A rest from harvesting for sure! I'm done for at least three months. Two seeds in peat this morning...autos both, so easy harvests no matter what.
Strawberry Cough? Yes Please! LOS Grown
- Thread starter StoneOtter
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- #622
Good morning. I was relieved to see her happy this morning after the first dose of Lacto. I saw frost developing that wasn't yesterday and her few battered leaves are standing tall. She enjoyed her new critter brew. That's a relief, new things are spooky. Back to watering every other day. I used something new in the aact that might have made it take longer between waterings. Humes Garden Blend. Here's what they say:
- "A custom blend of soluble humate, kelp, and yucca, combining the attributes of these 3 elements into a synergistic soluble powder. Humes Organic Gardening Blend helps improve soils ability to retain, process, and release moisture and nutrients, making them more available to plants when they need them, and is a source of naturally occurring plant hormones and nutrients."
That may address the water timing changes I have now since using it. I'll see where the balance lies and keep her hydrated for the big finish. Buds look on schedule or better as I see it today as size goes. Frost might be better! We have 3 weeks at least to go with any luck. I'm getting used to seeing the deadening leaves now. They're almost gone so there's more bud than dead leaves to see. It's about time! That was hard to witness. Now to get them to triple in size and I'll be a happy camper.
@Emilya how often do you apply lacto to soil in pots?
- "A custom blend of soluble humate, kelp, and yucca, combining the attributes of these 3 elements into a synergistic soluble powder. Humes Organic Gardening Blend helps improve soils ability to retain, process, and release moisture and nutrients, making them more available to plants when they need them, and is a source of naturally occurring plant hormones and nutrients."
That may address the water timing changes I have now since using it. I'll see where the balance lies and keep her hydrated for the big finish. Buds look on schedule or better as I see it today as size goes. Frost might be better! We have 3 weeks at least to go with any luck. I'm getting used to seeing the deadening leaves now. They're almost gone so there's more bud than dead leaves to see. It's about time! That was hard to witness. Now to get them to triple in size and I'll be a happy camper.
@Emilya how often do you apply lacto to soil in pots?
- Thread starter
- #623
Happy Friday!
I've been getting ready to fire up the new rig. One of the things I did was look at the ph of the soil I'll be using. It's second run. The ph is around 5. What I read is it should be 6.2 to 7. It's been cooking for 2 months and I've checked it and found it in the zone a few weeks ago at 6.4. I used a stick probe as prescribed by the Rev. author of the soil. I used Roots 707 as my base. It's Peat based and I'm reading peat beat based soil can drop ph over time. I'm jammed up here and I don't know what to do.
Anybody know what to do here? I'd like to save this soil if I can.
I've been getting ready to fire up the new rig. One of the things I did was look at the ph of the soil I'll be using. It's second run. The ph is around 5. What I read is it should be 6.2 to 7. It's been cooking for 2 months and I've checked it and found it in the zone a few weeks ago at 6.4. I used a stick probe as prescribed by the Rev. author of the soil. I used Roots 707 as my base. It's Peat based and I'm reading peat beat based soil can drop ph over time. I'm jammed up here and I don't know what to do.
Anybody know what to do here? I'd like to save this soil if I can.
I'd start by doing a slurry test rather than a probe test. It's what soil engineers use.
I do it with a tablespoon of soil in 8 ounces of distilled water, not tap or RO. Shake it every 15 minutes for an hour and let it sit for another hour. Then test the pH of the water with a calibrated pH meter.
Here is the "official" way from the Hanna Instruments Blog
How to Test Soil Using the Slurry Method
• Gather some soil from the test area.
• Take the homogeneous sample and add equal parts of soil and distilled or deionized (DI) water in a 1:1 ratio. So, for 25 grams of soil you would add 25 mL of water.
• Stir the sample for 5 seconds.
• Let it sit for 15 minutes.
• Start stirring the sample again after 15 minutes, and take your measurement.
I do it with a tablespoon of soil in 8 ounces of distilled water, not tap or RO. Shake it every 15 minutes for an hour and let it sit for another hour. Then test the pH of the water with a calibrated pH meter.
Here is the "official" way from the Hanna Instruments Blog
How to Test Soil Using the Slurry Method
• Gather some soil from the test area.
• Take the homogeneous sample and add equal parts of soil and distilled or deionized (DI) water in a 1:1 ratio. So, for 25 grams of soil you would add 25 mL of water.
• Stir the sample for 5 seconds.
• Let it sit for 15 minutes.
• Start stirring the sample again after 15 minutes, and take your measurement.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
its not like the peat breaks down immediately... you should be able to get a grow or two out of that soil before it becomes an issue, and even then a good flush will get most of that out of there. I just shy away from a lot of peat in my soils because once soil hits the door, it gets used over and over and over again... but I am in a constant state of composting too, and that helps a lot. You should be fine for now but the 707 would not have been my first choice. Look into mixing some FFOF into it 50/50 on your next run to up the humus component a bit and I don't think pH is going to be a problem for the microbes.
- Thread starter
- #626
That'll make me feel better about trusting equipment. The unit I used is supposed to be the one to have but how do I know.? I'll let you know. Thanks!
