Top and Fim technique before LST
In addition to simply low stress training a plant from the start you can also create multiple tops. These additional tops can then be trained in the same fashion as only Lst'ing.
First off there's the topping. This is where you will be cutting the stem above a selected node. For photoperiods it's advisable to wait until you have 4 or 5 nodes and then cut above the 3rd.
Make sure to sterilize your cutting instrument first, number one rule. Next determine where you'll be "topping" the stem. Let's get a look at what I'm talking about.
As you can see I've got 5 established nodes, including the first leafstems. This particular plant is starting to lean already above the 3rd node.
I was thinking of topping it here instead, at the 4th node. But I'd like to avoid a crooked trunk to the stem. So let's make the cut...
Here's the cut stem of plant. Notice the 45° angle I cut at. This is to prevent water or dirt or whatever, from sitting on the wound. It helps the water slip off and not pool.
You can see the little tiny nubs that will become your new main stems. They will grow fast since they are still the pinnacle of your plant. In a few days they will have emerged.
This is the remaining portion of the stem. What you could do is wait until you have 6 or 7 nodes and then top the plant. In this way you could trim the cut stalk and attempt to clone it. I'm not doing this for these test plants but it is very feasible for one to do so.
That wraps up the initial topping for Lst'ing later on. Hope that shows you enough that you may experiment this technique on your own. Remember practice makes perfect, you may not get it perfect the first time but the effects on your plant will be the same. Don't forget these instructions deal strictly with photoperiod plants. Autos are a different animal all together. I will do another tutorial specific to auto training, since they have such short veg times.
The FIM technique is also a way to create multiple tops. It is very similar to topping, and it is topping except... F@#% I missed. If your like me to can't wait to do things (torture) to your plants. Sometimes the node is barely clear of the top's tip when you feel the urge to cut it. This when I usually FIM. But let's have a look at what I'm trying to explain.
Here's the plant in question, can you see the little leafs that have just been produced from the stem' tip. There are many smaller leaves within this "creation chamber" of the plant. Note that this will take longer to "reboot" the plant, the top may be shocked for a few days and I had my tips turn red some from hence shock.
When you cut this part of the top it may create 4 or more tops. Depending on how many of the unseen leafs you have cut off.
This is what I cut off. See the base of the stem is wadded together, I could have taken a little more off but, this is what you want to see.
The stem tip remaining will grow back slowly into any number of tops. Meanwhile your lower shoots will be trying to get to be dominant. You'll need to train them to stay below or level with the fimmed top.
Again it's important to remember that this applies only to photoperiod plants. I would not recommend using the FIM technique on autoflowering plants. It causes too much delay in growth so that it will likely hinder harvest weights.
This is the first version of the lesson plan for topping and FIMing. Let me know what you think. I'm sure I missed a few things, so don't be afraid to help me add to this, Thank you.
KiG
cheers
have some reps
alas no feedings today 
. I can't believe she needed a feeding so early in life, needy little b@#^%
Intermission 
Intermission
