Pookss's 2x4x6 High Brix Garden FT, Smurfzilla, Dark Plasma #9 & Cereal Milk

I'd say they're ready to be topped but would you top them all then decide which ones to keep once you can determine sex? You could destress but then you'll have to wait until a week has passed from this last destress. So you have not sprayed brix yet? I think they're ready, wait a couple days though. If you'll only have 3 plants, train as you normally would.
 
I'd say they're ready to be topped but would you top them all then decide which ones to keep once you can determine sex? You could destress but then you'll have to wait until a week has passed from this last destress. So you have not sprayed brix yet? I think they're ready, wait a couple days though. If you'll only have 3 plants, train as you normally would.


I would normally top them all even if some will get culled.

When in the feeding schedule would you top? Meaning, would you rather top the day before a drench? A day after foliar?


They haven’t had any brix. Just one transplant drench followed by 1/2 destress foliar.
 
Go ahead and top when you normally would. I think soon. Destress is not needed but you could if it was at least a week after this last 1/2 strength one. Go ahead and brix in a couple days, just under full strength, for those plants I'd mix 3oz of water with just under 3ml of brix.
 
Go ahead and top when you normally would. I think soon. Destress is not needed but you could if it was at least a week after this last 1/2 strength one. Go ahead and brix in a couple days, just under full strength, for those plants I'd mix 3oz of water with just under 3ml of brix.


Right on. I'll top them tonight or tomorrow.

Next watering is straight water followed by their first brix spray!
 
Yep, they grow well.



How does training and stress affect your brix numbers? I take it they recover just like non brix plants. Day or two and they bounce back.


I toped my whole tent last night at the sixth or seventh node. I will top again in a week or so. They’ll start getting tied down this week too.
 
I took Brix readings from each of my plants, weekly, for a couple years, and I didn't find a very close correlation between "training" and Brix. The numbers usually ranged between 6 and 14 and rarely changed more than a point or two between readings. I'd find more variation from hour to hour than I'd get from week to week. If, for instance you only measured the daily temp at 2:00 each afternoon, you could see how the weather changed over time, but it wouldn't tell you much about each day. Brix is a lot like that.:)

Foliars and drenches applied in the morning will affect Brix by the afternoon - it's a very quick reaction - a moving target. So I concentrate more on keeping things balanced over time. If I saw that Brix had dropped a couple points between readings I knew that that plant needed some extra attention, and I'd look it over and try to decide what it needed.

I also never varied from the schedule and ran on the light end of dosages, so it was easier to see a difference if I doubled up on a drench. Now I'm just using intuition, and doing a little better ... maybe. At least the lack of rigidity is easier and more fun for me. But the schedule works - no good reason to vary from it until you get a feel for the natural way that plants grow under this method.

I actually don't remember a plant "needing" DeStress because of training. But I never did the harsh stuff - just topping and bending. If you do a lot of branch tying and leaf stripping, then it's probably a good idea, otherwise a regular shot of DeStress every week or two never caused me any issues.

:Namaste:
 
I took Brix readings from each of my plants, weekly, for a couple years, and I didn't find a very close correlation between "training" and Brix. The numbers usually ranged between 6 and 14 and rarely changed more than a point or two between readings. I'd find more variation from hour to hour than I'd get from week to week. If, for instance you only measured the daily temp at 2:00 each afternoon, you could see how the weather changed over time, but it wouldn't tell you much about each day. Brix is a lot like that.:)

Foliars and drenches applied in the morning will affect Brix by the afternoon - it's a very quick reaction - a moving target. So I concentrate more on keeping things balanced over time. If I saw that Brix had dropped a couple points between readings I knew that that plant needed some extra attention, and I'd look it over and try to decide what it needed.

I also never varied from the schedule and ran on the light end of dosages, so it was easier to see a difference if I doubled up on a drench. Now I'm just using intuition, and doing a little better ... maybe. At least the lack of rigidity is easier and more fun for me. But the schedule works - no good reason to vary from it until you get a feel for the natural way that plants grow under this method.

I actually don't remember a plant "needing" DeStress because of training. But I never did the harsh stuff - just topping and bending. If you do a lot of branch tying and leaf stripping, then it's probably a good idea, otherwise a regular shot of DeStress every week or two never caused me any issues.

