Raiven's 1st Indoor Grow - THC Bomb Auto - 2014

Raiven, thanks for stopping by my journal and saying hello. I've read through your journal carefully and will make a few comments.

FFOF is very hot soil. It has a high mineral content from ingredients like crab shells. You do not have a deficiency of anything. In my opinion you have uptake issues related to excessive competition for nutrient uptake. In something like straight FFOF you should never feed anything for 4-6 weeks. It frequently causes problems for growers who are using it straight - even when they don't add any extra nutrients.

Also, if your water is in the pH 6.0 to 7.0 range don't even mess with pH adjusting products. You will only give yourself a headache. Here is a link to a blog I wrote about pH and nutrient competition in soil growing environments:

pH and whatnot in soil. - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®

I'm also concerned a little about your watering practices. You need to thoroughly wet the soil each time you water and let the container almost dry out between watering's. Water slowly in stages. First moisten the whole top of the soil with a little water. Wait ten minutes or so before adding more water. Continue slowly adding water in stages until all the soil is wet - right to the bottom and center of the plant.

You'll find that you get some runoff on the first water addition. This is because the top of the soil is dry. What you do is create a "flash flood" the first time you add water. The soil is not prepared to receive water. It runs over the top of the soil, down the junction between the soil and the side of the pot, and out the drain holes. Runoff is not a good indicator that the plant is well watered.

I'd also like to point out that KJC and I have very different growing styles. He uses a very nutrient poor soilless growing medium and adds everything the plant needs by mixing up cocktails of nutrients. For a medium like his a grower works in the pH 5.6-5.9 range. Remember that because the pH scale is logarithmic, the difference between 5.6 and 5.9 is 30 times greater than the whole difference between 6.0 and 7.0.... I prefer to make a nice soil, water with clean low PPM water, and just let the plants go. Either way works, there is not a right or wrong.

Problems often arise when a grower follows one set of instructions without paying attention to the starting growing medium. You are growing in soil with a high level of organic matter and minerals. You must behave accordingly. If you follow instructions for a lean soilless medium controlled by careful measuring of bottles of stuff you are missing out on the pure pleasure of growing in good organic soil. Some folks enjoy growing in a Petri dish. I like to grow in dirt.

I like this pH chart quite a bit more than the one commonly circulated.

pH_chart21.jpg


Here is a picture of some OG grown under CFLs (only out in the greenhouse for a picture) at 35 days. It has never had anything but water.

og222.jpg


:peace:

P10208761.jpg
 
Subscribed. Thank you for the invitation!

Your small plant appears to have a phosphorous deficiency and possibly a calcium deficiency. Your medium size plant appears to have either a developing phosphorous deficiency or a calcium deficiency. I believe your larger plant is better able to deal with the adverse conditions.

I believe your plants deficiency's are most likely from 2 things
1) FoxFarm Ocean Forest soil is considered to be high in nutrients and are often too high in nutrients for seedlings and small plants.
2) The addition of FoxFarm Nutrients to an already high nutrient soil has resulted in a nutrient buildup in the soil and has also caused the soil pH to drop out of a favourable pH range. The FoxFarm Nutrient Schedule also calls for regular flushing, have you been flushing your plants pots?

I believe you have a nutrient buildup in your soil that has also resulted in your soils pH dropping out of favourable pH range and you should flush your soil with at least twice the amount of pH adjusted water as pot size or until the runoff is pH 6.5.

This assessment from KJC is pretty spot on. I only differ in opinion because pH is only one small factor in nutrient uptake. Competition for transport is the big culprit, IMO. Too much traffic on the road.
 
Amen brother PeeJay! I may be an organic brethren, but have to compliment you on one of the best posts that I've ever read on this forum.
Raiven, thanks for stopping by my journal and saying hello. I've read through your journal carefully and will make a few comments.

