My Introduction To DWC Hydroponics

I would agree with Rexer …some drift is good… never usually above 6.4 ..I’d keep it 5.7-6.2 .
using ph buffer constantly isn’t a good thing .
I RARELY had to adjust ph in between buckets ..the plants will definitely tell you what they need …they Provide quick feedback in hydro vs. Soil .

be sure to do a weekly ( or bi weekly) 100 bucket change ..always starting with a silicon ( if you use it ) followed by Cali mag, then nutes, ONLY THEN , ADJUST PH IF NECESSARY. if you mix your nutes at the recommended feeding schedule provided , the ph should fall within acceptable limits without Needing ph up or down ..in my experience

you got this :goodluck:
 
Northern Hydro said:
I would agree with Rexer …some drift is good… never usually above 6.4 ..I’d keep it 5.7-6.2 .
using ph buffer constantly isn’t a good thing .
I RARELY had to adjust ph in between buckets ..the plants will definitely tell you what they need …they Provide quick feedback in hydro vs. Soil .

be sure to do a weekly ( or bi weekly) 100 bucket change ..always starting with a silicon ( if you use it ) followed by Cali mag, then nutes, ONLY THEN , ADJUST PH IF NECESSARY. if you mix your nutes at the recommended feeding schedule provided , the ph should fall within acceptable limits without Needing ph up or down ..in my experience

you got this :goodluck:
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100% bucket change you mean?
 
Before @InTheShed spots the white pistols atop the Northern Autos I say are harvest ready, I should say.

These here girls are post meja meaning they have had a foliar shower in meja. As such, they are capable of continuation of active bloom should I choose. I choose. I can keep her in bloom for a couple more weeks if I choose. We gave all three plants a second misting of meja at the beginning of the drought, and that is why we see active bloom. I might leave her bulk a while longer, although we wish to go no longer than another week.

As for her trike colors, they are all there. Clear, milky, and amber. All three plants will be used in making capsulated meds.
 
You go man! Beautiful!
 
Maritimer said:
Sunday morning.

Bucket Level = down 1/4 inch
Fluid Temp = 70.8*
Yesterdays close= 1020 ppm. PH 5.95
First check = 1020 ppm. PH 5.97
Add 800 ml RO = top off
2nd Check = 485 ppm. PH 5.98
I was surprised and went for a dab before rechecking.
Recheck = 480 ppm. PH 5.99
Adjusted for PH add 1/2 ml down = PH 5.16 (too much)
add 1/4 up = PH 5.82
Final record = 482 ppm. PH 5.82

Going by what @Hafta says she ate a lot of her available chow? over half? does this sound right?
she looks good this morning. i will grab a picture
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If those are the correct numbers- it means she feasted like it was an all you can eat buffet :thumb:
Not very often will you see such a huge drop! She's dialed in if she's feeding like that 😊
 
Rexer said:
If those are the correct numbers- it means she feasted like it was an all you can eat buffet :thumb:
Not very often will you see such a huge drop! She's dialed in if she's feeding like that 😊
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Ahoy me bro,
You sir have just made my day in a huge way. :hookah: :bongrip:👩‍🌾:love:
 
Rexer said:
If those are the correct numbers- it means she feasted like it was an all you can eat buffet :thumb:
Not very often will you see such a huge drop! She's dialed in if she's feeding like that 😊
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Exactly! …so instead of adding ph down …i would leave it for a day and see if her water and ppm/ec still continues to drop and then I would top up with some new water and some food , vs. Ph down . (veg food nutes are acidic and usually LOWER ph ) never, going more than 10 -14 days without a bucket change .

getting to know what each nutrient you are using actually does and how it affects your ph really helps in this regard .
Plants take up different nutrients at different ph’s …so she could be drifting to get that need ..if you don’t allow her to do that somewhat you will start to see deficiencies.

and yep..i meant 100 percent water/ bucket change ..I would have a new bucket ready with new food , pick up the plant and put it directly into a new bucket with New soup .
I tried to syphon it off during one run due to using a scrog while training a canopy because I broke my leg and couldn’t lift and move 5 gallon water buckets and it didn’t work out....so then I looked into flood and drain tables but I like to grow different strains and every strain requires something different at different times in my experience …so finally, I figured out soil and I’m working on patience because soil is so slow

hydro undoubtedly, taught me how to read the plants ..you got this
 
Maritimer said:
Hello my friend,
The full line on my buckets is ~~1 inch below my net cups. My man @Rexer directed the establishment of where my full bucket needed to be. But thanks for all for the input. We watch for everything.

