looks like you missed the fim cut... which is what it stands for "Fuck I Missed" lol... hopefully you didn't... i would just top right now if i were you PPgirl ... all my fimming attempts looked just like your but grew the main stalk back...
PowerpuffGirl's 1st Bubbles Grow
- Thread starter PowerpuffGirl
- Start date
JonnyBtreed
New Member
Hey PP Great grow ya got goin on here. I'm very impressed. You've certainly done your research! I'm looking forward to a great grow and an impressive harvest!
ghostgardener
New Member
30% rh is fine you don't need a humidifier. Your girls will love it when you go to flower.
- Thread starter
- #64
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
The 30-32% RH is with 1 humidifier running. Without I'm around 20% RH in wintertime (in summer, my avg RH is @ 37%), so, yeah, it will be golden come bloom time. I added in a 2nd humidifier. With that and some wet washcloths/towels, the best RH I've seen is 42%.
More pics later today - It's been a busy week, both for me and girls!
More pics later today - It's been a busy week, both for me and girls!
- Thread starter
- #65
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
I wanted to try fimming because it looked trickier, but that'll teach me! It now looks like the White Castle was successful and branched, while the Super Lemon Haze grew back.
- Thread starter
- #66
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
So the theme for my week turned out to be Light In The Reservoir. Gah.
I started worrying about it after my last reservoir change a week ago. I had roots out of the cup, and one of the challenges I've had has been keeping the res water temp down, so on 1/11 I started adding layers of duct tape to my res, then 1/12 I started using a Hygrozyme/H2O2 combo just in case.
What I then observed was the White Castle plant that was in the middle of my res had the happiest roots all over. The plants on either side had some root rot/ fried roots. The area of dead roots for these plants was focused on the side that was closest to the holes I'd drilled in the res for my air lines. I turned the Super Lemon Haze cup once and sure enough, by the next day happy baby roots started looking withered. I could see light getting through the air line holes, even once I covered the holes with tape. I trimmed them and cleaned up as much of the damaged roots as I could, but this has caused some extra work over the past couple of days to get things back on track.
I'd also observed some brown slime, but these roots remained in good shape, so I've had some confusion whether this was algae/ pythium that I was adding the Hygrozyme/H2O2 for, or something else. From a post FrostyBuds made in bradkb's grow thread here, the slime could just be because I'm using Hygrozyme, which would be a relief.
In the end, I switched each of the three plants to their own 5-gallon buckets on Friday 1/15. The interior of the buckets are like a black hole compared to the Sterilite container I was using.
The most affected plant though this has been the Super Lemon Haze - she had the most damaged roots and I think some pH-stress, too.
SLH and her sad fried roots after trimming about 2 1/2 days ago.
SLH and her much happier roots today.
Here are the other girls:
Bubba Kush
White Castle - I'm really happy with how crazy-dense her top got after the fimming.
Here's an example from the WC of the brown slime I've seen. These roots have stayed in good shape so I'm hoping it is just the Hygrozyme.
I've lowered the EC of the SLH back down to .41 while it's recovering. The WC and BK are at .84 -.86 EC. Water temps have ranged from 64.3F-72.8F, the highest just before I replenish.
I've been checking the pH every 6-8 hours since the the two plants that are recovering from damaged roots have had spiking in pH and needed flushing to get the dead root matter out.
I started worrying about it after my last reservoir change a week ago. I had roots out of the cup, and one of the challenges I've had has been keeping the res water temp down, so on 1/11 I started adding layers of duct tape to my res, then 1/12 I started using a Hygrozyme/H2O2 combo just in case.
What I then observed was the White Castle plant that was in the middle of my res had the happiest roots all over. The plants on either side had some root rot/ fried roots. The area of dead roots for these plants was focused on the side that was closest to the holes I'd drilled in the res for my air lines. I turned the Super Lemon Haze cup once and sure enough, by the next day happy baby roots started looking withered. I could see light getting through the air line holes, even once I covered the holes with tape. I trimmed them and cleaned up as much of the damaged roots as I could, but this has caused some extra work over the past couple of days to get things back on track.
I'd also observed some brown slime, but these roots remained in good shape, so I've had some confusion whether this was algae/ pythium that I was adding the Hygrozyme/H2O2 for, or something else. From a post FrostyBuds made in bradkb's grow thread here, the slime could just be because I'm using Hygrozyme, which would be a relief.
