Newbie Grower, Carmen Auto x Diva, Outdoors

[cbdhemp808]

But I still wonder if Emilya or someone wanted to do a comparative grow, side by side, with tall pots and with wide...

It would be an easy test, I think. If I were to do this test, I'd use 40g cylindrical smart pots. I'd use identical clones of a photoperiod plant. One plant would be in a pot with dimensions 18" tall by 25.8" wide – the wide pot. The other would be in a pot 25.8" tall by 19.2" wide – the tall pot. Both pots are 40g. The plants would be grown in the same soil mix, same watering schedule, same access to sunlight. They would also receive a high-N liquid fert, let's say every other watering – same amount for each plant. (Note: To create more difference in wide vs. tall, you could use 16" tall by 30" wide for the wide pot.)

Now things get interesting, because:

• indica-dominant, sativa-dominant, or hybrid?
• exact same amount and frequency of water? or more water for the tall pot?
• should the tall pot be 25.8" tall, or not that tall? If not that tall, why?

What I think would happen...

Let's assume a sativa-dominant plant. I think the wide-pot plant would grow faster and have a wider canopy, and would require less water. (At 100g, the differences would be even more pronounced.)

 

[cbdhemp808]

I had a real problem finding decent organic potting soil with nutes when I got here. I had used Subcool's Supersoil before, so when I found components for that I landed on them with all fours.
Now I know where to get compost and things for cheap, but back then I did not know.
I finally found some good soil to make SubCool's and also for the upper layer, but it seems it has a CalMag deficiency.
For right now I am adding liquid organic calmag.

I get it... you are kinda stuck and need to water-in your nutrients. All good.

 

[Azimuth]

I have a confession to make. I have been trying to follow Emilya's routine as much as is practical, but by the time you've got a 4/5 cut and LST training hoops going out to the rim, it gets harder to follow Em's watering routine, because the canopy starts blocking the access.

I grow in really tight spaces with not a lot of room so my distance from soil to bottom branches of the canopy is often times a couple of inches. So here's what I do:

I cut a piece of 1/2" pvc pipe to the needed length to get under the canopy to reach the soil, about 6" but you may need a bit more. Then I got a 1/2" x 1" pvc bushing to connect the 1/2" pipe to a 1" pvc elbow. And finally, I cut the top off a 16oz soda bottle and invert it into the elbow to use as a funnel. The mouth of the bottle nestles in quite nicely into the 1" elbow.

Then, to water, I tilt the entire assembly back a bit and pour some water into the funnel. Then I carefully tilt it forward to let the liquid out while I move the end of the pipe around the pot to where I want the water to go. Takes a bit of practice but works great.

I just don't understand why that one Purple Kush Auto shows deficiency signs, and everyone else looks happy and thriving (except the Eleven Roses Autos, but that is a separate question).

Genetics, probably. Every strain likes things just a little bit different. That's why topdressing with healthy leaves of that particular strain can work so well. So everything that you thin or pluck off with healthy green leaves, leave them as mulch and let the microbes break them down. I do that when I clone and then trim the leaves back on the clone. They go right back onto the mother plant's soil surface.

The healthy leaves from that strain has everything in the exact perfect ratio that that particular plant needs.

I got time to look up that link on quadlining. That was interesting!
Does his advice to strip the smaller branches apply to autos as well?

Yeah, that's a really good thread. Autos grow the same as photo's, it's just there is little room for error since the clock is ticking. So I would say follow the directions until it starts to flower then just let it do its thing. With autos you don't have the luxury of time to get it right before flowering, so you may be only part way to what you want but that's the way it goes.

And, Here's a link  to @Dutchman1990 's tutorial on quadlining if you want to do more reading.

 

[CBDMed]

It would be an easy test, I think. If I were to do this test, I'd use 40g cylindrical smart pots. I'd use identical clones of a photoperiod plant. One plant would be in a pot with dimensions 18" tall by 25.8" wide – the wide pot. The other would be in a pot 25.8" tall by 19.2" wide – the tall pot. Both pots are 40g. The plants would be grown in the same soil mix, same watering schedule, same access to sunlight. They would also receive a high-N liquid fert, let's say every other watering – same amount for each plant. (Note: To create more difference in wide vs. tall, you could use 16" tall by 30" wide for the wide pot.)

Wow! Perfect!

Now things get interesting, because:

• indica-dominant, sativa-dominant, or hybrid?

You are asking me????
Well, I think the 5G pots are mostly 7 tall by 4 wide.
I think we are discussing the ideal size and shape for a larger container (say, 40G)?
So, for me that would probably be a sativa dominant, maybe Harlequin.
It is described as 75% sativa dominant.\
>> "Harlequin is one such strain. It is a sativa-dominant (75%) hybrid containing 7-15% THC and 10-15% CBD."

