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Hi all, first time grower, at least with this crop, experienced organic high-yield square-foot-gardener.
This is a hobby project I've decided to undertake as a proof of concept and to fill my days during the winter.
Some rules I've set for myself in this project :
-as organic as physically possible
-keep total startup cost under $300
-free-cycle as much material as possible
-total stealth from neighbors etc (focusing on general odor and specifically exhaust control)
Total out of pocket cost so far on this project :
$65 5-pack of seeds
$117 various Home Depot purchases (lumber, blower fan, activated carbon filter materials, some lights)
(does not include materials I already had such as growth medium, containers, some lights, some build materials. Alot of these were originally donated from construction site waste, some were otherwise scavenged or free-cycled)
So, let's start with my growth medium :
I am using a customized variation of Mel's Mix, (%33 peat moss, %33 vermiculite, %33 organic compost blend composed of 8 different composts incl chicken, sheep, cow and deer manure, mushroom compost, worm castings, shrimp fish and seaweed compost and a homemade general veg matter compost) so nutrient wise I'm set from seedling to at least 2-3 weeks in, probably longer but will be reading the plants. My starting nutrient levels are nitrogen heavy but not unreasonable. I have had alot of ridiculous tomato yields with this blend and look forward to seeing what it can do with this crop.
My box is 4ft wide, 3ft deep, and 5ft high total, with about 4.25 total usable vertical feet allowing space for containers, some gear, and lights. I intend to use this space for no more than 2 LST and scrog'ed plants, but i did make it a bit bigger than needed in case that changes in future, i suspect with strict training and clever use of space i could support 4-5. The box is currently a work in progress to be completed over next couple weeks as time, and materials allow. Will eventually be painted flat white on all interior surfaces for reflection purposes, currently unpainted wood interior.
Currently using 1 x 4ft 2tube T8 fitted with 2 x 32w 6500k tube (I plan to add 2 more of these fixtures with 4 more tubes totaling 6 x t8 tubes, just out of stock for a week) as well as 1 x t5 2ft single-tube fitted with 1 x 24w 6400k mounted vertically between the 2 grow spaces. To bridge the light deficit until i get more units I've added a few 7w 2700k CFL's I have kicking around. All lights save the vertical t5 are fully height adjustable in a 4.5 foot range in order to keep the T8's within 1-2 inches of canopy (this has worked well for me with my indoor vegetable crops, the heat these things put out is negligible and as my ambient temperature is 22-23C any extra heat they give will be welcome I think.
Box will be exhausted via dual DIY activated carbon filter powered by 4inch 700+ CFM blower, and will double as drying and curing area between crops after initial startup and supply building, I don't plan on continuous grows, just as needed based on supply and yields. Have fresh air inlet to room via Hvac Combustion Air supply, so at least on paper entire box air volume will be exhausted and replaced 10x /minute, which may be a little much but i don't believe in half-measures when it comes to stealth. I'm debating whether or not I want to go with powered intake or stick with passive, if I go powered it will be with max 2 x 2inch PC fans to maintain negative box pressure and filter system integrity.
Currently have 2 NL fem auto seeds germinating, started them about 30 hours ago, took a bit longer than I expected to sink but they eventually both did. I'm guessing the lower than ideal temperature in the house contributed while they were soaking. Transferred to plate and paper towel after 14 hrs, had to leave and wasn't going to be back before 18 hour CKS recommended limit.
Checked them a few minutes before starting to type out this wall of text, 1 is visibly popped with tap root out, root <1mm atm so letting it go a bit more, other looks like it's about to pop but it seems to be fighting the wakeup call, will give it a few more days before i start worrying.
Will add pics of my work in progress box shortly.
Any and all comments, advice, etc welcome of course, but I pretty much intend to stick to my current grow-plan and box design with little to no modification until these plants die or are harvested, I know there are likely to be a good many methods/techniques/designs that would be more ideal or "better", and if this fails I will be trying again with whatever changes seem appropriate, but my primary goal is to see if THIS methodology and THESE materials will work, and if so how well.
Wish me luck!
Regards,
EndItAll
It is damned cold in the house, and it is damned cold in my cabinet. I think I may have to pull one of my cfl's and put in an old standard incandescent 100w for extra heat for the next few days during this cold snap. Damned high efficiency T8's and cfl's, Y U NO MAKE MORE HEATS.
