Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Yes. I take it your indoor was synthetic nutes and not LOS. What was the medium?
Now peat/coco/perlite with worm castings and guano but well those have been used and I use the Biocanna stuff which is vinasse based feed.
Previous SIP grow was store potting soil.
But I did a fabric pot grow in between same soil & feed and that stem was again way smaller than the SIPs, the buds were huge though but I also grew it very long.
What I used now for the first time is the Great White stuff and well that definitely does something as the plants have from the getgo been consuming a lot more water and need a lot more nutes than any previous SIP grows.
But I also kinda don't have enough wattage for the payoff as I'm spreading the lights over two plants.. If I had just focused on one she'd be full top to bottom.
 
Now peat/coco/perlite with worm castings and guano but well those have been used and I use the Biocanna stuff which is vinasse based feed.
Previous SIP grow was store potting soil.
But I did a fabric pot grow in between same soil & feed and that stem was again way smaller than the SIPs, the buds were huge though but I also grew it very long.
What I used now for the first time is the Great White stuff and well that definitely does something as the plants have from the getgo been consuming a lot more water and need a lot more nutes than any previous SIP grows.
But I also kinda don't have enough wattage for the payoff as I'm spreading the lights over two plants.. If I had just focused on one she'd be full top to bottom.
The indoor where you got the huge stem, was that store potting soil and liquid Biocanna? So, it wasn't microbe-activated soil?

EDIT: But now you are indoor SIP with peat/coco/perlite with worm castings and guano, plus Biocanna? And getting great results?
 
Yes, store potting and liquid biocanna.. aaah wait there were some
pellets in there with actinomycetes (streptomyces), bacillus (Optillus, Subtillus, G+, G-)
& 10 types of Mucor sp., Penicillium, yeast. and I used those in the fabric pot too. Now I ran out of those and will continue to use the GW.

But well that was the first photoperiod I did with the new Sanlight in the SIP and that got me big stems, then fabric pot under the light, smaller stem, and now SIP again and well the Sugar Bomb is well over an inch again, and the Strawberry bit smaller but she's a way more compact and smaller plant.
 
Yes, store potting and liquid biocanna.. aaah wait there were some
pellets in there with actinomycetes (streptomyces), bacillus (Optillus, Subtillus, G+, G-)
& 10 types of Mucor sp., Penicillium, yeast. and I used those in the fabric pot too. Now I ran out of those and will continue to use the GW.

But well that was the first photoperiod I did with the new Sanlight in the SIP and that got me big stems, then fabric pot under the light, smaller stem, and now SIP again and well the Sugar Bomb is well over an inch again, and the Strawberry bit smaller but she's a way more compact and smaller plant.
So now you are indoor SIP with peat/coco/perlite with worm castings and guano, plus Biocanna? And getting great results? Peat/coco/perlite with how much WC? Sounds like soilless plus bio-activated and some guano for N?
 
So now you are indoor SIP with peat/coco/perlite with worm castings and guano, plus Biocanna? And getting great results? Peat/coco/perlite with how much WC? Sounds like soilless plus bio-activated and some guano for N?
I wanted to get a soil low on peat and with organic compost and manures to try but the store was out so I ended up with bag of Plagron royalmix and chuck the things I have in there.

Well I'm getting thicker stems in the SIPs. that's all I'm saying
Results, well the better of recent harvests was the fabric pot but I vegged that for over 3 months and she got both of the lights just for her and , now I'm sharing and it remains to be seen if I can keep them fed this way. As well the fabric pot was 7G now I'm in 4G and she might be too big for her britches I need to flip faster in these.
 
And so far non-LOS.

Gee explains it better than I so I'll paraphrase.

A synthetic SIP grow is like a restaurant with an open buffet where the plants can help themselves to all the food and water they want and because of that they grow almost non-stop, just like hydro.

An LOS grow is more like a high-end restaurant with table service. The wait staff are exceptionally qualified and attentive, but they're also primadonna's, only willing to work in near ideal conditions. Too cold or wet or dim or whatever and the servers go on strike until working conditions are restored to their liking.

They are super good at what they do if the owner provides the proper environment, but like a high performance race car they have "certain needs." That's not necessarily a bad thing if the owner understands and provides the environment the staff requires.
Thanks for that... very helpful. So in my case in the current season outdoors, the big one is light. Fender is indoors w/ SIP and soilless w/ WC and organic nutes and getting big stems and from what I can tell, pretty good results.

