New here, need help with DWC

Thanks for taking time to write this big comment, I really appreciate it.
You're welcome.

Ive heard about VPD but havent really used it to calculate the outcome, but as of now, after your comment, it seems more understandable.
It's a simple concept but it's an abstraction from the values that we deal with so frequently, temperature and RH. We see our environment in those terms so that's where we're most comfortable. In contrast, VPD is how the plant reacts to the environment and how the plant reacts is what counts.

I was already planning to decrease the EC of the nute mix and will change the res tomorrow. I dont have access to RO water, so the first option u mentioned wont help me.
I think I saw that your water supply was at 130PPM. That's fine as long as you know what's in your water, as long as it's consistent, and as long as you account for that when you're mixing your nutes.

And with the top off, I had recommendation here not to top off with anything and just change the reservoir, but would be happy to receive any other advices so please drop the pdf u were talking about.
Swapping the res is a valid approach. If you've got a small res, it's not a lot of labor but you're throwing out a lot of good nutrients. Topping off with RO or with nutrient solution are less labor intensive and cheaper since you're not tossing out nutrients. I've attached a paper that will give some insight into res management. The "mass balance" concept helps explain why it's perfectly acceptable to not throw out nutes. Jacks Nutrients are a popular dry fertilizer and in one of the videos on their web site, the people who work there explain that they use a res for about a month at a time.

When PPM in a solution drops from, say 800 to 500, the reservoir still has a lot of nutrients left in it. The biggest issue with nutrient levels dropping is that pH starts going out of range. That's one indicator that the res needs to be swapped.

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Checking out You Tube for vids on how plants take up nutrient is time well spent. Search on this in YT - "nutrient uptake in hydroponics". Bugbee videos are very helpful and the guy who hosts at scienceinhydroponics.com (check his video
but it gets pretty detailed) is a PhD chemist who wrote hydrobuddy so he's forgotten more about plant chemistry than I'll ever know.


Last time Rh was around 45 (few days ago), I think I can increase the box temp to 25-26, but Im concerned that might increase temp in the reservoir as well and that might become a problem, but will try. For dropping rh, possibly need dehumidifer, I have good air circulation in the box but it doesnt decrease the rh much. The EC for sure, already was planning to decrease from the next feeding, which is tomorrow.
The low temp is hampering growth but, IIRC, it looks like your plants are getting good light. Due to the latter, they're able to make food but the low temps reduce the ability to use that food.

A res at 20 will be OK but, above that, get a product like Hydroguard. That will keep bud rot at bay but 22° ambient temp is meat locker cold.

About the meters, I think my ppm meter is off, was using it for quite some time, EC meter is new so possible I was calculating ppm wrongly with the bad meter.
EC is helpful for making sure that your nutrient mix is correct when compared to what the manufacturer posts for the EC of a properly mix set of nutes. Once it goes in the pool, it's, at best, a weak proxy for what's in the res.

N, P, K, and Mg are taken up very quickly and they have little impact on EC. Ca and another chemical are the big dogs in terms of EC but they take days to be taken up.

Another confounder for growing in hydro is that you've got a small res. Per above, 3 gallons of res/square foot is a good sized res. My res is in an 8 sq ft tent and it holds 28 gallons. I do three res changes pet 110 day grow and pH is very predictable. I've used the RO top off method and, for this grow, am adding back nutrient solution. There's simply no need to throw out nutrients because the Earth has spun X times on its axis. That's mythology that costs a lot of time and help nute manufacturers make more money.
 

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i think you mean chelate and not cleat .... it is football season lol

edit: also if ph drifts it can't be fixed with a ph adjuster in the ph perfect nute line. it interacts with the nute causing the problems seen here. what you get is what you get.
Didn't noticed my auto correct was a sports fan. 😄

Should have emphasized more than one sentence on how PH adjuster fights the built in chemistry creating more issues.

800 PPM is not bad on most scales. 2.2 EC is way too high. It is over working the PH auto correcting abilities.
 
Hey hey, update!

The plants are doing nice. I think big one had some light intensity issues so i dimmed down the lights a bit.

I managed to increase the temp to 25-26, I also bought the dehumidifier but after 24 hours, the RH is still 60-65. Either the RH meter is wrong or the dehumidifer doesnt do the job.

In the same box, I also have soil plants and last 1-2 week im seeing that the bud development of the plant is very slow. I think one of the reason was light intensity so I moved it further, any other ideas?

Pics attached, it is same age as the big hydro.

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IMG_5239.jpeg


IMG_5241.jpeg


IMG_5238.jpeg


IMG_5204.jpeg


IMG_5201.jpeg


IMG_5200.jpeg
 
Hey hey, update!

The plants are doing nice. I think big one had some light intensity issues so i dimmed down the lights a bit.

I managed to increase the temp to 25-26, I also bought the dehumidifier but after 24 hours, the RH is still 60-65. Either the RH meter is wrong or the dehumidifer doesnt do the job.

In the same box, I also have soil plants and last 1-2 week im seeing that the bud development of the plant is very slow. I think one of the reason was light intensity so I moved it further, any other ideas?

Pics attached, it is same age as the big hydro.

IMG_5240.jpeg


IMG_5239.jpeg


IMG_5241.jpeg


IMG_5238.jpeg


IMG_5204.jpeg


IMG_5201.jpeg


IMG_5200.jpeg
Where is your dehuey located?
In the tent?
Is it sealed up?




Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
In the tent but I think its not fully sealed. I also have intake and outtake fans.
If you trying to reduce rh and increase heat you need to seal up your grow area.
The dehumidifier will create heat and drop rh in a sealed room.
Otherwise it's trying to drop rh in your lung room aswell.
If your lung room isn't sealed either it will just run and run.
I have a sealed lung room for air exchange.
I control the lung room to improve my actual conditions in my grow space.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Hey hey!

Some updates!

Both plants are looking better than ever. The buds are fattening for the Pink Love Poison and the Strawberry Gorilla also recovered.

Few notes and information about some changes and observations:
- Silica (Rhino Skin) I use mixes well with all the nutrients, and based on my testing, it had significant impact on the stem thickness.
- CalMag that I added to both reservoirs affected both plants, especially Strawberry Gorilla as it had excess Nitrogen from the CalMag I use (Sensi Calmagc, its 4-0-0 NPK) so I stopped giving it and the symtoms went away.

I managed to decrease RH to 40 and Temp is set on 26-27 which makes perfect conditions.

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