The Hash Club

Omg i always wondered y mine always turned black lmao wow im guna so try qwiso the next run and tryn do it quick and see if i like that better. What's the difference is it smoother or taste better or what?

It's more potent and will dab clean. The black stuff will leave a residue when dabbed and can have a worse taste. The only downside is that you'll only get like a 10% return.
 
It's more potent and will dab clean. The black stuff will leave a residue when dabbed and can have a worse taste. The only downside is that you'll only get like a 10% return.
Well the return amounts kinda suck lol but if it gets me a cleaner end product smoother hits and it even tastes better well then that's a no Brainerd 2 me lmao.
 
Well the return amounts kinda suck lol but if it gets me a cleaner end product smoother hits and it even tastes better well then that's a no Brainerd 2 me lmao.

Yeah you can do a 2nd run with a more traditional soak too, but I just meant the first quick-run that will get you the best stuff will just be about 10% of the initial mass.
 
LOL! The one time I tried to make hash oil, I was shaking the jar with the alcohol for several minutes. No wonder I just got some sticky black shit
 
Heya friends,, just an FYI to anyone concerned

Re,, vaporiser poo, residue, remains, whatever,

I had a ounce or so of remains and i made some cco, concentrated cannabis oil, black tar, from it

Return was more than expected and i have no idea what might be contained within, but i used iso alcohol and, really, what could be in there Besides the remaining oils and a bit of vegetative matter?

Normal cco making process

Cheers
 
Heya friends,, just an FYI to anyone concerned

Re,, vaporiser poo, residue, remains, whatever,

I had a ounce or so of remains and i made some cco, concentrated cannabis oil, black tar, from it

Return was more than expected and i have no idea what might be contained within, but i used iso alcohol and, really, what could be in there Besides the remaining oils and a bit of vegetative matter?

Normal cco making process

Cheers

Well, this is the problem I have with isopropyl alcohol. Even if you get 99% rated, that's still 1% of "other" in there, that's 1,000 ppm--and that's if it is close to the 99% rating. A lot of it is probably water, but there could be traces of other contaminates as well. Given that alcohol is highly corrosive, it is indeed a solvent, one would be most prudent to expect that these trace contaminates are from the materials that the isopopyl alcohol is produced and contained within. That begin the case, I can't speculate how they manufacture it, but I'm sure it's probably exposed to a lot of plastic and metal, and so the contaminates would probably be in the metal and petroleum-distillate spectrum. It's also really impossible to say how much of that extra 1% could be comprised of contaminates versus just water.

I've never done it myself, but I suspect that if you tested 99% isopropyl alcohol with a TDS meter you would find a relatively high level of solids versus testing distilled water. So it could probably be a pretty negligible amount of solids, similar to what people would find in their tap water, but still... I don't think the assumption that it's just alcohol + water can be made.

I've also heard a lot of people warn about using isopropyl alcohol in general. The chemistry was a little over my head, but basically they conjectured that the isopropyl alochol itself will leave isotopes and bind with the plant matter to make unforseen chemical mixes that could have unknown dangers. I tend not to read too much into back-page internet scientists, but it's something to think about.

Now enough scare mongering... People have been using isowash for decades now pretty safely. I doubt the contaminates that may be present are anything more worrisome than the contaminates you'd find in canned food or some other consumable. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If you're health conscious enough to want purity and "no extras", then I'd ditch isopropyl washes and go with bubble hash with distilled water or dry-sift methods. There's really no solvent-extraction method that's going to come back 100% pure with no contaminates.

I'm sure what you have is safe enough for a short-term consumption in any case.
 
Well, what a fine bit of information you have provided,, certainly deeper into this particular subject than I have read before, and i thank you.

I would say that I probably assumed that impurities will still be present after boil off, knowing that isopropal is purposely poisoned, and i guess I have probably decided to live with the consequences, after all, I have been filling my lungs with oh so much worse for oh so long

Isopropal is available, reasonably priced, and works. I sure would like to sample some pure cannabinoid oil tho.

Cheers for the post friend
 
Well, what a fine bit of information you have provided,, certainly deeper into this particular subject than I have read before, and i thank you.

I would say that I probably assumed that impurities will still be present after boil off, knowing that isopropal is purposely poisoned, and i guess I have probably decided to live with the consequences, after all, I have been filling my lungs with oh so much worse for oh so long

Isopropal is available, reasonably priced, and works. I sure would like to sample some pure cannabinoid oil tho.

