If anyone wants to send me an Octopot for Christmas send me a PM and I'll give you my mailing address.
How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
If anyone wants to send me an Octopot for Christmas send me a PM and I'll give you my mailing address.
Hey hash hound...
I think the difference with octopot is seizing the best of both worlds.. where as with either system... hydro, soil.. you have to have one world at a time...
I.e
Soil..
Wet/dry periods..
You have to allow for the moisture to go and the plant to breath before watering. This stages the growth of the plant as it has to store it's food untill it can combine and flourish...
Hydro...
Constant wet allowing for more water to be uptake but we have to provide extra air by airstone or other means, that's because we starve the plant of air obviously..
Bubbleponics airponics and the other systems try to give as much water and air at once and are good systems I want to look further into...
But the difference..
Octopot has two growth stages and it's roots adapt to suit each stage..
The roots in the sleeve constantly search for air and breath whilst the roots in your res drink.. it's able to uptake whatever it wants when ever it wants in abundance...
Also the way the res works is it constantly oxygenated itself too.. thus allowing the roots to sit in the still water and not rot..
I think it's benefits are simply. Little maintenance and it uses the best of both worlds
I found when using soil I was rushing things along and not allowing time for the plant roots to dry and breath. Causing problems.. the octopot saved my girls from impending death lmao
In relation to your questions of pot size depth wick and sleeve fabric..
Most is dependant on the size you want to yield I guess.. the sleeve needs to breath and not mould and retain to much moisture..
The wick doesn't actually soak up the water as suggested.. the roots take the water up Nd transfer moisture to the soils and gradients it through the sleeve wet to dry..
The more the plants drink the wetter your sleeve..
The water level is dependant on stage of growth..
Early you want to fill it.. as your roots touch down you want the level lower so the roots stretch out and fill the res.. as your roots fill the bottom keep the lvlof water just above them..
Then as you move to flower start flooding them so they have whatever they want...
The dish pans I doubt will work as you will be soaking your roots, withoit oxygenated water... adding an airstone wint help either as your p.h will fly up.. .. I think you will end up with root rot in a week. Don't do that lmao... there is a clear divide between oxygen and water on all the working octo systems I've seen. Genuine or d.i.y
This was my orginal design on the octopot.. and to be fair it worked well I just think the sleeve was to narrow and not deep enough as it's moisture lvl was approx 100% 24/7
So I chucked it in the big sleeve. Which I think was the perfect idea.....
Maybe my res can be smaller next time round though..
I'm going to be building my next one pretty soon as I've just ordered some ammi haze seeds.. so need to start fresh..
All in the journal
I’m working on the assumption that the water level is lowest at the early stages and rises as the plants root hit the reservoir. I found it interesting that you mentioned keeping the water just above the rootmass once it develops in the res. Can you explain why this level? Learning as I go, and you seem to have a better grasp of the process.
I’ve grown in soil, and I grow hempy with perlite now, but I’ve never grown hydro. I’ve also used SWICK, and I can say that the chief difference is the addition of nutrients into the reservoir. With SWICK this isn’t recommended. It’ll stink to high heaven in no time. SWICK is set up to deliver water only. Nutrients are either added to the soil itself before planting or carefully drenched in so as not to pollute the reservoir.
SWICK oxygenates wonderfully and offers the plants a way to water themselves, but it’s not a nutrient-delivery system the way Octopot and like designs are. This method appears to bring the best of all worlds into a happy collision and grows plants that think they’re out in a field.
We’re still making up our minds about Octopot, but the increased purchase of systems by those who already had one or two speaks volumes about how this system works on the ground running. Something’s right here.
Morning everyone I see this as being some serious magical juju to consider in deepest darkest depths of my cave in Africa....
I think even for numpties like me, this above explains it perfectly and clearly and the pics are extremely helpful to anyone wanting to build their own like me, can you tell I'm itching to make one....hahaha
Thanks for that ms.Sue.....
So I need to go look for a net pot and reservoir out there in hobbitsville , if I can't find leca balls what would you ladies n gents recommend...
One watering only on top I'm good with and that's when you put the seed in, how long does it take for the taproot to hit the bottom of the net pot before entering the reservoir is what would concern me the most about that 1 watering...? How many mls is the first watering...?
Using a wick I think would pull to much water into fabric pot while that root is stretching down, I'd maby use aquarium hose down both sides just to wet the surface of the net pot so once the tap root reaches it like an incentive to get lower...?
Getting jittery excited, go have a nosy around town later...hahaha
Why is your IIP such a light green color? Is she getting enough Nitrogen?
Yippee ms.Sue....haha let's see what today holds and might have an octopot by the end of the day, will shout if any problems arise....
I am not versed in the operation of this latest contraption but do have to believe a plant's roots hitting the reservoir with this will be the same as hitting it in a hempy pot. It will hopefully take off a bet a little color in her cheeks.
Why is your IIP such a light green color? Is she getting enough Nitrogen?
I may be wrong but I believe it is a magnesium issue not N. Nitrogen usually affects the bottom leaves the most, whereas the light green coming from the veins of the leaf kinda looks like Mag.. (I am very very new to growing so take this for what its worth)I grow so many chemovars that are this shade of green coming up that it doesn’t register with me as abnormal beez. If she’s not getting enough nitrogen she will as Brix ups the nutrient levels.
I take it yours is much greener? This girl’s only on 3 grams of MC 2.0/gal of water. She’ll be increasing soon. She’s about to hit the reservoir too. That’s gonna make a difference.
I may be wrong but I believe it is a magnesium issue not N. Nitrogen usually affects the bottom leaves the most, whereas the light green coming from the veins of the leaf kinda looks like Mag.. (I am very very new to growing so take this for what its worth)
@Smeegol Just an FYI...I used one of the shopping fabric bags for growing an auto outdoors. Not sure if it was because it was outdoors or not but the bag fell apart after about 50 days. It just disintegrated on me when I went to pick it up one day. I ended up buying fabric pots from our sponsor and have had no problem since.