Scaredeecat First Grow White Widow & BB, Magic Bud, Critical Jack, Moby Dick #2

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I have looked and looked for replacement filters for the pumps and I can not find any. I have learned they can be soaked in bleach for several days and the bleach just melts the decaying roots away. Then I use vinegar to rinse the bleach away.

Or you can replace the filters with these plastic pan scrubbers:

Simply clean your water pump, and replace the filters with one, two or three of the mesh pan scrubbers, depending on the size of your pump.

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

good info rose thanks

 

[Hotsause]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Nice growing i have a 10 Gal with only 2 plants and they are monsters I CANT IMAGING HAVING 6 in 1 Tote lol keep us updated cant wait to see them in Flowering Scare and Rose you should show my journal some love i would sure appreciate it

 

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I visited there, Hotsauce!

In about two weeks, we hope to get up a Deep Water Culture Contest. Information will be posted on the Deep Water Culture Home Thread here:

Deep Water Culture - DWC

Another method of supplying a ratio of Oxygen and nutrients to plants in a reservoir while submerging the root mass in water 24 hours a day

www.420magazine.com

Deep Water Culture miss a lot of great discussions and debates about Deep Water Culture on that thread.

It is like HOME COMING and a FAMILY REUNION there.

This week, we saw on that thread that StealthHydro was offering an additional 15% Discount if you used the word MEMORIAL as a coupon. With the Deep Water Culture 10% Discount, that was a great savings. Please visit the HOME thread often to stay alert as to what the Deep Water Culture are up to. MostlyCrazy was nominated for May Member of the Month and I think voting starts today or tomorrow.

 

[TorturedSoul]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Subscribed. I've only read the first page (40 posts) so far. Will catch up in the next day or two.

+REPs for growing your own medicine and for running a journal.

3 - Intake - Can likely be passive (a hole)

What I've always thought. I've seen plenty of setups where the grower used both an exhaust and an intake fan. In most, if not all, of them, if the person made another exhaust and moved the intake fan to it (or just switched to an exhaust fan rated at the combined CFM of the two original fans) and sized the intake hole(s) appropriately, the air flow would have gone up considerably. Sizing the intake so that there is a slight negative pressure in the grow area also helps with odor control.

got ventilation installed today , so i'll watch temps close to see if it helps
got 240 cfm coming in fresh air and 240 cfm going out.


this in inlet

this is outlet

For example, 480 CFM of exhaust fan(s) with passive intakes would see more flow-through (IMHO).

BtW, is your intake at the ceiling? If so I would change things so that the intakes were as close to floor-level as possible and the exhaust as close to ceiling-level as possible. Heat rises and you're fighting science if you try to vent it downwards unless you've got extreme airflow. A grow "room" suspended inside another room with even passive venting on both the top and bottom will have some cooling affect as the hot (above ambient temperature of the outer room) air escapes upwards and "draws" cooler air in from the bottom. But the same suspended box would not have much/any noticeable cooling if both holes were at the bottom. Mom keeps her basement door open in the winter time because she knows that the heat from the main floor won't go down the steps.

well even with ventilation the temps were still sky high, so i got a portable a/c and now my temps are 70-75 , i thought with cfls i would not have a proplem with temp in that box but i did, the 4 foot flour was hot too, but there nice and cool now

Glad you have the temperature issue nailed. CFLs seem to be slightly less efficient than tubes (varying sizes/wattages of each might reverse the two, IDK) and both are less efficient than the average HID in general (and much less than a HPS). Efficiency in lighting means how much of the input electricity becomes light vs. how much is wasted. The wasted electricity in lighting is heat. Size them so that you get equal light output from each and you'll have a good bit less heat with the HPS, which occasionally surprises people.

It is even more evident when people with HIDs keep their ballasts outside of their grow room. Most people who grow with fluorescents (tube or CFL) do not go to the trouble of separating the ballasts from the bulbs. Doing so would remove a major source of heat.

Sorry to post before I read all of the other posts. Just got ahead of myself (or was that "behind?").

 

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Subscribed. I've only read the first page (40 posts) so far. Will catch up in the next day or two.

+REPs for growing your own medicine and for running a journal.



What I've always thought. I've seen plenty of setups where the grower used both an exhaust and an intake fan. In most, if not all, of them, if the person made another exhaust and moved the intake fan to it (or just switched to an exhaust fan rated at the combined CFM of the two original fans) and sized the intake hole(s) appropriately, the air flow would have gone up considerably. Sizing the intake so that there is a slight negative pressure in the grow area also helps with odor control.



For example, 480 CFM of exhaust fan(s) with passive intakes would see more flow-through (IMHO).