Cheers for the post friend

Nah isopropyl is poison all on its own. It won't kill you if you ingest it, but will make you wish you were dead. It's not metabolized the same way in the body as ethyl alcohol is. When you see ethyl alcohol on the shelves dyed green, that's the stuff with poison in it. They have to put an additive in it that makes people ill to ensure that drunks don't buy it and consume it.

You could also use just regular grain alcohol like everclear, but I don't see that being any cleaner really. Just less mucking around with the isoprpyl. I'd love to find a real chemist affirm what I've heard about using it, but I just decided better safe than sorry and figured if I was going to be using concentrates long term that I'd just invest in a bubble bag set. It's not quite as potent but it gives me a little peace of mind about continuing to use them long term.

But yeah like you said, you've probably been putting worse into your lungs for a lot longer now. I'll still do dabs of BHO and isowash and stuff, but switching to bubblehash for myself was just kind of decision I made to make sure I wasn't constantly doing solvent extracts for fear of what those long-term effects may be.
 
If the 1% remaining is in fact alcohol - Well - I have drunk alcohol stronger than one percent so I think we should be good :D

Well, this is the problem I have with isopropyl alcohol. Even if you get 99% rated, that's still 1% of "other" in there, that's 1,000 ppm--and that's if it is close to the 99% rating. A lot of it is probably water, but there could be traces of other contaminates as well. Given that alcohol is highly corrosive, it is indeed a solvent, one would be most prudent to expect that these trace contaminates are from the materials that the isopopyl alcohol is produced and contained within. That begin the case, I can't speculate how they manufacture it, but I'm sure it's probably exposed to a lot of plastic and metal, and so the contaminates would probably be in the metal and petroleum-distillate spectrum. It's also really impossible to say how much of that extra 1% could be comprised of contaminates versus just water.

I've never done it myself, but I suspect that if you tested 99% isopropyl alcohol with a TDS meter you would find a relatively high level of solids versus testing distilled water. So it could probably be a pretty negligible amount of solids, similar to what people would find in their tap water, but still... I don't think the assumption that it's just alcohol + water can be made.

I've also heard a lot of people warn about using isopropyl alcohol in general. The chemistry was a little over my head, but basically they conjectured that the isopropyl alochol itself will leave isotopes and bind with the plant matter to make unforseen chemical mixes that could have unknown dangers. I tend not to read too much into back-page internet scientists, but it's something to think about.

Now enough scare mongering... People have been using isowash for decades now pretty safely. I doubt the contaminates that may be present are anything more worrisome than the contaminates you'd find in canned food or some other consumable. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If you're health conscious enough to want purity and "no extras", then I'd ditch isopropyl washes and go with bubble hash with distilled water or dry-sift methods. There's really no solvent-extraction method that's going to come back 100% pure with no contaminates.

I'm sure what you have is safe enough for a short-term consumption in any case.
 
I do want to get myself one of those dry sift tumble machines. A fellow grower tipped me about a very inexpensive product. Looking like something from IKEA but should do the job. Not sure if I am allowed to link to the product, but google "Pollen Extractor"

I would go for the 150 micron version and then do oil with the remains. But the default option is 180 micron.

european-pollen-extractor.jpg
 
I do want to get myself one of those dry sift tumble machines. A fellow grower tipped me about a very inexpensive product. Looking like something from IKEA but should do the job. Not sure if I am allowed to link to the product, but google "Pollen Extractor"

I would go for the 150 micron version and then do oil with the remains. But the default option is 180 micron.

european-pollen-extractor.jpg
Looks like a cheap rock tumbler from elementary school lol. Hey, whatever works and saves time! Cool idea!
 
I got to say that the machine does look good but I think a better quality is achieved using the old school Morrocan drum methods . I'm sure that the machine is great I'm just a believer in the Human touch . I got say that I really enjoy this thread I am a lover of good Hashish or Charas
Recently I went and brought 3&a half Ozz just for me . I find as I get further into it the more I am noticing Henna stains on my fingers . but when I get a nice bit, I am transported straight back to Tangier cazbar . . . I know this may sound as sad as but when I get that wonderful Morrocan taste or smell it's enough to make me feel secure . Old age don't always suck it's holding amazing memories made 3 dimensional theses days by most things 420 .
 
Old age don't always suck it's holding amazing memories made 3 dimensional theses days by most things 420 .

Love that.....so very true!
 
