New grower questions

That i learned fast when I didn't follow the chart for feeding. Just feel like she's a bit small to flower but I guess it's on the mark at 5 weeks. We will see what happens. Thanks for the advice
Remember this not all strains of Cannabis grow the same way. Example some grow tall other's stay close to the ground but grow out horizontally. When you purchase seeds read the info, they normally provide that info. So, if you are growing 3 different strains at one time in the same tent try to grow ones that won't overtake the space you have and overwhelm the plants that grow shorter. At least that's how I roll.
 
Hey tokin , just a couple picture drops , and some simple questions if you don't mind. So here's pics of my one plant. She's been in veg for a little over a month now , and I'm wondering if she's wanting to go to the bloom stage already. Maybe it's still early but if not she seems really small to be blooming already. It's tropical purple cookies auto. Any tips would be appreciated.

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One pistol ( the clear/ white hair) growing out of a node (where the stem splits) is a sign of maturity. Two growing together out of one node is the start of flower. I am seeing doubles and possibly a triple so yes you are fully into flower. Just let her run through flower from this point. She won't get any bigger , being an auto.
 
Hey all, just wanted to update. I figured out a major problem I was creating for my ladies and it was thanks to the journals I've been looking into that I figured it out. My light is a 1000w with a veg and bloom switch, basically figured out I need to run both switches on at all times ( with the schedule) . Just this week alone the ladies have doubled in size. Will add pics. Not starting a journal till new seeds are planted, to much learning with this one. Also trying to figure out ec in my soil. But my ppm is going good and the lady looks good so I'm just watching. Thanks all that give advice. @Tokin Roll @Greenvein @Zeefarmer

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Here's the journal

Hey tokin, seeing about some advice, long story short I was in a bad wreck and my friends messed up the light schedule so my purple ghost candy is in early bloom/flower. But I'm wondering what these leaves look like now that I'm home.
Run off is 6.0 ph, 1100 us/cm , 550 ppm. Alot of the plant looks healthy, so im hoping to stop it early. Soil is ffof, and anyone else that can help too.
@Greenvein @Tokin Roll

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The switches on your light are adding red and blue spectrum to the light most likely. It was common to run blue veg and red flower when we still switched light fixtures. Now we know both are good all the time with LED.

If you don't have these save the image for future reference. Look at potassium deficiency.
leaf chart.jpg

Second chart verifies what leaves are effected by the nutrient. Potassium deficiency effects old growth leaves too much effects new growth leaves.
mobile-and-non-mobile-nutrients.gif
 
How close are your plants to the light and what is the light set on?
Most of your damage looks like it was cause by heat and light damage.

Try backing off your light by 20% and raise it up to about 20 inches.
How far along are you in veg?

Hope this helps.

Stay safe and grow well my friend,
Tok..

edit: Is your plant a auto or photo?
The leaf he is holding has that tie dyed light burn look but it is from the lower part of the plant. Tops look good so it isn't light burn.
 
The switches on your light are adding red and blue spectrum to the light most likely. It was common to run blue veg and red flower when we still switched light fixtures. Now we know both are good all the time with LED.

If you don't have these save the image for future reference. Look at potassium deficiency.
leaf chart.jpg

Second chart verifies what leaves are effected by the nutrient. Potassium deficiency effects old growth leaves too much effects new growth leaves.
mobile-and-non-mobile-nutrients.gif
Both switches were on , but before the post I thought it could be light, so i switched to just the bloom setting/red. It is a very helpful chart too. Thank you, I'm going to proceed with just the one switch, and do a flush and a good feed. I appreciate the help
 
It has been mentioned but do not chase numbers. Most of it is not needed in a soil grow. So much of what is happening to provide the numbers is being taken care of by the microbes and other soil organisms. The life cycle of all that soil life is changing the numbers so many times the grower just ends up chasing them and getting nowhere.

The only number of concern is the pH of the water as it is being poured onto the soil.
I'm using Dr earth soil mix , and adding nutrients.
I added my calmag to the water but my nutrients i mix in the soil. And the soil is brand new , it's dr earths potting soil
But I'm wondering what these leaves look like now that I'm home.
Run off is 6.0 ph, 1100 us/cm , 550 ppm. Alot of the plant looks healthy, so im hoping to stop it early. Soil is ffof, and anyone else that can help too.
You are in soil. Either in one of the ones from Dr Earth or now in ffof which is probably Fox Farms Ocean Forest. Both are considered to be decent soils.

Are the plants in the msg from the other day the same plants as in the first several messages from October 5th? Gotta ask since it has been just over 13 weeks ago.

but before the post I thought it could be light, so i switched to just the bloom setting/red. It is a very helpful chart too. Thank you, I'm going to proceed with just the one switch, and do a flush and a good feed. I appreciate the help
Why are you doing a flush? The idea that a flush will be needed in a dirt & compost based soil has pretty much been proven wrong. Flushing hydroponic style grows is a different story.

By now you have had a chance to check out the chart that @Sativa1970 provided. He mentioned potassium and it does look like a potassium shortage well underway. Since potassium is a mobile nutrient the plant is taking everything it can get from the older and larger fan leaves and moving it to the most recent of the growing leaves, stem and any flowers.

