Osmocote Plus Plant Food: Discuss Its Use With Cannabis Here!

Nirvana flower tabs

Anyone ever heard of or used these things

A: Flowertabs are nothing short of fantastic - the foolproof way to fertilise!

Just as Soiltabs help your seedlings develop into strong, bushy, mature plants, so Flowertabs give your cannabis plants the energy to burst into exuberant and abundant bloom. Each slow-release biodegradable tab contains exactly the right mixture of nutrients for flowering cannabis plants.

Have you ever had a plant that took forever to finish flowering, or turned out to have a disappointing yield? Even when you've managed to raise your plants successfully through the vegetative period, there are still plenty of factors that can adversely affect your harvest.

In addition to nitrogen, cannabis plants need higher levels of potassium and phosphorus to generate enough energy for ripening and growing flowers. During bloom, the soil is often exhausted of the natural resources and buffers your plants so desperately need. However, over-fertilising is also a known risk at this stage. Don't take any risks - go low-maintenance with Flowertabs!

Growing marijuana sometimes does seem to require an awful lot of expertise. To make your life easier, we used our accumulated knowledge to create Flowertabs, the foolproof way to fertilize. In addition to calculated amounts of minerals, humic acid and trace elements especially aimed at flowering cannabis plants, Flowertabs contain unique and secret bacterial and fungal ingredients to maximise your yields.

Although we cannot disclose the exact composition of our products, we will lift a tip of the veil and say... Mycorrhiza! A symbiotic relationship between the roots and beneficient fungi from the Flowertabs effectively extends the range of the roots. The fungi attach themselves to the root tips and form a finely branching network through which your plants draw moisture and nutrients much more efficiently. In this way, Flowertabs reinforce your plant's root system, and double, triple, even quadruple its reach.

Flowertabs will slowly biodegrade, releasing measured doses of nutrients, while the fungal ingredients strengthen and extend your roots just when your plants need it the most. Just push a tab about 2 inches into the soil near the main stem of your plant. Water as normal, and stand back - therrrrre she blooms! (OK, it's not literally that fast. But you will see a remarkable difference once the flowering kicks off!)
 
Look what has hit the markets in Australia.

Docbud, I don't know if we're going to see this stateside. I fired off an email to Scotts USA asking about that.

Osmocote® Trace Element and Organic Fertilisers & Potting & Planting Mixes - Scotts Australia

Five products:

Osmocote® Plus Organics for...
All purpose gardening
Vegetables, tomatoes & herbs
Fruit & citrus
Roses, gardenias & azaleas
Establishing seedlings and new plants quickly

Osmocote® Plus Organics All Purpose - Scotts Australia

How Osmocote® Plus Organics works

Original Osmocote® controlled release fertililser granules release nutrients when plants need them most for up to 6 months.

Added organic matter such as composted manure, blood and bone, seaweed and fish organically enrich the soil and encourage beneficial microbial and earthworm activity.

Natural gypsum is a clay breaker that improves the soil and adds calcium.

The addition of an excellent wetting agent enhances water absorption into the soil and helps plants take up more nutrients.

[..]

How to use

Using the rate recommended on the container, for best results, mix through the planting soil, if planting, or sprinkle over the soil surface for existing plants and gardens.

Always water after application and avoid contact of the product with foliage and plant stems and trunks.

Sizes
Available in 1.5kg and 3.5kg pails.

[..]

Quick facts

Osmocote® Plus Organics All Purpose has
an NPK of 13.4 : 1.5 : 4.9 and contains

added organic matter
natural gypsum
wetting agent
a range of essential trace elements​


and this is interesting, note about standard Osmocote:

Questions that Gardeners Ask about Osmocote® - Scotts Australia

3. Does Osmocote harm earthworms?

Not at all. Research has shown that earthworm populations can be 400% higher in areas fertilised with Osmocote, compared to areas where traditional agricultural practices are used.


I assume by traditional, they mean conventional, as opposed to organic.
 
heard back

Thank you for your interest in Scotts and for the opportunity to help you with your lawn and garden endeavors.

