Just watered deep with super oxygenated water with Ferticell Algae and Rootwise Microbe Complete.
See if I can kick them into gear since first 3 weeks on an autoflower is critical.
Either going to start growing like kudzu or its d00b on a stick.
Autoflowers don't seem to have much middle ground, its all or nothing.
 
Well just totally screwed the first transplant and I mean BIG.
The one seedling was twice the size of the other two so it was time to transplant that one.
Cut both sides of solo as I always do, opened up like a clam and carefully removed the plant cradled in both hands, positioned over the hole and BOOM it was almost like it exploded.
Totally came apart.
I literally couldn't have phucked it more if I just turned it upside down onto the floor picked it up and tossed it into the hole from 5' away.

So IF this Honey Peach doesn't get stunted then it truly is a stable autoflower.
Far as I know at this point the other two may already be stunted because they are half the size and I just finished off the only good one.
If thats the case then I am done with autoflowers.

I will order a Doctor Seedsman CBD 20+% CBD about 1/2% THC and probably a Novarine which is 10% THCV and 8% THC and 2% CBD and just wait for those seeds and plant those.
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All 3 are stunted crap for no real reason.
In perfect seedling soil, temp a little lower than I would like 70-73⁰ instead of the 75-78⁰ I would have preferred but that shouldn't cause stunting.
The soil moisture was perfect never wet, never dry.
The lighting was between 150-190 PPFD.
They got nothing but a little mycorrhazae and a bit of aloe vera.

The one I obviously did in by transtossing it into the hole.
But no excuse for the other two.
I smashed two of them into the ground a few minutes ago, the other I am sure is stunted also as by now which is 15 days it should be 3x bigger than it is.

So I am probably going to take the remaining seeds of Honey Peach and toss in water tonight and just plant straight into the pots tomorrow.
If they grow then yay, if they don't then don't really care as these will be my last autoflowers. I don't expect any of them to grow.
If I had planted 3 photo-periods 15 days ago all 3 would be about 10" tall and healthy as an ox right now.

Breeders ought to be phucking sued for selling this shyt.

I am going to order some straight CBD and a THCV cultivar seeds soon.
 
It’s all good bro they aren’t meant to be!
 
LOL.
Here's some shit for you.
I germinated 3 more seeds and yanked the remaining plant out of the pot and having nowhere else to really put it i went WTF and just put it outside in my garden last night.
I thought when I looked at it today what I was going to see was this now twice transplanted autoflower to look like a little clump of steamed spinach.

Here is what I saw in a measured 110⁰ heat and the LUX from the sun measured at 122,000.
That comes out to 2800 PPFD for the record.

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Phucking thing is loving life and looks as strong as a bull moose.
Now WTF.
I am sure the bugs will find it shortly and devour it but still.

The only answer I can get from this is literally everybody is wrong about light intensity for seedlings and temperature range.
So the 3 I just planted if they come up I will go easy for a few days then just light blast them full bore.
 
Like I figured bugs have already started eating it, won't be anything but a shell left in a few days.
This is after soaking it in spinosad and neem both last night.
I covered it in diatomaceous earth this morning but won't do any good.
Utterly impossible to grow outside here.
There were hundreds of sow bugs covering the bottom of it.
If I got rid of sow bugs then the small slugs would take over, get rid of them and the caterpillars take over and so on.
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Like I figured bugs have already started eating it, won't be anything but a shell left in a few days.
This is after soaking it in spinosad and neem both last night.
I covered it in diatomaceous earth this morning but won't do any good.
Utterly impossible to grow outside here.
There were hundreds of sow bugs covering the bottom of it.
If I got rid of sow bugs then the small slugs would take over, get rid of them and the caterpillars take over and so on.
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bro, Cinnomin and dawn dishsoap will keep anything away. dont mix them, spray dawn/water mix on soil, then sprinkle cinnomin over your entire plant area
 
bro, Cinnomin and dawn dishsoap will keep anything away. dont mix them, spray dawn/water mix on soil, then sprinkle cinnomin over your entire plant area
I dusted it with diatomaceous earth which pretty much stopped them.
Doesn't particularly matter though as its just a worthless stunted autoflower.
I just left it growing as more of a novelty than anything else.
In a month there may be possibly 3 grams I will dry and toss into a batch of oil.

