New here, need help with DWC

Bill284 said:
That plant isn't eating properly either. :Namaste:
Not a good example for their nutrients.
Silicate is only to be used once a week.
Separately from your other nutrients.
They won't say that because you will use less and they make less money. :Namaste:
It's marketing for them.
Not concern for your garden.
Try what I'm suggesting for a few days it can't hurt.
If it works your golden.
If it doesn't no harm done.
But I've run hydroponic gardens for many years doing exactly what I described to you without issues. ;)




Stay safe
Bill284 😎
Click to expand...

I only mix silica once in dwc at the start of the week, then add plain water mid week when she empties some water in reservoir.

I dont have still water now, if I will change the reservoir now, will need to use tap water right way which I dont want.

I dont doubt your experience 🙏 just also trying to understand the WHYs without just doing them.

I will check how plant will be next 2 days and if I wont see any improvement, will change the reservoir and do as you say, Im still figuring out.

Thanks for the quick replies and time mate!
 
VBGrows said:
Advanced Nutrients feeding schedule

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Marketing for their nutrients. :Namaste: That's what that is.
I could use just 3 of those ingredients and have a spectacular garden. Seriously just 3.
Or I could spend hundreds of dollars on all those nutrients and have a headache.
Some are highly beneficial some and mildly helpful.
But not everyone is essential every feed.
Use what you have just drop silicate for now and add calmag first.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
VBGrows said:
I only mix silica once in dwc at the start of the week, then add plain water mid week when she empties some water in reservoir.

I dont have still water now, if I will change the reservoir now, will need to use tap water right way which I dont want.

I dont doubt your experience 🙏 just also trying to understand the WHYs without just doing them.

I will check how plant will be next 2 days and if I wont see any improvement, will change the reservoir and do as you say, Im still figuring out.

Thanks for the quick replies and time mate!
Click to expand...
Finish your reservoir , don't waste it.
Next feed is a good place to start.
It'll help.;)
Have a great day my friend.
Talk soon.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Bill284 said:
Marketing for their nutrients. :Namaste: That's what that is.
I could use just 3 of those ingredients and have a spectacular garden. Seriously just 3.
Or I could spend hundreds of dollars on all those nutrients and have a headache.
Some are highly beneficial some and mildly helpful.
But not everyone is essential every feed.
Use what you have just drop silicate for now and add calmag first.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
Click to expand...

Bill284 said:
Marketing for their nutrients. :Namaste: That's what that is.
I could use just 3 of those ingredients and have a spectacular garden. Seriously just 3.
Or I could spend hundreds of dollars on all those nutrients and have a headache.
Some are highly beneficial some and mildly helpful.
But not everyone is essential every feed.
Use what you have just drop silicate for now and add calmag first.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
Click to expand...

I know its marketing, I had amazing results with these in the soil so I just like to test stuff.

Also, as you say 3, which 3 are u think most important and which could be dropped?

Last time in soil Iused only
Grow Micro Bloom
In veg

Big bud in mid bloom
Overdrive in late bloom
Bud factor x whole bloom

+b52 and tasty terpenes for mid bloom.

I’ve grown this Amnezia Haze Auto with them in 108 days, 350-400g dry total.

I was just thinking that in dwc, there more nutes and addatives are needed, but im sure im wrong, so help me please understand whats most important.

IMG_5085.jpeg
 
VBGrows said:
I know its marketing, I had amazing results with these in the soil so I just like to test stuff.

Also, as you say 3, which 3 are u think most important and which could be dropped?

Last time in soil Iused only
Grow Micro Bloom
In veg

Big bud in mid bloom
Overdrive in late bloom
Bud factor x whole bloom

+b52 and tasty terpenes for mid bloom.

I’ve grown this Amnezia Haze Auto with them in 108 days, 350-400g dry total.

I was just thinking that in dwc, there more nutes and addatives are needed, but im sure im wrong, so help me please understand whats most important.

