the moist reservoir at the bottom of the pot.
It's the same deal with soil. Most of the moisture is in the "perched water table" at the bottom of the pot.
1.)Soak the medium at the first transplanting of fresh, rooted clones into soil. Water very light again a few days later, just to moisten the top of the medium. Do not soak it again.
2.)Do not water again until the plants look like they're starting to droop. Give them a good watering at this point.
3.)Again, wait until they're starting to droop for lack of water (probably now a good 8-10 days after transplant) and this time place the pots in a tub of water and really soak the roots. As they drain, tilt the pots this way and that to try to pour off as much of the perched water table as possible.
4.)Again wait till they droop and this time give them a good feeding, making sure to add beneficials being careful to soak them.
By letting them dry out we're forcing the roots to really work at finding moisture and they'll quickly fill the pots, which is what we want. The growth you see up top will be far less spectacular, but there will be one important gain that experienced growers will appreciate:
The plants will be smaller with tighter internodes. This is because all the energy has been put into the roots, not the foliage.
At this point, the leaves will really take off, but the plant will be root bound pretty bad, so if you're trying to do a 2 plants SCOG or grow montrous trees, a second veg transplant will be needed. I like to prune up these small plants, take cuttings and put them into bloom pretty fast.
One of the worst problems you can have is a great big mass of green leaves with a substandard root system. Plants like that simply can't keep up with the demands of flowering their roots aren't up to the task.
On the other hand, having great roots and not so much foliage (you'll still have lovely leaves, just not as many) means the plant isn't wasting energy just trying to feed what's already there, or desperately trying to grow roots....it has all kinds of spare energy to concentrate on blooming!
Instead of doubling in size, my plants quadruple in size sometimes. The leaf to calyx ratio is better.....fewer leaves, more buds.
And best of all, there are so many roots that it makes it very hard to overwater and drown the roots.
Roots! That's the most important thing to accomplish for a vigorous bloom. These simple techniques aren't the ONLY way; they may not even be the best way....but they certainly work consistently.
Next up: watering techinique in bloom.
Would it be possible for someone to write (again) a very short description of, or link to-
High Brix- what it is?
what 'the kit' is?
and how to go about getting it/starting out? - for dummies/me?