My 2 cents, i always grow in SIPS in the tent. I fill the rez when empty and topdress with Geoflora and water it in from the top every 2 weeks, wether in veg or flower. Never had issues, always had successful grows.
Now thats worth 2 cents! Awesome G. Any chance you ever stuck a cheapo water stick in to see how wet it was? What size of sips and how much water do you use when you water in the Geoflora?
 
Now thats worth 2 cents! Awesome G. Any chance you ever stuck a cheapo water stick in to see how wet it was? What size of sips and how much water do you use when you water in the Geoflora?
Never used a water stick but will get one. My SIPS is a 5 gallon bucket and i use a half gallon watering can to water 2 plants so about 1/4 gallon per 5 gallon bucket. The 5 gallon bucket is not a 5 gallon plant pot but an actual 5 gallon bucket. The plant pot is a lot smaller
 
Never used a water stick but will get one. My SIPS is a 5 gallon bucket and i use a half gallon watering can to water 2 plants so about 1/4 gallon per 5 gallon bucket. The 5 gallon bucket is not a 5 gallon plant pot but an actual 5 gallon bucket. The plant pot is a lot smaller
Too clarify, 1/4 gal per 5gal bucket when i topdress with Geoflora every 2 weeks
 
I went back thru my notes, today is actually Day 23 in soil for these RVDV clones. When I planted them I numbered them 1-4. One was the best rooter, 2 the next best, and so on, but now look at how they are. Number 3 out performed the rest.

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Clone 1.

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Clone 2.

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Clone 3.

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Clone 4.

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A few days ago I root drenched all 4. It was the 1st full soaking for this mix. Before calcium gets fully soaked, it doesn't get homogenous in the mix. It is very mobile in water. So while calcium is sitting still magnesium isn't kept in check and it holds onto nitrogen. When you soak the pot, water mixes calcium into magnesium and neutralizes it's grip on nitro and a huge nitro rush hits the plant. You get clawing. I try for it. Once at about 3 weeks, once in about week 5 and once right before flip. That ensures that by the time stretch is over I have no locked up nitrogen waiting to screw me over in flower. The root drench also grows the roots fat and lush as it dries down and helps fill the pot.

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This mix isn't too bad. All that used soil is a good buffer. Normally you also get a really dark green and leathery spots on the top sides of the curls. I can see already that it's better than my 1st Gaia run. Growth of both foliage and roots is more vigorous. Color is fantastic.
 
TMSC - Day 39 of Flower.

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Boy do they look scruffy lol. They got tea today, as well as some extra EWC top dressing. I turned auto watering off, I need to pay attention and do it by hand for a week or so.

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It's creeping into the mutants but to a lesser degree. Calcium is low but the plant isn't out of food yet.

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I wonder if low calcium is what is browning my pistils.

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RV1. Thats my favorite cola too.😪 She's low on calcium and hungry.

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Ikky is starting to show the calcium deficiency too. Not as bad but it's beginning. I mixed up a bucket of dolomite water at 98ppm. I'll water with it for the next watering and then cut it to 75ppm for a couple waterings and watch.

Hopefully I don't get nuked by nitrogen.

I think the stronger Gaia mix I used for the clones will do really well. I was worried it may be too strong but the clones love it.
 
Well Dang!😯. I went into my gallery to look for an old picture and discovered I had 3,109 pictures in here lol. I think I have a problem🤣. Never did find the picture.
I had the same problem. An indexing system would be nice.
 
My 2 cents, i always grow in SIPS in the tent. I fill the rez when empty and topdress with Geoflora and water it in from the top every 2 weeks, wether in veg or flower. Never had issues, always had successful grows.

Yep, right there, I would consider that a good split between SIP and top water. Since you’re using Geoflora you’re also constantly adding calcium back to the top of the bucket.
 
Good stuff G. Do you ever experience yellowing like a nitro deficiency, or any signs of a calcium deficit? You use Rev's recipe correct?
Good morning everyone. Never had yellowing or any deficiencies. I did add calmag very occasionally only cause i read about here as a preventative. I use Fox farms bagged soil and started adding ground up oyster shells to the mix but that was in the later grows, once again as a preventative.
 
Good morning everyone. Never had yellowing or any deficiencies. I did add calmag very occasionally only cause i read about here as a preventative. I use Fox farms bagged soil and started adding ground up oyster shells to the mix but that was in the later grows, once again as a preventative.
Thanks G. Thats great info👊
 
Ikky is a brix of 10 with a crisp calcium line still, RV1 is brix 13 and back to fairly fuzzy on the calcium line, more than fuzzy enough, and Mutey is up to brix 15 with a very sweet super fuzzy calcium line.

So it looks like in 72 hours 2 of the 3 have turned it around. Ikky is really wet. She doesn't seem to be moving water, so I will let her dry down for a couple days and test again.

All leaves tested were upper mid level leaves from just below the main colas.

I'm travelling later this week so my next reading will likely not be until late Wednesday or Thursday. I will top dress again then and give a feed tea now that calcium is on the mend and microbes have been boosted. In staying true to the Gaia Green trial I will use Gaia Green Power Bloom as my tea. And some EWC of course.
 
My 2 cents, i always grow in SIPS in the tent. I fill the rez when empty and topdress with Geoflora and water it in from the top every 2 weeks, wether in veg or flower. Never had issues, always had successful grows.
I do like the water down the fill pipe concept of SIPs but I'm not opposed to watering in a weekly or bi-weekly top dressing which would likely help with the calcium cycle Gee talks about.

But I also want the high(er) brix levels to battle bugs and I'm wondering if the SIP structure with its base level air chamber addresses that issue as well.

I'm going to try the less wet on average soil for a few cycles to see if I can get the brix levels up and then I'll likely go back to a bit wetter soil along with the periodic top watering and see what that does to the brix levels.

I think between the water meter readings and those from the refractometer I should be able to get a glimpse as to the effects of both adjustments.

On a related note, I've let my other 1L mini-SIPs dry out a bit over the past few days and the new growth is coming in in a bit lighter shade of green which i assume Gee will tell us is a sign the plant is processing N a bit better.
 
I do like the water down the fill pipe concept of SIPs but I'm not opposed to watering in a weekly or bi-weekly top dressing which would likely help with the calcium cycle Gee talks about.

But I also want the high(er) brix levels to battle bugs and I'm wondering if the SIP structure with its base level air chamber addresses that issue as well.

I'm going to try the less wet on average soil for a few cycles to see if I can get the brix levels up and then I'll likely go back to a bit wetter soil along with the periodic top watering and see what that does to the brix levels.

I think between the water meter readings and those from the refractometer I should be able to get a glimpse as to the effects of both adjustments.

On a related note, I've let my other 1L mini-SIPs dry out a bit over the past few days and the new growth is coming in in a bit lighter shade of green which i assume Gee will tell us is a sign the plant is processing N a bit better.
Thats hard to say as every strain is a different shade of green, but if it's greener and not yellowing it's an improvement. Dark green, as in darker than a strain should be, is quite often an indicator of over nitrification. Brix will tell the tale. Keep a close eye for yellowing. What does the water stick say?
 
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