So, even in your extended cycle example, the microbes are on strike for long periods of time until conditions end up in the sweet spot in the cycle, specifically a tight range of soil moisture content (really more a tight range of open hallways for O2). Those hallways are available to both air and water, with water displacing air in the soil mix. So during the cycle when the hallways are filled with water (and therefore lack of air), the waitstaff sit it out until air returns. So the patrons (plants) can ask for whatever they want, but the staff are sitting it out until things improve.
I hear you. Yep, this is another factor. What comes to mind is just put a lower drain hole right at the bottom of the sidewall, and then the SIP becomes like a normal 4-gal pot with aeration in the root zone. When the sunlight is pumping and the plant is old enough (large root mass), the lower drain hole could be plugged with a stopper. Then top-fertigate and catch some runoff in the rez, which then gets recycled up into the soil as needed. But then we are back to the waterlogged hallways. Unless... the plant is drinking up the fert-water rapidly. It seems sufficient light will drive this pump.

Now I'm thinking... wait... what we want are lots of available nutrients. In the SIP, due to the small container size, the nutrients must come from fertigation, so then you've got this problem with too much water, because water is needed in order to feed the plant. Too much water, because the rez water gets wicked up.

Now I'm thinking... how about a membrane covering the domes that allows air to circulate, but interrupts the wicking. I'm thinking a circular piece of the weed cloth I used for my DIY fabric pots, with a limited number of holes in it that would allow some deep roots to reach the "R zone" (water-saturated soilless zone). With my 3-dome design, the membrane could have large holes, one for each dome top. And then a few smaller holes so deep roots can reach the R zone.

With the membrane design, and no lower drain hole, we've got a 4-gal pot with aeration in the root zone, restricted wicking, and roots able to reach the fert-water in the reservoir. The hallways would be the same or similar to normal wet/dry cycle in a pot. Benefits are aeration in the root zone and deep roots can reach water and nutes. Fert-water can be checked for pH in the good range, 6.5?
 
I'm trying something a little different. First I'm going to increase the aggregate in my mix to increase drainage and second I'm going to change the connector pot substrate from soil to hydroton.

I figure the hydroton will provide a path for the water roots to find the rez but without the wicking action up into the soil. That way the plant can get all the water it wants but I can keep the soil at a lower moisture level.

My fertigation is topdressing weekly with a minerals and meals mix along with worm castings. Then I mist this layer in which keeps it active without sending much water below.

It'll be a few more weeks before I pot that container up but I'm anxious to see how it works.
 
I'm trying something a little different. First I'm going to increase the aggregate in my mix to increase drainage and second I'm going to change the connector pot substrate from soil to hydroton.

I figure the hydroton will provide a path for the water roots to find the rez but without the wicking action up into the soil. That way the plant can get all the water it wants but I can keep the soil at a lower moisture level.

My fertigation is topdressing weekly with a minerals and meals mix along with worm castings. Then I mist this layer in which keeps it active without sending much water below.

It'll be a few more weeks before I pot that container up but I'm anxious to see how it works.
Interesting, and it looks like I'm heading in a similar direction with my separation membrane. I think I'll give it a shot and build another SIP hopefully on Monday, and include the membrane. I've got a wheelbarrow full of a new mix, which is pretty much like my original SIP mix, but has significantly less worm castings. It uses a lot of coir, and has more perlite, and drains very fast. My CBD #18 clone in 1 gal is doing great and needs a SIP asap. (You saw it here first! SIPASAP™️.)
 
I'm trying something a little different. First I'm going to increase the aggregate in my mix to increase drainage and second I'm going to change the connector pot substrate from soil to hydroton.

I figure the hydroton will provide a path for the water roots to find the rez but without the wicking action up into the soil. That way the plant can get all the water it wants but I can keep the soil at a lower moisture level.

My fertigation is topdressing weekly with a minerals and meals mix along with worm castings. Then I mist this layer in which keeps it active without sending much water below.

It'll be a few more weeks before I pot that container up but I'm anxious to see how it works.
That would be correct, the full of peat SIP wicks way heavier than with the hydroton in between, hydroton I'd have a moisture gradient dry on top and always getting wetter, full peat it feels like I'm dipping my finger in the reservoir when I stick it into the top soil it's superwet.
 
Thanks for the input everyone! Much appreciated.

I think I need to find a spot on my land that gets a whole lot more sun than my flower house, so I can experiment with flowering SIP plants outside of the greenhouse... direct sun, direct UV... I'll need to figure out a way to keep the rain out of the SIP. And they will need to be protected from wild pigs...

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Thanks for that... very helpful. So in my case in the current season outdoors, the big one is light. Fender is indoors w/ SIP and soilless w/ WC and organic nutes and getting big stems and from what I can tell, pretty good results.
Yeah I don't know if it's kosher what I'm doing, as it's all kinds of wrong, like the current grow is basically an organic hydro grow as the "soil" is just 100% wet all the time.

