If you can get it to grow around the plant you may dodge a bullet.
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If you can get it to grow around the plant you may dodge a bullet.
More than 50,000 or 1 in 20 Nova Scotians do not have a family physician. Mine is well into his seventies, and hasn't retired due to the shortage.
I heard ya, I'm in Dartmouth, my dr retired and I been trying I get to get my health sorted out also. Nice to see someone else from Nova Scotia. I'm in late but looking forward to see your seed harvest. I'm actually starting a seed run now also. Candida, Pineapple Express, cbd shark, and Omar Sharif. My first try and making my own CS.
I'm aiming for 40- 60. Tried using distilled water and deminarized and dident work for my first time . Seemed that it caped out and stopped making cs after about 16 ppm. I'm going to using rain water this time.using 3x 9v batteries in series , and will let it go longer. Adding in a 100 k resister this time. I think without a resister it starts to re-bind the silver due to lowering resistance in the water hence you might need the resister to keep it going slow and preventing rebinding of the silver. We will see. If all works out, I'll post results and do a full journal from start to finish. Going to try and work out the bugs first. I believe it's a 2 times daily application with 30 ppm starting 3 days before flip until you see change.. my first attempt just mutated the hell out of my plant. Think I'll apply to a bigger branch rather than only a top this round. If i fail I'll switch to what old salt is using. Next time....What voltage are you using and what ppm are you shooting for...I'd be interested in your methodology, and end result...cheerz.... ...h00k......
Question tho.. the stuff Old Salt is using, dos it have any risks using it? Can you smoke what you apply that chemical to? I know it's is not recommended with cs.
Cream & Cheese Sapphire Scout: Top View _______________________________________________________________ | Candida Sapphire Scout: Close Up _______________________________________________________________ |
5' Tent / Mars Hydro TSL-2000: Day 26 of Flower
Front View, Left to Right: Cream & Cheese, Candida, Sapphire Scout
Cream & Cheese
Sapphire Scout: Top View
_______________________________________________________________
Candida
Sapphire Scout: Close Up
_______________________________________________________________
We're not even halfway through the flowering stage. The plants have another four to six weeks to go yet. They seem to have stopped their vertical growth. The Cream & Cheese, and Candida are filling in very nicely. The Sapphire Scout is a little behind, but then it has a week longer flowering time. Some of the calyxes of all three plants seem to be more swollen than I'm used to at this stage. I suspect they contain seed.
7' Tent / DIY Eight COB Day 8 of Flower
Left: Candida Right: Cream & Cheese
The buds are developing nicely. The plants are continuing their vertical growth, although this has slowed greatly. The Cream & Cheese only grew three inches (7.5 cm) this week. It's grown into the light, but there was a space for it to do so. There's about six more inches (15cm) before it hits the top of the tent. I'll just leave it alone for now.
The Clones, or Rooted Cuttings if You Prefer:
Clones, or Rooted Cuttings Getting Natural Sunlight
These girls need to be moved out of the window. There are only 14 hours and 18 minutes of daylight now. If I leave them in the windowsill much longer they'll start to flower.
Water is starting to become a problem. With the dry summer so far, the water level in our well is dropping below the foot valve with distressing regularity. I'll need to start buying it this week for my grow.
Nice update, Salt. Relieved for you that the stretch has stopped, or at least slowed down considerably. Sorry to hear that the well is running dry, though. We had a really wet spring here in Ontario, but not a lot since then. I'm on city water, but the lawn is a bit... "crusty."
Still no pollen production on my first couple of attempts. Will keep going, but not optimistic for this go 'round.
Hope you are doing well, and enjoying some nice weather down east.
I'm seriously considering a pair of 1250l IBCs to use as cisterns for rainwater collection during the late summer / early fall.
I wanted to do a seed run, but the sodium thiosulphate delivery is not listed in the postal system yet. If it shows up by the end of the month I'll start a few more strains. In the meanwhile, I'm not letting the grass grow under my feet and I'll start a grow with the strain I have the most seeds of.
Update: The Sodium ThioSulfate arrived 11 Apr 2019. My search for the Great Seed Sea is on! Two other strains have been added to this grow: Sapphire Scout by Humboldt, and Candida from Medical Marijuana Genetics. All three strains were sourced from our sponsor Seedsman.
Strain: CBD Cream & Cheese (Seedsman)
Grow Area: 2' X 4' X 7' (60 X 120 X 210cm) Tent
# of Plants: 4
Container Size: 11l / 3.8 US gal caged grow bags
Lights:
Nutrients: GH Flora Trio and Supplements at 20% label strength
- King X6 Dimmable 1800W COB LED Grow Light (300W from wall max)
- DIY 8 COB Array (Citizen CLU048-1216 3000K)
Medium: 70% coco / 30% perlite
Seeds in the Water (0.3ml CALiMAGic / Liter)
Well surprise, surprise. Twenty four hours after putting them between damp paper towels, ALL of these girls are showing their roots. That's the fastest I've seen in six germinations.