Did another run in the bubblemachine, this time with 140g of mixed trim and early buds from a hermie.
Ended up with 5g of the good stuff between 90-38 micron, and 6g of the semi grade betweeen the 185-90 micron ;)
I did 3 washes, First wash 3 minutes, second wash 15 minutes, third wash 15 minutes, and added ice before each wash of course.

For the next run I'll have the 120 and 25 bags I ordered :)

DSC0238610.JPG

DSC0239110.JPG
 
Have found the content of every bag to be smokable. It's fun - isn't it? To make hash

Getting really sick of the ice washing though. Doubt I will make more hash until I get that pollen extractor. Then I will also want to get in to infused oil - Think the remains after running them through the extractor will have enough left in them to make some good medicine
 
So got about 150g I grew....don't care for it much kind of made a big mistake curing it(it dried too fast) so not a big fan of the smell/taste.....however, it grew wonderfully, is loaded with trichs and was very resinous.

So I saw a video yesterday about making bubble hash using the different bags with ice & water and read through here. Still have only a very basic understanding of what needs to be done.

I see you all freeze it first, and you also crumble it all by hand....my bud is in jars, been jarred since Nov....is it best to crumble it(break it up) before freezing it or after freezing it? Does the length or time in the freezer matter at all? I probably won't get to doing this for another couple weeks, so I have the option to put it in the freezer now if it's best.

These are the steps to the process as I understand it;
1. Put 220 micron bag in bucket add a little water + ice then some of the weed & start softly mixing it with your hands, continue doing this until all your weed is in and the 5 gal bucket is about 4gal full
2. Take blender and blend for 15 min
3. Let settle for 15 min
4. Repeat step 2+3 for 1-2 hours adding a little more ice every time
5. Slowly lift 220 micron bag out letting all the water drip into the bucket(will I be re-using the contents in this bag again in different water?)
6. Put remaining micron bags in 2nd 5gal bucket
7. Dump water from 1st 5gal bucket into 2nd bucket
8. Start pulling bags out 1 by one....letting each drip dry(for how long?) back into the bucket before moving on to the next bag.
9. Scrape bottom of each bag off
10. Kind of lost what happens beyond this point

I see you mention re-washing it, is that taking what was left in the 220 bag and putting it through that entire process again? I want the best final product I can get without investing $$$(still have needs first for the grow room) but I'm willing to put the labor hours them self into it, very patient and by no means lazy, you all say it takes 'time' to make the final product better, what time though? Is it one of steps 1-10 I need to be patient with?

Any advice would be awesome, like if using something then a blender is better I'm all ears, if doing any of the steps differently gives better results I'm open to learning :Namaste:
 
Any advice would be awesome, like if using something then a blender is better I'm all ears, if doing any of the steps differently gives better results I'm open to learning

Just a bubble noob myself, but I'll respond with some tips I think might help.

1. I don't put the 220 into the 1st bucket at all. I don't see any need for the mixture to be in the bag for mixing. It'll make it harder to stir and you'll just bang the shit out of the bag. You can just filter it through that bag fist in the 2nd bucket. So step one is layering broken up weed with ice into the 1st bucket, then adding super cold water so you've got an icy slurry
2. Let that sit for ~30 min to get really, really cold
3. I just use a big stick (sawed off an old hockey stick) and stir it for about 15 min
4. Pour all this into bucket 2 where you have all your bags layered - 25 micron at bottom - 220 at top.
5. Now let it settle for 15-30 minutes
6. Start by pulling the 220 with all the weed and place that into the 1st bucket. You'll use this later for a 2nd and 3rd run.
7. Now pull out one bag at a time and stretch it out over a smaller bucket or bowl - I use a mixing bowl. Scrape off the hash and put it onto the little screen that comes with your bags. Fold over the screen and dab out some moisture with a paper towel. Then transfer the chunks to cardboard.
8. Continue working through all your bags creating separate piles on your cardboard

Repeat these steps with the same material for a 2nd and 3rd run. You'll be surprised how much these runs will produce.

Next steps are how I did it last time, which worked out pretty good:

9. Freeze the piles (still keeping them separated). I put them on a plate for this part
10. Use a microplane to grind the frozen chunks into powder back onto the cardboard. Use a lot of area so there's plenty of air flow for drying.
11. Let this dry for a couple of days
12. Scrape the dried, powdered hash into separate piles for each grade, then move it into separate jars. I used jars that have an air lock lid.
13. Cure the hash like you do with buds. Keep opening the jars daily, then weekly, etc until the hash is dry enough so you don't have to worry about mold. I lost most of my first batch to mold.
 
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