What do you need? SOIL- WATER - AIR -LIGHT- SPACE
SPACE: How big is the room? This affects all other choices.
AIR: I like big fans. It depends on your space.
My First NHtea Grow
- Thread starter nhteatime
- Start date
What do you need? SOIL- WATER - AIR -LIGHT- SPACE
SPACE: How big is the room? This affects all other choices.
AIR: I like big fans. It depends on your space.
What do you need? SOIL- WATER - AIR -LIGHT- SPACE
LIGHT: On the positive side, you have a 400w light. This is good coverage for a 3x3' or 4x4' space.
On the negative side, during flower you want to avoid external light.
I have no experience, but this might not be important for the autoflowering girls.
It can't hurt to block all light from outside the room. Also no light from powerstrips.
Since you mentioned a door, my solution was to purchase a doorsweep available at hardware stores. It is meant to block drafts so out of the box it blocked most light but not all. When I tied a strings to squeeze it to the bottom of the door I could no longer see light leaking under the door.
For the sides of the door I purchased little foam weatherstrips. If I do it again I'll put in wider strips.
Because I was really worried about light leaks, I hung a fabric over the door for an extra layer of protection.
This is probably NOT needed, except for when I do something stupid like I just did, open the door to take a picture during the dark period
Doorsweep (foam noodles in a cloth bag) cut short because I installed a narrow door, and tied to seal light.
Weather strip on door sides and top. Black garbage bag covering spot where light leaks. Fabric inner door.
LIGHT: On the positive side, you have a 400w light. This is good coverage for a 3x3' or 4x4' space.
On the negative side, during flower you want to avoid external light.
I have no experience, but this might not be important for the autoflowering girls.
It can't hurt to block all light from outside the room. Also no light from powerstrips.
Since you mentioned a door, my solution was to purchase a doorsweep available at hardware stores. It is meant to block drafts so out of the box it blocked most light but not all. When I tied a strings to squeeze it to the bottom of the door I could no longer see light leaking under the door.
For the sides of the door I purchased little foam weatherstrips. If I do it again I'll put in wider strips.
Because I was really worried about light leaks, I hung a fabric over the door for an extra layer of protection.
This is probably NOT needed, except for when I do something stupid like I just did, open the door to take a picture during the dark period
Doorsweep (foam noodles in a cloth bag) cut short because I installed a narrow door, and tied to seal light.
Weather strip on door sides and top. Black garbage bag covering spot where light leaks. Fabric inner door.
What do you need? SOIL- WATER - AIR -LIGHT- SPACE
WATER:
I considered water pipes directly into my grow area, but found it just as easy to fill a 5 gallon bucket with 3-4 gallons of water and carry it downstairs a day or two before I need it. This is to let the chlorine evaporate.
I installed a plastic tray that covers my entire 4x8' flowering room floor. This cost about $150.
It comes in handy for spills and very handy for end of flower flush, but in retrospect I don't need it.
I recommend a bunch of seedling trays. They cost about a dollar each at garden centers.
These are the same size trays used for clone domes. Most pots up to a five gallon bucket fit inside.
Seedling trays (with 6 packs and 1 gallon plastic pots)
WATER:
I considered water pipes directly into my grow area, but found it just as easy to fill a 5 gallon bucket with 3-4 gallons of water and carry it downstairs a day or two before I need it. This is to let the chlorine evaporate.
I installed a plastic tray that covers my entire 4x8' flowering room floor. This cost about $150.
It comes in handy for spills and very handy for end of flower flush, but in retrospect I don't need it.
I recommend a bunch of seedling trays. They cost about a dollar each at garden centers.
These are the same size trays used for clone domes. Most pots up to a five gallon bucket fit inside.
Seedling trays (with 6 packs and 1 gallon plastic pots)
What do you need? SOIL- WATER - AIR -LIGHT- SPACE
SOIL: (Soil and nutrients)
There are so many options.
In my limited experience, any soil mix and nutrients will do fine for 3-4 months.
This covers the life of an autoflower and into flower for a "standard" photoperiod grow.
If you want to grow longer than 4 months total then drainage, nutrient schedules, soil/soilless/hydro master a lot more.
Personally, I am interested in 420 soil and Growology for future grows. They can be found under 420 sponsors.
SOIL: (Soil and nutrients)
There are so many options.
In my limited experience, any soil mix and nutrients will do fine for 3-4 months.
This covers the life of an autoflower and into flower for a "standard" photoperiod grow.
If you want to grow longer than 4 months total then drainage, nutrient schedules, soil/soilless/hydro master a lot more.
Personally, I am interested in 420 soil and Growology for future grows. They can be found under 420 sponsors.
- Thread starter
- #65
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
the room is 8' x 10' with a tiny window in it that i plan on blacking out.
There is no light at all in the basement so itll all come from the 400w light i give it. I will have to make some kind of boxed in area maybe 4 x 4. Cover the area with the mylar i bought. I was reading about it for light reflection.
Soil, i think im going to use a perlite mix - i can add stuff from there.