:Namaste:
Awesome reply man. Loved every word of it.

Girls will be trained as normal! Schedule will be followed to a T (if soil moisture allows)

I just checked on them today, smurfzillas are really not happy with this humidity. The dark plasmas don’t seem to mind and the cereal milk is doing decently. Overall they’re mostly all droopy. Highest rh I’ve read with lights on is 40
 
1725034



Never noticed this happen. Possible node starting below cotyledon.
 
I can not add anymore to Graytails explanation, that was awesome. I got the meter and have never used it after reading how it changes that much. Thanks for confirming my decision.

I would remove that little sucker. I don't think it will ever amount to anything, there are those that just hate removing leaves. I like to pluck leaves a few each day if needed instead of a bunch all at once.
 
I can not add anymore to Graytails explanation, that was awesome. I got the meter and have never used it after reading how it changes that much. Thanks for confirming my decision.

I would remove that little sucker. I don't think it will ever amount to anything, there are those that just hate removing leaves. I like to pluck leaves a few each day if needed instead of a bunch all at once.


Yeah, that response was exactly the info I needed.

I was planning on plucking that little mutant branch. They were topped already, lst I’ll start today.
 
I hate the winter. Mostly all the smurfzillas are hating life. Some more than others. They all have this going on in some form, but he plant pictured is the worst.

1725736


What exactly may be happening? It’s clearly being caused by the low rh. But on a deeper level I’m curious. To me they look hungry. But I’d love for someone to chime in.
 
temps - lights off 70 Lights on 80

Todays RH ranges - Lights off 57% lights on 34%

Only the smurfzillas are showing any of this. The other strains seem to be doing pretty ok.

those are very respectable numbers, even the 34 is ok. More pics. Have you given Brix? What was the ratio you used for the destress and for the drench, trans right? It looks like Brix burn but i don't think you Brixed yet. Calling in the big guns but add some pics if you can. @Duggan @Graytail @neikodog @TheGreenYeti
 
those are very respectable numbers, even the 34 is ok. More pics. Have you given Brix? What was the ratio you used for the destress and for the drench, trans right? It looks like Brix burn but i don't think you Brixed yet. Calling in the big guns but add some pics if you can. @Duggan @Graytail @neikodog @TheGreenYeti


Yeah I haven’t used any brix yet. They’ve gotten one transplant drench. I used 1oz of transplant in a 5 gallon bucket of filtered watered. I than added 1tsp of tea.

That was at then end of a day for the plants. Lights off. Lights back on, sprayed destress mixed at 1/64 about an hour and a half.

Waited a full day or two and than they were topped at the very newest node.
 
At 34% RH, you should probably reduce the high temp. That's way out of the VPD zone.

I've never had any luck correcting that issue with our nutes. I tend to look at it from a metabolic standpoint. The symptom is a nutrient issue. It can be caused by the demand on the system as much as not enough supply. So if temps are relatively high and humidity is very low, leaf transpiration it at a peak - a lot of water is getting passed through them, and that means a lot of water drawn through the roots, and it gets hard for everything to keep up.

So you could try to drench the plant back to perfection, but it will be easier and better to reduce the demand by reducing the heat. I have humidity under 20% at times and the only way my plants survive is to keep high temps around 75.

In any case, those leaves are expendable - not important in the larger picture. But if you get your humidity up, that'll all disappear.

:Namaste:
 
At 34% RH, you should probably reduce the high temp. That's way out of the VPD zone.

I've never had any luck correcting that issue with our nutes. I tend to look at it from a metabolic standpoint. The symptom is a nutrient issue. It can be caused by the demand on the system as much as not enough supply. So if temps are relatively high and humidity is very low, leaf transpiration it at a peak - a lot of water is getting passed through them, and that means a lot of water drawn through the roots, and it gets hard for everything to keep up.

So you could try to drench the plant back to perfection, but it will be easier and better to reduce the demand by reducing the heat. I have humidity under 20% at times and the only way my plants survive is to keep high temps around 75.

In any case, those leaves are expendable - not important in the larger picture. But if you get your humidity up, that'll all disappear.

:Namaste:

That was my understanding of what was happening as well, just wanted a more experienced person to pinpoint it. I've been dimming my light anytime i notice it get near 80 with low RH.
 
Back
Top Bottom