In the end, I switched each of the three plants to their own 5-gallon buckets on Friday 1/15. The interior of the buckets are like a black hole compared to the Sterilite container I was using.
The most affected plant though this has been the Super Lemon Haze - she had the most damaged roots and I think some pH-stress, too.
SLH and her sad fried roots after trimming about 2 1/2 days ago.
SLH and her much happier roots today.
Here are the other girls:
Bubba Kush
White Castle - I'm really happy with how crazy-dense her top got after the fimming.
Here's an example from the WC of the brown slime I've seen. These roots have stayed in good shape so I'm hoping it is just the Hygrozyme.
I've lowered the EC of the SLH back down to .41 while it's recovering. The WC and BK are at .84 -.86 EC. Water temps have ranged from 64.3F-72.8F, the highest just before I replenish.
I've been checking the pH every 6-8 hours since the the two plants that are recovering from damaged roots have had spiking in pH and needed flushing to get the dead root matter out.
Chevyman
New Member
hey ppf. if you are using foxfarm nutes then thats where the brown stuff comes from. mine look like that and the plant is perfectly healthy.. its the big bloom with the bat quano and earthworm castings that does that.eventully all the roots will be dyed brown color. and if u use h202 with organic nutes it counteract each other.
- Thread starter
- #68
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
Thanks chevyman! I was wondering about the oxygen from the H2O2 reacting with the Hygro or nutes but the organic chemistry I did in college is way too fuzzy. Put it down to noob panic. I can't tell good brown poo from bad brown poo!
bradkb
New Member
Hey PPG, Great grow here. Plants look great.
This is a very similar problem to what you saw in my thread. Frosty Buds is 100% correct. I did a res change and eliminated the Hygrozyme, and my roots are really taking off.
I cut the brown roots off of my plants if they are mushy, if they feel nice and sturdy then it is probably just staining. It didn't seem to hurt them at all. New roots just took them over.
How much peroxide are you using? Is it the 3% solution? I have found that I need to use peroxide on a regular basis. When I do a res change (3 gallons) I put in 1/2 cup. Then every couple of days I will put in 1/3 cup. Roseman has a good page on this that came from Ed Rosenthal.
Here is some Roseman info that I have gathered that you might find useful. He did all of the work, I'm just cuttin & pastin.
Pythium, Roor Rot -
Thick, fat, white furry roots are what you most want to see - they are absolutely indicative of healthy root growth. Be aware however that the color of a nutrient solution will stain the roots, turning them yellow or brown. This is also true of many nutrient additives. Older, more mature plants will have a darker cream-colored root system, and some plants just tend to have a natural cream colored color pigment. My Bloom nutes stain the roots pink.
Root Zone Temperature
The temperature of the root zone and the temperature of the nutrient water solution can have a major effect on the healthy growth and appearance of the root system. In general the temperature should be between 68 and 72 degrees farenheit. Anywhere between 64 and 80 will be OK. Colder or warmer conditions can cause poor and stunted root growth, as the roots don't want to grow into the unhospitable nutrient solution. Major root death can occur in even brief periods of cold or heat stress. Poor temperature conditions leave the door open to root disease.
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic nutes or organic additives in the reservoir. You can not try to kill the organic algae or pythium and add organic materials back. That just won't work!
They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning because of his water or temps.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach or peroxide solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir with organic nutes or staying with strickly chemical nutes..
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir. Let me warn you that SM-90 and Hygrozyme are medicines for very sick plants and are not to be sued lightely or often. One, they wreck pH. Two, you do not want your child to enjoy drinking cough syurp when the child is not even coughing and sick. Same goes for SM-90, Hygrozyme and even Peroxide. Please use them sparingly and only when needed.
The only time to constantly use Peroxide, is when it is impossible to get the temp of the water down, then you can use one teaspoon per gallon of water daily, as a root rot preventative.
and let me add, I have seen many growers say I KILLED MY CROP WITH HYGROZYME OR SM-90.
HOW DO I DEAL WITH ALGAE BUILD UP IN MY HYDROPONIC SYSTEM?
Answer: The best method is prevention. If you keep the solution away from light, i.e. keep the lids closed and all openings sealed, and sue cup covers, you can prevent algae from growing. ALGAE HAVE TO HAVE LIGHT, TO GROW.
