Scaredeecat First Grow White Widow & BB, Magic Bud, Critical Jack, Moby Dick #2

Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

hi scaredecat'
first + rep and 5 stars
super grow, i tried bubbles for a week or to mine went to s***t in a few hours,doing hempy now,so far so good.btw thanks for stopping by my journal.I'm in for the duration.:smokin::smokin:
HH
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Keep up the good work scardeecat!

thanks green, it an addiction i have now:cool:

hi scaredecat'
first + rep and 5 stars
super grow, i tried bubbles for a week or to mine went to s***t in a few hours,doing hempy now,so far so good.btw thanks for stopping by my journal.I'm in for the duration.:smokin::smokin:
HH

thanks hypo hippy, its been quite the learning exsperience:reading420magazine:
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I agree with DF, cut them out. Not sure why you want to keep the herm, but go ahead and plant it outside it you want. What's the worst that could happen, it dies? Your cutting it out of your grow anyway. :goodluck:

It turns out to be really healthy and pollinates half the females growing within a quarter-mile? You forget that you looked at it earlier and make the mistake of visiting your girls without changing clothes and washing off first?

thanks rose, nature is nature, but i am still pissed at a seed company,first the white widow/big budda never germed and now the magic bud hermed:hmmmm: but i will move on, its not like i can do anything about it, what am i going to do take them to court:laughtwo::rofl: i sent them an email anyway.:)

Some times, especially when looking at "high-test" crosses, hermies just happen. Like crossing different types of dogs in order to get something "special," and then ending up with dogs that have health problems, shortened lives, certain undesirable traits, etc. In nature such things tend to disappear as natural selection happens, but trust the "hand of man" to muck things up now and then (and again and again). If you want to stack the deck in your favor, stick to landraces that haven't been "improved."

Why can't you smoke a herm if you don't leave it near your other plants. I am sure it is good to cook with as well. I guess I will smoke anything but herms still have buds.

Bud that is seeded early can finish early and therefore not be as potent. Also, some people appear to get headaches from smoking pollen. But yeah, a person could do that. Less than top-shelf bud would still be better than an empty shelf, I suppose.
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

It turns out to be really healthy and pollinates half the females growing within a quarter-mile? You forget that you looked at it earlier and make the mistake of visiting your girls without changing clothes and washing off first?



Some times, especially when looking at "high-test" crosses, hermies just happen. Like crossing different types of dogs in order to get something "special," and then ending up with dogs that have health problems, shortened lives, certain undesirable traits, etc. In nature such things tend to disappear as natural selection happens, but trust the "hand of man" to muck things up now and then (and again and again). If you want to stack the deck in your favor, stick to landraces that haven't been "improved."



Bud that is seeded early can finish early and therefore not be as potent. Also, some people appear to get headaches from smoking pollen. But yeah, a person could do that. Less than top-shelf bud would still be better than an empty shelf, I suppose.

thanks for the insight ts, i agree about the herms and strain tampering, i don't know what i will do with them yet but they are still alive and growing outside looks like they like it out there in the heat:yikes: but filtered sun light
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

the cj and md are lovin not shareing the nutes and are coming along nicely
ph at 6.2 this morning
res temp at 68
air temp 68
hum at 50% i have lots of air flow
did res change on 20th
ppm at 640 from 800 yesterday morning:cheer:
according to fox farm i should be at 1330-1470 on ppm what do you guys think sounds a little high to me?

hers some pics
these plant are 84 days from seed and 18 days into flower a little slow maybe i need to up nutes?:hmmmm: i will wait for some advice here Deep Water Culture
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Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Got your PM.

Plants with a little sativa in them sometimes flower slow initially. They also might not have the voracious appetite that ones that are mostly indica do. You might up the nutrients in stages as long as you see no signs of nutrient burn but I would exercise a modicum of caution so that if you do end up over-feeding, you realize it by seeing a few burned tips here and there instead of massive burn. I assume at only 18 days that the plants are still in the stretch phase so I wouldn't peter off the nitrogen yet (they use it in stretch). Do you keep track of the exact date that stretch ends so that you can estimate your harvest-day ahead of time? How long is it taking your reservoir's pH to climb to 6.2 after you do a change? If you set it at 5.8 when you change, I would expect it to take several days (depending on the size of the reservoir, of course). If it's happening in short order it may well mean that they are quickly consuming (the bloom portion of) the nutrients. How do you top of your reservoir as the level drops? Do you just add back water or do you mix some of your bloom component into the add-back water to drop the pH (in lieu of pH-Down) and to make up for the nutrients that the plants have consumed? I'm afraid I'll have to go back and reread your journal to get a better idea of how you are doing things. The ol' mind isn't what it used to be. A tool that is not often used becomes rusty and all that, lol.