So, do you have anything that is maybe 75% sativa dominant?

• exact same amount and frequency of water? or more water for the tall pot?
• should the tall pot be 25.8" tall, or not that tall? If not that tall, why?

Oy.
Hmm.....
Good questions. I am not sure I know the answer.
I would THINK with clones, just water them as they need, and then see which one gets bigger?
Or is that wrong?

What I think would happen...

Let's assume a sativa-dominant plant. I think the wide-pot plant would grow faster and have a wider canopy, and would require less water. (At 100g, the differences would be even more pronounced.)

Ok! If you want to do 100G, yes, that would probably give us a much better idea which one grows stronger.
And you could argue against clones because of the taproot, but it would seem like a very important datapoint to know how clones find such containers (without a taproot).
But then, that could be wrong.

 

[CBDMed]

I grow in really tight spaces with not a lot of room so my distance from soil to bottom branches of the canopy is often times a couple of inches. So here's what I do:

I cut a piece of 1/2" pvc pipe to the needed length to get under the canopy to reach the soil, about 6" but you may need a bit more. Then I got a 1/2" x 1" pvc bushing to connect the 1/2" pipe to a 1" pvc elbow. And finally, I cut the top off a 16oz soda bottle and invert it into the elbow to use as a funnel. The mouth of the bottle nestles in quite nicely into the 1" elbow.

Nice!
Good idea.
I put those parts on the shopping list.

Then, to water, I tilt the entire assembly back a bit and pour some water into the funnel. Then I carefully tilt it forward to let the liquid out while I move the end of the pipe around the pot to where I want the water to go. Takes a bit of practice but works great.

Siiii..... Muy bien!

Genetics, probably. Every strain likes things just a little bit different. That's why topdressing with healthy leaves of that particular strain can work so well. So everything that you thin or pluck off with healthy green leaves, leave them as mulch and let the microbes break them down. I do that when I clone and then trim the leaves back on the clone. They go right back onto the mother plant's soil surface.

The healthy leaves from that strain has everything in the exact perfect ratio that that particular plant needs.

Ok, thank you! I will do that.
If I ever remove the training hoops, that should help also.
How long does it take for them to take a set, so you can remove the hoops?

Yeah, that's a really good thread. Autos grow the same as photo's, it's just there is little room for error since the clock is ticking. So I would say follow the directions until it starts to flower then just let it do its thing. With autos you don't have the luxury of time to get it right before flowering, so you may be only part way to what you want but that's the way it goes.

Bien.

And, Here's a link  to @Dutchman1990 's tutorial on quadlining if you want to do more reading.

Thanks!

 

[Azimuth]

How long does it take for them to take a set, so you can remove the hoops?

Usually after the stretch, so about 3 weeks into flower.

 

[CBDMed]

Usually after the stretch, so about 3 weeks into flower.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I hear 5G is probably dangerous to our health.

But 5G smart pots connected to the IoT* are good for us.



* Innernet of Tetrahydrocannabinol

 

[CBDMed]

I hear 5G is probably dangerous to our health.

But 5G smart pots connected to the IoT* are good for us.



* Innernet of Tetrahydrocannabinol

Hahahaha!!
(Oy....)



Hahaha!

 

[CBDMed]

@Azimuth , you said before there were four species of seeds, dandelion, comfrey, stinging nettle, and horsetail fern. Is that Equisetum? Or what is the Latin (so I can be sure to order the right seeds!)?
Thanks!

Back in a few days. I am on a run at work.

 

[Azimuth]

According to the nutrient profiles, comfrey and s.nettle are really the only two you need. Adding horsetail brings in slightly higher silica than the nettle but not really enough to matter, and dandelion is the weak sister of the group.

Dandelion is much more common growing wild so it is an easy way to begin but if you're ordering seeds you'll be much better off with the other two.

 

[CBDMed]

According to the nutrient profiles, comfrey and s.nettle are really the only two you need. Adding horsetail brings in slightly higher silica than the nettle but not really enough to matter, and dandelion is the weak sister of the group.

Dandelion is much more common growing wild so it is an easy way to begin but if you're ordering seeds you'll be much better off with the other two.

Perfect! Thank you!
I ordered the comfrey and the s.nettle. I am sure they will have dandelions where I am hoping to go (if it matters).
Horsetail ferns would probably grow well there, as it rains really a lot, so if I can find those later I will get those also.
Rice hulls are super cheap here, and someone said they contain silica.
They are not organic, but they rarely (if ever) use glysophate on rice, so at least they are "natural" (which is my minimum for a soil input).
I am looking forward to some time, so I can learn more about those sub-irrigation planters (or whatever they are called)!
Those sound like the way to go!

 

[Azimuth]

I should also point out that both of them can be invasive if left to go to seed.