If you already have algae in the system you can remove it with a SCRUB-brush, or use hydrogen peroxide (3ml or two teaspoons of 3% H2O2 per gallon of solution) to remove it. If there are particles floating in the nutrient solution, be sure to flush the reservoir and growing chamber with ample water, and then start with a new batch of nutrient and pH balanced water. If the problem is severe, make sure you have the algae completely flushed out to avoid the risk of clogging some of the flow lines in the system.
After you use the peroxide, refill the tank with clean water and DRAIN AND REPLINISH AGAIN to rinse it good.
Some info says peroxide will not help or work, and will kill the plants like it kills the algae. Use common sense and don't flood the plants with peroxide, and rinse the tank thoroughly.
All hydroponic growers know what algae looks like - it is often green, but can be brown, reddish or black, it clings to channels, gullies or pumps or oozes over the top of damp media. Algae often has an 'earthy' or 'moldy' smell, is slimy, or gooey, particularly when large numbers are decomposing in the nutrient. It has the ability to block drippers, emitters, pumps, return channels, and heavy infestations can actually 'seal' off the surface of the media or substrate. It can ruin a pump or stop up a feeder tube in DRIP or Deep Water Culture SYSTEMS.
The problem with algae, apart from the appearance and smell problems it creates, is not so much that it uses up nutrients from the solution, but as it blooms, dies and decomposes, it removes dissolved oxygen from the hydroponic system. This increases the biological oxygen demand (BOD) on the system and the plant's roots may suffocate from a lack of O2. Decomposing algae may also release toxins as it breaks down and provides a food source for plant pathogenic fungi which may then multiply to high levels in the system. Algae on plant root systems can suffocate the roots, making the plants prone to attack by opportunist pathogens such as Pythium.
Algae, is a form of plant life, it is a natural consequence of exposing water with nutrients dissolved in it to a light source. Where there is no light, algae can not grow, so the most obvious solution to preventing algae growth is to stop light from reaching the nutrient solution where ever possible. Cups should have light proof covers, return gullies also need covers, large media beds can also be covered with either plastic film or a layer of substrate which is designed to act as a 'dry mulch' since algae can not grow on dry surfaces. In aeroponic systems, the root chamber must be light proof and media based pot or container systems can have plastic or rigid collars made which cover the surface of the media.
Control of algae, once in a hydroponic system can be difficult - some DWC growers tolerate small amounts of algae in the system, provided it does not become excessive and this usually causes no problems. Where algae growth has become thick and widespread, often the best option is to clean up the whole system after crop removal and start again with a clean system.
Some growers add algaecide products into the nutrient to kill off algae and there are a number of these products on the market. However, since any product which kills algae, a form of plant life, can also damage young or sensitive root systems, care must be taken with the dose and damage has been known to occur. Algae will also regrow, very quickly after applications of most algaecide products, requiring more and more of the chemical to get good control. In a study carried out in Belgium on Algae control in hydroponic systems, it was found that many of the products tested for control of algae in nutrient solutions (Diazinon, Endosulfan, Propiconazole, Thiram, Ziram, Quinomanid, Hygrozyme, Irgarol-1051, SM-90, ) were either totally ineffective in killing algae, or killed off much of the algae but were also very phytotoxic to the plants and causes considerable root damage. Plus the play havoc witht eh pH. It was also found that dose levels of 50ppm of hydrogen peroxide was requited to control algae, but that this dose was too phytotoxic for young plants, although older plants survived this dose rate. Therefore, careful and selective use of H2O2 could be used on older, more resistant plants, but since H2O2 is a 'biocide' rather than an 'algicide' there is always a risk of root damage.
Other studies have found 'organic' algae control methods such as adding certain 'grapefruit seed extracts' to the nutrient will kill algae without harming the plants - this is a method used in drinking water, fish ponds, lakes etc and appears to work well. There could be the potential, in larger hydroponic tanks to use 'Barley straw rafts' as a means of algae control as has been proven to work in ponds, lakes and other water ways.
However the best method of algae control will still always be prevention of the problem, so excluding light should be the main emphasis in systems with algae problems.
Let's look at what Ed Rosenthal says about peroxide.
I found this article very interesting. It was written by Ed Rosenthal. I see a lot of mis-information about peroxide, and debate too, so I wanted to show you what he says.
by Ed Rosenthal.
How much hydrogen peroxide should be used?
When and how much hydrogen peroxide should I use in my hydroponic solution?
Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that can be used to destroy fungi, molds, bacteria and other infectious agents as well as some pollutants. Adding it to your water helps plants by destroying infectious agents and by adding oxygen to the roots' environment.