Mrs. Maritimer was hinting around at attempting to replicate your wife's 110+ year old ginger cookies. She took one a day to work at Amazon and said they helped her better than my gummies. I ate one, and she ate the rest. Did not share with other folks. I tried to shame her, and it failed.
Hope you guys are well. :love:
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@Maritimer

Mrs. Hafta asked how your first attempt at 110 year old cookies turned out.
 
Ahoy There,
We been doing time in the trim jail; I must admit the duty I do not relish. 👩‍🌾

The bucket change went smoother with me being less confused about what to do. Tip of the Stetson to my helpers:love:

I think I need to consider my bucket changes relative to my plant's petite stature. She is a little squirt compared to her germination sisters living in peat. A few more runs will change that I'm betting. I will go grab a picture.

Anyhow, I am feeding her medium strength that puts me a tad over 1000 ppm. and next day I end up lowering EC (dilution) to get her feeding. Can't I make her chow a tad weaker than the labels? If she was big as her sisters maybe she would need all that ppm. but I think she is too small to handle it. Am I getting this right, kinda?
 
Maritimer said:
Ahoy There,
We been doing time in the trim jail; I must admit the duty I do not relish. 👩‍🌾

The bucket change went smoother with me being less confused about what to do. Tip of the Stetson to my helpers:love:

I think I need to consider my bucket changes relative to my plant's petite stature. She is a little squirt compared to her germination sisters living in peat. A few more runs will change that I'm betting. I will go grab a picture.

Anyhow, I am feeding her medium strength that puts me a tad over 1000 ppm. and next day I end up lowering EC (dilution) to get her feeding. Can't I make her chow a tad weaker than the labels? If she was big as her sisters maybe she would need all that ppm. but I think she is too small to handle it. Am I getting this right, kinda?
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Personally,
I never reach the prescribed ppm. I'm usually 75 - 80% of the suggested strength.

I look for the tiny little yellow tip on the leaves. This means I am ALMOST overfeeding.
BD22 D47 Leaf Tip.JPG
 
Hafta said:
Personally,
I never reach the prescribed ppm. I'm usually 75 - 80% of the suggested strength.

I look for the tiny little yellow tip on the leaves. This means I am ALMOST overfeeding.
BD22 D47 Leaf Tip.JPG
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So, it is alright to tinker with the strength? I knew the label was too strong, but I did not want to back off all the way to the next lower label schedule thinking that was too low.

I asked Mrs Maritimer about making the Old Ginger Cookies like your wife made for us a while back. She said something to the effect of it looks too hard. I am afraid her idea of baking comes in a tube already to go. So the story goes, if I want them, I will have to make them. LOL
 
Maritimer said:
Anyhow, I am feeding her medium strength that puts me a tad over 1000 ppm. and next day I end up lowering EC (dilution) to get her feeding. Can't I make her chow a tad weaker than the labels?
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You can, and definitely should back down, especially if you have to dilute each time.
The labels for the strength part, are a very loose guide. Seriously, don't pay too much heed to it, other than ensuring your ratios are correct.

It goes back to reading the plant and the reservoir. If your seeing rises each time, then your on the edge of nute burn.
i know my nutes are different, but i get a bit nervous when hitting the 1200PPM mark, as things can get a bit dicey for lockouts.

Believe it or not, coming in at a slightly lower dose, and one that she tolerates better, will give you better growth rate than a stronger dose.
Hafta said:
I look for the tiny little yellow tip on the leaves. This means I am ALMOST overfeeding
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I'm afraid I disagree my friend- though I'm hoping I can be proven wrong.

I see yellow tips, as a mistake in active hydro. It means that the plant was rising in PPM and I missed it (to simplify).
It can happen easily when you have several different strains/plants growing from the same reservoir- but it's time lost.
While those tips were being burnt- she's not feeding at 100%, she's choking (for lack of a better term).

I see a rise, I back them off a bit ASAP, get them feeding and keep the foilage from getting damaged. The trick is how far to lower the PPM by, as it changes with the grow and nutes (mine I go 50-100PPM dilutions).

I'm definitely not trying to start an argument- only a helpful discussion where we all learn. Hafta, your results speak volumes, you know your stuff, and to be honest- what you said, does resonate with what a lot of other members have said. I just don't agree :cheesygrinsmiley: :laugh:
 
Rexer said:
You can, and definitely should back down, especially if you have to dilute each time.
The labels for the strength part, are a very loose guide. Seriously, don't pay too much heed to it, other than ensuring your ratios are correct.

