Shot Adrenaline and Pakistan Ryder My First Journal

I cut Athena down last night and I figure I'll probably get 1/4 to a 1/2 oz from her. My new 100x scope works ok, but I will get one with a screen and camera soon. I've found them for like 60 bucks online and they look easier to operate. I discovered that trimming buds is my least favorite part of this process! I didn't weigh before hanging but I will post total dry weight for you guys before the budsgo into jars.
 
Okay guys I decided to germ the pixie punch auto, so I go ahead and get this 2 liter dwc kinda dialed in. I planted it straight into 40% FFOF with 60% perlite in the top of the 2 liter. The seed bank claims 5 weeks from start to finish, but I have to see that to believe it. The bank didn't have much more info, but I'll google it later. Dwc is supposed to be quicker, so maybe the 5 weeks is realistic. Google says it's an indica dominant, but there is no thc level info. Everything I have clicked on says 4 to 5 weeks from seed, but I am still a skeptic on that. I need a good ph meter now, which I plan to get in the next two weeks or so. I won't need the meter until I fire up the pump, which should be in a couple of weeks. I have a large piece of styrofoam on the bottom of the space that I will cut a hole in to house the 2 liter, and provide some shade for it.
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nice harvest,

with the dwc i dont think it will make an auto grow quicker, but it will allow it to grow bigger, grow time should be roughly the same, but with autos you need to remember that sometimes the returns are very small, as they are advertised as a sog style grow so 10 to 15g dry per auto is pretty normal with some strains, some autos start flowering at week 2 and others at week 4 onwards or anything between.

as for light schedules mentioned above i have tried them all, glr, 24-0,20-4,18-6 and 17-7, this time round i went 17-7 and the plants grew like crazy, i wont be using 20-4 and 24-0 again, plus with autos i found something very strange with the strain i grew,

i was growing kc45 auto,
under 24-0 and 20-4 it produced around 10 to 14g dry per auto and i grew plenty, i then had my grow room on 12-12 and decided to throw a few kc45 autos in as well, so they was 12-12 from seed to harvest, i was shocked at the results, under 24-0 and 20-4 it started flowering around week 3, and it was harvested at around 1ft high with tiny buds, under 12-12 it got just under 3ft high and produced just over 2oz per auto and took 3 to 4 weeks longer to grow, but the longer grow time was no biggy when i was getting 2oz per auto,

but it will vary from strain to strain, i am pretty confident in saying all plants benefit from a dark period including autos, i grew kc45s under 17-7 and all ended up over 1ft and the males finished around 2.5ft, well i still got a male now im collecting pollen from in the spare room, so it seems the kc45 autos benefits from a night period per 24 hours, so i was amazed by the huge differences in yields and growth with the different schedules,

i was always told to grow autos under 24-0 as they dont go into flower, well thats wrong, ive grown lots of autos under 24-0 and they tend to go into flower very early and produce very poor yields, i got simiar results under 20-4 so its tought to say which light schedule is best for autos,
but id say at the most id go with the 20-4 to be on the safe side as you dont know the strain so it could do very well under 20-4.

for photo plants id have to say glr is probably one of the best schedules ive used followed by 17-7 and 18-6, king is spot on with the root growth, ive seen the same tests done and 18-6 produced a lot more roots then 20-4 and 24-0 so the more roots you got the more the plant can take it and grow.

at night plants use their stored energy, they use this to send growth down to the roots, they also repair any damage done during the lights on hours, when the lights are off the plants also stretch to get back into the light, its the same thing the plant does when its in the shade, so a night period allows the roots to grow and also helps the plant get taller which means more nodes for more buds, so a dark period is important as far as im concerned.

its the same reason why plants stretch so much under 12-12, if you go from 24-0 to 12-12 then the plants will stretch like crazy for 2 weeks because their not used to the dark period, so some dark period will get the plants used to being in the dark and this will reduce stretch, if you used glr schedule for example then their is very little stretch at all, the plants start flowering pretty much strait away with no stretch as long as their mature enough
 
Good info don the lighting schedule is something I plan to change on the next grow. As I mentioned before, I only have one space I can use, so do you think it would affect my current grow if I put the new one in with them, then switch to 20/4 or 18/6? Or maybe go to 20/4 then 18/6 then switch to 12/12.
 
Thanks king, and thank you for the reps! Been cruising around here, subbing to grows similar to mine, so I can get better at this. I have learned a lot, both from you guys, and from trial and error, but I still have lots to learn, as do we all, I think.
 
