New Grower

I was asking for multiple reasons . Where is the plant with the leaf issues in regards to your res? meaning is it one of the first ones connect in line?
now in regards to ph 5.8 is a recommended sweet spot .I recommend not micromanaging it. I let mine drift throughout the full scale of 5.5-6.3 and when I move it I move it slowly a couple a points every hour until im back to 5.8 . in regards to the drift with everything in check yes it is due to the feeding of the plants when there is no sign of root issues (which I don't think you have).
when you adjust it dilute the up or down in solution prior to adding it I use about 10ml of up to a gallon of solution and I use a lot less of my down as it is very strong ...I use gh up and advanced down. once diluted add a little at a time and let it circulate paying attention to how much you added and how much it has moved. In doing this you will learn exactly how much to add to move it a said number of points up or down.

Now you should check the calibration of your meter at least once a month. I have a blue lad guardian monitoring my res around the clock and i have a blue lab handheld as well as a generic ...now for some real fun ...there is about a .2 difference between my handhelds and my guardian when testing solutions but calibrations solutions are spot on. All meters have an acceptable margin of error which is another reason i do not micro manage my ph… i have seen my ph drift from 6.0 to 5.5 in a day and turn right back around and drift back up …

now one other way you can manage your ph is when you top off your res ….when you top off are you using water or nutrient solution _
 
I was asking for multiple reasons . Where is the plant with the leaf issues in regards to your res? meaning is it one of the first ones connect in line?
now in regards to ph 5.8 is a recommended sweet spot .I recommend not micromanaging it. I let mine drift throughout the full scale of 5.5-6.3 and when I move it I move it slowly a couple a points every hour until im back to 5.8 . in regards to the drift with everything in check yes it is due to the feeding of the plants when there is no sign of root issues (which I don't think you have).
when you adjust it dilute the up or down in solution prior to adding it I use about 10ml of up to a gallon of solution and I use a lot less of my down as it is very strong ...I use gh up and advanced down. once diluted add a little at a time and let it circulate paying attention to how much you added and how much it has moved. In doing this you will learn exactly how much to add to move it a said number of points up or down.

Now you should check the calibration of your meter at least once a month. I have a blue lad guardian monitoring my res around the clock and i have a blue lab handheld as well as a generic ...now for some real fun ...there is about a .2 difference between my handhelds and my guardian when testing solutions but calibrations solutions are spot on. All meters have an acceptable margin of error which is another reason i do not micro manage my ph… i have seen my ph drift from 6.0 to 5.5 in a day and turn right back around and drift back up …

now one other way you can manage your ph is when you top off your res ….when you top off are you using water or nutrient solution _
The plant is on 2nd lane it’s a 3 lane system when I tip I I just use plain water then adjust ph leave it to get round system for abit then check adjust if needed
 
1805236
Looks like the inside of Cheech & Chong's UFO
 
The plant is on 2nd lane it’s a 3 lane system when I tip I I just use plain water then adjust ph leave it to get round system for abit then check adjust if needed
alright . Well all dwc is not created equal. I say that because im running an ec of .7 here in week 5 of flower . mine runs low because with the aeration system I installed in my system is very efficient so I can run a weaker solution I see signs of overfertilization /burning tips and edges etc at an ec of 1.2. Now I use a top off reservoir that automatically fills my system to a specific level and it is filled with nutrient solution . I keep roughly 40 gallons in the system at all times . Monitoring it my plants take up 5 galls a day so they are almost doing a complete change out every 7 days . however I still change the solution on the 7th day with a fresh batch as well as mix up fresh nutes for the top off container . now depending on how much and how often you are having to top off as well as what the solution strength is reading at that time. it may be beneficial to you to top of with a ph'd nutrient solution instead of plain water. This is just another one of those things where you need to find your way , just like I stated when we talked about defoliation .

now I have said all that because your leaf issue could be calcium deficiency and it could be molybdenum or it could even be boron deficiency as they closely resemble each other. at any rate they are all related to solution strength as well as ph ..to prevent and cure these kinds of issues you must develop your routine in the upkeep of your nutrient solution in your system . The way I monitor and do mine is one way . In any regard never add ph up or down directly into your system without it having been diluted and do not make severe quick changes in your ph as these things can cause issues of there own . That is why I was asking for the location of that plant in the system.

Is is all new to me I’m basic to it all may sound thick but I’ll get hang of it soon lol
You are doing just fine ..these are just tips ...use them as you see fit .
 
alright . Well all dwc is not created equal. I say that because im running an ec of .7 here in week 5 of flower . mine runs low because with the aeration system I installed in my system is very efficient so I can run a weaker solution I see signs of overfertilization /burning tips and edges etc at an ec of 1.2. Now I use a top off reservoir that automatically fills my system to a specific level and it is filled with nutrient solution . I keep roughly 40 gallons in the system at all times . Monitoring it my plants take up 5 galls a day so they are almost doing a complete change out every 7 days . however I still change the solution on the 7th day with a fresh batch as well as mix up fresh nutes for the top off container . now depending on how much and how often you are having to top off as well as what the solution strength is reading at that time. it may be beneficial to you to top of with a ph'd nutrient solution instead of plain water. This is just another one of those things where you need to find your way , just like I stated when we talked about defoliation .

now I have said all that because your leaf issue could be calcium deficiency and it could be molybdenum or it could even be boron deficiency as they closely resemble each other. at any rate they are all related to solution strength as well as ph ..to prevent and cure these kinds of issues you must develop your routine in the upkeep of your nutrient solution in your system . The way I monitor and do mine is one way . In any regard never add ph up or down directly into your system without it having been diluted and do not make severe quick changes in your ph as these things can cause issues of there own . That is why I was asking for the location of that plant in the system.


You are doing just fine ..these are just tips ...use them as you see fit .
Thanks for all input I’ll take it it all on board I’m going to do a water change tomorrow and start fresh nutes and so on
 
looking good..now is the time to start watching your humidity levels to prevent but molds and rot ...not just during the day but night time (you can check it at lights come on if you are there, that's another reason I have a green light ) as humidity will always spike up at night .
 
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