Germinated!
The girls were planted in a mixture of 70% coco / 30% perlite. This has been recycled from a previous grow, so all I did was re-hydrate it with 0.3ml CALiMAGic per liter of water. A pointy stick (like a pencil) was used to make a hole for the girls. They were planted tap root down, with the seed case about 1/4" or 6mm deep. The hole was GENTLY squeezed around the girls so as not to damage the fragile tap root.
Planted!
The Plan:
This grow now has three feminized strains:
- 4 X CBD Cream & Cheese (9 weeks)
- 3 X Candida (9 weeks)
- 3 X Sapphire Scout (10 Weeks)
My goal is to produce seed for all the strains, not to cross-pollinate for new hybrids. I also want a sample of flower from each strain. To achieve this the pollen must be carefully controlled. It may not be allowed free rein through a tent. I have two 2' X 4' (60cm X 120cm) tents I can use, and the outdoors. Here is the general plan for this grow:
- The plants will all be up-potted into final 2 gallon nursery pots;
- All plants will share a tent through the vegetative stage;
- The most vigorous plant of each strain will be moved to the second tent for flowering;
- These plants will be treated with STS to change their sex (F>M);
- Three weeks later the remaining plants will be placed under 12/12 lighting to flower;
- When the F>M plants are nearly ready to produce pollen their colas will be bagged;
- The F>M plants will be separated, one remaining in the tent, two outdoors;
- The pollen will be collected separately for each strain;
- The F>M plants will be destroyed;
- The female plants will be separated by strain, one in each tent, one outdoors;
- Two colas of each female will be pollinated with pollen from the same strain;
- The pollinated colas will be bagged until the pistils die off;
- The plants will be heavily sprayed with water to destroy any remaining pollen;
- The plants will be moved into one tent, or perhaps both if the room is needed; and
- Harvest of different strains, their seeded and sensimilla colas will be staggered.
Sex Reversal of Female Cannabis Plants, or One of Their Branches
I've wanted to try this for a while, but needed to get some growing experience first. Now the time has come to actually do it. I started by reading several threads here. The first I came across used colloidal silver (CS). Later I found out about silver thiosulfate (STS). Reading through several threads I found that CS was prone to failure, although many have used it successfully. STS seems to be a sure-fire method, so I chose that. Here are some links to threads I've found helpful:
About Silver Thiosulfate (STS):
- Icemud's How To Make Feminized Seeds Using Colloidal Silver by @Icemud, 2016
- How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution by @Smokin Moose, 2007
- Colombian Gold Grow: Come Learn With Me How To Produce Your Own Seeds! by @beez0404, 2018
After deciding on STS, I did a fair bit of research, including how to make, use, and store it. This is what I've found:
Silver thiosulfate (STS) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence (aging, flower development) and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as STS thus is seldom used alone.
STS is the most commonly used compound, for creating stable feminized cannabis pollen. While it is not the only method, it is arguably the most commonly used and is quite reliable. Female cannabis plants require ethylene production to form female flowers. STS suppresses ethylene production in the plants, so they will produce male flowers. As the genetics are totally female, the pollen used on female flowers will result in about 99.9% female seed.
Ethylene is a hormone produced by female plants and used to build pistilate flowers. Ionized silver inhibits ethylene production so the plant will produce staminate flowers instead. The are every bit as stable as there male counter parts. Being genetically female the pollen sacs can only produce pollen with female chromosomes. 99% of off spring will be female.
Most sources agree on the 1:5 ratio of silver nitrate to sodium thiosulfate. Some use a 1:4 ratio. Several sources state that metal implements should not be used while making STS. Some sources mention that the silver nitrate solution and STS will stain almost anything they come in contact with. I have verified this. Wear gloves and cover your work surface with wax paper. All sources agree that silver sitrate and sodium thiosulfate should be dissolved separately in distilled water. (Note: Use distilled water, or water from an RO with a de-ionizer. The TDS must be below 5 PPM. Never use tap water, as the silver nitrate and sodium thiosulfate will bond with compounds in the water rather than with each other.) Some sources use a more concentrated silver nitrate solution, but in the end the solution sprayed on the plants has identical silver content. Both the concentrated and diluted solutions should be clear. If they have turned brown, they should be discarded. Many sources recommend the addition of a surfacant to the diluted solution. Yucca extract is often used, although dish detergent is also an option.