Unfortunately at this time we do not have information of Osmocot Plus Organics being available in the United States. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.

Again, thank you for taking the time to contact us and for your interest in Scotts. Please feel free to contact our company anytime we may be of assistance.
 
that post should be put on here also, its truly great info to know about.

As you know, Nutricote and Dynamite are the same thing. Nutricote's been used for a few decades by the large agricultural interests. Except: Florikan figured that by re-branding it, they could get folks to pay $7-8 for 2lbs instead of $52 for 80lbs - and you don't have to have minimum order quantities of 5-6 bags just to get them to deliver. Not everyone's got an orchard...the new marketing seems to be working, too.
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Folks might find this interesting:

Influence of Temperature and Time on Nutrient Release Patterns of Osmocote Plus™, Nutricote™, and Polyon™ Controlled-Release Fertilizers (PDF)

(Two experiments: 1) CRF's suspended in water at 40C (104F) for several weeks; and 2) Impact of Columnar Leaching in short-term diurnal temperature fluctuations (i.e. 'night' and 'day')

You're gonna want to read that one for yourselves, guys. It pertains to YOU! (Yes, I'm makin' ya do some work...)
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Also:

Effects of temperature on nutrient release from slow-release fertilizers

(go read the rest)

and:

OSMOCOTE Notes:



Sounds consistent with what Irish was seeing. Water 'em and they perk back up - water more often (but less each time instead of 'binge drinking'), and they seem happier.

I'm sure the same rules re: concentration apply here as they do with a hydro res: go from a 6 gal full res down to ~1-2 gal, and you'll start seeing toxicity/salt issues. Looks like ya need to keep the medium moist - especially if you're applying all the CRF to the pots at the start of the season.
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Orchids are a bit finicky sometimes, too; to wit, these folks say within:

The Orchid Fertilizer Bible:



Smaller meals instead of one big one, huh? Works for me. Takes away a bit from the 'just add water' simplicity, but if it's for a good cause - might be worth doing a little bit o' actual work to grow these plants, eh?
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Some comments from users of OC/DC (warmer climate users, mostly) over on Gardensweb; can't link to them directly from here of course:


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Lowe's carries it in their stores, but previously did not list it on their website; now they do:

Lowe's Garden Club Select (4 Formulations)

GCS_Florikan_Nutricote.jpg

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More info about greater release of OC ferts in high temps, esp. Nitrogen:

Release of nitrogen from two controlled release fertilizers (Osmocote Plus and Osmocote Exact)




That seems to reiterate/reinforce some of the above comments from people here.
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Now, all that really tells me at this time is that if you're:

1) Growing in a Controlled, Conditioned (HVAC) Environment (i.e. Living Spaces):

* You have a wider range of options with regards to which CRFs/TRFs to use, when (how often), and at what time of the year (temperature/seasonal)

2) If you're Growing in an Unconditioned Area (Non-Living Spaces) (crawlspace, garages, unfinished basements, attics, sheds, etc.):

* You want to take into account overall plant growth factors (Q-10, etc.) as well as nutrient release factors - which you should be doing anyway.

Same applies whether you're using LEDs vs HIDs, and all the rest. Don't blame the preparation (or lack of) or necessity for using a particular growspace for the results you get. Everyone works within their own budget, security concerns, and living arrangements. We all make do with what we've got.

And, good information backed by personal experience is the best foundation from which to make any decision.

----

I've usually had the luxury of growing in conditioned air spaces myself when indoors, so I'd leave my options open if using CRFs in the future. Plenty of folks (esp. in temperate climates) over the years have been using various formulations of OC in their gardens with great results.

Got kids, or antsy spouses, or nosy neighbors/landlords and draconian state laws?...then you also have fewer options, and your considerations will have to change accordingly.

Everyone's goal should be to grow in as conditioned and controllable a space as we possibly can (indoors, that is - legislatively, we want to do away with the necessity, of course) - if you have one, than kudos to you! Hard work, knowledge - and a little capital expenditure - will always pay off for you in the end.
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In the meantime, let's not have bias for or against anyone here either for/from their access to - or lack of - resources in setting up their garden space.