It goes back to reading the plant and the reservoir. If your seeing rises each time, then your on the edge of nute burn.
i know my nutes are different, but i get a bit nervous when hitting the 1200PPM mark, as things can get a bit dicey for lockouts.

Believe it or not, coming in at a slightly lower dose, and one that she tolerates better, will give you better growth rate than a stronger dose.

I'm afraid I disagree my friend- though I'm hoping I can be proven wrong.

I see yellow tips, as a mistake in active hydro. It means that the plant was rising in PPM and I missed it (to simplify).
It can happen easily when you have several different strains/plants growing from the same reservoir- but it's time lost.
While those tips were being burnt- she's not feeding at 100%, she's choking (for lack of a better term).

I see a rise, I back them off a bit ASAP, get them feeding and keep the foilage from getting damaged. The trick is how far to lower the PPM by, as it changes with the grow and nutes (mine I go 50-100PPM dilutions).

I'm definitely not trying to start an argument- only a helpful discussion where we all learn. Hafta, your results speak volumes, you know your stuff, and to be honest- what you said, does resonate with what a lot of other members have said. I just don't agree :cheesygrinsmiley: :laugh:
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Let me say that I took up hydro a year and a half ago and am eager to learn more. I came from a technical field so much of it makes sense. Please, please feel free to pass along information. Discussion is far more productive than attitude. (I did grow outdoors for about 25 years)
I agree that 1200 should make someone nervous. I prefer 900 - 1050, seldom to 1100.
I also agree that the yellow tips are a sign of "not feeding at 100%", thus using them as an indicator.
I'm not seeing any lockout or lack of feeding. I grow a single plant in a twenty gallon reservoir with seventeen gallons of solution. When that yellow gets more than 1/8" I perform a three gallon dilution (about 17%).
The plant currently consumes two gallons per day with a ppm drop of40 - 60 / day in a 17 gallon res. and a slight pH rise (.1 every couple of days). I suppose a 3 1/2 gallon res would be would be five times the ppm drop?
What do you use as an indicator of overfeeding?
 
hell yeah mates
if this is disagreeing, please continue to not see eye to eye!
I am learning and that is why I :love: the members.
why can't my blood brothers be like you folks?
 
Maritimer said:
I am afraid her idea of baking comes in a tube already to go.
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As long as you don't poke her in the stomach to see if she giggles you should still be okay to live there!
 
Hafta said:
The plant currently consumes two gallons per day with a ppm drop of40 - 60 / day in a 17 gallon res. and a slight pH rise (.1 every couple of days). I suppose a 3 1/2 gallon res would be would be five times the ppm drop?
What do you use as an indicator of overfeeding?
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Can you explain how this would be calculated? I am very interested in understanding this, so maybe I can replicate some of your success.
 
Hafta said:
Let me say that I took up hydro a year and a half ago and am eager to learn more. I came from a technical field so much of it makes sense. Please, please feel free to pass along information. Discussion is far more productive than attitude. (I did grow outdoors for about 25 years)
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Ahh, that makes me feel better. I hate coming across as a "know it all", and I wholeheartedly agree- friendly discussion is the best path. And I can't say that I have much more experience Hafta than you. Please remember that. I've only been growing for a couple years as well. I'm always the first to point out--> I am not a pro.

Hafta said:
I agree that 1200 should make someone nervous. I prefer 900 - 1050, seldom to 1100.
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You and I came to the same conclusion. Are you running the trio? Sorry I can't remember right now. I'm sure it was GH, and I think those numbers are consistent for most of their nutes.
Hafta said:
I also agree that the yellow tips are a sign of "not feeding at 100%", thus using them as an indicator.
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Ahh, there we go. I use them as a secondary reading (yeah I made that up). My primary is the roots, cause they can tell you if the plant is feeding good or not, simply by monitoring/logging the PPM.
If the PPM is rising it has to do with osmatic pressure. Ok, @Hafta @Maritimer I edited this, and put the correct information below:
Osmotic pressure actually works the other way - if the reservoir EC is much higher than the concentration in the plant, the plant will release fluid (not nutrients) back into the reservoir in an attempt to equalize the concentration. This results in dehydration in the leaf tips (“nute burn”) AND a lower EC in the reservoir
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DWC & Soil: Verb's Purple Puncher Autos, Mars Hydro TS 1000

