Skybound's Journal

Agreed! :rollit::bongrip::ganjamon:
 
ilikemsticky said:
hey sky just stopping by before I hit the road just want to say good luck in your quest for the finest hydro weed you can grow ill be checking in every now an then take her slow bud!:)
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Thanks for stopping by on ur way out the door. Have an awesome time man!
 
Hey Skybound I thought I’d ask this question here since you’re always going on about purple stems. One of my three PC phenos was already prone to purple stems. A bit premature but I’m getting the feeling all the plants in the grow are looking more purple-stemmed now that I’ve adjusted my feeding routine with Hydro Buddy.
There’s been a few ups and downs that last month and I’m still fine tuning things so I’m not worried about it. I’m going to go over my numbers in HB more too.
Just wondering what you think would be the likely culprit to cause this purple ?
Purple stems

Purple stems

 
Highya Weeze,

I remember from reading Doc Bud's journals he attributed the purple pettioles to a shortage of phosphorus. I grow outside in soil, so I don' see that, but once. Soft rock phosphate would address that.
When I started growing outdoors (3 years ago) I made a mineral mix (per Doc Bud) of 6 parts calcium carbonate, 5 parts soft rock phosphate, and 3 parts gypsum. I spread some in the spring before planting to insure minerals are adequate. Thin it's compost, and a few homemade nutes foe microbes and plant auxins and hormones. Still a work in progress, but works for me. Cheers
 
Yeah, I'm with Bode on that being P def. My PC's all show that def too, but because EVERY single reference I come across, they all have the P in the 30-45 ppm range, and I'm already up to 65 with intent of going higher, but I will be adding ammonium phosphate as a secondary source of N today, and I wanted to observe the effect of elevated NH4 before committing to upping my P again. IMO, with bottled nutes, it'll be easy to up your N or K, but not so much the P. As is at 65ppm though, my petioles are never that dark red and more resemble a half green sweet apple which tells me I'm right at the divide between deficient and adequate, so maybe 70ppm is ideal?

Edit - b/c all resources suggest P @30-45ppm, I am skittish to up mine and will only do so in baby steps so not to kill my crop as I experiment.
 
I remember that phosphorus didn't move around in the plant. Once there, it stayed put. If the root exudates call for phosphorus, the bacteria would assemble to munch a bunch of something to excrete phosphorus in a form the plant can intake. I have no idea how to get the phosphorus into a lady in hydro. Sorry
 
Here's an excerpt from Hydroponics A Practical Guide for Soilless Growers;

Function
Biochemically, P plays a key role in the plant’s energy transfer system (“high
energy” bond compounds, i.e., adenosine triphosphate [ATP], adenosine
diphosphate [ADP], and phosphocreatine, which release energy for plant
metabolic activity); thus, P deficiency slows growth considerably. Phosphorus
is the main constituent of nucleic acid structures as well as a component of
membrane phospholipids.

Deficiency Symptoms
The first symptom of P deficiency is slowed growth. As the deficiency intensifies,
the older leaves develop a deep purple coloring. A similar discoloration
can also be brought on by cool temperatures, either in the rooting media or
surrounding atmosphere. Since P uptake by plants is somewhat temperature
affected, a moderate P deficiency with accompanying symptoms may be
induced by cool temperatures; the deficiency symptoms disappear when
temperatures return to the optimum for active plant growth. Phosphorus
deficiency can be easily detected by means of a plant analysis (see pages
319–324); deficiency occurs in most plants when the leaf concentration is less
than 0.20% of the dry matter. A tissue test for P may also be used to confirm
a suspected deficiency (see pages 324–325).
 
Dankman_420 said:
Looks good over here sky! I saw your net set up. I had a area at my old house I had hooks that screwed into the wall I used. Worked well and cheap for the zon. I also use the OTG app for my microscope. I need to rig up a better stand though, mine is too flimsy
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I use my scope like it's a stethoscope where I'm all over the place with it. I just need mine to help me get an accurate look at the progress of things for planning chop time.
 
