Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam

:party: Happy 4th of July to my American friends (with apologies to the Brits)!

I'm celebrating by taking some cuts and starting a new experiment!

The 3 jar experiment is far enough along that I'm satisfied that the results will be as expected with the RWC jar better than the leaf mold soil which, in turn, is better than the straight rain water. At least for the purposes of breaking down plant material to make JLF.

This means that the RWC's one is going to be the process I use.

Sooo, if the RWC's microbes are the superior way to break down plant material, and JMS is a good way to multiply microbes, it would stand to reason that using JMS from RWC should work even better and faster (more microbes doing more work) than RWC straight out of the bin.

So let's find out.

I have about a gallon of HTF remnants from the HTF KNF extract I did (got about 20 oz of liquid from about 4 gal of plant matter :confused:) and I split it into two jars. I also had a third, smaller jar off to the side that I'm including in this next round.

Jar 1: 1 Tbl of RWC and rain water to cover
Jar 2: JMS made a few days ago from 1 Tbl of RWC and rain water to cover
Jar 3: 1 tsp of RWC and 1 tsp of potato flakes and rain water to cover

Jar 3 is to see, if the JMS does work faster/better, is it necessary to make it ahead of time or can you combine the making of JMS with the breakdown of the plant matter. If it doesn't make much difference it sure would be easier and more convenient to do both steps at once.

So that's it. I should have initial results in a couple of weeks.

.........(So many abbreviations, even my head hurts) ;)

HTF.....Horsetail Fern
JLF.......Jadam Liquid Fertilizer
JMS......Jadam Microbial Solution
KNF.....Korean Natural Farming
RWC....Red Worm Castings
 
Highya Azimuth,

I remember reading about the microbe solution. It said to watch the solution so that when the bubbles have almost stopped, the microbe solution needs to be used. He also said the microbes will only live 12 hrs after that. You need a fresh microbe solution to do justice to the experiment. Hope that helps. Happy Smokin'
 
*** Game on! ***

I've decided to start the organic fertilizer experiment on a real grow, start to finish (hopefully) in an inert media. Instead of a 50/50 peat/perlite mix, I've decided to go 100% perlite in a Hempy bucket.

Today, with sterilized scissors, I took a cut and soaked it in a 1:750 mix of my aloe/seaweed/willow FPJ for a bit so it could hopefully suck up some of the grow enzymes and hormones internally. Then, I scraped the stem lightly and stuck it in a chunk of aloe while I cleaned up some of the lower leaves.

From there it was into a perlite hempy solo cup, watered in with the soak water mix and then capped with a dome that I sprayed with tap water.

I plan to leave it for 2-3 days, and then will start periodically raising the dome and start on a regular watering schedule to hopefully entice it to pop some roots.

From there I will be using a various mix of my diy organic fertilizers to hopefully find a combination that works or until the plant succumbs to this treatment.

The prevailing wisdom says that organics and hempy reservoirs don't mix, but I'm hoping to prove 'em wrong. Remember, it's for science!

I'm excited to get this next chapter started!
 
Don't forget about the microbes. You'll need to incorporate them into your grow somehow. Happy Smokin'
 
Don't forget about the microbes. You'll need to incorporate them into your grow somehow. Happy Smokin'
Yeah, I'm not sure. The stuff I'll be giving is presumably predigested and readily plant available. No microbes needed for delivery.

That'll be one of the things I'll test using my vermicompost microbial solution. Does it add anything to the party or not.

One of the benefits of perlite Hempy is you're not supposed to be able to over water it, and waterings should actually be pretty frequent, like every two or three days if not every day.

So that means lots more opportunities to try different things.
 
There's a guy (Hyene Merica) who does Bado Buckets. An automated hempy design that uses chemical nutes. He does a great job! With organic growing, the nutes need the microbes to break down the nutrients. And with hempy, you can water at least 2 times a day, and most likely 3 times. Yeah, a playground for experimenting! Happy Smokin'
 
I'll be using vermicast microbes for the Jadam nutes and brown sugar for the KNF version to pre-digest
the organics that the microbes in the soil would normally be required for. That's what I mean when I say "plant available" and so I question whether added microbes would even be helpful.

Could even be a detriment if they simply add more organic material to the rez that then goes anaerobic. But, we'll see. I plan to test lots of combinations.
 
Welcome, NTH!

We're gonna find out some stuff for sure. Not certain if it'll be good or bad, but we'll answer some questions. Glad to have you along.
Thanks! I’ve been doing some reading on this method of growing and I am really interested in giving it a go! Plan on building a green house for a legit garden and of course applying some of this to cannabis also. I have a good compost pile started but am looking to get some liquid fertilizer mixes started also. Plan on growing two plants of the same strain my next grow. One with a soil /nute combo such as fox farm OF/MC and one plant with JADAM type stuff. Thanks again for having me! Peace!

NTH
 
Today I transplanted my ACDC plant from soil to perlite hempy. I pulled out as much of the soil and organic matter as possible and then repeatedly dunked the roots in a pot of water to get out as much of the fines as possible. I'm pretty confident I got most of what was getable.