I wasn't paying attention about your hermie. How bad is it? Is it just a couple of male flowers that you might keep up with (picking them off before they open) or is it going nuts?

Afraid I have little experience with FF nutes - and nothing at all recent - so I can't give you any specific recommendations. Hopefully someone that currently uses them will be able to chime in. As long as your TDS is dropping when your pH is rising it means that they're feeding.
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Got your PM.

Plants with a little sativa in them sometimes flower slow initially. They also might not have the voracious appetite that ones that are mostly indica do. You might up the nutrients in stages as long as you see no signs of nutrient burn but I would exercise a modicum of caution so that if you do end up over-feeding, you realize it by seeing a few burned tips here and there instead of massive burn. I assume at only 18 days that the plants are still in the stretch phase so I wouldn't peter off the nitrogen yet (they use it in stretch). Do you keep track of the exact date that stretch ends so that you can estimate your harvest-day ahead of time? How long is it taking your reservoir's pH to climb to 6.2 after you do a change? If you set it at 5.8 when you change, I would expect it to take several days (depending on the size of the reservoir, of course). If it's happening in short order it may well mean that they are quickly consuming (the bloom portion of) the nutrients. How do you top of your reservoir as the level drops? Do you just add back water or do you mix some of your bloom component into the add-back water to drop the pH (in lieu of pH-Down) and to make up for the nutrients that the plants have consumed? I'm afraid I'll have to go back and reread your journal to get a better idea of how you are doing things. The ol' mind isn't what it used to be. A tool that is not often used becomes rusty and all that, lol.

I wasn't paying attention about your hermie. How bad is it? Is it just a couple of male flowers that you might keep up with (picking them off before they open) or is it going nuts?

Afraid I have little experience with FF nutes - and nothing at all recent - so I can't give you any specific recommendations. Hopefully someone that currently uses them will be able to chime in. As long as your TDS is dropping when your pH is rising it means that they're feeding.


thanks ts for the quick response:thanks:
i did the res chg sat set ph at 5.8, i run 8 gal in my res. i top of res with ph correct water and bloom nutes [tiger bloom], and veg nutes {grow big} and carbo blast. this morning i adj nutes back to 800 and added ph down to 5.8, i always adj ph in jug before adding to res. i may wait a few hours and bump the ppm to 1000 and watch them close what do you think?

the gg hermie is bad full of male parts, the md is mild and i picking them off. but they are side side outside so seeds it will be, thats ok i do somthing with them, i may just make hash out of them.even if its extra smoke for hard times better than nouthing rite
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

thanks ts for the quick response:thanks:

I don't know what good it was, but you caught me when I had a minute.

i did the res chg sat set ph at 5.8, i run 8 gal in my res. i top of res with ph correct water and bloom nutes [tiger bloom], and veg nutes {grow big} and carbo blast. this morning i adj nutes back to 800 and added ph down to 5.8, i always adj ph in jug before adding to res.

Hmm... Well... Hmm... So you have a reservoir that has drifted up in pH and you adjust the pH of what you're adding to it. Does that in turn change the pH of your reservoir to the lower-end of the sweet-spot or do you have to adjust the pH of the reservoir itself a short time later?

I don't know if what I just typed makes sense or not, lol.

I'm not certain that pH-adjusters work in a completely linear fashion. When dealing with like substances (and ratios of same) it might, but... Have you experimented with waiting to adjust your pH until you've added everything to the reservoir (when topping it off) and then adjusting the reservoir as a whole to see if it makes any difference in the amounts of adjusters you need to use or how long it takes the pH to drift back up out of the sweet-spot?

I guess the goal is to not have to use any pH-adjusters at all, to get your nutrients (and mixes) dialed-in so that the nutrients that you are using for a top-off also have the affect of fixing your pH. Ultimate goal being that your pH drifts up because the plants consumed certain nutrients and it is fixed when you add back because you've replaced those nutrients. I got pretty good (well... reasonably competent ;)) at doing that with General Hydroponics nutrients but not so good with other nutrients. Not saying that it's because they're the best brand, just that I had more experience with them. As a generic statement, a person who's got a lot of experience with any particular brand can often do as well as or better than someone with a "better" brand who has less experience with them. You spend the first grow or two pretty much following the manufacturer's (or someone's) recommendations. Then maybe another grow or two varying the strengths of those nutrients. After that, you start playing around with the actual ratios of the various components that make up that brand's nutrients and that's what gives you a better understanding of them (and a better crop/yield).

i may wait a few hours and bump the ppm to 1000 and watch them close what do you think?