There are a wide range of instructions for the use of STS. Some start application of STS three weeks before switching to 12/12 lighting; others start two weeks after the switch. This thread is the only one recommending a single application. Other sources recommend up to once every five days for five weeks.
The dry chemicals can be stored in a cool, dark place indefinitely, as can parts A and B before they are mixed together to form the concentrate. One source states that the concentrate can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to nine months, but will have degraded somewhat by that time. Other sources state it should be used within a month or two. Most sources agree that the solution diluted for application to the plants should be used within a week or two.
I'm about a week away from needing STS, so I've mixed up a batch...
Making STS:
Most sources dissolve 0.5gm silver nitrate and 2.5gm sodium thiosulfate in 500ml ml in separate containers. The silver nitrate solution is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring rapidly to form a concentrate. The concentrate is then diluted with nine times its volume to make your working solution. This approach makes ten liters of the working solution, far more than most of us will use in our lifetimes. I strongly suspect that the reason for this approach is the tiny amount of silver nitrate used. A scale such as many of us have with 0.01 gm resolution that reads exactly 0.5 gm will have measured the silver nitrate with a 2% accuracy.
I have a scale with 0.001 gm resolution, so I chose to make a smaller amount of 200ml of the silver nitrate and sodium thiosulfate solutions. The amount of silver nitrate required drops to 0.2 gm, and the accuracy increases to 0.5%. I could drop to 100 ml or even 50 ml of the silver nitrate solution for a 1% or 2% accuracy, but those quantities are very difficult to measure out. For my purposes 0.2 gm ± 0.002 gm or a 1% accuracy is acceptable. The updated instructions are:
To make 200ml stock solutions:
For Part A, dissolve 0.2 gm silver nitrate into 200 ml distilled water;For Part B, dissolve 1.0 gm sodium thiosulfate in 200 ml distilled water; andStore Parts A & B in separate containers in a cool dark place until needed.These solutions should last indefinitely. If your working solution turns amber or brown as you mix it, discard your stock solutions and make new ones.
Making Part A and Part B Stock Solutions
Note that the sodium thiosulfate crystals are quite large. I needed to break one up to get this close to the required amount. With the stock solutions on hand, it's time to make a working solution. I don't want a lot of it, just enough to reverse a branch or two on three plants. I decided that 200ml would be a reasonable amount.
To make 200ml of STS working solution:
Slowly mix 10 ml of Part A into 10 ml of while stirring rapidly;add 180 ml distilled water while continuing to stir the solution; andpour the working solution into an amber bottle.
The working solution should be discarded when it starts to turn amber or brown.
Note: I sourced the dry chemicals through e-Bay. The silver nitrate came from Riga, Latvia, and the sodium thiosulfate came from Guangzhou, China.
I intend to try spraying some branches, and painting the solution on others to determine the best way of applying the STS working solution. This will be covered in a future post.
5' Tent / Mars Hydro TSL-2000: Day 26 of Flower
Front View, Left to Right: Cream & Cheese, Candida, Sapphire Scout
Cream & Cheese
Sapphire Scout: Top View
_______________________________________________________________
Candida
Sapphire Scout: Close Up
_______________________________________________________________
We're not even halfway through the flowering stage. The plants have another four to six weeks to go yet. They seem to have stopped their vertical growth. The Cream & Cheese, and Candida are filling in very nicely. The Sapphire Scout is a little behind, but then it has a week longer flowering time. Some of the calyxes of all three plants seem to be more swollen than I'm used to at this stage. I suspect they contain seed.
7' Tent / DIY Eight COB Day 8 of Flower
Left: Candida Right: Cream & Cheese
The buds are developing nicely. The plants are continuing their vertical growth, although this has slowed greatly. The Cream & Cheese only grew three inches (7.5 cm) this week. It's grown into the light, but there was a space for it to do so. There's about six more inches (15cm) before it hits the top of the tent. I'll just leave it alone for now.
The Clones, or Rooted Cuttings if You Prefer:
Clones, or Rooted Cuttings Getting Natural Sunlight
These girls need to be moved out of the window. There are only 14 hours and 18 minutes of daylight now. If I leave them in the windowsill much longer they'll start to flower.
Water is starting to become a problem. With the dry summer so far, the water level in our well is dropping below the foot valve with distressing regularity. I'll need to start buying it this week for my grow.
Are you able to supercrop those large colas and let them grow at a 20 degree angle to even out the canopy?
I read at RoyalQueenSeeds that colas growing sideways soak up the light ... but then I thought ... what about the underside of the cola? ...
I am so glad you pointed me in the direction of that Mars Hydro TSL 2000 ... it is doing wonders for my flowering photoperiods!!!
Journal of the Month potential here sir!!!