I am done with autoflowers.

My last one thats just shy of 3 weeks old is clearly stunted also.
It was planted in seedling soil in a 10 gal pot, with everything totally dialed in to perfection. Never over nor under watered.
Perfect temp, perfect humidity, light breeze, oxygenated water with just a tiny bit of aloe vera, perfect lighting.
Absolutely zero reason to be stunted and its worthless garbage.

Most autoflowers are a total waste of money and the breeders should be sued.

I got some good photo-period seeds coming in on Wednesday so I can back to growing.
 
Hey don't want to steal your thread but....I have mainlined/manifolded my plants in the past and decided to do a experiment or two on a plant of mine.
1)Manifolded x 2 to 8 main stems again but have not thinned out the leaves at all and
2)the plant has been put outside in a 5 gallon bucket of a weak super soil since June first.
It is still in veg mode and doing very well with a pretty flat top to her with strong stems and now well over 25 strong future bud sites and of coarse lots of small ones. There is no comparison to my indoor plants for general health and vigor. I attribute this to the strong natural light we have here and the non trimming. I plan on putting her into flower in another couple three weeks indoors with some minor trimming of fan leaves prior as my lights are not that good in retrospect. This plant is over 3 feet square and about 24 in tall it was a freebee seed called Critical looks sort of Sativa in the leaves.....I did not trim this plant because of something I believe you wrote about not trimming the leaves in a past post and thought it made sense especially in the veg stage...

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She looks really good.
Only thing I see that might be a problem is such a nice big plant in a small 5 gal bucket.
Might be a good idea to transplant into a 15 gal fabric pot if thats possible for you.
Other than that sounds like you got everything under control nicely.
The 5 gallon bucket I have found is to small as ted you have stated and it is very hot here and she needs water every 2 days. However I am not comfortable repotting her this close to putting her into flower in a couple of weeks. Next year I will use a bigger pot. Just as a note part of this experiment was a attempt to reduce my Electric bill and it appears to be a alternative for summer months as I started her under lights in Mar and then put her outside full time in the first of June and will put her into flower under lights in the first of Aug.....have a great day.......
 
Going to make a suggestion to all the n00bs out there that are just starting out and having a rough go of it.
Seeing a few almost everyday and the common problem IMO is trying to grow in mud.
Far as I have seen there aren't any big box store bags of potting soil or hydro store soils such as Fox Farms that are fit to grow cannabis in right out of the bag.
They're all too heavy, not nearly enough aeration and this is causing lack of oxygen to the roots.
Especially when combined with small plastic pots, they're just setting themselves up for failure.
Anytime you have a medium that requires you to "dry it out" and that takes more than 5 days then you are growing in mud and you're almost certainly going to have problems.
Even if you manage to get something to grow in this largely anaerobic environment its going to be far from optimal.
Dumping FFOF or similar soils into a 3 gal plastic pot and then doing this water roulette dance of going from wet to dry is not how people should be taught to grow.
Its nonsense like this is how we got "flushing" as a thing for 30 years.

There are two things roots don't like, being really wet for a long time and getting dry at all.
And thats exactly what everyone is being told to do repeatedly.

When you have a heavy soil with nowhere near enough aeration and you water to runoff, assuming the soil is even getting wet and doesn't have big dry spots then the roots get a little bit of dissolved oxygen from the water and after a few hours those roots sit in a mostly anaerobic environment for days which is why everyone then tells them (well you overwatered) so now you must let that mud (dry out) and time it just right by weighing your pot while the top 2 to 3" of soil where the delicate feeder roots and root hairs are drying out which kills off root hairs.
This is doing both things that roots hate the most, sitting in a swamp and then getting too dry for too long.

