The Answer's Hydro Revelations

[Stgeneziz]

I've had a little bleaching from my mishaps with HPS, but like FPF said, the plant didn't seem to care a too much

 

[TheAnswer1776]

After a brief hiatus, I am back again with another update! My four mother plants are doing well, after a reservior change and upping the nutes from 300 to 600 PPM. I am setting up my aero cloner in preparation for the clones, which I can start taking anytime now. The Roadrunner autoflower is already showing signs of flower with pistils flowing. The four girls are currently 22 days in the system. I am going to seperate into individual buckets in the next few days, so they have plenty of room. I have a case of thrips in the flower room right now and am trying the soap/oil mixture. These four Church plants have been through it all now and I just want them gone!!! They have 7-10 days left, but if I can't kill the thrips, I may just chop them to move on! The one surviving Church clone is still looking good, I am just trying to ward off the thrips! Anybody have any good thrip advice? Good thing is they leave the buds alone.

Here is the Wonder Woman that was yellowed and overwatered at first. You can still see the yellow baby leaves!

And now its looking pretty good, so never give up they will come back!

 

[Blissed Out J]

Sooo Nice!!

 

[Moustache]

After a brief hiatus, I am back again with another update! My four mother plants are doing well, after a reservior change and upping the nutes from 300 to 600 PPM. I am setting up my aero cloner in preparation for the clones, which I can start taking anytime now. The Roadrunner autoflower is already showing signs of flower with pistils flowing. The four girls are currently 22 days in the system. I am going to seperate into individual buckets in the next few days, so they have plenty of room. I have a case of thrips in the flower room right now and am trying the soap/oil mixture. These four Church plants have been through it all now and I just want them gone!!! They have 7-10 days left, but if I can't kill the thrips, I may just chop them to move on! The one surviving Church clone is still looking good, I am just trying to ward off the thrips! Anybody have any good thrip advice? Good thing is they leave the buds alone.

Here is the Wonder Woman that was yellowed and overwatered at first. You can still see the yellow baby leaves!

And now its looking pretty good, so never give up they will come back!

Thrips are tough buggers. I have never dealt with them in grow room environment just in the outside world. I am attaching info from the UC Davis site. It will give you some ideas. Keep the Faith!

No pesticide provides complete control of thrips. In comparison with other insects, most thrips are difficult to control effectively with insecticides. Reasons include thrips' tiny size, great mobility, hidden feeding behavior, and protected egg and pupal stages. Improper timing of application, failure to treat the proper plant parts, and inadequate spray coverage are also common mistakes and can be more important in influencing the effectiveness of treatment than choosing which pesticide to apply. Before using a pesticide, learn more about your specific plant situation and the biology of your pest species. Often you will learn chemical control cannot be effective until the next season when new plant growth develops. If insecticides are used, they will only be partially effective and must be combined with appropriate cultural practices and conservation of natural enemies. Greenhouse thrips is an exception; because it is sluggish and feeds in groups on exposed plant parts, thoroughly applying most any insecticide will kill this species.

Narrow-range oil (Sunspray, Volck), azadirachtin (Safer BioNeem), neem oil (Green Light Garden Safe), pyrethrins combined with piperonyl butoxide (Garden Safe Brand Multi-purpose Garden Insect Killer, Spectracide Garden Insect Killer), and (at least for greenhouse thrips) insecticidal soaps (Safer), can be somewhat effective for temporary reduction of thrips populations if applied when thrips are present and damage first appears. These materials have the benefit of allowing at least a portion of the natural enemy populations to survive because they do not leave toxic residues. Sprays must be applied to thoroughly cover susceptible plant tissue, such as new leaf growth and buds. On plants with a history of severe, unacceptable damage, begin treatment early when thrips or their damage is first observed. Repeat applications (usually 5 to 10 days apart, depending on temperature) are usually required because these insecticides only kill newly hatched thrips and recently emerged adults.

Other insecticides for thrips include spinosad (Conserve, Green Light Lawn & Garden Spray Spinosad, Monterey Garden Insect Spray) and (available only to licensed pesticide applicators) abamectin (Avid). These materials are derived from beneficial microbes and have low to moderate adverse impact on natural enemies. Abamectin and spinosad should be applied no more than once or twice a year, and can be more effective against thrips than the previously listed insecticides. The beneficial fungus Beauveria bassiana (BotaniGard) can be applied to commercial landscapes but is not available for use in home gardens or residential landscapes.