By the way, no one has asked yet, what is the line of fertilizers and nutrients that you are using? What is the feeding schedule including how often and how much of the fertilizers?
 
It has been mentioned but do not chase numbers. Most of it is not needed in a soil grow. So much of what is happening to provide the numbers is being taken care of by the microbes and other soil organisms. The life cycle of all that soil life is changing the numbers so many times the grower just ends up chasing them and getting nowhere.

The only number of concern is the pH of the water as it is being poured onto the soil.



You are in soil. Either in one of the ones from Dr Earth or now in ffof which is probably Fox Farms Ocean Forest. Both are considered to be decent soils.

Are the plants in the msg from the other day the same plants as in the first several messages from October 5th? Gotta ask since it has been just over 13 weeks ago.


Why are you doing a flush? The idea that a flush will be needed in a dirt & compost based soil has pretty much been proven wrong. Flushing hydroponic style grows is a different story.

By now you have had a chance to check out the chart that @Sativa1970 provided. He mentioned potassium and it does look like a potassium shortage well underway. Since potassium is a mobile nutrient the plant is taking everything it can get from the older and larger fan leaves and moving it to the most recent of the growing leaves, stem and any flowers.

By the way, no one has asked yet, what is the line of fertilizers and nutrients that you are using? What is the feeding schedule including how often and how much of the fertilizers?
I use fox farm big 3 and calmag . The soil is ocean forest. And yes the purple ghost candy is the same, in the earlier posts I had mentioned different strains.
As I stated I was hospitalized for a long time and I'm honestly surprised it's alive. Shout out to seedsman and ocean forest for that.
But yes I use fox farm but the whole time I was gone the plant only got tap water no feedings. My normal is 2 times a week. And I'm flushing to get the salts out that might be from the tap, that way I can give a good feeding. That's what I've been told but maybe research is needed.
 
It has been mentioned but do not chase numbers. Most of it is not needed in a soil grow. So much of what is happening to provide the numbers is being taken care of by the microbes and other soil organisms. The life cycle of all that soil life is changing the numbers so many times the grower just ends up chasing them and getting nowhere.

The only number of concern is the pH of the water as it is being poured onto the soil.



You are in soil. Either in one of the ones from Dr Earth or now in ffof which is probably Fox Farms Ocean Forest. Both are considered to be decent soils.

Are the plants in the msg from the other day the same plants as in the first several messages from October 5th? Gotta ask since it has been just over 13 weeks ago.


Why are you doing a flush? The idea that a flush will be needed in a dirt & compost based soil has pretty much been proven wrong. Flushing hydroponic style grows is a different story.

By now you have had a chance to check out the chart that @Sativa1970 provided. He mentioned potassium and it does look like a potassium shortage well underway. Since potassium is a mobile nutrient the plant is taking everything it can get from the older and larger fan leaves and moving it to the most recent of the growing leaves, stem and any flowers.

By the way, no one has asked yet, what is the line of fertilizers and nutrients that you are using? What is the feeding schedule including how often and how much of the fertilizers?
Those earlier posts , the dr earth did good , but my nutrients were miracle grow, and I stopped using that before this plant
 
I'm flushing to get the salts out that might be from the tap
Your tap water shouldn't have heavy salts if it is potable, safe, drinking water. Calcium is the only macro that should be in the water and only in amounts safe for plants and humans. Look at the same chart I posted on minerals. Notice the effect of abundance of micro minerals has nothing checked. Over feeding micros is nearly impossible.

There is an issue with the term "flushing". In a synthetic grow, flushing is 2-3X the media volume in PH water to zero out the media. In organic I have herd the term flush used to describe .5X up to 1X the media for a similar zeroing, used only in extreme cases. More of a heavy watering to rehydrate or dilute accidental contaminants. You loose microbe colony and available nutrients so there needs to be a good reason.
 
Your tap water shouldn't have heavy salts if it is potable, safe, drinking water. Calcium is the only macro that should be in the water and only in amounts safe for plants and humans. Look at the same chart I posted on minerals. Notice the effect of abundance of micro minerals has nothing checked. Over feeding micros is nearly impossible.

There is an issue with the term "flushing". In a synthetic grow, flushing is 2-3X the media volume in PH water to zero out the media. In organic I have herd the term flush used to describe .5X up to 1X the media for a similar zeroing, used only in extreme cases. More of a heavy watering to rehydrate or dilute accidental contaminants. You loose microbe colony and available nutrients so there needs to be a good reason.
Good information. Another question on flushing. In soil do you flush before havest and stop feeding? My last harvest is flushed and let the plant sit in darkness for 3 days before I chopped
 
No science backing flushing or darkness before harvest. If you are in synthetic and using extreme levels of nutes a flush is a band aid on a bigger issue. Otherwise no reason to ever flush, especially in organic.

Light creates bulk, cannabinoids and terpenes. Dark period just stops all production. There is nothing to be gained from a dormant plant and it is using resources to survive without light. If you are aiming for high cannabinoid and low mineral the best time to harvest is at lights out. Time of day harvest will make a difference on a spectrometer but no noticeable difference on the bong meter.

Ignore dark period and flushing. Focus on dry and cure if you want to make a big difference in quality. This step can salvage a bad grow or destroy a perfect bud.
 
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