Hydrogen peroxide is an essential ingredient in maintaining a clean growing room. It replaces chlorine bleach, which is antiseptic but harmful to breathe. When added to reservoirs, hydrogen peroxide slows the growth of algae and other water organisms so that trays and utensils need to be cleaned less frequently. Soil and water borne diseases such as pythium and other stem and root rots occur at much lower rates in hydrogen peroxide-enriched water. Hydrogen peroxide works because of the oxidative reaction, so micro-organisms are unlikely to develop a tolerance.
There are many ways to add hydrogen peroxide to the water. A measured amount every three days is the crudest method, but still effectively enriches the water. A smaller measured amount daily would even out the peaks and valleys of oxygen in the water. Another method is to use a drip similar to an IV bag, which continuously adds a regulated amount. The most sophisticated method is a probe which measures the oxygen content of the water as an indirect means of measuring the hydrogen peroxide, and adds an appropriate amount as needed.
When used properly, hydrogen peroxide can keep infections in the garden to a minimum and stimulate root growth by increasing the oxygen content of the water. Hydrogen peroxide degrades into free oxygen and water over a three-day period. Some of the oxygen dissolves in the reservoir water and is used by the roots.
Different concentrations of hydrogen peroxide solution are available. It is sold diluted to 3% in drug stores. Some indoor garden shops sell 10% grade and 35% grade is sold in a few health food stores and over the Internet. The 3% hydrogen peroxide solution can be used topically to sterilize cuts and infections. Hydrogen peroxide solution at 10% burns skin. 35% hydrogen peroxide solution acts much like a concentrated acid and is handled as a hazardous, corrosive liquid.
The 10% hydrogen peroxide solution is sometimes used at rates as low as one ounce per 10 gallons water; however, enrichment using an ounce per gallon is more effective for disease control. When 35% hydrogen peroxide solution is used, it can be added at the rate of three ounces per 10 gallons of water. If a 3% solution is used, use three ounces per gallon of water as a cure.
__________________
Hope this helps.
This is a very similar problem to what you saw in my thread. Frosty Buds is 100% correct. I did a res change and eliminated the Hygrozyme, and my roots are really taking off.
I cut the brown roots off of my plants if they are mushy, if they feel nice and sturdy then it is probably just staining. It didn't seem to hurt them at all. New roots just took them over.
How much peroxide are you using? Is it the 3% solution? I have found that I need to use peroxide on a regular basis. When I do a res change (3 gallons) I put in 1/2 cup. Then every couple of days I will put in 1/3 cup. Roseman has a good page on this that came from Ed Rosenthal.
Here is some Roseman info that I have gathered that you might find useful. He did all of the work, I'm just cuttin & pastin.
Pythium, Roor Rot -
Thick, fat, white furry roots are what you most want to see - they are absolutely indicative of healthy root growth. Be aware however that the color of a nutrient solution will stain the roots, turning them yellow or brown. This is also true of many nutrient additives. Older, more mature plants will have a darker cream-colored root system, and some plants just tend to have a natural cream colored color pigment. My Bloom nutes stain the roots pink.
Root Zone Temperature
The temperature of the root zone and the temperature of the nutrient water solution can have a major effect on the healthy growth and appearance of the root system. In general the temperature should be between 68 and 72 degrees farenheit. Anywhere between 64 and 80 will be OK. Colder or warmer conditions can cause poor and stunted root growth, as the roots don't want to grow into the unhospitable nutrient solution. Major root death can occur in even brief periods of cold or heat stress. Poor temperature conditions leave the door open to root disease.
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic nutes or organic additives in the reservoir. You can not try to kill the organic algae or pythium and add organic materials back. That just won't work!
They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning because of his water or temps.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach or peroxide solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir with organic nutes or staying with strickly chemical nutes..
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir. Let me warn you that SM-90 and Hygrozyme are medicines for very sick plants and are not to be sued lightely or often. One, they wreck pH. Two, you do not want your child to enjoy drinking cough syurp when the child is not even coughing and sick. Same goes for SM-90, Hygrozyme and even Peroxide. Please use them sparingly and only when needed.
The only time to constantly use Peroxide, is when it is impossible to get the temp of the water down, then you can use one teaspoon per gallon of water daily, as a root rot preventative.
and let me add, I have seen many growers say I KILLED MY CROP WITH HYGROZYME OR SM-90.