With most thrips species, eggs are protected within plant tissue and prepupae and pupae are in the soil and will not be killed. No pesticide treatment will restore the appearance of injured tissue; plants will remain damaged until leaves drop, injury is pruned off, or new unblemished fruit is produced.

For ornamental nonfood plants, a licensed pesticide applicator can use the systemic organophosphate insecticide acephate (Orthene), but acephate can be highly toxic to natural enemies and it commonly causes spider mites to become abundant and damage plants within a few weeks after its application. Another systemic insecticide, imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control, Merit) provides some suppression of foliage-feeding thrips only, but it is also toxic to some natural enemies of thrips. Avoid the use of organophosphate insecticides (e.g., malathion), carbamates (carbaryl), or pyrethroids (e.g., cyfluthrin, fluvalinate, and permethrin) because all these materials are highly toxic to natural enemies, can cause dramatic increases in spider mite populations, and are not particularly effective against most thrips.

Greenhouse Thrips
Greenhouse thrips infests many perennial plants, usually those with harder leaves. It occurs primarily on the underside of leaves, on touching fruit clusters, and on plant parts that touch each other. Greenhouse thrips is a sluggish species with adults that tend not to fly. Individuals feed in groups and populations usually begin in a limited part of the plant and spread slowly, so pruning off colonies can be effective if the undersides of leaves on susceptible plants are regularly inspected to allow early detection and removal of new infestations. In addition to the materials listed above for the control of thrips on ornamental nonfood plants, greenhouse thrips is readily controlled with thorough application of contact sprays such as oil or pyrethrins (plus piperonyl butoxide) to the underside of infested leaves where it feeds. However, because populations can rapidly resurge, repeat applications may be necessary. Even though it is easier to control temporarily with pesticides than other thrips, greenhouse thrips also often has effective natural enemies, so it is important to assess whether spraying is warranted and to select materials that are least toxic to natural enemies.

Megaphragma mymaripenne is an important parasite in coastal avocado, often killing about 25 to 50 percent of greenhouse thrips eggs. Parasitized eggs develop a relatively large round hole, usually in the middle of the egg blister, where the Megaphragma mymaripenne adult emerged. When a greenhouse thrips emerges, part of the egg shell is often visible at the side of the egg blister.

Another parasitic wasp, Thripobius semiluteus, that attacks only greenhouse thrips has been effective in controlling this pest in greenhouses and southern California avocado orchards. There is no information on the effectiveness of Thripobius in landscapes. Observe whether any greenhouse thrips larvae are parasitized and, if Thripobius is present, conserve parasites whenever possible. The tiny, black and yellowish female Thripobius lays its eggs in young thrips nymphs. Parasitized thrips become swollen around the head, and about 2 weeks before the wasp's emergence, the parasitized larvae turn black, in contrast to the pale color of unparasitized greenhouse thrips larvae. Unlike healthy black mature thrips, the black parasitized larvae are smaller and do not move. Thripobius develops from egg to adult in about 3 weeks when temperatures average 70°F.

 

[TheAnswer1776]

Sooo Nice!!

Thanks brother!!

Thrips are tough buggers. I have never dealt with them in grow room environment just in the outside world. I am attaching info from the UC Davis site. It will give you some ideas. Keep the Faith!

Thanks for the great info Moustache, that was very informative. I must say after two applications of a homemade soap/oil/water combo, they seem to be disappearing. We shall see!

 

[wowtestdrive]

Love our new gear man! Plants are looking good too!

If I ever heard back about this medical card then I will soon be shopping for this C.A.P. ballast and a similar fan!

Keep it up sir

 

[TheAnswer1776]

Love our new gear man! Plants are looking good too!

If I ever heard back about this medical card then I will soon be shopping for this C.A.P. ballast and a similar fan!

Keep it up sir

So far I am very impressed with all the light equipment I purchased. The CAP ballast is extremely quiet and runs really cool! Soon I will have pics of the cloning, as I plan to take some cuttings tommorow.

 

[TheAnswer1776]

My four girls were starting to get crowded after four weeks in the system, so I decided to go ahead and tranplant the Roadrunner and Power Kush to there own 5 gal. buckets.

I had purchased four lowes buckets last week in preparation and I already had an extra dual outlet air pump.

I used my 5" netcup to draw a circle, then used a utility knife to cut it out.

Then I cut my hole for the air supply line. I noticed a lip on these buckets and took advantage of it, by placing the hole behind it. This way it will block the light.