IMG_5085.jpeg
Click to expand...
You nailed it, micro , grow and bloom.
You can adjust these 3 ingredients depending on stage of development, seedling , veg , transition or flower.
Great nutrients.
The other stuff can be helpful and very beneficial.
But not necessary for a successful outcome.
Great freeken plant btw.:adore:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Bill284 said:
You nailed it, micro , grow and bloom.
You can adjust these 3 ingredients depending on stage of development, seedling , veg , transition or flower.
Great nutrients.
The other stuff can be helpful and very beneficial.
But not necessary for a successful outcome.
Great freeken plant btw.:adore:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
Click to expand...
Thats where I want to be going, adjusting these 3 properly, but I dont, because Im still not sure how to do it. I gave her 2ml/L whole grow (and 3ml/L mid bloom), each of them
 
VBGrows said:
Thats where I want to be going, adjusting these 3 properly, but I dont, because Im still not sure how to do it. I gave her 2ml/L whole grow (and 3ml/L mid bloom), each of them
Click to expand...
Just follow the schedule for now.
Micro, grow and bloom will be fine in the ratios recommended.
When you can read the plant and see what’s needed then you can adjust things yourself.
Get her healthy and growing well first.
Then you can see the growth and what works well.
When you have too much going on it’s hard to tell what works and what isn’t. :Namaste:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
VBGrows said:
my friend just sent me this, pebbles dropped in the water from broken netpot. It this dangerous for the plant?

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Click to expand...
Hydroton pebbles.
Not a issue just lift them out.



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
VBGrows said:
my friend just sent me this, pebbles dropped in the water from broken netpot. It this dangerous for the plant?

IMG_5135.jpeg
Click to expand...
The only thing I see left out but maybe the nutrients you use you don't need it . We found out our led light has us use more calmag to the fresh bucket to accommodate the light . Plus I use megs crop for my hydro as like you I came into 420 Magazine using advanced nutrients the full line at 100% . Still had to add calmag back then , even had advanced nutrients walk me through it and all of my numbers ppm matched and said ph of 5.5 to start as when I called first thing they asked if I was using ro water . Your water at 130 ppm is awesome because my tap is over 300 ppm at 8.3 ph . Wondering if you adjust your tap water to 6.8 then mix the nutrients if it would help . It's a thought . Anything to slow the upswing of the ph moving so fast . Reason for ph change in the tap water is my ro water is 6.3-6.8 if this helps .
 
West Hippie said:
The only thing I see left out but maybe the nutrients you use you don't need it . We found out our led light has us use more calmag to the fresh bucket to accommodate the light . Plus I use megs crop for my hydro as like you I came into 420 Magazine using advanced nutrients the full line at 100% . Still had to add calmag back then , even had advanced nutrients walk me through it and all of my numbers ppm matched and said ph of 5.5 to start as when I called first thing they asked if I was using ro water . Your water at 130 ppm is awesome because my tap is over 300 ppm at 8.3 ph . Wondering if you adjust your tap water to 6.8 then mix the nutrients if it would help . It's a thought . Anything to slow the upswing of the ph moving so fast . Reason for ph change in the tap water is my ro water is 6.3-6.8 if this helps .
Click to expand...
So u think I should decrease watter ppm first to 6.8 and then add nutes? I will try this, thanks!
 
VBGrows said:
So u think I should decrease watter ppm first to 6.8 and then add nutes? I will try this, thanks!
Click to expand...
I use 4 mL calmag a gallon but you have a different nutrients and i would try 2 mL to start and if that doesn't satisfy your girls try the 4 mL .
 
You need and analysis of what is in your water. If you have white powder build up on faucets or shower heads you already have calcium. Adding too much can create PH and lock out issues.