Glad I planned ahead and went with a strain that does reasonably well in colder environments, but I gotta up the temperature in there somehow, it can't be more than 23C in there, and during the 6 hours lights are off it's probably closer to 19 or 20. Curse my wife and her draconian control of the thermostat, my girl needs heat.
Have the seedling pot on a standard germination/seedling mat as well, but I don't think it's quite enough to deal with my winter.
Other than that, I'm happy to say she seems to be doing well, the first leaf set doubled in size since my last pics, the 2nd set continues to slowly squeeze out the extra leaves, not much action from the 3rd set, some growth but minimal.
Pot was nice and light, mix was bone dry for at least 1.5 inches so gave #1 her first good drink, local source, beautiful trace salts and minerals, including HCO3 which naturally adjusts PH to around 6.0 to 6.2 and gets metabolized into CO2 as well as providing a biological buffer against sudden PH changes in either direction, Calcium which I hear most green things like, Magnesium which again I heard somewhere is a good thing to feed to pretty much anything green, NO3 , and K or potassium if you prefer.
Only thing missing from this water is phosphorous, which I am having trouble sourcing organically and locally atm, at least in a form that is easily converted to spray bottle friendly form, but am not overly worried about as my original compost sources for my mix contained several composted manures, all of which contained at least some.
After more reading and research into what and when to feed my girls with the mix I'm using, the answers I've come up with is not much at all and not until flowering time unless the girls tell me otherwise. My mix and method appears to most closely resemble a so called "super-soil" grow, which by all reports are given nothing but water from seed to harvest unless needed, which is only if you start with used or improperly refreshed mix. I will monitor closely and post pictures for advice if anything odd begins to happen.
Replacement seed sprouted while I wasn't paying attention, checked this morning nothing, check an hour ago, taproot 1.25 cm long, so into the #2 pot it went, have it on the mat under mild light. Better luck this time little thing, your predecessor died an ugly death, try to avoid that if you can.
What do you do with the egg shells?Im folowing every step of you and your doing great.You can try with egg shell,banana,bone/fish bone,crab shell.All easy and 100% organic just for you ....
GOTTA TRY THEM ALL!!!
Several angles, zooms, and light conditions to show shape and color. She looks better now than when i got home, less lime/yellow than 4 hrs ago and less droopy, but still not the vibrant deep green I have been seeing before.
I'm fairly certain it's not nutrient related, as I understand it, if the medium grows tomatoes well it should grow cannabis well too, and this same medium (I am using fresh unused remnants of the garden batch) with drought, then flood level rains, then drought again, and poor attention all season, gave me 20-40 pounds of tomatoes per plant in my garden with nothing but chlorinated fluoridated tap water straight from the hose from seed to harvest.
I should also point out that my first observation where I noticed yellowing and drooping coincided with end of 6hr night.
My 2 guesses at this point based on small but visible improvement over 4 hours are :
-if improvement continues, assume mild over-watering that is already self correcting, if so then continue as planned, IE: no more water for a few days until pot is light again, give less at next watering, see if symptoms re-occur, if so is plant less impacted with less watering? I need to bear in mind that both the vermiculite and the peat moss in my mix retain more water than standard soils, and not allow so much runoff.
-my low temps may be adversely affecting plant's metabolism, thus slowing down chlorophyll production during growth. It may be coincidental but lights on appears to have led to improvement, and this leads me to suspect temperature as a contributing factor if not an outright cause. Must urgently find way too raise temps a couple more degrees in box, and get around to making the trip to town for a thermometer and humidity gauge, really shouldn't have put it off this long. I would kill the oscillating fan for a while to stop that source of cooling, but I don't want to lose the circulation in the box and further reduce evaporation from soil, and I intend to train the naughty girl, so I want that wind shaking her good and giving her a strong stem.
edit : I think for now as a stopgap to help with heat and humidity in box, I shall boil a large pot of water and place it under the table
I have been putting a clear glass jar filled with plain water in mine and it really helps bring up the humidity. I have to refill it every 2-3 days.
Smell is becoming significant, trip into town for filter parts tomorrow, will post photos of the build.