And this just freaks people out where they're scared shitless of overwatering.
So then you see these poor folks measuring ounces of water to sprinkle around the plant which by now is sitting in dry hydrophobic soil so those few dribbles of water follow channels and scoot right out the bottom of the pot.
Also dry soil concentrates nutrients which can cause nutrient burn.
Its insane.

There are two methods and mediums that people should be taught.
They should decide if they wish to use bottled nutrients or if they wish to go organic in soil.
If they decide bottled nutrients then you should be going with coco plain and simple.
They should get the best quality coco they can get, wash it in Yucca extract and squeeze it out to make sure most sodium is washed out.
Then put that into a bucket with water and Gypsum to soak it in calcium and sulfur and add some pumice and a little biochar and let a that soak an hour then put that into 4 to 5 gal fabric pots and water it everyday with 1/4 strength nutrients designed for coco pH'd to 5.8.
There is little to no guess-work and the roots stay moist at all times and constantly have oxygen.

If they decide to go organic then it needs to be in 20+ gallon fabric pots.
Use a Clackamas Coots soil recipe that has plenty of aeration, then plant cover crop that aerates the soil add worms that aerate the soil, and preferably oxygenate your water to add lots of dissolved oxygen to all the nooks and crannies in the pumice and biochar.
And just like Coco you water at least most everyday, in early veg you could skip a day occasionally and be fine but in general you water approx 5% of the soil volume everyday.
The roots stay moist at all times, they have a constant supply of oxygen, no anaerobic conditions, no dry roots.
No need to pH, no guesswork don't have to worry about over/under watering.

Over watering is almost never the real problem, it's pretty much always lack of oxygen.
That is caused by using the wrong medium.
 
Over watering is almost never the real problem, it's pretty much always lack of oxygen.
Makes sense, otherwise all these DWC type grows would fail in 2 weeks.
 
Going to make a suggestion to all the n00bs out there that are just starting out and having a rough go of it.
Seeing a few almost everyday and the common problem IMO is trying to grow in mud.
Far as I have seen there aren't any big box store bags of potting soil or hydro store soils such as Fox Farms that are fit to grow cannabis in right out of the bag.
They're all too heavy, not nearly enough aeration and this is causing lack of oxygen to the roots.
Especially when combined with small plastic pots, they're just setting themselves up for failure.
Anytime you have a medium that requires you to "dry it out" and that takes more than 5 days then you are growing in mud and you're almost certainly going to have problems.
Even if you manage to get something to grow in this largely anaerobic environment its going to be far from optimal.
Dumping FFOF or similar soils into a 3 gal plastic pot and then doing this water roulette dance of going from wet to dry is not how people should be taught to grow.
Its nonsense like this is how we got "flushing" as a thing for 30 years.

There are two things roots don't like, being really wet for a long time and getting dry at all.
And thats exactly what everyone is being told to do repeatedly.

When you have a heavy soil with nowhere near enough aeration and you water to runoff, assuming the soil is even getting wet and doesn't have big dry spots then the roots get a little bit of dissolved oxygen from the water and after a few hours those roots sit in a mostly anaerobic environment for days which is why everyone then tells them (well you overwatered) so now you must let that mud (dry out) and time it just right by weighing your pot while the top 2 to 3" of soil where the delicate feeder roots and root hairs are drying out which kills off root hairs.
This is doing both things that roots hate the most, sitting in a swamp and then getting too dry for too long.

And this just freaks people out where they're scared shitless of overwatering.
So then you see these poor folks measuring ounces of water to sprinkle around the plant which by now is sitting in dry hydrophobic soil so those few dribbles of water follow channels and scoot right out the bottom of the pot.
Also dry soil concentrates nutrients which can cause nutrient burn.
Its insane.