I like the idea about the plastic trays. Ill have to pick some up. should I start the seeds in the pots i plan on growing them in? or should i let the seedlings grow in smaller pots and then transplant? Also I will be filling buckets and letting them sit too. Still getting stuff together waiting on the seeds so i have time to set things up
- Thread starter
- #66
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Preflowers just starting to show. Its been cold here and I dont know if these will have time to finish.
- Thread starter
- #67
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Okay, bugs. Still have something snacking on my plants. Since they are just starting to flower can I still spray them with the azamax stuff or should I use something else? Or just leave them be?
They look alot healthier than they did a few days ago. No more browning and yellowing leaves - the ones that did fell off. The rest of it looks pretty green and healthy
They look alot healthier than they did a few days ago. No more browning and yellowing leaves - the ones that did fell off. The rest of it looks pretty green and healthy
- Thread starter
- #68
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Hey Radogast, how is your battle with the knats going? Any more problems? And is that an inside grow thing to watch for?
Yeah you can still spray with azamax right now. You just want to generally avoid it when the plants are fully budding.
As for your "timing issue"
There is a method I use called "force flowering aka light deprivation"
You can induce flowering at any time by lowering their amount of light. For me, I just drag my plants in and out the garage at the same time everyday. That works since they are in containers, but if you have stuff in the ground, you'd have to be crafty.
Just saying, at least for next year, you are not at the complete mercy of mother nature. If you grow big plants earlier, and then just force flower them, you could see to it a harvest that way.
Just a thought, may be too late for this year, but for next year it's something to think about.
Peace
As for your "timing issue"
There is a method I use called "force flowering aka light deprivation"
You can induce flowering at any time by lowering their amount of light. For me, I just drag my plants in and out the garage at the same time everyday. That works since they are in containers, but if you have stuff in the ground, you'd have to be crafty.
Just saying, at least for next year, you are not at the complete mercy of mother nature. If you grow big plants earlier, and then just force flower them, you could see to it a harvest that way.
Just a thought, may be too late for this year, but for next year it's something to think about.
Peace
- Thread starter
- #70
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Thanks Lester - I wasnt sure at what point I couldnt use it.
Next year I am definitely planting in pots. I dont have a garage but I can make some room in my shed. Wonder if I can transplant them into a big pot at this stage? try to get as many of the roots as possible so i can bring them in hmmm. I dont have an indoor grow so theres nothing to contaminate yet. Maybe Ill try it with the smaller one. If anything itll will look nice with my spider plants and my pothos. I dont have much faith in the smaller one maturing where it is anyways so it would be worth a try.
Next year I am definitely planting in pots. I dont have a garage but I can make some room in my shed. Wonder if I can transplant them into a big pot at this stage? try to get as many of the roots as possible so i can bring them in hmmm. I dont have an indoor grow so theres nothing to contaminate yet. Maybe Ill try it with the smaller one. If anything itll will look nice with my spider plants and my pothos. I dont have much faith in the smaller one maturing where it is anyways so it would be worth a try.
Indeed, you have to accept the fact it's your first grow and so you can ponder with different avenues or ideas to play around with in future.
Transplanting a plant directly out of the ground is one of those more difficult duties that you don't wish you ever have to do. But the skill to be able to do it (esp. for larger specimens) is really an acquired skill. Takes trial and error for sure and that's the best way to learn.
With this first growing season of yours, you will kind of "test the waters" and see what works and what doesn't work for you (given your specific environment)
Transplanting a plant directly out of the ground is one of those more difficult duties that you don't wish you ever have to do. But the skill to be able to do it (esp. for larger specimens) is really an acquired skill. Takes trial and error for sure and that's the best way to learn.
With this first growing season of yours, you will kind of "test the waters" and see what works and what doesn't work for you (given your specific environment)
Gnats are still winning. I'm spraying them with something now. Planning on once every 4 days for two or three weeks.
Can't say about it being an indoor thing, just an indoor thing for me as I start my second grow.
It could have been cross contamination from willow clones (brought in a BIG caterpillar.)
More likely a gnat just flew in from the great outdoors.
They must like it at the little plants, because they haven't shown up inside the flowering room 3 feet away.
- Thread starter
- #73
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
This picture excites me, my first Pistils ever
This picture excites me, my first Pistils ever
There will be a lot more pistils.
You've got it dialed in now.
- Thread starter
- #75
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Ive been trying to stay away from my plants - its like a watched pot never boils. I finally went out today and all are flowering. Even the one I thought might be male has pistils on it. Gave them a good soaking and tomorrow Ill feed them some bloom food before I take off for the long weekend.
I got my seeds in I ordered so Ill be starting them soon indoors. I havent started setting up the room - it definitely wont be anything elaborate but it should be sufficient enough. Time will tell
I got my seeds in I ordered so Ill be starting them soon indoors. I havent started setting up the room - it definitely wont be anything elaborate but it should be sufficient enough. Time will tell
Way to go Ms. tea! Looking very nice. Isn't it fun to order seeds?
- Thread starter
- #77
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Ordering is fun - watching how they are delivered is even more fun. Love the freebees they give you too. Cant wait to start them 
- Thread starter
- #78
nhteatime
Well-Known Member
Week two flowering
Nice.