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- #627
This is just what I was needing! Thanks! Hehe Gonna need a bigger barrell! Seems like I always need more soil. So if I go 50/50, next recharge with FFOF would I leave out the fresh coco and some perlite?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Even the FFOF includes a little bit of coco, so I would not add any extra... but that is just me, there are no rules here. I seem to always be adding perlite to fluff up the soil, but I am going to start adding pumice to my soils instead. I think it will hold up a little longer, and it brings a volcanic piece to the soil too as it breaks down. Its just a visual thing, so I have no measurements to go by, but I try to estimate about 20% perlite in my mixes.
- Thread starter
- #629
I'm seeing diversity. Someone used unsalted peanut shells the other day ground up. Pumice huh? I have to read up on that. I think Van Stank mentioned he uses it.
@FelipeBlu uses pumice as well.
Hi gang!
Pumice has a high CEC (~75meq/100g), so it will hold a lot of cations for the plant’s future use. You should keep this in mind if you fertigate with a nutrient solution containing an abundance of NH4, K, Ca, or Mg. An over accumulation is possible.
Pumice is known for aerating a soil, but it can actually hold 4 times its weight in water. Careful watering is necessary to prevent a waterlogged condition.
Pumice drains well but tends to drain less well after a couple of years in use. However, drainage is never impeded to the extent that it becomes a problem.
The problem with pumice, and perlite too, is that a lot of growers use too little. Anything less than 50% is a little like raisins in oatmeal.
And the mine deal fell through, Shed.
Pumice has a high CEC (~75meq/100g), so it will hold a lot of cations for the plant’s future use. You should keep this in mind if you fertigate with a nutrient solution containing an abundance of NH4, K, Ca, or Mg. An over accumulation is possible.
Pumice is known for aerating a soil, but it can actually hold 4 times its weight in water. Careful watering is necessary to prevent a waterlogged condition.
Pumice drains well but tends to drain less well after a couple of years in use. However, drainage is never impeded to the extent that it becomes a problem.
The problem with pumice, and perlite too, is that a lot of growers use too little. Anything less than 50% is a little like raisins in oatmeal.
And the mine deal fell through, Shed.
So sorry to hear that Felipe! New retirement plan is in order then?
LOL Working a mine is no retirement!
I plan to spend my days growing fine plants.
I plan to spend my days growing fine plants.
The high CEC is why I use perlite in my hempy pots.
- Thread starter
- #635
Hello FelipeBlu. CEC, I'm finding, is a new to me thing, going to be on my mind now. Thanks!Hi gang!
Pumice has a high CEC (~75meq/100g), so it will hold a lot of cations for the plant’s future use. You should keep this in mind if you fertigate with a nutrient solution containing an abundance of NH4, K, Ca, or Mg. An over accumulation is possible.
Pumice is known for aerating a soil, but it can actually hold 4 times its weight in water. Careful watering is necessary to prevent a waterlogged condition.
Pumice drains well but tends to drain less well after a couple of years in use. However, drainage is never impeded to the extent that it becomes a problem.
The problem with pumice, and perlite too, is that a lot of growers use too little. Anything less than 50% is a little like raisins in oatmeal.
And the mine deal fell through, Shed.
- Thread starter
- #636
Soooo,
I did the test and got a ph of 7.1! There's a huge difference. I have to say that I left the dirt probe in for 24 hours and it's not supposed to be longer than ten minutes or so. May have busted it. (stoner move) I'm relieved now I have good data. It's at least at the end of the spectrum. If there's a drop coming it'll be from up there.
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- #637
Hi, I started a new journal today. I'll be growing 4 Dark Devil Auto"s in the brand spankin new Mars Hydro Tent Powered by a Mars Hydro TSW2000 LED light. Much thanks @SmokeSara and Mars Hydro! This combo is going to grow some beauties! I'd like to invite everyone to come and check it out. Today is seeds in pots day. Thanks A "Mar"sian Darkness Falls in Otterville
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Gonna check out now! Thanks for heads up! 
Well my advice is to be not to worry about the pH of the soil. Soil pH fluctuates over time. The whole point of doing LOS is so that all your billions of helpers do the pHing for you. I have seen my soil fluctuate from the low-mid 5's to the high 7's in a matter of days. I finally retired any thoughts of trying to maintain a pH in living soil. The herd is going to do what its going to do regardless of what I want them to do. Ain't no one in nature running around adjusting pH in soil. Mother nature has the herd do that for her.
When your soil is healthy, the roots are going to be in constant contact with the herd and they will be trading exudes for work. Your job is to make sure the herd stays healthy and happy. Their job is to make sure the plant stays happy and healthy. Stop trying to do the herds work. They have been doing it since the dawn of time.....you have been doing it what? A year or two? Go grab a book and relax during that time you would normally pick up a tool to try and do their work.
However, if you insist on doing their work, good luck trying to maintain and manipulate the food soil web! My best advice is find a quality LOS mix, mix it together and cook it and then get out of the way.
Edit: Please note there is no sarcasm or sharp undertone to those comments (which kind of came through after I re-read the post) and I apologize if it came off that way to you or anyone else Otter. Flair was for effect, not for badgering you brother!
- Thread starter
- #640
I remember reading you use roots for a base too, and no problems with the peat component making the soil drop into a place where it wont work over time huh? That's fantastic! I'm reacting to things I've read I think, and I don't know the parameters where it's ok to be. Now I'm glad I've read what you have to say Van. I have less than two grows in LOS with plenty to learn. Appreciate the input!