Sounds like a plan. You are using your head well when you don't make a change immediately after making another change as sometimes a reservoir can take a little time to stabilize. And doing anything when you've got the chance to observe them afterwards beats doing the same thing right before you head out the door.

One thing that people like about soil is its buffering capabilities (that hydro and "hydro-like" methods lack). For me, the reverse was generally true; I liked hydro because when I screwed around with things I could see results (both positive and negative) much quicker. That and the fact that if I did something really stupid I could dump the reservoir completely and fix it without having to do a big flush (or re-pot).

There were times when I was growing a lot when people would bring me a sick (dirt) plant and expect me to be able to tell them exactly what their problem was, "Since you know how to grow so well," and I'd get a little nervous since I didn't have that "immediate results" thing on my side.

Come to think of it, I still get nervous, lol.

the gg hermie is bad full of male parts, the md is mild and i picking them off. but they are side side outside so seeds it will be, thats ok i do somthing with them, i may just make hash out of them.even if its extra smoke for hard times better than nouthing rite

In that case, why is "gg" still alive? It won't be good breeding stock for you, IMHO and at best any seeds that you find on nearby(~) plants will have you wondering if they were fathered by it. (And at worst, they will be.) I can't think of any good use for it. Sure, it'll produce some (seedy) bud. But you can spend five minutes taking a cutting off of a plant (or several cuttings, to make up for the fact that your shim is larger than a clone would be) that is fully-female and stick it (them) in the hole that would be left after you rip that aberration out of the ground - and end up with good sin semillia instead of weak seedy bud come harvest time.

As for the one that you consider to be "mild," that is a tougher call. Some strains, such as a white widow phenotype I once had, like to throw out a couple of male flowers early on but then settle down and don't produce any more until very late in flowering. In such a case, picking off the male flowers can give you a harvest with few seeds (or none if you get lucky and there aren't any male flowers that you miss). But if it's producing them steadily (instead of just a few and then stopping), you might well still keep up with them... more or less... and have a decent harvest. But I wouldn't use them for breeding stock as I would think that their male flowers would be indicative of a trend towards hermaphrodism - something I for one wouldn't want to breed into a strain - as opposed to a case of stress causing it to happen. A female plant that only produces male flowers as a response to strong stresses, OTOH, might be worth using to breed as you'd have a better chance of getting female seeds.

Ramblin' on...
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I wouldn't worry about ph fluctuations in the range you talk about. Nutrients are absorbed at different levels of ph and a run between 5.8 and 6.2 is perfectly normal. Don't try to hit a number, hit a range of anywhere between 5.5 and 6.5.

Not fond of growing out anything that makes me work to pick male parts. If it's bad it has to go. If it's mild is has to be watched and if it keep producing male parts they it goes too.
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

As far as upping nutes, Plants look good where they are. I wouldn't follow bottle directions strictly and stay around 800-1000. As you move up do it in steps around 100 ppm as a test and then wait for results for a couple of days.
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

We know PH we can see right away in the tank. We can read the ppm right away. Question is how long does it take to see the effects the plant? I see you said wait a few days MC is that the true wait period to any change?
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Got your pm, I don't know FoxFarm nutes, but the advise Tortured and MC gave you is very sound. :goodluck: I'm still watching. :)
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Deep Water Culture is some intense ish... Like a botany science experiment where the hypothesis, results and conclusion is to get stoned...:) I want to try one! you make it look too easy Scaredee C.


look there for a how to and DIY tutorial
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Well, putting things in the tank is not like turning on a light switch. It takes at least a day or two to see the plants reaction in total. A slow bump up may not be all that obvious but usually I see some some of reaction either positive or negative. If the tips of the leaves lower a bit and there is any spotting then you know you have reached the limit and should back off from there. TS is right and if you have a sativa dominant strain they do not like nute levels at the same level as the indica dominant strain but that's a general guideline and not an absolute. The leaves will tell you a lot of what level you should be at.
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I don't know what good it was, but you caught me when I had a minute.



Hmm... Well... Hmm... So you have a reservoir that has drifted up in pH and you adjust the pH of what you're adding to it. Does that in turn change the pH of your reservoir to the lower-end of the sweet-spot or do you have to adjust the pH of the reservoir itself a short time later?

I don't know if what I just typed makes sense or not, lol.

I'm not certain that pH-adjusters work in a completely linear fashion. When dealing with like substances (and ratios of same) it might, but... Have you experimented with waiting to adjust your pH until you've added everything to the reservoir (when topping it off) and then adjusting the reservoir as a whole to see if it makes any difference in the amounts of adjusters you need to use or how long it takes the pH to drift back up out of the sweet-spot?

