Osmocote Plus Plant Food: Discuss Its Use With Cannabis Here!

Ahh, so you don't have to click here is my SLH...day 44 of 70.
Super_Lemon_Haze_on_day_44.jpg


:peace: from little garden.

Very nice Mountain High! This picture makes me want to try soil and CRFs... :yummy:
 
I know I've seen it in this thread or one like it, but now I can't find it(go figure).
Anyway, what's the mixture rate when using Osmocote Plus with perlite in hempys?

Thanks
 
Just bought 2 xj-g13 clones, going to put straight to 12/12 in a 3 gallon pot w/3tbls of OC+, perlite and ffof. Can i get away with just using distilled water?

You might try mixing it with your tap water to get some of the minerals in there since according to DocBud OC+ is designed to work with tap.

How bad is your tap water?
 
....new from Scotts

Osmocote Fusion

Introducing Scotts® Osmocote® with Fusion Technology

Scotts® Fusion Technology was specially developed by Scotts Professional for surface applications in container nursery stock. This new, proprietary advancement works to optimize your fertilizer investment by bonding the nutrients to the surface of the growing media. Years of research, testing and actual field use prove Osmocote® with Fusion Technology is more efficient and effective when compared to other surface applied fertilizer products.

This technology is currently available in a 2nd Generation Osmocote® Pro 19-6-9, 5-6 mo. formulation. Supply of this product is limited. Consult with your Scotts Territory Manager for availability and to arrange a personal demonstration of the "no-spill prill" in action.
 
pots in nurseries must get knocked over a lot, because keeping the prills in the pot seems to be a big concern, lol.

I guess they just sprinkle it on top without working it in, so I can see how sticky prills would be an advantage.

I recall hearing somewhere that earthworms are a good "canary in a coal mine" as far as soil health goes, so I guess the fact that OC+ doesn't kill them means that it's compatible with beneficial fungi and bacteria?
 
pots in nurseries must get knocked over a lot, because keeping the prills in the pot seems to be a big concern, lol.

I guess they just sprinkle it on top without working it in, so I can see how sticky prills would be an advantage.

I recall hearing somewhere that earthworms are a good "canary in a coal mine" as far as soil health goes, so I guess the fact that OC+ doesn't kill them means that it's compatible with beneficial fungi and bacteria?

My raised beds are like an earthworm metropolis. I've used Osmocote for 3 seasons.

During the winter, I rip everything out and put a 3 inch layer of compost on top of the beds.
 
I recall hearing somewhere that earthworms are a good "canary in a coal mine" as far as soil health goes, so I guess the fact that OC+ doesn't kill them means that it's compatible with beneficial fungi and bacteria?

Yes, that's the idea. That's why I keep suggesting the Espoma products, in particular the BioTone Plus to be mixed with OC+ in containers. Not just for the organic nutrient sources, but for the bacteria and fungi populations which feed off of those sources. I find it hard to believe that soil in particular is needed for exquisite taste. Why not soilless + microbial life?

The grow shop near here never has coir in stock anymore, so a transition to Fafard brand peat/pine bark based mixes has begun. The price is nice - pretty much comparable to mixing media from scratch. The Fafard organic Potting mix and/or Fafard Growers Mix #3 to be exact. I've got some seedlings in the former that are kicking ass.....My last purchase from the grow shop - a bag of Roots Organic Potting Soil that was mixed with OC+ and additional Kelp meal... And as an alternative to the Espoma products, a garden center near here does occasionally have in stock their own proprietary blend of bacteria and fungi which I may try.
 
Yes, that's the idea. That's why I keep suggesting the Espoma products, in particular the BioTone Plus to be mixed with OC+ in containers. Not just for the organic nutrient sources, but for the bacteria and fungi populations which feed off of those sources. I find it hard to believe that soil in particular is needed for exquisite taste. Why not soilless + microbial life?

The grow shop near here never has coir in stock anymore, so a transition to Fafard brand peat/pine bark based mixes has begun. The price is nice - pretty much comparable to mixing media from scratch. The Fafard organic Potting mix and/or Fafard Growers Mix #3 to be exact. I've got some seedlings in the former that are kicking ass.....My last purchase from the grow shop - a bag of Roots Organic Potting Soil that was mixed with OC+ and additional Kelp meal... And as an alternative to the Espoma products, a garden center near here does occasionally have in stock their own proprietary blend of bacteria and fungi which I may try.

The bacteria need something to feed on....

It's not bacteria that give the taste, it's nutrients. A plant food that was able to give all the subtle forms of nutrients would taste the same as a soil grown plant.

That's a pretty tall order to a bottled plant food. We probably don't even know all the different things that the bacteria can produce from the soil ingredients....let alone make a food that could duplicate it.
 
The bacteria need something to feed on....

It's not bacteria that give the taste, it's nutrients. A plant food that was able to give all the subtle forms of nutrients would taste the same as a soil grown plant.

Hi Doc, if my previous post wasn't clear, that was the point I was trying to get across.

Soil or Soilless + a complete Food web = probable best flavors

Add OC+ and it should mean faster growth and bigger yields. The Holy Grail of growing?

That .jpg is an excerpt from the Espoma BioTone Plus label...

