New Mega Crop nothing like old?

I'm sure that @West Hippie did a mix for a while. Check in with him for his results.


Nice. I’ve done it in flower with rdwc to help mitigate normal pH drop, but didn’t think to drop calmag altogether. I did cut it back a tick, but not completely.
 
just my opinion,, but i would think a company like greenleaf nutrients, mega crop, that wishes to sell to the masses,, would understand their need to 'dumb down' the product a bit,, for those afore mentioned masses

i would think that certain growers on this forum, without mentioning the names , @Weaselcracker , and his scientist buddy @Skybound , and many others whom i will not mention either

i would think they might be able to improve on the formula in their laboratories

a 'feel' for this stuff is absolutely the kicker

i also use a touch of cal/mg, a cupfull each night before feeding day,, tho i have no idea if it helps cuz my plants mostly look deficient from either ph, feeding, light issues, powdery mildew, bugs, cats, heat, and other issues unknown

sure fun trying tho,,

I've been involved in beta-testing the firmware for a couple of... home entertainment devices. Which was kind of fun, and I got the devices gratis. It was also kind of a nightmare, because the firmware was far more "almost to the alpha stage" for the first half of the program. And I've done beta-testing for various computer software off and on for decades. That was fun, too - and, again, everything was free because I was doing work for the developers. But stressful in both cases. You never know when - and whether - you'll encounter disaster. It can end up teaching the normals how bipolar people experience the world (roller coaster).

You folks appear to have been beta-testing plant food :rofl: . Isn't beta-testing great? Sometimes, everything works great. Other times... it'll have you crying. Either way, never a dull moment ;).

Thanks for taking one for the team.
 
I’ve been contemplating on priming my RO with 20% tap, and dropping the calmag. Might be something there.

I'm using my well water that is treated with calcite (Calcium) to bring the pH out of the acidic range that was eating my copper pipes. Anyway, I had Ca deficiency in flower with that water until I added cal/mag and top dressed both plants with powdered dolomite lime. For me and my situation, Megacrop cannot be used without added cal/mag, despite me having the newest formula. I seem to have no problems until I get fully into flower and then it starts.
 
I'm using my well water that is treated with calcite (Calcium) to bring the pH out of the acidic range that was eating my copper pipes. Anyway, I had Ca deficiency in flower with that water until I added cal/mag and top dressed both plants with powdered dolomite lime. For me and my situation, Megacrop cannot be used without added cal/mag, despite me having the newest formula. I seem to have no problems until I get fully into flower and then it starts.

are you dwc @Rickstertp ?


i'm on ro which scrubs everything to 5ppm. there's really nothing in it, and i do fine on mc alone under lighting known to pull calmag out of the the plant more than usual.

not sure how that works but i suspect it's only dwc with this issue.
 
are you dwc @Rickstertp ?


i'm on ro which scrubs everything to 5ppm. there's really nothing in it, and i do fine on mc alone under lighting known to pull calmag out of the the plant more than usual.

not sure how that works but i suspect it's only dwc with this issue.

I'm growing in soil. Last grow was ProMix HP, this time it is Fox Farms Ocean Forest. I do wonder if my Kingbrite LED light is having an effect on it.
 
I'm growing in soil. Last grow was ProMix HP, this time it is Fox Farms Ocean Forest. I do wonder if my Kingbrite LED light is having an effect on it.

doubt it. i'm running pretty big cob rigs.

i'm in hempy which is even more neutral. you should have a little in the background. i watch for a cal deficiency hard in veg, and when i see the first signs i bump .5g/gal. usually mends things no trouble.
 
doubt it. i'm running pretty big cob rigs.

i'm in hempy which is even more neutral. you should have a little in the background. i watch for a cal deficiency hard in veg, and when i see the first signs i bump .5g/gal. usually mends things no trouble.

Problem for me is that bumping megacrop up was causing signs of N toxicity. Burned tips going along with obvious Ca deficiency signs, so I actually backed off on the megacrop and added full dose of cal/mag and that stopped both the Ca deficiency and the burned tips.
 