HOW DO I DEAL WITH ALGAE BUILD UP IN MY HYDROPONIC SYSTEM?
Answer: The best method is prevention. If you keep the solution away from light, i.e. keep the lids closed and all openings sealed, and sue cup covers, you can prevent algae from growing. ALGAE HAVE TO HAVE LIGHT, TO GROW.
If you already have algae in the system you can remove it with a SCRUB-brush, or use hydrogen peroxide (3ml or two teaspoons of 3% H2O2 per gallon of solution) to remove it. If there are particles floating in the nutrient solution, be sure to flush the reservoir and growing chamber with ample water, and then start with a new batch of nutrient and pH balanced water. If the problem is severe, make sure you have the algae completely flushed out to avoid the risk of clogging some of the flow lines in the system.
After you use the peroxide, refill the tank with clean water and DRAIN AND REPLINISH AGAIN to rinse it good.
Some info says peroxide will not help or work, and will kill the plants like it kills the algae. Use common sense and don't flood the plants with peroxide, and rinse the tank thoroughly.
All hydroponic growers know what algae looks like - it is often green, but can be brown, reddish or black, it clings to channels, gullies or pumps or oozes over the top of damp media. Algae often has an 'earthy' or 'moldy' smell, is slimy, or gooey, particularly when large numbers are decomposing in the nutrient. It has the ability to block drippers, emitters, pumps, return channels, and heavy infestations can actually 'seal' off the surface of the media or substrate. It can ruin a pump or stop up a feeder tube in DRIP or Deep Water Culture SYSTEMS.
The problem with algae, apart from the appearance and smell problems it creates, is not so much that it uses up nutrients from the solution, but as it blooms, dies and decomposes, it removes dissolved oxygen from the hydroponic system. This increases the biological oxygen demand (BOD) on the system and the plant's roots may suffocate from a lack of O2. Decomposing algae may also release toxins as it breaks down and provides a food source for plant pathogenic fungi which may then multiply to high levels in the system. Algae on plant root systems can suffocate the roots, making the plants prone to attack by opportunist pathogens such as Pythium.
Algae, is a form of plant life, it is a natural consequence of exposing water with nutrients dissolved in it to a light source. Where there is no light, algae can not grow, so the most obvious solution to preventing algae growth is to stop light from reaching the nutrient solution where ever possible. Cups should have light proof covers, return gullies also need covers, large media beds can also be covered with either plastic film or a layer of substrate which is designed to act as a 'dry mulch' since algae can not grow on dry surfaces. In aeroponic systems, the root chamber must be light proof and media based pot or container systems can have plastic or rigid collars made which cover the surface of the media.
Control of algae, once in a hydroponic system can be difficult - some DWC growers tolerate small amounts of algae in the system, provided it does not become excessive and this usually causes no problems. Where algae growth has become thick and widespread, often the best option is to clean up the whole system after crop removal and start again with a clean system.
Some growers add algaecide products into the nutrient to kill off algae and there are a number of these products on the market. However, since any product which kills algae, a form of plant life, can also damage young or sensitive root systems, care must be taken with the dose and damage has been known to occur. Algae will also regrow, very quickly after applications of most algaecide products, requiring more and more of the chemical to get good control. In a study carried out in Belgium on Algae control in hydroponic systems, it was found that many of the products tested for control of algae in nutrient solutions (Diazinon, Endosulfan, Propiconazole, Thiram, Ziram, Quinomanid, Hygrozyme, Irgarol-1051, SM-90, ) were either totally ineffective in killing algae, or killed off much of the algae but were also very phytotoxic to the plants and causes considerable root damage. Plus the play havoc witht eh pH. It was also found that dose levels of 50ppm of hydrogen peroxide was requited to control algae, but that this dose was too phytotoxic for young plants, although older plants survived this dose rate. Therefore, careful and selective use of H2O2 could be used on older, more resistant plants, but since H2O2 is a 'biocide' rather than an 'algicide' there is always a risk of root damage.
Other studies have found 'organic' algae control methods such as adding certain 'grapefruit seed extracts' to the nutrient will kill algae without harming the plants - this is a method used in drinking water, fish ponds, lakes etc and appears to work well. There could be the potential, in larger hydroponic tanks to use 'Barley straw rafts' as a means of algae control as has been proven to work in ponds, lakes and other water ways.
