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- #21
Please help: rust spots, holes in leaves
- Thread starter KapnKush
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sKyKAI
Well-Known Member
When you caught the issue was it at the bottom with the elder fan leaves moving upward, or were the symptoms starting at the top of the plant with the newer growth?
Roots are looking good!
A cal mag product will definitely improve things for the OP (preferably with a 1-0-0 or 0-0-0 NPK). Assuming he isn't using one already. For the K boost, a bit of kelp is a great source, there's a few brands that are hydro compatible.
So you're using the Flora series. Just the basic trio or do you have any of the other products?
Same for hydro.
A cal mag product will definitely improve things for the OP (preferably with a 1-0-0 or 0-0-0 NPK). Assuming he isn't using one already. For the K boost, a bit of kelp is a great source, there's a few brands that are hydro compatible.
This is the feeding schedule I've been using
So you're using the Flora series. Just the basic trio or do you have any of the other products?
Have you been using the ratios in the feed schedule?
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- #24
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- #25
I have been using 3/4 of the ratio i thought maybe that was the problem I started using the whole ratio
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
Can you describe oh drift in your own words? I keep 5gallon buckets with airstones in them. I grow organic an ph to 5.9-6.2. I cal-mag and ph the water but by the time I water again which is about every three to four days, I have to ph again. What about cal-mag? Does it keep for awhile?
sKyKAI
Well-Known Member
There’s a possibility its a Manganese(Mn) deficiency: The young leaves showing interveinal chlorosis followed by necrotic spots..? gradually spread to older leaves. General plant growth slows down or stops altogether. The solution is the same as for iron and zinc deficiency.
Im not sure if you mentioned a flush; that can always help; you probably want a slightly lower pH if this is the problem.
Im not sure if you mentioned a flush; that can always help; you probably want a slightly lower pH if this is the problem.
My 2 cents/thoughts:
Pick yourself up some cal mag
GH calimagic works great
Cal mag always goes first,
(give it a bit between each additive)
Then add micro
Grow
Bloom
Then PH adjust.
I'd recommend starting around 150PPM of Calimagic (open for debate, but should be an easy/good starting point).
Remember, your adding 150PPM worth of cal mag, so that needs to be taken into account (not to make too strong a solution) with your final PPM
The damaged leaves won't heal, but don't start taking them off yet. At this point it's a chronic deficiency, and will be harder to get ahead of, but not impossible and the cal mag will help improve the plant.
Some other additives to consider: kelp product (RAW or Ocean Magic) and/or Liquid koolbloom. You can get by without those, but need the cal mag.
Pick yourself up some cal mag
GH calimagic works great
Cal mag always goes first,
(give it a bit between each additive)
Then add micro
Grow
Bloom
Then PH adjust.
I'd recommend starting around 150PPM of Calimagic (open for debate, but should be an easy/good starting point).
Remember, your adding 150PPM worth of cal mag, so that needs to be taken into account (not to make too strong a solution) with your final PPM
The damaged leaves won't heal, but don't start taking them off yet. At this point it's a chronic deficiency, and will be harder to get ahead of, but not impossible and the cal mag will help improve the plant.
Some other additives to consider: kelp product (RAW or Ocean Magic) and/or Liquid koolbloom. You can get by without those, but need the cal mag.
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- #29
yes. i'd use it.
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- #31
are you saying you're at 1725 ppm ? are you using a ppm meter ?
that's as hot as the sun. h202 shouldn't add ppm, if i subtract the h202 i wind up at 1475 which is still hotter than the hottest run i ever had. 1200 is pretty much a ceiling at the height of flower in most grows.
plants themselves don't look too bad. some twisting and claw i'd expect with heavy nutes. interested to see where this goes.
that's as hot as the sun. h202 shouldn't add ppm, if i subtract the h202 i wind up at 1475 which is still hotter than the hottest run i ever had. 1200 is pretty much a ceiling at the height of flower in most grows.
plants themselves don't look too bad. some twisting and claw i'd expect with heavy nutes. interested to see where this goes.
here's a handy generic chart if you are looking for a ballpark figure of where you should be for ppm ..
you should be somewhere within that range.
you should be somewhere within that range.
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- #34
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- #35
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- #36
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- #37
have you got a ppm/ec meter ?
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- #39
the GH chart looks a touch hotter than i remember. a common approach in dwc / rdwc is to run 1/2 nutes. i don't think that would work in this case.
you should probably cut back the base nutes. i would shoot for the ppm numbers that are listed by GH. if you add nutrients on top you have to cut the base back to make headroom. re-read @Rexer post on the calmag ...
you can't just add the kelp and calmag on top of the base nutes. you have to make room for them.
also h202 shouldn't raise ppm unless you have some kinda awful product. h2o2 can be simply added.
cut back on your base nutes and /or the amendments.
you have to bring everything you feed in to balance and keep within the target ppm range while doing so.
you should probably cut back the base nutes. i would shoot for the ppm numbers that are listed by GH. if you add nutrients on top you have to cut the base back to make headroom. re-read @Rexer post on the calmag ...
you can't just add the kelp and calmag on top of the base nutes. you have to make room for them.
also h202 shouldn't raise ppm unless you have some kinda awful product. h2o2 can be simply added.
cut back on your base nutes and /or the amendments.
you have to bring everything you feed in to balance and keep within the target ppm range while doing so.