BtW, is your intake at the ceiling? If so I would change things so that the intakes were as close to floor-level as possible and the exhaust as close to ceiling-level as possible. Heat rises and you're fighting science if you try to vent it downwards unless you've got extreme airflow. A grow "room" suspended inside another room with even passive venting on both the top and bottom will have some cooling affect as the hot (above ambient temperature of the outer room) air escapes upwards and "draws" cooler air in from the bottom. But the same suspended box would not have much/any noticeable cooling if both holes were at the bottom. Mom keeps her basement door open in the winter time because she knows that the heat from the main floor won't go down the steps.




Glad you have the temperature issue nailed. CFLs seem to be slightly less efficient than tubes (varying sizes/wattages of each might reverse the two, IDK) and both are less efficient than the average HID in general (and much less than a HPS). Efficiency in lighting means how much of the input electricity becomes light vs. how much is wasted. The wasted electricity in lighting is heat. Size them so that you get equal light output from each and you'll have a good bit less heat with the HPS, which occasionally surprises people.

It is even more evident when people with HIDs keep their ballasts outside of their grow room. Most people who grow with fluorescents (tube or CFL) do not go to the trouble of separating the ballasts from the bulbs. Doing so would remove a major source of heat.

Sorry to post before I read all of the other posts. Just got ahead of myself (or was that "behind?").

Great post and great info, Tortured.

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Subscribed. I've only read the first page (40 posts) so far. Will catch up in the next day or two.

+REPs for growing your own medicine and for running a journal.



What I've always thought. I've seen plenty of setups where the grower used both an exhaust and an intake fan. In most, if not all, of them, if the person made another exhaust and moved the intake fan to it (or just switched to an exhaust fan rated at the combined CFM of the two original fans) and sized the intake hole(s) appropriately, the air flow would have gone up considerably. Sizing the intake so that there is a slight negative pressure in the grow area also helps with odor control.



For example, 480 CFM of exhaust fan(s) with passive intakes would see more flow-through (IMHO).

BtW, is your intake at the ceiling? If so I would change things so that the intakes were as close to floor-level as possible and the exhaust as close to ceiling-level as possible. Heat rises and you're fighting science if you try to vent it downwards unless you've got extreme airflow. A grow "room" suspended inside another room with even passive venting on both the top and bottom will have some cooling affect as the hot (above ambient temperature of the outer room) air escapes upwards and "draws" cooler air in from the bottom. But the same suspended box would not have much/any noticeable cooling if both holes were at the bottom. Mom keeps her basement door open in the winter time because she knows that the heat from the main floor won't go down the steps.




Glad you have the temperature issue nailed. CFLs seem to be slightly less efficient than tubes (varying sizes/wattages of each might reverse the two, IDK) and both are less efficient than the average HID in general (and much less than a HPS). Efficiency in lighting means how much of the input electricity becomes light vs. how much is wasted. The wasted electricity in lighting is heat. Size them so that you get equal light output from each and you'll have a good bit less heat with the HPS, which occasionally surprises people.

It is even more evident when people with HIDs keep their ballasts outside of their grow room. Most people who grow with fluorescents (tube or CFL) do not go to the trouble of separating the ballasts from the bulbs. Doing so would remove a major source of heat.

Sorry to post before I read all of the other posts. Just got ahead of myself (or was that "behind?").

where have you been ts thanks for the reply, great info
the first fan is the inlet and the bottom was the outlet, the a/c acts as an outlet now 10kbtu, the problem is the t5 traps the hot air under it because it is a tight fit in the med cab, it is always cool on top of the box, i now use that fan i had for outlet to pull cool air into the mother box. i am going to install an outlet fan up high in the mother box 2'x4'x4' with cfl chandelier. i am switching 12/12. first i will let them sleep for 36 and start 12/12 after that. here is some pics not much room to work in the box now i'm afraid to remove them because i don't want to break them. i am also writing an journal to lobby for legalization for med use in my state, but i will not go forward until i complete this grow of course i will alter the names and faces to protect the innocent, in this journal it will describe my med problem and how mj has changed my life for the better, and what the docs did also. i am showing the entire grow in the journal so i want to complete this grow and stash my yeild in a safe location so when i do go public they can't find it.
i may post it here when i am done writing it so i can get some input.

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

double post

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

why would my res temp raise after removing pump? you would think that the temp would lower. i am using ice bottle to lower temp maintaining 67 with ice 70+ without, me not understand, i quess that pumping the water to cooler air above kept it cool.
any way on 12/12 cycle now, roots look fine and no smells, read df's post in Deep Water Culture and will be installing fan to blow on res today. i already have some preflower happening

 

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

the medium to large size pumps, generate heat. The electric motor in the pump makes heat.

