The bold part is what makes me think N by her picture. This is just my opinion I have been reading your journal for a little while and have mu respect for you and your growing abilities.
Sqwheels, you are 420% correct that the plant needs N, P & K (and a bunch of other elements) throughout it's entire life cycle. But, at different stages in its growth, it requires more, or less, of each element. This is why your Micro and Bloom formulas have different N, P, K ratios, and by mixing them both in different amounts, you can accomodate the plant through the entire life cycle.
Yep, I'm understanding the nutes macro/micro better now, but the nutes I use (GH floranova, grow/bloom) are only 1 part...1 bottle of grow, and 1 bottle of bloom, all the macros/micros are included in each in differing amounts of course. No options to mix them in different amounts, only ppms/ecs, up/down being different depending on how much I add...1/2t adds 300, 1t adds 600, 1-1/2t adds 900 like that.
Now, as for your yellowing, the intervenal banding really sounds like a Magnesium deficiency. When it's an N deficiency, the leaves tend to yellow uniformly, not just between the veins.
I was uning this...N reference
I thought this was N, pic 1&2 are from last week...1-30 and pic 3 is from day 21, just before I defoliated...most of the big fans looked like #3 and I took them off anyway
and this Mg reference
In these next 2 pics (1 of OG seedling popped 12-27, and 1 from weeks ago of WW mom II)I thought this was a Mg def and fed/sprayed with a little epsom, WW has recovered nicely, OG has shown slight improvment
Both N and Mg are "mobile" elements, which means the plant can move them from one location to another, when they're needed. This also means that, in both cases, signs will typically show lower on the plant (older growth), since it will move those elements to support the new growth.
When you defoliate age--older/younger and location--top/bottom is kinda mute...Follow my crazy thought for a sec... on my plants right now the oldest leaves are the ones I left when I defoliated? even tho they are mostly at the top (those are the ones that didn't have enough of a stem to get ahold of so I didn't pinch them off). That seems to make sense to me because after defoliation (remember I was brutal) the leaves I didn't remove (little ones with no stem, mostly at the top and close to all the bud sites) are bigger now, and thus the oldest, but there are younger leaves now lower on the plants, and these new/younger/smaller leaves are also showing this same interveinal chlorosis. I'll post new pics with tomorrows update.
If you haven't seen it yet, this link is very helpful and is different than the "pictorial":
Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
I haven't, but will go look--thanks
The first three items, discuss what we're talking about:
So, by your description, and the pics I've seen, I remain convinced it's a Mg issue and adding some more mag should help. (note: your leaf margins look turnd up, too!)
I'll check this out closer after light on tomorrow and comment further in my update.
I'd try to get the plant healthy before I did another "heavy" defoliation, but if you want to remove a leaf or two to open up a couple of bud sites, I'm sure it won't be an issue.
The only defoliating I'll be doing from here on out will be light related. I think I did a maximum job @ 21 days...they really don't need it again.
Main focus should be getting the plant healthy so it can focus it's energy on flowering and not trying to heal itself!
Amen
good jobMr Krip, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you on this one. I have a hard time with these two N and Mg. By looking at her picture you can see it is starting at the tip and working its way back to the node. I copied this from Plant Pictorial
Have read this, back when I first started researching nutes/water stuff, as well as the one Mr.K referenced in his post, I just didn't go check it out before I replied to him. They are both good sources of info...thank you.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.
I figured an N def at this stage is pretty normal for all the reasons that have been mentioned here. I haven't "done" anything to the girls because of that...I'm pretty much just "observing" and making only very small changes when the problem is obvious and I'm confident I can do something to fix it...I don't want to over love them...Because I love them sooo much
Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element
Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell... the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that's not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn't show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolour and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
See my reply to Mr.K for more on this...
Thanks so much for all your input
I had a thought... You can tell me what you think.
If it were me, and I wasn't sure, I might try foliar feeding with epsom. If done properly,early morning I think, before lights come on, and making sure you get the undersides of the leaves...then the symptoms should improve right away if it's a Mg deficiency...
Kind of a Dr. House approach to treat, and if the patient improves then that was the problem, but I think a foliar feeding with epsom wouldn't hurt, and would show you very quickly if Mg is the problem, and removes lockout from the equation.
Can someone tell me how I can change the name of my journal...
Sqwheels' Perpetual 2L Hempy + Moms
Seems to fit what I'm doing better
Thanks
