Multi Strain, Perpetual, Capn Style, Multi Room

Skybound said:
...and he went on to say that RH above 45% continuously is optimal conditions for PM to form, and 45% is a number I aspire to, but rarely get to with this dry ass winter.
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Tell me about it!!!! I think I'm averaging between 25-35%, and if it wasn't for this big storm that's about to hit, I wouldn't be at 42% right now... In fact, even when it rained the other day, it only peaked at 53%, which was a cause for celebration!!! lol I feel like I'm losing about a gallon a week to evap (from the low RH) and a gallon+ to feeding, so my ppms normally stay within about 30-50ppms of starting..
 
in this low humidity, keep a watchful eye for a potassium (K) deficiency. I might have to raise my light for regular foliar feeds just to keep her from sweating herself out.

Edit - I want to bookmark THIS article for later application. It is an advanced method for capturing CO2 and humidity produced by natural gas burning furnaces and hot water heaters. The methods are pretty simple, but b/c of the noxious nature of gas burning, I implore any reader to not proceed unless you are adequately confident in your abilities to work around this type of project as doing so may become fatally harmful to yourself and others in your dwelling.
 
Yesterday morning, I fed all their 2 tea feeding of the week and today I added a fresh 4.75 gallons of corrected nutrient to my 4 larger plants. So essentially I gave a day for the roots to absorb the remaining water in the media as some research kind of pointed in the direction of over watering as a possible indicator of deficiency. I don't plan to extend the feed frequency intervals, but I felt the single day off of the feed wouldn't hurt, plus it would allow the tea inoculation to be that much more effective (IMO). None the less, after only a single feeding from the corrected regimen, I am noticing the slightly yellowish new shoots are darkening a bit which is what I sought, but also the overall canopy coloration is appearing to be heading toward uniformity which is also desired. So my plan is if I can afford to this coming week, build a very simple and inexpensive flower room, well actually 2 of them side by side, each to be given a 600 watt HPS that will illuminate their respective flowering room at opposing ends of the clock to conserve power draw against my 60 amp power panel. So one 600 is burning in the am, the other burns in the PM. @ a 5 amp draw each (on 120 volt circuits), I will only draw 1/12 of available current at a given moment instead of 1/6 for 12 hours, then 0 for the other 12. I am hoping to have 2 plants in flower by the end of next week, but only time will reveal to me what I'm able to work out. Also, I am hoping severe winter temps can be controlled in that attic by using opposing light schedules as 1 lamp will heat both rooms for 12 hours, then the other will heat both rooms. That's the plan anyway.

On another note, all of my gifted clones are looking really well. The OG and CB cuts are both thriving and growing tall. The 2 power flower cuts look haggard still, but I can clearly see many roots through the drain holes down bottom on both, so it's just a matter of time for them. The GDP cuts are definitely the caboose of the pack, but I did spot a single root tip through a drain hole of the worst looking of the 2, and though I still see no root in the best looking one, the addition of new growth up top affirms to me that even though it's slowly moving forward in life, it is moving forward none the less which is reassuring.

If I am able to build those rooms, I am leaning towards sending the PF?? plant in and the Cherry Bomb C plant as those 2 look the best of the 4. But before I commit to advancing those 2, I want to be extremely confident that there are no deficiencies. If I have that confidence at that time, I will put them in the same room to conserve resources and give me time to get more fans and temp gauges.
 
Don't get me wrong, I have seen many grows on here that don't have a live or sterile environment and have been successful, however, to grow anything hydroponically, i.e. soil-less mediums, the plants only have what we give to them. Soil grows have bennies mixed into the soil, and though they are nowhere near as diverse as weekly tea feeds, they are there to some minute degree. However, in hydro, there is nothing that is natural in the rockwool (or your case coco) that will stimulate the roots to grow continually as much as if you had been using the tea on a weekly basis. By doing this, I am constantly cleansing my roots naturally which encourages growth and enables each root to better uptake nutrient and water so in essence, each root is the best that in can be, week to week which then translates into much quicker and measurable gains up top in the skeletal and canopy development. When growing Capn style, a lot of attention is given to the veg time to really fluff up the plant that gets sent into flower that translates into greatly increased yields which is everyone's bottom line regardless of scrog or SOG. To be able to get the plant to be as big as humanly possible in the shortest possible time, the grower has to do what is in his power to provide the most optimal growing environment possible so his plant can produce the most and best quality produce possible. So the better I do for them, the better they do for me.