Problem for me is that bumping megacrop up was causing signs of N toxicity. Burned tips going along with obvious Ca deficiency signs, so I actually backed off on the megacrop and added full dose of cal/mag and that stopped both the Ca deficiency and the burned tips.


how burned are the tips and did it come with any fan leaf edging or spotting along the edges ?

i think i know what's going on, and your added cal mag isn't helping the cause if it's what i suspect.
 
how burned are the tips and did it come with any fan leaf edging or spotting along the edges ?

i think i know what's going on, and your added cal mag isn't helping the cause if it's what i suspect.
Man, leave us hanging... LOL
 
I'm using my well water that is treated with calcite (Calcium) to bring the pH out of the acidic range that was eating my copper pipes. Anyway, I had Ca deficiency in flower with that water until I added cal/mag and top dressed both plants with powdered dolomite lime.

The solubility of many compounds changes as the pH of the solution they are in changes. Calcite is one of these, but I do not remember the specifics. Things also happen to various compounds when certain other substances are mixed into the water (solution). Because of this, one change or combination of changes can precipitate (pardon the pun) other changes, which might go on to cause other things to change. It has been decades since Chemistry class. But I - vaguely - remember experiments in which pouring one clear solution into another one caused the "another" solution to change to a colored solution. Adding something else changed it into another color, or changed it back to clear. Adding one clear solution to another clear one turned it cloudy, or precipitated out "snowflakes." Et cetera.

It depended on what was in the "base solution," what was poured into it, pH, and (if I remember correctly) temperature. Unless we use 0 PPM water (which doesn't stay 0 PPM water when it gets exposed to the things in the air), the water that we use is a solution. And mine is different than yours, another person's is different than both of ours, etc. That means that the chemical reactions that take place (if any) when we mix up our nutrient solution can differ.The same person can even have two different sets of them when he/she mixes one batch at, for example, a pH of 6.5 and another batch at a pH of 5.85. Or if we are adding from two different sources (e.g., base nutrient and one or more supplement, or mixing from separate components) and change the order in which we add them to the water. Mixing in one order might result in everything being more or less dissolved into solution, while mixing in another order might result in... gypsum. Or something else.

A degree in organic chemistry isn't required. But it would sure help :D. However, it's really a good idea to have some knowledge of what is actually in the water we use. And to know what effect, if any, those substances will have on the other things we add to that water (and vice versa). Two different sets of substances can have (much) the same elements, but be completely different things. Different in how they react with something, different in solubility rates - and different in the degree to which a plant can use them.

Sometimes, a person will gain knowledge and experience with the set of nutrients that he/she uses, to the point at which he/she has great success with them. And then move to a different location, and suddenly begin experiencing issues. When that happens, it's generally because the makeup of the aqueous solution that we call "water" has changed. Or the person doesn't move, but the water they're using changes even though it's still coming from the same tap. That can happen seasonally, or for other reasons. The person might decide that the nutrient manufacturer(s) made changes without announcing them. And that can happen - but it's not always the cause for their sudden issues. Depending on one's plumbing, lol, it can even make a difference if they let their water run for 60-90 seconds before filling up the jugs, or just stick the jug under the faucet and then turn it on.

A water analysis is a great - but severely underused - tool, IMHO.

I'm just rambling. . . .
 
how burned are the tips and did it come with any fan leaf edging or spotting along the edges ?

i think i know what's going on, and your added cal mag isn't helping the cause if it's what i suspect.
Mostly the tips were burnt and curling up and the brown spots were in the center of the leaf closer to the base than the tip. I can't say there wasn't any spotting along the edge, but almost all was in the center. On top of that, the changes I made stopped the problem and the plants are nearing harvest looking very good. I welcome input though if you think there is more about my particular situation. Just to add, I had this problem with megacrop last time and I was using RO water with a ppm of under 10.
 