Thing is since I got the new light my plants are growing way bigger and taller and fatter and well certainly in a SIP I'm noticing more stem width and plumper lower growth.. but I think I might still encounter rout bound issues somewhere in flower, so I think I need to grow in a larger SIP if I want to grow a small bush or well change to mineral so the roots at the res can use up more stuff right away or well flip faster in the small ones.

Hmm no big tree around you can put a SIP in? Someone on here grew in trees as a stealth measure but maybe to catch the Sun ain't a bad idea either :D
 
I should be able to rig up some kind of covering for the 5 gal SIP bucket. It also needs to breathe.
I found with the solid plastic cover they provide, top watering even a couple of times in my LOS caused problems. No top watering and perfect grows. Well perfect to the eye. Not brix perfect if you're looking for that. If you go solid, make a good mound to let water off.
 
I found with the solid plastic cover they provide, top watering even a couple of times in my LOS caused problems. No top watering and perfect grows. Well perfect to the eye. Not brix perfect if you're looking for that. If you go solid, make a good mound to let water off.
The reason I need a cover is only if I decide to try flowering outside the greenhouse in the direct sun. I that case, the plant will get hit with way too much rain, because it rains here regularly pretty much throughout the year. So I need an inventive cover at the base of the plant, around the stem, that drains the water way... some kind of conical plastic sheet I guess.
 
Greetings Growmies,

I harvested the CBD#9 in the SIP on Monday, on DAY 43.

This was a pretty good harvest. There was some bud rot, what I call the "dry" type which is light brown, but very isolated. This is the kind of bud rot that appears here and there on buds, and not widespread and hidden inside of buds. Some of the rot appeared on the terminal buds of branches. Anyway, it was no problem at all, and trimming was very easy. Given this pheno's apparent ability to handle low sunlight conditions fairly well, I'd call this a win for the SIP and the LOS. With more light, I think I would have seen better flower development—more stigmas and more trichomes. I think there would have been less bud rot as well.

She did fairly well, with intact leaves, much less leaf spot mold, and good cola and bud development. Buds were fat, dense, and well-spaced. Lots of completely clean buds and popcorn. In the end, the container was light weight—all water was used up.

CBD#9_buds.jpg


CBD#9_stem.jpg


CBD#9_budrot1.jpg


CBD#9_budrot2.jpg


CBD#9_budrot3.jpg


Total buds from the harvest. Lots of very clean buds and easy to trim. Great bud spacing, and not an overdose of popcorn. I got a nice amount from this relatively small plant. The structure reminded me a bit of a haze—Christmas tree shape, with nice cola development on each branch, and lower colas every bit as good as upper ones.
CBD#9_usable_buds_SIP.jpg


The trichome report: Clear and partially cloudy with no chance of amber. The bud rot was a limiting factor, otherwise I would have let her go longer. Nice and sticky. The odor is hard to describe... it reminded me a bit of baked cookies or muffins. This was different than the odor while still on the plant.
CBD#9_trichomes1.jpg


CBD#9_trichomes2.jpg


I'll do a postmortem and SIP root reveal in the next post...

:ciao:🎄🌟
 
Update from the veg house today...

Blueberry clone (L), Sweet Critical CBD clone (R), in 5 gal Triforce SIPs. They're doing great and each has a bit of fert-water in the rez. I'll let them dry out some, and then start fertigating via the fill tube only, in hopes that this will reduce the amount of water in the soil. In the middle background is CBD #18 pheno in 1 gal. In the far back, right, are HI-BISCUS clones in 1 gal.
veg_house1.jpg


Sweet Critical CBD clone, well fed and doin' fine.
sweet_critical_CBD.jpg


Blueberry clone lookin' good. She's drinking a bit less than the Sweet Critical.
blueberry.jpg


CBD #18 clone. This little indica-dominant plant always impresses me. Here she is still in 1 gal... gonna be up potted to a SIP probably tomorrow.
CBD#18.jpg


Very happy clones, some ready to be up potted to 1 gal.
clones.jpg


CBD#9 clone, one of my most vigorous phenos. I'm not surprised she has the biggest roots of the bunch.
roots.jpg


:ciao:
 
I'll let them dry out some, and then start fertigating via the fill tube only, in hopes that this will reduce the amount of water in the soil.
That should definitely help, though I've found that the moisture level in my pots has more to do with soil wickability than it does rez water level, at least mid to lower levels. Mine are small pots though so it may work better with your taller ones.

Stone's had pretty good luck with bottom watering only, though I think for him it's water-only down the tube.
 
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