FFOF is very hot soil. It has a high mineral content from ingredients like crab shells. You do not have a deficiency of anything. In my opinion you have uptake issues related to excessive competition for nutrient uptake. In something like straight FFOF you should never feed anything for 4-6 weeks. It frequently causes problems for growers who are using it straight - even when they don't add any extra nutrients.

Also, if your water is in the pH 6.0 to 7.0 range don't even mess with pH adjusting products. You will only give yourself a headache. Here is a link to a blog I wrote about pH and nutrient competition in soil growing environments:

pH and whatnot in soil. - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®

I'm also concerned a little about your watering practices. You need to thoroughly wet the soil each time you water and let the container almost dry out between watering's. Water slowly in stages. First moisten the whole top of the soil with a little water. Wait ten minutes or so before adding more water. Continue slowly adding water in stages until all the soil is wet - right to the bottom and center of the plant.

You'll find that you get some runoff on the first water addition. This is because the top of the soil is dry. What you do is create a "flash flood" the first time you add water. The soil is not prepared to receive water. It runs over the top of the soil, down the junction between the soil and the side of the pot, and out the drain holes. Runoff is not a good indicator that the plant is well watered.

I'd also like to point out that KJC and I have very different growing styles. He uses a very nutrient poor soilless growing medium and adds everything the plant needs by mixing up cocktails of nutrients. For a medium like his a grower works in the pH 5.6-5.9 range. Remember that because the pH scale is logarithmic, the difference between 5.6 and 5.9 is 30 times greater than the whole difference between 6.0 and 7.0.... I prefer to make a nice soil, water with clean low PPM water, and just let the plants go. Either way works, there is not a right or wrong.

Problems often arise when a grower follows one set of instructions without paying attention to the starting growing medium. You are growing in soil with a high level of organic matter and minerals. You must behave accordingly. If you follow instructions for a lean soilless medium controlled by careful measuring of bottles of stuff you are missing out on the pure pleasure of growing in good organic soil. Some folks enjoy growing in a Petri dish. I like to grow in dirt.

I like this pH chart quite a bit more than the one commonly circulated.

pH_chart21.jpg


Here is a picture of some OG grown under CFLs (only out in the greenhouse for a picture) at 35 days. It has never had anything but water.

og222.jpg


:peace:

P10208761.jpg
 
Raiven, thanks for stopping by my journal and saying hello. I've read through your journal carefully and will make a few comments.

FFOF is very hot soil. It has a high mineral content from ingredients like crab shells. You do not have a deficiency of anything. In my opinion you have uptake issues related to excessive competition for nutrient uptake. In something like straight FFOF you should never feed anything for 4-6 weeks. It frequently causes problems for growers who are using it straight - even when they don't add any extra nutrients.

Also, if your water is in the pH 6.0 to 7.0 range don't even mess with pH adjusting products. You will only give yourself a headache. Here is a link to a blog I wrote about pH and nutrient competition in soil growing environments:

pH and whatnot in soil. - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®

I have read this blog and subbed to it :thumb:

I'm also concerned a little about your watering practices. You need to thoroughly wet the soil each time you water and let the container almost dry out between watering's. Water slowly in stages. First moisten the whole top of the soil with a little water. Wait ten minutes or so before adding more water. Continue slowly adding water in stages until all the soil is wet - right to the bottom and center of the plant.

One of the faults of being a noob...
I watered completely wrong going by your method LOL...
I have burned these instructions into my brain for future waterings...


You'll find that you get some runoff on the first water addition. This is because the top of the soil is dry. What you do is create a "flash flood" the first time you add water. The soil is not prepared to receive water. It runs over the top of the soil, down the junction between the soil and the side of the pot, and out the drain holes. Runoff is not a good indicator that the plant is well watered.