There are two methods and mediums that people should be taught.
They should decide if they wish to use bottled nutrients or if they wish to go organic in soil.
If they decide bottled nutrients then you should be going with coco plain and simple.
They should get the best quality coco they can get, wash it in Yucca extract and squeeze it out to make sure most sodium is washed out.
Then put that into a bucket with water and Gypsum to soak it in calcium and sulfur and add some pumice and a little biochar and let a that soak an hour then put that into 4 to 5 gal fabric pots and water it everyday with 1/4 strength nutrients designed for coco pH'd to 5.8.
There is little to no guess-work and the roots stay moist at all times and constantly have oxygen.

If they decide to go organic then it needs to be in 20+ gallon fabric pots.
Use a Clackamas Coots soil recipe that has plenty of aeration, then plant cover crop that aerates the soil add worms that aerate the soil, and preferably oxygenate your water to add lots of dissolved oxygen to all the nooks and crannies in the pumice and biochar.
And just like Coco you water at least most everyday, in early veg you could skip a day occasionally and be fine but in general you water approx 5% of the soil volume everyday.
The roots stay moist at all times, they have a constant supply of oxygen, no anaerobic conditions, no dry roots.
No need to pH, no guesswork don't have to worry about over/under watering.

Over watering is almost never the real problem, it's pretty much always lack of oxygen.
That is caused by using the wrong medium.
Great write up. Well thought out. I do agree with 90% of it.
But 3gallon pots and soil still work..I've always used the same pots and methods with great results, these are only in 2and half gallon plastic pots, the compost is organic, for tomato plants and I do a full wet dry cycle. I also use organic bottled nutrients designed for garden vegetables and house plants..
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so it does work for small grows. Not everyone can fit 20 gallon pots in their space.. as long as you keep a close eye on how the plants are behaving and reacting, you can pull it off.
Sorry to put a negative comment on such a good write up. I just wanted to say it's not impossible to grow in those conditions; all you need is 30% perlite, some gravel and don't let them get too big.. I've let these get too big and I am expecting issues, but it's how you deal with the problems that's key..
so this is where your write up comes in. For new growers it's difficult to diagnose and treat those problems without having that little bit experience..


Screenshot_20210810-194805.jpeg
 
Great write up. Well thought out. I do agree with 90% of it.
But 3gallon pots and soil still work..I've always used the same pots and methods with great results, these are only in 2and half gallon plastic pots, the compost is organic, for tomato plants and I do a full wet dry cycle. I also use organic bottled nutrients designed for garden vegetables and house plants..
Screenshot_20210810-195329.jpeg
Screenshot_20210810-195414.jpeg
Screenshot_20210807-211827.jpeg
Screenshot_20210805-054831.jpeg
so it does work for small grows. Not everyone can fit 20 gallon pots in their space.. as long as you keep a close eye on how the plants are behaving and reacting, you can pull it off.
Sorry to put a negative comment on such a good write up. I just wanted to say it's not impossible to grow in those conditions; all you need is 30% perlite, some gravel and don't let them get too big.. I've let these get too big and I am expecting issues, but it's how you deal with the problems that's key..
so this is where your write up comes in. For new growers it's difficult to diagnose and treat those problems without having that little bit experience..


Screenshot_20210810-194805.jpeg
Its not a negative comment at all.

I was referring to a total n00b and what they should do for the easiest possible grow.
You're bottle feeding so 20 gallon isn't totally necessary.
Its much more difficult is all, and most would end up with lots of problems and small harvest if any at all.
 
Interesting looking journal ya got @Nunyabiz :green_heart:

Love the DIY leds those sound like they replace the old school 1000w HPS certainly & must help you achieve great yields.

Water enriched with extra oxygen we here about this for DWC for a very good reason, also hearing people have used air stones in the bottom of hempy buckets plus another system used... never really thought about it for LOS or even basic organic methods, I shall ponder over this one.

Defiantly a unique way of growing :thumb:
 
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