Popcorn buds are already dry, only took two days, so now it's into the jar for them. Only 2 grams of popcorn, but will post total weight when the rest dries completely. I sampled some, and it's not too harsh, and gets me pretty stoned, nice head high with this strain. It's a sativa dominant, so no surprise there. I managed to find 2 green canning jars at a yard sale, they don't sell the colored jars anywhere these days, just the clear ones.
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the buds look great, well done, nice and frosty,

with the light schedules use what suits you best, some growers swear by 24-0 and say it produces the best growth, in my experience plants grown under 24-0 take longer to show sex and they tend to stay shorter than plants under other schedules,

20-4 is a good schedule to use, it gives the plant some night period for root growth and damage repairing plus some stretch, its not the best schedule for root growth how ever but this does not mean plants wont grow quick under this schedule,

18-6 is proven to be the best schedule for root growth, their was tests done on 3 clones with everything kept the same apart from the light schedule, 24-0 produced a lot less root growth over the time period, 20-4 produced root growth much better than 24-0, 18-6 produced the best root growth so clearly this proves that the night period proveds root growth, now to me a plant needs roots and the more roots it has the more nutrients it can take in and use, so in theory plants should grow better under 18-6 due to the root development been a lot better,

plus 18-6 is cheaper as your electric costs as lower and it also helps with temps as you can run the lights at night and have them off during the hottest part of the day,

so any light schedule will work, out of the lot id say gas lantern routine is the best and ill be using this once ive finished working with my own auto strain, i only stopped using glr because i grow autos, glr would be ok for the veg cycle of an auto but no good for flower as it would cause it to hermie.

so its really up to you what schedule you want to use, each grower will have a different idea of whats best so which ever fits your grow or you want to use then go for it, if you really wanted to you could compare the difference yourself, use one schedule for this grow and then another for the next grow, so say your using 24-0 or 20-4 at the minute then use that till you flip to 12-12, then next grow give 18-6 a try and then you will have some idea of what works best,

under 18-6 the plant stretches during the night period so i find the stretch helps with growth and produces more nodes as long as the light is good and their is no stretch due to heat problems or poor lighting,

you dont need to work the schedule down before you go to 12-12 you can just go from 24-0 and strait to 12-12 when you want to go to flower, but i think if i was using 24-0 then about 2 weeks before i wanted to go 12-12 id change to 18-6 for 2 weeks just so their is boost in root development and plus the plant wont stretch as much when flipped to 12-12.

so really go with what you think is best, but if you do change schedule dont keep changing or if you do make sure your giving less light, so dont change from 18-6 and go to 20-4 then drop to 12-12, that could cause problems but dont know for sure, but either stick with what your using now then flip to 12-12 when you ready, or if you was using 24-0 or 20-4 and wanted to drop it to 18-6 then its totally fine to do that,

theirs growers on here that use 17-7 and 16-8 and get great results, so clearly all schedules work and the less light you give over 24 hours means lower running costs but it dont mean you get less growth, if i thought 24-0 was the best schedule for my plants then id use it but i think 18-6 is perfect for me or 17-7 which is what i used last time,

but you also need to consider that some strains have been grown under 24-0 for several generations before the seeds are stable and then sold, so im not sure if plants climatise to the light schedules but the best thing you can do is see what works well for you,
with autos id stick with one schedule and see how it does, so 20-4 from start to harvest or if you have none autos growing and you want to flower them then it wont do any harm to finish the auto under 12-12,

hopefully ive not confused you,
but id say the fastest growth would be glr,

24-0 and 20-4 and 18-6 plus anything inbetween will grow the plants with no problems, i know under 24-0 their is a certain point in the day when the plants look droopy and are sort of doing their night time activity whiles its daylight so the tasts are still done but not to the same extent, for autos its a bit hit and miss at the minute, i got much better results using 12-12 from seed to harvest but that goes against everything ive been told about autos so ill run tests once ive got a few hundred auto seeds which will be after these next 2 autos have flowered and been harvested, then i can run tests with 3 or 4 light schedules and do it side by side and see what happens,

its your grow so go with what you think is best,
their is no side by side grows of the different light schedules, the only testing done was on root development with the same 3 clones, 18-6 produced a lot more root growth than 20-4 and 24-0, so to me this says that if the plant has got more roots then it can take in a whole lot more so the plant should be better off with more roots,

but their is only a 2 hour difference between 18-6 and 20-4 but the root growth was much more under 18-6, so i mean 19-5 might be a good schedule to use, ive just not been growing long enough to run any long term tests on plant development and growth under certain schedules, i know glr seemed to produce the most vigorous and rapid growth followed by 17-7 and 18-6, but your strains might show different results,
 