I'd also like to point out that KJC and I have very different growing styles. He uses a very nutrient poor soilless growing medium and adds everything the plant needs by mixing up cocktails of nutrients. For a medium like his a grower works in the pH 5.6-5.9 range. Remember that because the pH scale is logarithmic, the difference between 5.6 and 5.9 is 30 times greater than the whole difference between 6.0 and 7.0.... I prefer to make a nice soil, water with clean low PPM water, and just let the plants go. Either way works, there is not a right or wrong.

Im still not 100% on ppm and EC or even pH for that matter hahaha...
I will continue researching and hopefully asking intelligent questions...
I want everyone to know Im not just here for answers, but I am willing to do the research and work as well...


Problems often arise when a grower follows one set of instructions without paying attention to the starting growing medium. You are growing in soil with a high level of organic matter and minerals. You must behave accordingly. If you follow instructions for a lean soilless medium controlled by careful measuring of bottles of stuff you are missing out on the pure pleasure of growing in good organic soil. Some folks enjoy growing in a Petri dish. I like to grow in dirt.

I like this pH chart quite a bit more than the one commonly circulated.



Here is a picture of some OG grown under CFLs (only out in the greenhouse for a picture) at 35 days. It has never had anything but water.



:peace:

Thank you again for checking out my journal and providing your wisdom!!
I will start putting this into practice right away...
Wish I didnt spend all the money on the chemical nutrients now that I realize Im using nutrient rich soil

:tokin:
:peace:
 
You will need the nutes when the soil gets tired. You didn't waste money. You just need them much later in the game than someone using a very lean soilless mix like KJC uses.

This short journal is an interesting read with a well controlled comparison of nutes vs no nutes in a rich soil. Hasn't updated in a while but still worth a look.

420's Special Queen #1 Indoor - Soil - Nutes/No Nutes - Comparative Study
 
Day 36
Veg. Day 25
07-17-14 6:00 pm

-Large Plant is awesome!!!
---A little droopy today
---Some leaves the sides were curled down a bit
---The TOPPING is recovering well and the 2 new tops are growing great
-Medium Plant looks great overall but it is starting to get ALOT of spotting on almost all the leaves
-Small Plant continues its struggle
---"decay" showing up on the leaves again after cutting off the large fan leaves that were rotted
---Growth seems stunted ... From the cutting of so many leaves maybe???
-No water
-No Nutes
-Temp.: 78 deg
-Hum.: 67%
-Soil still moist from FLUSHING 2 days ago
-Fanned all day
-24 hr light
-Switching to VEGGING next tuesday!!! :high-five:
-1/4 turn each plant

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SMALL PLANT
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MEDIUM PLANT
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LARGE PLANT
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You will need the nutes when the soil gets tired. You didn't waste money. You just need them much later in the game than someone using a very lean soilless mix like KJC uses.

This short journal is an interesting read with a well controlled comparison of nutes vs no nutes in a rich soil. Hasn't updated in a while but still worth a look.

420's Special Queen #1 Indoor - Soil - Nutes/No Nutes - Comparative Study

Ohhh all right good!!
Sorry I jumped to that conclusion too fast...

I just read through that journal and it was pretty nice ... informative and a great read ... hope they update it soon!!

:peace:
 
So I have a few questions at this point...
Next tuesday will be 29 days VEGGING
I was hoping to switch it to FLOWERING on that day
Thoughts on that??? Considering everything thats been going on with the girls...

Also Is it just me or do my plants seem a little "THIN"
It seems like every journal I look at no matter the strain...Everyones plants seem to be WAY more thicker and bushier than mine especially at this point in the life cycle...
Even plants Ive seen at a much earlier stage in other journals look thicker and such...
Comments thoughts etc.??

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!

:Namaste:
 
Are your temps still spiking real high? In most cases 75 degrees is optimum, a range of 70-80 works. Again, this is in most cases.
Your Humidity seems a little high also in the most recent picture. I think it's about 60% for veg, and 40-50% for flower.

Can you get your temps under control a little better? It might help to start there. What's going on with the AC you said you installed on the first page?
 