However the best method of algae control will still always be prevention of the problem, so excluding light should be the main emphasis in systems with algae problems.
Let's look at what Ed Rosenthal says about peroxide.
I found this article very interesting. It was written by Ed Rosenthal. I see a lot of mis-information about peroxide, and debate too, so I wanted to show you what he says.
by Ed Rosenthal.
How much hydrogen peroxide should be used?
When and how much hydrogen peroxide should I use in my hydroponic solution?
Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that can be used to destroy fungi, molds, bacteria and other infectious agents as well as some pollutants. Adding it to your water helps plants by destroying infectious agents and by adding oxygen to the roots' environment.
Hydrogen peroxide is an essential ingredient in maintaining a clean growing room. It replaces chlorine bleach, which is antiseptic but harmful to breathe. When added to reservoirs, hydrogen peroxide slows the growth of algae and other water organisms so that trays and utensils need to be cleaned less frequently. Soil and water borne diseases such as pythium and other stem and root rots occur at much lower rates in hydrogen peroxide-enriched water. Hydrogen peroxide works because of the oxidative reaction, so micro-organisms are unlikely to develop a tolerance.
There are many ways to add hydrogen peroxide to the water. A measured amount every three days is the crudest method, but still effectively enriches the water. A smaller measured amount daily would even out the peaks and valleys of oxygen in the water. Another method is to use a drip similar to an IV bag, which continuously adds a regulated amount. The most sophisticated method is a probe which measures the oxygen content of the water as an indirect means of measuring the hydrogen peroxide, and adds an appropriate amount as needed.
When used properly, hydrogen peroxide can keep infections in the garden to a minimum and stimulate root growth by increasing the oxygen content of the water. Hydrogen peroxide degrades into free oxygen and water over a three-day period. Some of the oxygen dissolves in the reservoir water and is used by the roots.
Different concentrations of hydrogen peroxide solution are available. It is sold diluted to 3% in drug stores. Some indoor garden shops sell 10% grade and 35% grade is sold in a few health food stores and over the Internet. The 3% hydrogen peroxide solution can be used topically to sterilize cuts and infections. Hydrogen peroxide solution at 10% burns skin. 35% hydrogen peroxide solution acts much like a concentrated acid and is handled as a hazardous, corrosive liquid.
The 10% hydrogen peroxide solution is sometimes used at rates as low as one ounce per 10 gallons water; however, enrichment using an ounce per gallon is more effective for disease control. When 35% hydrogen peroxide solution is used, it can be added at the rate of three ounces per 10 gallons of water. If a 3% solution is used, use three ounces per gallon of water as a cure.
__________________
Hope this helps.
FrostyBuds
New Member
PPG nice to see the plants have recovered and are looking good.
Just remember a lot of these nutes out there have colors like kool-aid and they stain stuff just like it. If you got a white bucket or clear container, mix some nutes up in that and see what color you get, for the time you use that stuff the roots will take on that color, they are white and a blank canvas waiting to soak up anything.
Keep up the good work.
Just remember a lot of these nutes out there have colors like kool-aid and they stain stuff just like it. If you got a white bucket or clear container, mix some nutes up in that and see what color you get, for the time you use that stuff the roots will take on that color, they are white and a blank canvas waiting to soak up anything.
Keep up the good work.
Yeah Hygrozyme works great 1 tsp (5ml) per gallon at res change keeps the water clean and fresh smelling, no need to use it in your top off's during the week.
I've never heard of mixing the two, but IMO hygrozyme is the better choice.
- Thread starter
- #72
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
Okay, back on the proper journaling train.
Over the past two days I've stopped using the Hygrozyme and H202. Combined with turning on the AC, my water's much cooler and cleaner. Plants have been happier too, and that's what it's all about. By treating a problem that didn't exist, I stunted growth for a week, but things are back on track!
Each plant is in its own 5-gal bucket with own water and air pump, 2 6" airstones each.
1/19: Day 28, Day 23 out of rockwool for SLH and WC, Day 17 for BK
Air temp 72.3F, RH 38%
WC:
pH 6.3, Water temp 67.7F
PPM 792, EC 1.12
White Castle
White Castle Roots
SLH:
pH 6.5, Water temp 67.2F
PPM 648, EC .91
Super Lemon Haze
Super Lemon Haze Roots
BK:
pH 6.4, Water temp 66.7F
PPM 724, EC 1.02
Bubba Kush
Bubba Kush roots
Over the past two days I've stopped using the Hygrozyme and H202. Combined with turning on the AC, my water's much cooler and cleaner. Plants have been happier too, and that's what it's all about. By treating a problem that didn't exist, I stunted growth for a week, but things are back on track!