 

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I would like to discuss the use of the water pump in the single Deep Water Culture reservoir tank. StealthHydro offers 2 different manufactured submersible water pumps. The ActiveAqua Pump offers sizes of 40 gph, (gallons per hour) 160, 250, 400 gph. They also offer the Sunleaves DuraPump, that is larger, stronger and comes in 160, 245 and 600 gph. The 400 gph and 600 gph larger pumps are only for small outdoor ponds and very large hydroponics systems that use multiple tanks from one pump. In discussions at the Deep Water Culture Home Thread, the Deep Water Culture have all agreed that the smaller the pump the better. It is better to have a smaller trickle of water mixed with bubbles than to have a solid hard stream of water from a larger pump. We also agreed that the smaller pumps do not produce as much heat, and they cost less, but they are not as durable. I have used the SunLeaves 245 gph pumps in 4 consecutive grows, and they are still pumping strong. Both brands are easy to disassemble to clean. When and if I ever have to replace a water pump, I will go with the more economical 160 gph SunLeaves Pump or ActiveAqua Pump because either provides the right amount of water and bubbles and it runs slightly cooler.

When should the pump be removed? Look at these pumps, after they were used for 4 weeks and I removed them.

Nasty looking after 4 weeks of use, aren't they? Allow me to stress or emphasize this; a submersible water pump can harbor dead debris, dead roots, and possibly mushy yukey slimey stuff that really jacks up the pH. After two weeks of use, you should give your water the sniff test to determine if the water pump is possibly spoiling the water. It should smell like fresh cut iceberg lettuce or alfalfa sprouts, and not have a bad odor. Most all water pumps have a filter in them that needs cleaning after three weeks, or get the pump out of there after 3 or 4 weeks or when the roots are well established in the deep water. A nasty filter is why you notice the need to increase the use of the pH Down after 3 or 4 weeks.

After the first two weeks, and then daily, your pH will normally climb from 6.0 to 7.0 in about 18 to 24 hours because the plants are eating the nutrients and the water level is going down, and becomes more acidic. If the water jumps to a pH of 7.5 to 8.0 in a day, you have a problem, and 99% of the time it is dead debris, dead roots or dead leaves in the tank or trapped in the water pump. Remove and clean the filter in the water pump after two or three weeks, or after the roots are established in the deep water, or get that water pump out. Then the pH will be more stable.

I have looked and looked for replacement filters for the pumps and I can not find any. I have learned they can be soaked in bleach for several days and the bleach just melts the decaying roots away. Then I use vinegar to rinse the bleach away.

Or you can replace the filters with these plastic pan scrubbers:

Simply clean your water pump, and replace the filters with one, two or three of the mesh pan scrubbers, depending on the size of your pump.

An alternative to disassembling and cleaning the pumps is the use of the SunLeaves Submersible Water Pump Bags offered by StealthHydro. I'll never do another grow without them.

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

rose i removed the pump and the temp raised in the res, just don't understand why it would raise with pump out, all is good they look healthy
ph at 5.8
res temp at 69
air temp 69 overnight 75 during light on
hum is to high at 60% turning dehum on just got to fix drain tube to drain under house will be done today
bloom and grow nutes at 800 ppm
bats dead on cam will post some pics later on today every thing looks good this morning no nute burn yet, but 800 is to much rite

cj has white pixels all over it
this is day 2 of flower

 

[Olias]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

rose i removed the pump and the temp raised in the res, just don't understand why it would raise with pump out, all is good they look healthy
ph at 5.8
res temp at 69
air temp 69 overnight 75 during light on
hum is to high at 60% turning dehum on just got to fix drain tube to drain under house will be done today
bloom and grow nutes at 800 ppm
bats dead on cam will post some pics later on today every thing looks good this morning no nute burn yet, but 800 is to much rite

cj has white pixels all over it
this is day 2 of flower

this is the chart i use with SH nutesThese numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:

Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

(this excludes the ppm of your water)

 

[Roseman]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I can only guess that you had a small pump that did not add heat, but did move water enough to cool it.

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

this is the chart i use with SH nutesThese numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:

Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

(this excludes the ppm of your water)

thanks oilas looks like i am good to go ppm of water is 40

I can only guess that you had a small pump that did not add heat, but did move water enough to cool it.

thanks rose thats what i thought

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

some updated pics today
crappie cam but white hairs

cj fat stalk

gg fat stalk not sure about sex on this one yet

group pic got some stretch but i have about 3 more foot of height going to lst them today

 

[TorturedSoul]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

I can only guess that you had a small pump that did not add heat, but did move water enough to cool it.

Or maybe it added minimal heat, but the action of the liquid going through the system allowed some kind of cooling affect - perhaps by some little amount of evaporation (which "uses up" heat to accomplish, at least in atmospheric conditions), perhaps by its movement along/across/through the system and media?

It does seem to be somewhat strange on the face of it.

 

[diesel farmer]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Looking good SDcat! peace

 

[Green007]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

Terrific looking grow!

You definitely did your homework, made a plan, and followed it. And it is paying off.
+reps

 

[scaredeecat]

Re: scaredeecat first grow whitewidow&bb, magic bud, critical jack, moby dick#2

thanks Deep Water Culture you know it's like waiting on your first born child and i am half way there oh the anticipation is killing me