Are your temps still spiking real high? In most cases 75 degrees is optimum, a range of 70-80 works. Again, this is in most cases.
Your Humidity seems a little high also in the most recent picture. I think it's about 60% for veg, and 40-50% for flower.

Can you get your temps under control a little better? It might help to start there. What's going on with the AC you said you installed on the first page?

Temps and humidity are a problem that will be dealt with this weekend ...
I was forced out of my attic due to uncontrollable temperature rises during the day...
So far ive been in my studio with them ... then the last few days they have been in my shed awaiting the build of the grow box...

I will have detailed pictures and materials list and everything else from the build this weekend...

The ac is still in the studio room but even when I had that on all day long during the past weeks of crazy heat ... the room was still 107 or higher at its peak on some days ...

Crazy and im sure that it stunted them somehow ...

So many things will be different on the next grow

:tokin:
:peace:
 
Getting an AC unit with a higher BTU rating will help. What's the rating on yours?

Ill check when I get home ...
Stuck at a wedding...LoL
 
Please re read my advice. Your small plant is showing a phosphorous deficiency and possibly a calcium deficiency. your medium plant is showing a calcium deficiency and also a phosphorous deficiency.
 
Hey all sorry I have been busy the past few days...
I have an update with pictures coming shortly today...

I am finishing the grow box tonight and putting the plants to flowering starting tuesday...
Unless of course theres solid reason not too...

The small plant is probably going to get scrapped tonight...
You will see in the pictures that it is really not doing well and I dont wanna waste more time and resources on it if its not going to make it...
Plus this first month or so has been a huge learning experience...

See the next post and throw some comments my way about the upcoming two days!!

thank you again!

:peace:
 
Day 39
Veg. Day 28
07-20-14 8:00 pm

-Large Plant is awesome!!!
---A little droopy today still...bouncing back from humidity Im guessing
---The TOPPING is recovering well and the 2 new tops are growing great still
-Medium Plant looks great overall but spotting on almost all the leaves continuing
-Small Plant continues its struggle
---Most leaves brown curled dying or dead
---Growth is still very slow
-Did a FLUSH tonight
---Cleaned out the soil once more before nutes and flowering start on tuesday
-No Nutes
-Temp.: 77 deg
-Hum.: 38%
-Fanned 18/6
-Light 18/6
-Switching to flowering tuesday
-1/4 turn each plant

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SMALL PLANT
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MEDIUM PLANT
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LARGE PLANT
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GROUP SHOTS
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The small plant isn't a lost cause IMO. I hung on to a plant that grew like absolute crap, and managed to get a little under a gram from it. And it was decent smoke. If you were growing on a large scale, I'd say toss it. But smaller grows? Come on, it can't take but a few minutes a day to care for it, so why not work to fix her up? At the very least, it's going to add to your learning experience.
 
The small plant isn't a lost cause IMO. I hung on to a plant that grew like absolute crap, and managed to get a little under a gram from it. And it was decent smoke. If you were growing on a large scale, I'd say toss it. But smaller grows? Come on, it can't take but a few minutes a day to care for it, so why not work to fix her up? At the very least, it's going to add to your learning experience.

THATS IT!! IM CONVINVCED!!
KEEPING THE SMALL PLANT :thumb:

I never really wanted to throw it out I just get nervous being a first timer and I feel bad that I cant take care of my littlest plant :(
 
Aren't those autos, Raiven? Why are you going to change the light schedule?

Hey PeeJay...

A few comments mentioned plants and roots growing better with an 18/6 light schedule...
I have been on a 24 hr light schedule since the beginning because of the problems I had in the attic...
When I moved them into my studio I had nothing setup including timers and all...

18/6 has been going on for the last few days and I was hoping to get to flowering stage this week ...
My grow box will be finished tonight and hopefully all the wiring and everything will be functional by tomorrow night...

:thankyou:
:peace:
 
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