Every transplant the roots are blast white and many. there is some staining when nute concentrations near 1000 ppm, but that won't be the case in my pics for a while. I don't have to worry about pythium as the bennies keeps that shit in check on a weekly basis and I'm doing my best with all other aspects of my grow, and am improving anything I can every chance I can.

The Ancient Forest was I think less than $20 at a hydro shop and will last me easily 2-3 years. the Aqua Shield was about $15 for the bottle, molasses maybe $5 at wally's and the Great White is about $40 a tub or $20 in the pepper shaker like I have. These products can also be found much cheaper if ordered online, and me probably being the cheapest grower on 420 have found the means to acquire these products last year, I expect to have them, most of'em for easily another year, maybe more as they are only used in small quantities weekly, and those small quantities (1 gallon batches) will likely inoculate and feed all my plants I will have at any 1 given time. If I ever get near using it all, I will increase the amount produced the following week by 50% and make a 1.5 gallon tea.

To read the best write up of this topic, please google search the following language (Copy & paste);

DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

You should have no problem locating a post on another forum by Heisenberg himself.
 
Thanks for the info Skybound! I'm trying to email the vendors of these products and request samples. It never hurts to ask, who knows maybe I'll get some samples of a few and have less to purchase. :laughtwo:

Did Botanicare relabel aquasheild as hydroguard?
 
Unfetteron said:
Did Botanicare relabel aquasheild as hydroguard?
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Originally I thought they both existed on the market, but some added research is leading me to believe HG did replace AS. I was gonna swing by my local hydro shop later in the week and I'll be able to get a more concise answer on that. The UK guys might be especially interested in this as they've been banding together trying to locate on their isle where various products are sold, and trying to locate AS on a market that it no longer is being offered on, might equate to tail chasing.

Thanks for bringing this up.
 
Hey Skybound: I'm gonna search a little more, but I wanna say Capn mentioned that HG might be a little stronger than AS in terms of the potency of the bennies in it.. I may be confusing this with the ArmorSi and the Silica Blast.. Lemme go check the bottles and I'll get back to you..



As for the tea being beneficial; I've used it on my plants, and even though I'm only growing autos, the root systems all look great and big when I'm done with no signs of rot or decay, so I guess all of my knowledge is anecdotal at best, but it seems from the seasoned growers who have done many more plants and can tell the difference, say it works wonders!!
 
Okay, so I just went and took some pictures of both of the bottles.. It does indeed appear they are 2 different things, but represent the same function; a root inoculant. The AS had some trace Micro-nutes in it, whereas the HG doesn't show any. It also appears the HG is stronger, as they only recommend 2ml/gal, vs. the 5-15ml/gal for AS. I also think the AS has a shorter shelf life, as it says to use the entire bottle within 6 months of opening but expires a year or 2 from ship date. The AS says it expires a year from ship date, and there is no ship date on my bottle, so I figure since it's almost done, I'm just going to use it anyway. In fact, I need to make some tea today, so I can use it on Tuesday, and just do a res change on Wednesday..


Hope that helps!!!


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Thanks twizzle, that definitely clears up a lot. My AS is over a year since I opened it and I plan to keep using it till it's gone or gets a foul odor. The Capn and the clerk at my local hydro said the AS is just liquid chicken poop, so it has some N in it at least.
 
GodAm4twizzle said:
Okay, so I just went and took some pictures of both of the bottles.. It does indeed appear they are 2 different things, but represent the same function; a root inoculant. The AS had some trace Micro-nutes in it, whereas the HG doesn't show any. It also appears the HG is stronger, as they only recommend 2ml/gal, vs. the 5-15ml/gal for AS. I also think the AS has a shorter shelf life, as it says to use the entire bottle within 6 months of opening but expires a year or 2 from ship date. The AS says it expires a year from ship date, and there is no ship date on my bottle, so I figure since it's almost done, I'm just going to use it anyway. In fact, I need to make some tea today, so I can use it on Tuesday, and just do a res change on Wednesday..