Medusa, the Pakistan Ryder, has been chopped, after a good look with the 100x scope. Her sample bud was very kind, with a sweet, kinda fruity aroma. The high is narcotic, couch lock for real, got me stuck for a bit. Here is her top bud, which is 5 grams wet, and I think it's beautiful.
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My hand is wrapped up, because of thumb surgery, so my buddy is helping me trim.
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I'll post more later, gotta get back to it.:thumb:
 
Trimming is finished, thanks to my buddy, and it looks like I'll get about a 1/2 oz with this one. Total dry weight on Athena was 12 grams, so not too bad, but looking to get more the next round. The closet looks pretty empty with only Shorty in there, wish she would hurry, so I can make some modifications. Medusa's buds are quite dense, but not as frosty as Athena, definitely looking forward to smoking her though. The next grow will probably feature UK cherry cheese x ak47 x skunk, and maybe an auto in dwc, if I can get it right in the month or so the pixie takes to grow.
 
Thanks KJC I will start a journal in the next few days, so maybe some of the dwc guys can assist me. Don Paul P will be a big help, since he uses the 2 liter method a lot, and I'm sure he won't mind helping. Here's a pic of the pixie sprout, she had some trouble shedding the seed shell, but I gently plucked it off for her. Thank you @indoorgrower it is some fire bro, can't wait til it's dry, and cured!
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glad to help my friend, i just planted a northern lights auto in the dwc, so that should sprout in the next few days then a few days after that the roots should be growing out the bottom of the top part so then it will go into the res and start with seedling stage nutes,

just go a bit weak the first feed and see how it looks, hopefully the plant will be big enough by the time its in the res to take the nutes, ive not had any issues following the --- feed schedule as its first feed is given as soon as you see the first set of true leaves forming, but the plant should be a week or 2 old before it goes into the res so the feeding schedule should be ok and their should be no problems with the nutes, just go easy the first feed or 2 then keep upping the dose,

so i shouldnt be their far behind your plant so will be interesting to see how they do, just keep the res cool, keep the res in the shade, you dont want any light shining on the res as this will slowly raise the temps, if the light is shining on it then cut some card up and place it over the res so the res is totally in the shade, that should keep temps down and keep the roots very happy,

ive found that dwc plants get bigger quicker, i dont think they would make an auto reach harvest quicker as i dont think it will affect the grow time, i think it will play a part in how big they got though,
 
also you know you pulled the seed shell off, well is their like a clear case over the seed leaves, sometimes if you pull the seed shell off you are left with like a membrane that is holding the seed leaves closed, if you still have this holding your leaves together then give it a spray with water and it should slowly split open, if not very gently try and pull it off using a tooth pick or sharp knife, but be careful as the stem is really easy to break at this stage so be gentle,

one of the reasons why the seed shell dont all off is due to the seed not be planted deep enough, usually the seed will come off before the sprout comes out the soil, but if its not planted deep enough then the seed shell will stay on as the stem and tap root grow, their have been times when ive lost plants due to them not been planted deep enough as they dont seem to grow properly and can sometimes give deformed leaves.
 
I was just about to spray the baby, and checked my email, my wife and I were smoking with the girls, and I was showing her the membrane you speak of. Good info though, I have to pluck them off of one girl before, now I will put em deeper.
 
cool no worries, its just if you leave the membrane on and you dont mist the plant then it can kill the plant as the seeds cant open,

growers who use paper towel method to germ have a similar problem so they usually spray the plants to keep the seed shell and skin soft so it falls off, but you will always have the odd seed that the shell stays on but if it happens a lot then its usualyl because its not planted deep enough, it also helps if you plant the seeds the right way up, the flat part on the seed should be facing up, thats the hinge where it opens, then the tap root grows out the other end and pushes the seed up, if its planted the wrong way round then sometimes the tap root grows up then has to twist to grow down,

so i try to plant mine with the flat spot facing upwards and i plant my seeds around 2 or 3cm deep at the most and i find that its deep enough to allow the shell to come off when its in the soil. but as long as your careful taking the shell off you should be ok, you just need to make sure its not taken off to early as it can make the plant die or be badly deformed for the first week or 2 of growth
 

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