With comfrey you have a sterile option that won't produce seeds, but you have to get it from root propagation. I grow the Bocking 14 variety which is one such cultivar.

 

[CBDMed]

I should also point out that both of them can be invasive if left to go to seed.

With comfrey you have a sterile option that won't produce seeds, but you have to get it from root propagation. I grow the Bocking 14 variety which is one such cultivar.

Ok, thanks!
I am in a mad scramble today. My deadline is tonight, and we had three days of setbacks. So it is the big push right now.
Well, actually, I tend to favor invasive species because they are much harder to kill (and then I don't have to tend them so much, haha!). So if this one is not invasive, I will get one that is! Haha.
Just curious, why do you find non-invasive preferable?

 

[Azimuth]

Just curious, why do you find non-invasive preferable?

Well, these two could be especially problematic.

The s.nettle causes a sharp stinging sensation when your skin brushes up against it. Imagine one of the little attack plants lurking in every corner of your yard and garden. Even if you know how to avoid them, any visitor to your property likely won't. Now some people actually use the stinging properties and the chemicals contained to treat arthritis and other issues, but most people find the reaction unpleasant.

The comfrey has an extremely long tap root which is one of the things that helps establish it as a super/dynamic accumulator plant since it is able to mine minerals much deeper than most plants. The deep tap root means you will likely never be able to dig it out to get rid of it. AND, it can be propagated via root cuttings. Now, imagine your comfrey plant has gone to seed and spread all over your and your neighbor's property and you now have thousands of new comfrey plants that you'll also never be able to dig out, and if you try to dig them out, every severed root grows another plant that you'll also never be able to dig out. A living nightmare.

 

[CBDMed]

Well, these two could be especially problematic.

The s.nettle causes a sharp stinging sensation when your skin brushes up against it. Imagine one of the little attack plants lurking in every corner of your yard and garden. Even if you know how to avoid them, any visitor to your property likely won't. Now some people actually use the stinging properties and the chemicals contained to treat arthritis and other issues, but most people find the reaction unpleasant.

Yes, I am familiar with them. We had them and Devil's Club as a child. I did not like the way they stung! But then later I learned that s.nettle was medicinal. And it mostly lives in certain environments.
But even so, I don't particularly mind if edible or mediciinal plants proliferate. I am a big fan of edible and medicinal landscaping, and to me, food and medicinal values come first.
I also hope to grow Jiaogulan, which is considered "the new gingeng." Have you heard of it? It is a particularly invasive vine--but it is really super good for you!
(And easy to harvest!)

The comfrey has an extremely long tap root which is one of the things that helps establish it as a super/dynamic accumulator plant since it is able to mine minerals much deeper than most plants. The deep tap root means you will likely never be able to dig it out to get rid of it. AND, it can be propagated via root cuttings. Now, imagine your comfrey plant has gone to seed and spread all over your and your neighbor's property and you now have thousands of new comfrey plants that you'll also never be able to dig out, and if you try to dig them out, every severed root grows another plant that you'll also never be able to dig out. A living nightmare.

Hmmm....
Ok, that sounds like very good information.
Only, I guess I am not clear as to why I would want to dig them out. I like medicinal and edible landscaping, and would think that having comfrey (boneset) and s. nettle in ready supply around the property would be a great!

 

[CBDMed]

I hear 5G is probably dangerous to our health.

But 5G smart pots connected to the IoT* are good for us.



* Innernet of Tetrahydrocannabinol

Yes, some people think high tech may not always be as neutral as some other people hope.

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, @Azimuth asked me if I had looked at self-watering planters (SIPs).
I had not.
I finally got some time today to look, and they seem very simple, and simple to make.
One immediate promise is that it would save a lot of time watering.
I guess another thing is that some people have amazing success with them.

I am brand new on Buds Buddy 's thread where he is having amazing success with an SIP.
I confess I still need to read the thread first, but if it is working for Buds, and also for Azimuth, then I probably need to check it out, if there is the possibility of a substantial time savings (because I am always slammed for time).

Has anyone besides Azimuth used an SIP and had good results?

 

[CBDMed]

And here is one of @Azimuth's threads where he starts using an SIP.
He said it was the best seedling he has ever had, by far.

Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam

So, a bit of a change of plans for 'Next Plant Up.' I'm going to up-pot a plant in two days in my prototype 2 Gal SIP bucket to send to flower in a couple of weeks after it gets some roots established in the larger container. I will describe the SIP pot construction tomorrow after I finish the...

www.420magazine.com

 

[CBDMed]

Uff!!! Hi DYNOMYCO!
We were rearranging things here, and it looks like my @DYNOMYCO and my Real Grower's Recharge got put in the other fridge for a couple of months.
It says not to refrigerate the @DYNOMYCO. Is it damaged? (Or degraded?) Or is it probably still OK?
Thanks!