Hope that helps!!!


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:thankyou: Wow man that's some amazing service right there! +Rep :high-five:

The only reason I noticed is because I've been going around sending emails requesting product samples and the Aquashield didn't show up on Botanicare website. I can get either of them. Which product do you guys think is better?
 
Get the Hydroguard
 
I have it on "very good faith" that this recharge is a very good all in one product, and after the new year, I will be grabbing myself some. Maybe I'll even ask for a sample too.
 
So with the Recharge, you'd need only it and the molasses? That'd help eliminate some of the cost.. That Great White is expensive! I just sent them a sample request. Thanks for the heads up.
 
The recharge has molasses included in that mix. Don't know if it should be used with Ancient Forest, but If/when I get me this product, I will keep using the AF. I will also upgrade to hydroguard when funds are available. I have used Sweet Mycos Tea which also had powdered molasses right in the packet and had good results from that, though I only used it twice, and not consecutively.

The point is, regardless of which tea recipe you choose, your root systems will forever be thankful and show it in explosive growth rates which further enable the canopy that you see everyday to be the least prone to deficiencies and lockouts due to max absorption. That leaves only nute burning we need to be careful with, and if memory serves me, you are running some extremely high nute regimens, even @ 0.7 conversion ratio. When you get into using tea, even after the first use, I have to humbly request that you consider lowering your PPM to no higher than 1200. For us in the cubes, we rarely go higher than 1000 (@0.5), and the more sativa in the hybrid, the lower the threshold can be.

I inspected my roots yesterday and tomorrow I need to get a few more pots to transplant. So when I do that TP, i will shoot some video, but today I will snap a few pics of the beautiful white roots poking through the drain holes in their pots.
 
Thanks for the info! Do you think a bag of mushroom compost from big orange will work for Ancient Forest in a pinch? I've about tapped my greenery fundage till next payday. Stupid bills, and cops. Damn cop got me for 85 in a 55 couple of days ago and tonight I got a ticket cause there's a big crack in my taillight letting white light out...

I will definitely take the advice on lowering the ppm after the first tea.
 
ancient Forest is an Alaskan humus that was collected, which to me suggests that it was not produced. From all my reading/studying to date. Big Orange products aren't really too good for this kind of application save for electrical and plumbing components. I know AG was brewing tea w/o AF since he started making tea with pretty good results so if funds are too scarce, just brew w/o unless the big orange product is confirmed to be natural forest humus only. From what I've seen, they include a lot of tree barks which will make anything highly acidic. Your tea should end up in the desired PH range of hydro, or at worst be a few tenths outside of our comfort zone, but if need be, use small doses of PH adjusters to kind of dial it back into range, but making too great of a shift in PH can kill off the beneficial colony before they get to eat off your roots and rid your system of anything unwanted.
 
GodAm4twizzle said:
Tell me about it!!!! I think I'm averaging between 25-35%,
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Skybound said:
in this low humidity, keep a watchful eye for a potassium (K) deficiency.
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Thanxx for the heads up Sky. The RH in our Veg tent was at 31% when we returned from Thanksgiving vacation. Of course we didn't have the humidifier running, that goes without saying.
 
Skybound said:
For us in the cubes, we rarely go higher than 1000 (@0.5), and the more sativa in the hybrid, the lower the threshold can be.
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Damn!! I think you may have just answered my inner question about why the plants I have growing are so damn sensitive to the nutes!! Even though they're autos, I'm still using a WAAAAAAAAY lower EC than I expected of 0.4-0.5 and I'm still getting some tip burn, but between the excessive dryness, the tea usage has increased this grow, which hadn't before, and the fact that these plants look so much more Sativa than anything leads me to believe these two are simply nute sensitive.. Good for me, I can save on nutes!!! lol Hell, they ran 2 days with an EC of over 0.5 and the next day I IMMEDIATELY saw the signs of nute burn the following morning!!
 
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