The hempy pot I put it into has a plug of perlite that goes to the center bottom of the pot which is surrounded by hydroton in the reservoir. Then I filled in the pot around the roots with perlite, and topped with a hydroton cap to help keep algae out and the top of the perlite damp, and then watered it in with an aloe/seaweed solution from my FPJ collection at 1:750. I put it back in the cab, but off to the side out of direct light to let it recover a bit.

I did a test comparing Hydroton and perlite in the reservoir to see which would hold more water. As I expected, the hydroton won, but only by a little (less than 10%). But, it is heavier and I figure a bit more weight down low will help with stability. Probably not enough to matter once the plant grows bigger, but it makes me feel better.

I'll now be able to see how well the organic nutes work over the next week or so with no help from anything in the medium. Hopefully they'll get the plant healthy, green and growing well. We'll see.

My plan is to make cuttings from it once I see my first effort with my Blue Kush is successful. From there I'll move on to my two Northern Lights.

At least that's the plan
 
Today's update.

It's Day 3 for the Blue Kush cut in the rooting cup (BKU R3). I took the dome off for a bit, topped up the rez with aloe/seaweed/willow fpj and then remisted the dome and set it back in place. The cut looks happier in the hempy cloning bucket than it did on the plant. Leaves are praying, and there is good color and smell. Let's hope that continues.

It's Day 1 of hempy veg for the ACDC transplant from soil to perlite hempy (AC HV1). I sprayed it with aloe/seaweed fpj and topped up the rez with Horsetail Fern FPJ at a 1:750 dilution. That will be the fertigation for all of next week so I can see how that particular concoction does.

I chose the FPJ version instead of the JLF because it is a cleaner product with no fine particulate matter. I plan to fertigate every day to help keep the rez refreshed and the nutes flowing. I do plan to cycle thru my various potions as we go forward.

So far this plant looks much the same as it did yesterday and I suspect it is trying to make sense of this new environment it has been thrust into.
 
BKU R4
Took the dome off a couple of times today for an hour or so. Cut still looks like it is lovin' life. No rez flush today. Going to let the aloe/seaweed/willow bath go one more day. Remisted the dome and reset in place.

AC HV2
This one is looking a bit crispy today which I figure was from yesterday's feeding of full strength HTF FPJ so I took it to the sink and flushed it well with tap water. I did a little "root pruning" when I was separating out the organic matter and my sense is it needed more recovery time. And when I say root pruning, I mean I ripped off the bottom chunk of roots that were dangling and seemed detached from the others. Next time I'll be a bit more thoughtful.

Kind of a good sign though that the nutes seemed strong enough to do some damage at that dilution. I'll give the plant another flush tomorrow along with very low strength nutes and hopefully it will perk up.
 
BKU R4
Took the dome off a couple of times today for an hour or so. Cut still looks like it is lovin' life. No rez flush today. Going to let the aloe/seaweed/willow bath go one more day. Remisted the dome and reset in place.

AC HV2
This one is looking a bit crispy today which I figure was from yesterday's feeding of full strength HTF FPJ so I took it to the sink and flushed it well with tap water. I did a little "root pruning" when I was separating out the organic matter and my sense is it needed more recovery time. And when I say root pruning, I mean I ripped off the bottom chunk of roots that were dangling and seemed detached from the others. Next time I'll be a bit more thoughtful.

Kind of a good sign though that the nutes seemed strong enough to do some damage at that dilution. I'll give the plant another flush tomorrow along with very low strength nutes and hopefully it will perk up.
cant see any pics with the posts , will running it under tap water not kill off your microbes and add chlorine to the soil or is this a different grow , sorry i am easy confused and have not been able to keep up with lots of growers


edit , had a little dig around and came across this


IMPACT OF WATERING GARDENS WITH CHLORINATED WATER​

Many water providers add chlorine to drinking water to keep it clean for human consumption. Chlorine prevents bacterial growth in water distribution systems. Many residents use chlorinated water to irrigate their lawn and garden. If chlorine is added to drinking water to kill bacteria, what impact does it have on beneficial soil microorganisms? Does it kill beneficial organisms in compost piles, too? Researchers have found that chlorinated drinking water may kill a number of microorganisms in soil or a compost pile. However, their reproduction rate is so rapid that populations rebound in a short time. Under normal conditions, chlorinated water will not threaten microorganism populations. Microorganisms reproduce rapidly. In one study, researchers continuously applied highly chlorinated water to soil for 126 days. Two days after they stopped, the soil microorganism populations reached pretreatment levels at all depths of soil.

One reason chlorinate water has little impact is that chlorine binds to soil particle surfaces. This immobilizes chlorine and reduces its ability to kill microorganisms. The organisms in the topmost surface of soil or a compost pile may be affected after irrigation but as the water moves downward little chlorine remains. In one study, researchers found that water chlorinated at 5 parts per million killed organisms only in the top half inch of soil. Organisms deeper than one half inch were thriving.

The amount of chlorine in drinking water is quite low. In order to kill soil microorganisms to 6 inch soil depth, water containing 65 parts per million of chlorine was required in one study. Drinking water usually contains much lower chlorine levels. For example, Colorado Springs Utilities water contains between 0.05 to 0.90 parts per million of chlorine, 70 times below the threshold level.
 
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