I guess the goal is to not have to use any pH-adjusters at all, to get your nutrients (and mixes) dialed-in so that the nutrients that you are using for a top-off also have the affect of fixing your pH. Ultimate goal being that your pH drifts up because the plants consumed certain nutrients and it is fixed when you add back because you've replaced those nutrients. I got pretty good (well... reasonably competent ;)) at doing that with General Hydroponics nutrients but not so good with other nutrients. Not saying that it's because they're the best brand, just that I had more experience with them. As a generic statement, a person who's got a lot of experience with any particular brand can often do as well as or better than someone with a "better" brand who has less experience with them. You spend the first grow or two pretty much following the manufacturer's (or someone's) recommendations. Then maybe another grow or two varying the strengths of those nutrients. After that, you start playing around with the actual ratios of the various components that make up that brand's nutrients and that's what gives you a better understanding of them (and a better crop/yield).



Sounds like a plan. You are using your head well when you don't make a change immediately after making another change as sometimes a reservoir can take a little time to stabilize. And doing anything when you've got the chance to observe them afterwards beats doing the same thing right before you head out the door.

One thing that people like about soil is its buffering capabilities (that hydro and "hydro-like" methods lack). For me, the reverse was generally true; I liked hydro because when I screwed around with things I could see results (both positive and negative) much quicker. That and the fact that if I did something really stupid I could dump the reservoir completely and fix it without having to do a big flush (or re-pot).

There were times when I was growing a lot when people would bring me a sick (dirt) plant and expect me to be able to tell them exactly what their problem was, "Since you know how to grow so well," and I'd get a little nervous since I didn't have that "immediate results" thing on my side.

Come to think of it, I still get nervous, lol.



In that case, why is "gg" still alive? It won't be good breeding stock for you, IMHO and at best any seeds that you find on nearby(~) plants will have you wondering if they were fathered by it. (And at worst, they will be.) I can't think of any good use for it. Sure, it'll produce some (seedy) bud. But you can spend five minutes taking a cutting off of a plant (or several cuttings, to make up for the fact that your shim is larger than a clone would be) that is fully-female and stick it (them) in the hole that would be left after you rip that aberration out of the ground - and end up with good sin semillia instead of weak seedy bud come harvest time.

As for the one that you consider to be "mild," that is a tougher call. Some strains, such as a white widow phenotype I once had, like to throw out a couple of male flowers early on but then settle down and don't produce any more until very late in flowering. In such a case, picking off the male flowers can give you a harvest with few seeds (or none if you get lucky and there aren't any male flowers that you miss). But if it's producing them steadily (instead of just a few and then stopping), you might well still keep up with them... more or less... and have a decent harvest. But I wouldn't use them for breeding stock as I would think that their male flowers would be indicative of a trend towards hermaphrodism - something I for one wouldn't want to breed into a strain - as opposed to a case of stress causing it to happen. A female plant that only produces male flowers as a response to strong stresses, OTOH, might be worth using to breed as you'd have a better chance of getting female seeds.

Ramblin' on...
Hmm... Well... Hmm... So you have a reservoir that has drifted up in pH and you adjust the pH of what you're adding to it. Does that in turn change the pH of your reservoir to the lower-end of the sweet-spot or do you have to adjust the pH of the reservoir itself a short time later?

it only changed it slightly, i then adj the whole res to 5.8

In that case, why is "gg" still alive?

the gg has more male parts at the top of plant more so than mb but it is a lot bigger than the md too so it looks like more and i am pulling the male parts off time consuming yes but i have time,there are no male parts left on either as i type. i won't use the seed to grow for sure on either one of them. i got clones of each good plants they will be mothers, on my next grow i will also buy some more fem seeds plus the clones of the mothers

ts thank you for your info always welcomed here, i'd rep you but the system will not let me you want so 420 points you and ts both deserve them
 
Re: Scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

As far as upping nutes, Plants look good where they are. I wouldn't follow bottle directions strictly and stay around 800-1000. As you move up do it in steps around 100 ppm as a test and then wait for results for a couple of days.

i bump the nutes to 1000 from 800 this morning my tap water is 50 and i know now to watch for leaf drop if i do i will do res change.

I wouldn't worry about ph fluctuations in the range you talk about. Nutrients are absorbed at different levels of ph and a run between 5.8 and 6.2 is perfectly normal. Don't try to hit a number, hit a range of anywhere between 5.5 and 6.5.

Not fond of growing out anything that makes me work to pick male parts. If it's bad it has to go. If it's mild is has to be watched and if it keep producing male parts they it goes too.

i have read that, i think next time i will see if ph drops, as far as the herms go, i am retired and need something to do anyway, i took about 10 minutes this morning to clip off male parts from both plants

mc thank you for your insight always welcomed very informative
 
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