...Garden envy, anyone? ;)


Especially if they're buds of mine. Be nice...or I just might have to Open Up a Can o' Whoop Ass on ya--! :)


-TL

hope TL doesn't mind
 
Docbud,
Question: IN your current grow, the Hempy OC+ only plants are outgrowing the OC+ combined with organics?

Is there variety crossover, or a different one with each method?

I was thinking of a simplified organic soilless mix that consists of coir, gypsum, one of the Espoma organic mixes that include Microbes and OC+.

Espoma Citrus-Tone: 5-2-6 ratio with 2.0 Ca, 0.5% Mg, 1% S and of the Nitrogen 3% is slow release.

Plain water only, pulse fed multiple times daily (for a consistently moist profile)...

So far I haven't tried to mix any organic amendments with OC+. Only OC+ with plain water only or with the Peters/Calcinit combination... I overdid that on a few plants and had to flush the claw out of them.
 
Hey Grower Z!
I do not have any hempy buckets in my current grow. I'm all soil this time around.

I think any soiless mix would work well. Also, I don't think you'll want to feed them much in the way of NPK if you're using OC+.

Supplements with micro's and bloom enhancers, kelp extract, alfalfa tea extract......that kind of stuff is good. But, they won't need any NPK with OC+

Everything I'm learning about OC+ says: Keep your temps under control!

If you keep your temps reasonable, you'll love the performance of OC+. If you run hot, you may want dynamite instead....or polyon.

I'm running a coir based soil in the top half of many of my pots.....and I'm showing borderline calcium deficiency in two....nothing a couple doses of well water won't fix. Probably has to do with the coir absorbing Ca and hanging on to it.

Well......I've got water so hard it will scratch glass if you flick your fingers after washing your hands and it gets on the mirror! That should give enough Ca to do the job.
 
I was going to add OC+ to a line of organic potting mix. As per Doc and I's conversation...

I think it's going to be a sweet, rockin', combo!

-Go
 
I love this thread... thanks guys. I'm really excited about OC+. If there's anyone that needs a stoner-proof nute regimen it's me.

It seems like my harvests have mostly been a race, will they deliver before I kill them from my incompetence. All 3 of my late flower plants are currently a mess.

Just as an FYI, I couldn't find it locally so I ordered it through Ace Hardware's web site. It was $19 but free shipping to the nearest store, which is about a block from me.
 
Dupe post from my grow journal but it doesn't get much traffic.

I found OC+ at Ace Hardware. The same store I called yesterday that told me they didn't have it, so I ordered it from their website and had them ship it to the store for next Weds. She remembered my call and will give me a refund when it arrives.

So.... I took out my 3 girls that are really looking pretty rough, added the OC+, top dressed the soil, and flushed the hell out of them. B5 is looking really bad, think she's got a Mg deficiency. Big Amber isn't looking much better. My big sativa b1 lost about half her fan leaves overnight a week ago, she's been looking pretty stable since then.

I'm really curious about what if any difference it's going to make at this late stage, they only should have 2-4 weeks left.

I also got some epsom salt, should I treat B5 with that too or wait for the OC+ to hopefully do it's thing? Unless I hear otherwise I'm just hanging in there.

Also added OC+ to my hempy plant and watered it in.

I'll be watching closely.
 
I think you'll be happy with the results. I sure have been.

However, OC+ does have one weakness: heat.

My last grow, the temps were never over about 82 at the canopy.
On my current grow, due to a severe heatwave, I had canopy temps at around 87 for an entire day, and those plants showed a bit of nitrogen over feeding....not much, mind you, but a bit.

Another grower has been battling really high temps, and his OC+ plants didn't do as well. So, OC+ will do a superb job as long as the temps are under control.

If you anticipate high temps, use dynamite......OR use half the dose of OC+ and add more as needed.

If the environment is under control, you'll be very happy with OC+.
 
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