BTW, don't skip the new thread I posted, it should be right up your alley.
 
Hi Doc, if my previous post wasn't clear, that was the point I was trying to get across.

Soil or Soilless + a complete Food web = probable best flavors

And OC+ and it should mean faster growth and bigger yields than merely relying on the latter. The Holy Grail of growing?

That .jpg is an excerpt from the Espoma BioTone Plus label...

BTW, don't skip the new thread I posted, it should be right up your alley.

thanks bro....I misread you.

I'll say this, comparing my organic pots to the OC+ pots is nite and day. The OC+ plants are larger and will yield much more than the organic.....although the latter have more resin and smell a bit stronger.

I'm thinking a combination of the two approaches might be a winning ticket.
 
Yes, that's the idea. That's why I keep suggesting the Espoma products, in particular the BioTone Plus to be mixed with OC+ in containers. Not just for the organic nutrient sources, but for the bacteria and fungi populations which feed off of those sources. I find it hard to believe that soil in particular is needed for exquisite taste. Why not soilless + microbial life?

The grow shop near here never has coir in stock anymore, so a transition to Fafard brand peat/pine bark based mixes has begun. The price is nice - pretty much comparable to mixing media from scratch. The Fafard organic Potting mix and/or Fafard Growers Mix #3 to be exact. I've got some seedlings in the former that are kicking ass.....My last purchase from the grow shop - a bag of Roots Organic Potting Soil that was mixed with OC+ and additional Kelp meal... And as an alternative to the Espoma products, a garden center near here does occasionally have in stock their own proprietary blend of bacteria and fungi which I may try.

....new from Scotts

Osmocote Fusion

Introducing Scotts® Osmocote® with Fusion Technology

Scotts® Fusion Technology was specially developed by Scotts Professional for surface applications in container nursery stock. This new, proprietary advancement works to optimize your fertilizer investment by bonding the nutrients to the surface of the growing media. Years of research, testing and actual field use prove Osmocote® with Fusion Technology is more efficient and effective when compared to other surface applied fertilizer products.

This technology is currently available in a 2nd Generation Osmocote® Pro 19-6-9, 5-6 mo. formulation. Supply of this product is limited. Consult with your Scotts Territory Manager for availability and to arrange a personal demonstration of the "no-spill prill" in action.

+Rep! Thanks for both of these pieces of information. I've been looking into beneficials for my hempys, and the Scotts® Fusion Technology looks great for my "regular" outside garden. The wind has been known to throw a container or two to the ground, out there.
 
Hey guys.

I used osmocote on a couple of plants when I re-potted them last time. I was impressed with the results and want to use it again.

My question is on using Osmocote+ right from the start with seedlings. Have any of you planted a seed right in soil/soiless with Osmocote already mixed in? Would it be too strong for a seedling?
 
Hey guys.

I used osmocote on a couple of plants when I re-potted them last time. I was impressed with the results and want to use it again.

My question is on using Osmocote+ right from the start with seedlings. Have any of you planted a seed right in soil/soiless with Osmocote already mixed in? Would it be too strong for a seedling?

Welcome Scaryshark! I think it depends on your medium, with soil you may not need any but it won't hurt the plants. The prills only release what they need when they need it.

I popped my seeds into mini-hempies - small cups with all perlite on the bottom, a mix a soil and perlite in the middle and a layer of soil on top. I mixed in some OC+ prills - 5 or 10. I wish I'd used more as the girls started showing a N deficiency prior to transplant. They were in those cups for about 3 weeks.

Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Is anyone using another full spectrum nutrient with OC+? I tried to use Dutch Masters Gold Flower, and while it does seem to push the trichs out, it also seems to burn the leaves at only 600 ppm. The run-off from the OC+ was under 300 ppm, so I thought I was safe...

... but it could also be the various deficiencies I've experienced from my PH swings making the leaf tips and edges brown...

Maybe it's not all that important how the leaves look... I've got some ugly leaves, but some pretty buds... ;)
 
Yep. Nice green leaves for most of flower provide the energy to push out those buds....but I'm becoming intrigued with what the organic soil gurus are doing, where the plant basically turns fall colors towards the end. i'm not talking about deficiencies, or nitrogen starvation....but a natural pigment change that seems to take place in that medium.

I've got a few doing that, purple, yellow, light green......we'll see how it comes out.
 
you should have no problem using it right from the start. PPM's are rarely over 300 with OC+.

Thanks Bluedog and Doc.

I am also using air pots this time and wanted to put the seeds right into the 1.5 gallon pots from the start. I am growing 12/12 from the start and I may be able to go right to the end without re-potting.
 
Is anyone using another full spectrum nutrient with OC+? I tried to use Dutch Masters Gold Flower, and while it does seem to push the trichs out, it also seems to burn the leaves at only 600 ppm. The run-off from the OC+ was under 300 ppm, so I thought I was safe...

... but it could also be the various deficiencies I've experienced from my PH swings making the leaf tips and edges brown...

Maybe it's not all that important how the leaves look... I've got some ugly leaves, but some pretty buds... ;)

I tried it in bloom with a 600w HPS and quickly (think it was two full spectrum feedings in one week on top of the OC+) scorched the leaf tips as you are describing.
 
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