I'm using my well water that is treated with calcite (Calcium) to bring the pH out of the acidic range that was eating my copper pipes. Anyway, I had Ca deficiency in flower with that water until I added cal/mag and top dressed both plants with powdered dolomite lime. For me and my situation, Megacrop cannot be used without added cal/mag, despite me having the newest formula. I seem to have no problems until I get fully into flower and then it starts.

That’s been my thinking. I’m using RO that is about a 40ppm (700scale), and have definitely had the calmag looking issue with it. That was using calmag, too. However I don’t think I was adding enough early on, and it just never caught up.

I started pushing more early on (no nitrogen) about 6 or 7 months ago and it’s helped that. However, most of that time I haven’t been running MC either.
 
For those who's looking at this still, the new mega crop is giving me leaf discoloration, mostly to purple, with some dying. I trust this is too much MC, max was 6.25g, currently on 6g. Used bud xplosion for a month or so. Feeding water only every 3-4 feeding. Soil is promix hp. All my 3 plants are experiencing this, 2 master kush one northern light. Must be the gray looking mega crop
 

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Just had a bag delivered and I haven't opened it yet but it feels just like the old formula with the balls and big chunks. Emailed Greenleaf customer service and they just replied saying UK stock is the new formula. Okay then.
 
They emailed again saying they changed in May to no balls then in Aug back to balls that dissolve better. I haven't opened the bag still as I'm not keen on opening it before I actually need to use it. Sure feels like the original stuff I had last year though. Ah well, if it works and dissolves better as they've stated it'll all be good. Sorry if I'm repeating stuff you guys already know.
 
Wasn't aware there was a v4 out. Huh, imagine that.

I just started in with some v3. Figured I had it so might as well give it one more shot. RDWC, 20 gal, single plant.

I'll give them this off the bat: It sure is a lot cleaner than it was.


However, if they made a change so quickly, that tells me I probably should step back and re-evaluate the situation. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies, or look good on them if they throw out yet another new formula in a matter of 4 months.
 
Wasn't aware there was a v4 out. Huh, imagine that.

I just started in with some v3. Figured I had it so might as well give it one more shot. RDWC, 20 gal, single plant.

I'll give them this off the bat: It sure is a lot cleaner than it was.


However, if they made a change so quickly, that tells me I probably should step back and re-evaluate the situation. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies, or look good on them if they throw out yet another new formula in a matter of 4 months.

For all you guys having trouble with MC's contents, I implore you to read through my Hydro Buddy tutorial to learn how to make your own nutes from salts. I have the ability to change any one element as I see fit, plus I'm very certain of my elemental PPM. It only costs roughly $200 to buy all the salts and most of them will last years or a lifetime.
 

. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies

The NPK numbers haven't seemed to change all that much, but they can’t seem to stop playing with their balls. :rolleyes:


Also- from their website. -

“ The physical bag numbers for guaranteed analysis % represent a minimum guaranteed analysis for nutrient contents.... However, often times the actual content may be a lot higher than the bag label, and on our website will show the most exact numbers as far as % content.

..... We often change our formulas, but keep the same previous bags for convenience. So as long as the bag has the minimum amount still valid on the bags, we will reuse the same bags to avoid expensive costs of reprinting new ones, and wasting old ones.”

So I don’t know how accurate the numbers on my package are anyway.

 
I'm using my well water that is treated with calcite (Calcium) to bring the pH out of the acidic range that was eating my copper pipes. Anyway, I had Ca deficiency in flower with that water until I added cal/mag and top dressed both plants with powdered dolomite lime. For me and my situation, Megacrop cannot be used without added cal/mag, despite me having the newest formula. I seem to have no problems until I get fully into flower and then it starts.
I had similar problems with first grow using pro-mix. Our tap water is soft 3-8 ppm.
Started using cal-mag, re-using soil, and amending with DR Earth tomato vegetable and herb + Flower girl

I am using MC at about 4-5g.
 
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