This PC is just on the underside of deficient of P and Ca. I'm all for upping both, but I've already exceeded my EC comfort zone so as I think about what I want to elevate, I'm also thinking about what I can decrease. For now, I'm just targeting for lower amount of gallons that what I use to dilute the blend, but I'd much rather have a formula that is straight up, with no work around fixes. Maybe I could reduce K by like 5% and N by a couple percent? FYI, other petioles are half green and half red, so literally just a couple more ppm of P should do it. Ca is much trickier.
Calcium uptake is dependent on its concentration in the rooting medium
and rates of transpiration as the Ca2+ ion is passively transported in the
transpirational stream.
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Calcium deficiency or excess occurs in the plant when in the nutrient
solution an imbalance with the K+ and Mg2+ cations exists. In nutrient solution
formulas with the NH4+ ion as the major source of N, this ion will act like K
and become a part of the cation balance, and therefore, affect the uptake of
Ca from the nutrient solution.

One of the results of NH4+ toxicity is the breakdown of the vascular tissue
in the main stem of the plant that affects cell wall integrity, a Ca deficiency
induced by a cation imbalance in the nutrient solution.
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Because I just now started intentionally adding NH4+, I did not want to change anything else in my feed. I want to get a really good feel about how things go with the ammonium. It's needed, but in hydro, plants will just keep taking it up until they die and nobody wants to do that, especially me. Right now, my ammonium makes up 10% of my total N.

Cal and P Def.jpg
 
Highya Sky,

I was just remembering another thing from Doc Bud's journals. He used to switch between NH4 and NO3 during flowering. I can't remember if it was switch every week, or every two weeks. Could have been between nitrogen feeding vegetation, and nitrogen feeding buds. I think that was the distinction, but not sure. Probably a little research would nail it down. Cheers
 
Bode said:
Highya Sky,

I was just remembering another thing from Doc Bud's journals. He used to switch between NH4 and NO3 during flowering. I can't remember if it was switch every week, or every two weeks. Could have been between nitrogen feeding vegetation, and nitrogen feeding buds. I think that was the distinction, but not sure. Probably a little research would nail it down. Cheers
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Cation = Pos
Anion = Neg

Based on how I interpret what I read, in soil the composition is mostly anionic as most of world's lands is anionic so from time to time, the cationic drench is applied to increase availability to the cat nutes, similar to a ph fluctuation. But I don't think this is an effect I will be able to recreate in hydro because the total nutrient solution (the res) has both anionic and cationic contained at the same time. The trick is to figure out the ideal balance between those two ends of the spectrum in the overall nutrient formulas which is still likely many months ahead of my learning curve. My understanding is that a decent NPK foliar spray with good organic amendments will in effect give the plants from above what I'm falling short of below in the roots. Here is a chart indicating the ionic balance and how much of each element is represented. I found it HERE, discussing about the NO3/NH4+ relationships. By adding ammonium to my feed, the fresh mix doesn't require nowhere near as much PH down as w/o the MAP which is awesome so far. I suspect the ideal ratio of NO3 to NH4 to be lower than 10%, but I figured 10 is a safe place to start.

Figre 6.jpg
 
Sounds like you're getting a handle on all this stuff, lol. Can't wait to see your ladies at harvest! Cheers
 
I like the way the wall nets kind of make it like a bowl of bud. I really wish she was bigger than 6 veg weeks when I put her in, but every bud looks like it's going to be rock hard. Though not yet blown away, I definitely notice an increase in growth from using triacontanol. The pic with the weird color and shade got 3 more veg weeks, plus the trai treatments from earlier in life, so she's much bigger, maybe twice the size? She's got about twice as many buds.

26 days.jpg
BOB2.jpg
bowl of bud.jpg
 
Seems like the nets working well for you Sky. she’s a real health plant :yummy:
 
Yeah, Sky, the one budded lady looks very nice. Doesn't look like they've been that long since you switched the lights, meaning they should be big fat buds! Cheers
 
Veg is about to explode, I wish I had more space to fill out. It's actually hard to keep kicking out 8-10 week veg plants which managing enough to select the best from to supply a new bloom space every 3 weeks with this little space. I wish I had twice as much to veg in. Good problems though, right?

Big Veg.jpg


I been meaning to ask for some opinions about the shark's dorsil fin growing out of that there stem. You guys think this might hermie on me, or that a straight up dude? It would explain more vigorous growth than the others, plus both the cuttings rooted in 6 days. I never saw nothing like that though. Who knows, I may have put too much triacontanol on it or something and it may have excited the party just a little too much.

hermie.jpg
 
Skybound said:
Veg is about to explode
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Those girls are in perfect health Sky, looking great :bravo:
Skybound said:
the shark's dorsil fin growing out of that there stem.
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I had a couple on my last outdoor grow of Elvis, it was empty inside and I left it till harvest and it didn’t develop seeds. I was unsure what caused it :passitleft:
 
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