Thanks for the tag that 40% rh maybe the culprit . That rockwool says cover me from the light the algae is getting started . It likes nutrients also ! Anytime and thanks for the input West! Mentioned that PP#1 and PP#2 been growing separately. PP#1 is inside the tent wheres 40% RH and PP#2 dwc...
www.420magazine.com
Hafta said:
I'm not seeing any lockout or lack of feeding. I grow a single plant in a twenty gallon reservoir with seventeen gallons of solution. When that yellow gets more than 1/8" I perform a three gallon dilution (about 17%).
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So you keep the same nutes going until you see yellowing? I go by 60% , or 7-10 days. When 60% of the original nutrients have been consumed by the plant, or 10 days have past (except seedling/early veg), then I swap out. That's the routine for me.
Hafta said:
The plant currently consumes two gallons per day with a ppm drop of40 - 60 / day in a 17 gallon res. and a slight pH rise (.1 every couple of days). I suppose a 3 1/2 gallon res would be would be five times the ppm drop?
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I was nodding along right with you until the math question. I think I can say the Ak-47 Auto that I grew is a big :thumb: :ganjamon:- cause truthfully all I can say is 40-60 ppm a day means she's feeding good, and consistently good at that.
Hafta said:
What do you use as an indicator of overfeeding?
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PPM. That's the primary source as I explained above. The secondary would be reading the leaves, as you do.

You want to know something funny? I could never tell you exactly how much water my reservoirs hold:laugh:. I go 100% by PPMs.
Usually I have about 10PPMs in my RO water. I simply add a small amount of my nutes, and take a PPM reading to see if I need to add more, or less.
 
Rexer said:
Ahh, that makes me feel better. I hate coming across as a "know it all", and I wholeheartedly agree- friendly discussion is the best path. And I can't say that I have much more experience Hafta than you. Please remember that. I've only been growing for a couple years as well. I'm always the first to point out--> I am not a pro.


You and I came to the same conclusion. Are you running the trio? Sorry I can't remember right now. I'm sure it was GH, and I think those numbers are consistent for most of their nutes.

Ahh, there we go. I use them as a secondary reading (yeah I made that up). My primary is the roots, cause they can tell you if the plant is feeding good or not, simply by monitoring/logging the PPM.
If the PPM is rising it has to do with osmatic pressure (ill look up a link and edit it in later, and tag you when its added). Basically the pressure of the concentration of the nutrients is higher than what the plants membranes are. The plant equalizes that pressure- and organic material is added into the reservoir, causing a rise in the PPM.

Ok- so if you're still with me- heres the disclaimer- im medicating as I type this, and trying to remember stuff from last year. I probably got terminology wrong, but the overall picture is there.

So you keep the same nutes going until you see yellowing? I go by 60% , or 7-10 days. When 60% of the original nutrients have been consumed by the plant, or 10 days have past (except seedling/early veg), then I swap out. That's the routine for me.

I was nodding along right with you until the math question. I think I can say the Ak-47 Auto that I grew is a big :thumb: :ganjamon:- cause truthfully all I can say is 40-60 ppm a day means she's feeding good, and consistently good at that.

PPM. That's the primary source as I explained above. The secondary would be reading the leaves, as you do.

You want to know something funny? I could never tell you exactly how much water my reservoirs hold:laugh:. I go 100% by PPMs.
Usually I have about 10PPMs in my RO water. I simply add a small amount of my nutes, and take a PPM reading to see if I need to add more, or less.
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I am running sterile hydro and nutes from a non-sponsor but it appears the plants are more concerned with the ppm than the supplier.
I have only seen root issues during the first hydro grow. I corrected that with slow release peroxide (3%). (my res was 75 deg. plus). My roots always look wonderful now and grow so quickly that using them as an indicator would be difficult.
I know the volume of my "root chamber" for a couple of reasons:
1. I needed to know precisely so I could perform a drought in the time frame required.
2. More importantly, I needed to know how long I could be gone trout fishing.
One of the advantages of the yellow tips indicator is that you can see results almost immediately to changes in your solution. The tips are visible in the new leaf clusters long before they ever spread.
With the size of my root chamber I have found that one res will last up to six weeks of veg (I consider above ground as beginning of veg). I start of with the seedling ppm of around 200 and add additional nutes as she grows until I reach around 900. I only add RO, MSA, and Calmag after that. Around 750 ppm triggers a res change so we are pretty close on that one.
 
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