Stoned4daze61
New Member
Re: teSmp's 400w White Widow's + Soil & DWC Lollipops - BPN
I use a hygrometer. I place my buds in mason jars to cure after drying along with a hygrometer. It measures the moisture content in the air, and works very well in properly drying your buds. It takes the guess work out of the equation and helps me feel safe knowing my buds are dry enough to not worry about the risk of mold. If you ever have any bud that is too dry and crumbles like you mentioned in your post then put a fresh little nug in the jar or some sort of fruit peel to add more moisture to the buds. I prefer orange peels. Here is a post quoted from a drying/curing thread that initially helped me. I use the Caliber III hygrometer, the same mentioned in the post. Drying your bud slower will result in a better tasting smoother smoke then quicker dried bud. Optimal drying conditions are 65-70 degrees, 55% humidity and your buds should take 1-3 weeks to be fully dry and ready for curing
how do you work out what the perfect dryness is when drying a bud, over the years ive smoked all sorts some that sprinkles to dust when you break it off and ive had some where it just squashes and clumps together when you try and break it off the bud, so clearly their the extremes at either end of the scale, i know the difference is the weight, but how does the taste and smell compare from say a really dry bud to a slightly sticky damp bud, some growers are more bothered in profit where i am and not in quality but im growing my own so want the best i can, ive read about hang drying which is what i done years ago but i never cured it, but i think ill be doing that this time as it sound like it stops the buds drying out to much and makes them smoke and taste a whole lot better,
I use a hygrometer. I place my buds in mason jars to cure after drying along with a hygrometer. It measures the moisture content in the air, and works very well in properly drying your buds. It takes the guess work out of the equation and helps me feel safe knowing my buds are dry enough to not worry about the risk of mold. If you ever have any bud that is too dry and crumbles like you mentioned in your post then put a fresh little nug in the jar or some sort of fruit peel to add more moisture to the buds. I prefer orange peels. Here is a post quoted from a drying/curing thread that initially helped me. I use the Caliber III hygrometer, the same mentioned in the post. Drying your bud slower will result in a better tasting smoother smoke then quicker dried bud. Optimal drying conditions are 65-70 degrees, 55% humidity and your buds should take 1-3 weeks to be fully dry and ready for curing
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.