Delps8
Well-Known Member
You're welcome.Thanks for taking time to write this big comment, I really appreciate it.
It's a simple concept but it's an abstraction from the values that we deal with so frequently, temperature and RH. We see our environment in those terms so that's where we're most comfortable. In contrast, VPD is how the plant reacts to the environment and how the plant reacts is what counts.Ive heard about VPD but havent really used it to calculate the outcome, but as of now, after your comment, it seems more understandable.
I think I saw that your water supply was at 130PPM. That's fine as long as you know what's in your water, as long as it's consistent, and as long as you account for that when you're mixing your nutes.I was already planning to decrease the EC of the nute mix and will change the res tomorrow. I dont have access to RO water, so the first option u mentioned wont help me.
Swapping the res is a valid approach. If you've got a small res, it's not a lot of labor but you're throwing out a lot of good nutrients. Topping off with RO or with nutrient solution are less labor intensive and cheaper since you're not tossing out nutrients. I've attached a paper that will give some insight into res management. The "mass balance" concept helps explain why it's perfectly acceptable to not throw out nutes. Jacks Nutrients are a popular dry fertilizer and in one of the videos on their web site, the people who work there explain that they use a res for about a month at a time.And with the top off, I had recommendation here not to top off with anything and just change the reservoir, but would be happy to receive any other advices so please drop the pdf u were talking about.
When PPM in a solution drops from, say 800 to 500, the reservoir still has a lot of nutrients left in it. The biggest issue with nutrient levels dropping is that pH starts going out of range. That's one indicator that the res needs to be swapped.
Checking out You Tube for vids on how plants take up nutrient is time well spent. Search on this in YT - "nutrient uptake in hydroponics". Bugbee videos are very helpful and the guy who hosts at scienceinhydroponics.com (check his video
The low temp is hampering growth but, IIRC, it looks like your plants are getting good light. Due to the latter, they're able to make food but the low temps reduce the ability to use that food.Last time Rh was around 45 (few days ago), I think I can increase the box temp to 25-26, but Im concerned that might increase temp in the reservoir as well and that might become a problem, but will try. For dropping rh, possibly need dehumidifer, I have good air circulation in the box but it doesnt decrease the rh much. The EC for sure, already was planning to decrease from the next feeding, which is tomorrow.
A res at 20 will be OK but, above that, get a product like Hydroguard. That will keep bud rot at bay but 22° ambient temp is meat locker cold.
EC is helpful for making sure that your nutrient mix is correct when compared to what the manufacturer posts for the EC of a properly mix set of nutes. Once it goes in the pool, it's, at best, a weak proxy for what's in the res.About the meters, I think my ppm meter is off, was using it for quite some time, EC meter is new so possible I was calculating ppm wrongly with the bad meter.
N, P, K, and Mg are taken up very quickly and they have little impact on EC. Ca and another chemical are the big dogs in terms of EC but they take days to be taken up.
Another confounder for growing in hydro is that you've got a small res. Per above, 3 gallons of res/square foot is a good sized res. My res is in an 8 sq ft tent and it holds 28 gallons. I do three res changes pet 110 day grow and pH is very predictable. I've used the RO top off method and, for this grow, am adding back nutrient solution. There's simply no need to throw out nutrients because the Earth has spun X times on its axis. That's mythology that costs a lot of time and help nute manufacturers make more money.