 

[TheAnswer1776]

Ok, now they are ready for transplant, fully nuted(450 ppm) and PH'd(6.0).

The Power Kush has some pretty good roots!!

I know they will be happy, so much more room to stretch out!!

And my two Wonder Women...

In the veg room I am running a 200 Watt 6500K and four 85 Watt 5000K= 540 WATTS!!

 

[2hiegh4u]

Ok, now they are ready for transplant, fully nuted(450 ppm) and PH'd(6.0).

The Power Kush has some pretty good roots!!

I know they will be happy, so much more room to stretch out!!

And my two Wonder Women...

In the veg room I am running a 200 Watt 6500K and four 85 Watt 5000K= 540 WATTS!!

beautiful man i wish i could run that many watts. hows your electric bill? how many wats in your flower room?

 

[TheAnswer1776]

beautiful man i wish i could run that many watts. hows your electric bill? how many wats in your flower room?

I am running a 600 watt HPS in the flower room and my electric bill is about $150-170 a month with A/C or heat going too. Electric prices are pretty decent around here.

 

[2hiegh4u]

I am running a 600 watt HPS in the flower room and my electric bill is about $150-170 a month with A/C or heat going too. Electric prices are pretty decent around here.

you have both running rite now? not to get personal but whats minimum wage were you are

 

[Stgeneziz]

I am running a 600 watt HPS in the flower room and my electric bill is about $150-170 a month with A/C or heat going too. Electric prices are pretty decent around here.

Wow, lucky you, mine averages around 400-600 depending on the time of year! Btw, your plants are gonna love the separate buckets, those are exactly what I use for my moms. Are those 6" net pots? I need to get more and I think I'm done with the 3 inchers.

 

[TheAnswer1776]

you have both running rite now? not to get personal but whats minimum wage were you are

Yep, the 540 watts of CFL is 24/0 and the 600 watt HPS is 12/12 and I keep the A/C or heat on as needed to keep the rooms around 72 degrees. Minimum wage here is $7.25 an hour!!

Wow, lucky you, mine averages around 400-600 depending on the time of year! Btw, your plants are gonna love the separate buckets, those are exactly what I use for my moms. Are those 6" net pots? I need to get more and I think I'm done with the 3 inchers.

They are the 5 inch netpots. I like them better, as they hold the plants in place much better.

 

[Roseman]

I need to use those 5 inch cups in the buckets. Those 3.5 inchers are too small.
I finish my Deep Water Culture Tutorial today, (link in my signature). Look at it when you get a chance, from seed to harvest!

 

[Stgeneziz]

Yep, the 540 watts of CFL is 24/0 and the 600 watt HPS is 12/12 and I keep the A/C or heat on as needed to keep the rooms around 72 degrees. Minimum wage here is $7.25 an hour!!



They are the 5 inch netpots. I like them better, as they hold the plants in place much better.

I'm going with the bigger ones too, I hate tipping net pots! Right now in my closet I have a nice bunch of miscellaneous weights on my net pots to keep my plants up!

 

[TheAnswer1776]

Hey everyone, I've got a little update. My plants are loving the buckets! I am going to move the Roadrunner into the flower room tommorow, as it has already started to flower! The Power Kush is a little droopy, but I think it got to close to the 200 watt cfl. They are all around 200 PPM with Botanicare nutes. I have got my aero cloner all cleaned up and ready to go. I just have to wait for my order to get here with my second cycle timer and then it's time for clonefest 2010!!

I topped the Power Kush and both Wonder Woman and new growth appeared on the next day!

 

[TheAnswer1776]

I also harvested my two Church mother plants(was four but I discarded the two runts), that have been through every imaginable disaster!!! They were continually sick after being burnt by FF Open Sesame at 1/4 strength!! Then they had bugs and that was the final straw!! The salvagable buds had 90% cloudy trichs with a few amber and a few clear, so I went ahead and chopped them down. The only reason I didn't wait is because they still had some thrips(bugs) on the leaves and I wanted to sanitize the flower room before moving the Roadrunner. I really just wanted those plants out of my site! It's time to move on! I did manage to get some decent buds and alot if underbud that didn't fully develop, but are covered in trichs. You know what that means, HASH!!! Once again my Iphone camera sucks and the buds don't look to great. There are alot more red hairs and fuzziness in real life.

These are the main buds from one plant.....and one of the lp's I just nabbed from the local record shop!

 

[TheAnswer1776]

 

[TheAnswer1776]