Each plant is in its own 5-gal bucket with own water and air pump, 2 6" airstones each.
1/19: Day 28, Day 23 out of rockwool for SLH and WC, Day 17 for BK
Air temp 72.3F, RH 38%
WC:
pH 6.3, Water temp 67.7F
PPM 792, EC 1.12
White Castle
White Castle Roots
SLH:
pH 6.5, Water temp 67.2F
PPM 648, EC .91
Super Lemon Haze
Super Lemon Haze Roots
BK:
pH 6.4, Water temp 66.7F
PPM 724, EC 1.02
Bubba Kush
Bubba Kush roots
FrostyBuds
New Member
PPG, those roots are looking good. Nice forking action going on, nice new white growth. Good to see everything is back on track.
JonnyBtreed
New Member
Okay, back on the proper journaling train.
Over the past two days I've stopped using the Hygrozyme and H202. Combined with turning on the AC, my water's much cooler and cleaner. Plants have been happier too, and that's what it's all about. By treating a problem that didn't exist, I stunted growth for a week, but things are back on track!
Each plant is in its own 5-gal bucket with own water and air pump, 2 6" airstones each.
1/19: Day 28, Day 23 out of rockwool for SLH and WC, Day 17 for BK
Air temp 72.3F, RH 38%
WC:
pH 6.3, Water temp 67.7F
PPM 792, EC 1.12
White Castle
White Castle Roots
SLH:
pH 6.5, Water temp 67.2F
PPM 648, EC .91
Super Lemon Haze
Super Lemon Haze Roots
BK:
pH 6.4, Water temp 66.7F
PPM 724, EC 1.02
Bubba Kush
Bubba Kush roots
There ya go PP!!! Absolutely awesome and back on track!
Powderpuffgirl,
do you MIST them daily? Plain water or Foilage Spray?
They'd love a good rain!
do you MIST them daily? Plain water or Foilage Spray?
They'd love a good rain!
- Thread starter
- #76
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
I gave them their first mist shower tonight, a third of the FF nutes suggested for foliar feeding since it was a first. The girls seemed to drink it up happily and the RH got a 5% boost!
- Thread starter
- #78
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
It's been amazing to me how much happier the plants have been and how the pH fluctuations in my res have virtually disappeared since I stopped messing with the Hygrozyme and H2O2. It just goes to show that you need to be certain you have a problem BEFORE dabbling with that stuff. The girls are loving straight pH-balanced water and nutes! They are also loving the mistings I've given the past three nights. Thanks for the suggestion, Roseman!
1/22: Day 31, Day 26 out of rockwool for SLH and WC, Day 20 for BK
Air temp 71.7F, RH 37%
WC:
pH 6.1, Water temp 68.9F
PPM 542, EC .76
White Castle
White Castle - I love the look of this girl so much! She's the lushest of them all, and she's getting a nice rootball badunkadunk!
SLH:
pH 6.2, Water temp 70.6F
PPM 504, EC .71
Super Lemon Haze
Super Lemon Haze Roots
BK:
pH 6.3, Water temp 69.4F
PPM 627, EC .88
Bubba Kush - fat leaves, like an indica should be!
Bubba Kush Roots
1/22: Day 31, Day 26 out of rockwool for SLH and WC, Day 20 for BK
Air temp 71.7F, RH 37%
WC:
pH 6.1, Water temp 68.9F
PPM 542, EC .76
White Castle
White Castle - I love the look of this girl so much! She's the lushest of them all, and she's getting a nice rootball badunkadunk!
SLH:
pH 6.2, Water temp 70.6F
PPM 504, EC .71
Super Lemon Haze
Super Lemon Haze Roots
BK:
pH 6.3, Water temp 69.4F
PPM 627, EC .88
Bubba Kush - fat leaves, like an indica should be!
Bubba Kush Roots
FrostyBuds
New Member
PPG, got things in gear! Getting some super roots going on now. 3 days and you got so much more root growth. Keep up the simplicity, plants are on the way to being some nice bushes!
- Thread starter
- #80
PowerpuffGirl
New Member
Yeah, I think I got a lot of good info which turned these girls around lickety-split! Great knowledge & experience around here and helpful ppl sharing it!