You are running a 15L res when full, but the plant drinks, level drops. This is enough to support up to a 60cm plant max. The closer you get to that size or beyond the res will not remain stable. Too much root for the water to gas off.
Your plant should be drawing up equal portions of food and water. PPM should remain the same as the water level drops. Fluctuating PPM indicates over feeding (PPM rise PH drop) or under feeding (PPM drops PH rise). Stable PPM with PH shift is either nutrient mix imbalance or water aeration issue. Roots expelling CO2 into the water will drop PH while aeration will displace CO2. 21C is the point where water starts holding more CO2 and less O2. As the roots respiration rate changes over 24 hours a small res will shift wildly.

When you are preparing a res you need to set the PH between 5.5 and 6.8 and check it every 15 minutes until it is stable before adding anything. Add cal mag, wait and stable again. Add nutrient, wait and stable again to 5.8. Hydro tone and roots will bring some of that old res PH over to the fresh res. If you are way off, soak the roots in PH water for few minutes to neutralize before swapping in a new nutrient res.
 
Sativa1970 said:
You need and analysis of what is in your water. If you have white powder build up on faucets or shower heads you already have calcium. Adding too much can create PH and lock out issues.

You are running a 15L res when full, but the plant drinks, level drops. This is enough to support up to a 60cm plant max. The closer you get to that size or beyond the res will not remain stable. Too much root for the water to gas off.
Your plant should be drawing up equal portions of food and water. PPM should remain the same as the water level drops. Fluctuating PPM indicates over feeding (PPM rise PH drop) or under feeding (PPM drops PH rise). Stable PPM with PH shift is either nutrient mix imbalance or water aeration issue. Roots expelling CO2 into the water will drop PH while aeration will displace CO2. 21C is the point where water starts holding more CO2 and less O2. As the roots respiration rate changes over 24 hours a small res will shift wildly.

When you are preparing a res you need to set the PH between 5.5 and 6.8 and check it every 15 minutes until it is stable before adding anything. Add cal mag, wait and stable again. Add nutrient, wait and stable again to 5.8. Hydro tone and roots will bring some of that old res PH over to the fresh res. If you are way off, soak the roots in PH water for few minutes to neutralize before swapping in a new nutrient res.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks for that response, good insights.

i think right now my main problem could be nutrient mix imbalance, I havent thought about that before.

Will try adjusting and waiting before changing the reservoir
 
Over feeding any one nutrient will throw off your PH and saturate the plant. When you change the res excess nutrient in the plant are pushed into the lower concentration of the water. You can spot this issue if your PPM/PH jump up shortly after res change. Letting her sit a few hours in plain PH water will flush her out and give you a clean slate to start from. You should only have a minor PH and PPM shift in the flush water.
 
Sativa1970 said:
Over feeding any one nutrient will throw off your PH and saturate the plant. When you change the res excess nutrient in the plant are pushed into the lower concentration of the water. You can spot this issue if your PPM/PH jump up shortly after res change. Letting her sit a few hours in plain PH water will flush her out and give you a clean slate to start from. You should only have a minor PH and PPM shift in the flush water.
Click to expand...
I haven't had any ppm fluctuation throughout the grow. ppm was always stable, but pH was always rising.
 
Did you rinse and neutralize the hydro tone before use? Is your hydro tone getting wet and dripping back into the res? Take a sample of water and test PH. Drop an equal volume of clay balls in the sample and test again. If the clay balls are causing PH to drift up you can still neutralize them. Place the basket over an empty bucket. Pour 10L of PH5.5 water over the media from the top. Return the plant to the res.
 
Okay update, her issues wasnt improved, I didnt like the look of it today.

I had 14L water bucket filled 24h ago.

Adjusted ph to 6.2, waited 20-25 min but the ph didnt drift up. I added Calmag 2ml/L and waited 15 mins, ph was 6.1. Added grow micro bloom 3ml/L and Big bud 2ml/L, adjusted ph to 5.8 and waited for 20 mins. Ph was still 5.8.

I rinsed my plant in 5.8 ph adjusted water for around 30 mins before I was changing the reservoir.

After putting the plant back with new mixture, waited for around 30 mins and ph went up to 6.0 and I have adjusted it back to 5.8.

I will check the plant tomorrow

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