Emotionally or physically? I pick up and move my pots twice a day. :nervous-guy:

God I really dislike being the “well actually” guy 😂 however, :laughtwo: I can see that causing an issue. If for no other reason than possible compaction from setting the plants down a little too hard.

Emotionally, perhaps you’ve played music it doesn’t like or listened to some videos it really disagrees with :lot-o-toke: anything’s possible 🤣 (oh boy there goes Keffka, again, probably stoned, again)

In all seriousness though any time I see P in a container I instantly think myco. For those that don’t know myco is the hands down best “releaser” of P. P gets tightly bound up in soils fast and myco are one of the few organisms that can effectively break those bonds and make it available.

The tight P bonds are why we have such a huge problem with Phosphorous runoff in our streams, rivers, lakes and oceans. Farmers and gardeners dump tons of it in the soil only for the plants to get a tiny fraction of it before it gets locked up again.

(SEE WHAT YOU DID @InTheShed 😂 )
 
Do you have myco in the pot and if so, is it possible you upset the myco in Delilah?
Yes, I do. The promix organic veg & herb mix has spores of glomus intraradices added to it. I think all the promix products do nowadays.
I'm not sure what would have damaged the myco though, unless it really doesn't like the ferts I started with.
What confuses me is the speed at which the initial damage spread. It was unusual in soil. I would usually expect to see something like that with hydro.
That Dosidos is such a beauty!!! Goodness, I can taste it from here. One of my all time favorite strains. :)
Thanks iah!
This will be my first time trying it!
Emotionally or physically? I pick up and move my pots twice a day. :nervous-guy:
:laugh:
God I really dislike being the “well actually” guy 😂 however, :laughtwo: I can see that causing an issue. If for no other reason than possible compaction from setting the plants down a little too hard.

Emotionally, perhaps you’ve played music it doesn’t like or listened to some videos it really disagrees with :lot-o-toke: anything’s possible 🤣 (oh boy there goes Keffka, again, probably stoned, again)

In all seriousness though any time I see P in a container I instantly think myco. For those that don’t know myco is the hands down best “releaser” of P. P gets tightly bound up in soils fast and myco are one of the few organisms that can effectively break those bonds and make it available.

The tight P bonds are why we have such a huge problem with Phosphorous runoff in our streams, rivers, lakes and oceans. Farmers and gardeners dump tons of it in the soil only for the plants to get a tiny fraction of it before it gets locked up again.

(SEE WHAT YOU DID @InTheShed 😂 )
I didn't move them around much, but it's something to consider. Her roots weren't as well developed as Delilah's were when I uppotted them, although they did look like they had been fully colonized by the mycorrhizae.
At this point I'm mostly just rolling with it, getting these girls to harvest so I can focus on the Blueberry and Zkittlez in the sponsored journal and put Do si dos in the list of redemption grow plants.
I intend to grow another seed of this strain with one of my remaining Romulan seeds indoors in the not too distant future, probably next winter.
It’s me! 😂
:laugh:
 
Yes, I do. The promix organic veg & herb mix has spores of glomus intraradices added to it. I think all the promix products do nowadays.
I'm not sure what would have damaged the myco though, unless it really doesn't like the ferts I started with.
What confuses me is the speed at which the initial damage spread. It was unusual in soil. I would usually expect to see something like that with hydro.

Thanks iah!
This will be my first time trying it!

:laugh:

I didn't move them around much, but it's something to consider. Her roots weren't as well developed as Delilah's were when I uppotted them, although they did look like they had been fully colonized by the mycorrhizae.
At this point I'm mostly just rolling with it, getting these girls to harvest so I can focus on the Blueberry and Zkittlez in the sponsored journal and put Do si dos in the list of redemption grow plants.
I intend to grow another seed of this strain with one of my remaining Romulan seeds indoors in the not too distant future, probably next winter.

:laugh:

Maybe give her a myco water if you’ve got water soluble myco. The presence of P (ironically) and higher levels of N can also discourage myco growth. Although you said you could see an association. However if you’re already providing extra P this will just be a waste of myco at this point in the grow.

The speed of it like you said is what’s odd about it. It’s like something just stopped working. I was looking at the images and it seemed to happen within a span of 48 hours almost, one minute it was just a little veining then bam. That’s wild. Once she’s finished up I’d take a look at the roots and see if you can see any culprits.
 
Maybe give her a myco water if you’ve got water soluble myco. The presence of P (ironically) and higher levels of N can also discourage myco growth. Although you said you could see an association. However if you’re already providing extra P this will just be a waste of myco at this point in the grow.
I don't have any other myco products here, since the soil is already seeded with them I went with other priorities. Watering with mycorrhizae always seemed odd to me since they need contact with the roots to start the colonization process, but it seems to work for some growers.
They should have another month or so to go, and it takes a bit of time to get a real symbiosis going, so you're right, they'll have to use what they can get from the MC.
The speed of it like you said is what’s odd about it. It’s like something just stopped working. I was looking at the images and it seemed to happen within a span of 48 hours almost, one minute it was just a little veining then bam. That’s wild. Once she’s finished up I’d take a look at the roots and see if you can see any culprits.
One set of leaves went from a slight mottling to pretty much entirely blackened and crispy literally overnight.
I'll see if it's possible to spread a tarp to get a good look at the roots when they're done. We should have a lot of snow by then (we should really have some now, double digit temps in January?) so doing it outside will likely be impossible.
Shlep away Uncle Shed lol. CL🍀
:laugh:
I still haven't decided if I'll do that this summer, or if I'll go with 3 autos for the pots.
 
I don't have any other myco products here, since the soil is already seeded with them I went with other priorities. Watering with mycorrhizae always seemed odd to me since they need contact with the roots to start the colonization process, but it seems to work for some growers.

It depends on how the myco is packaged? Prepared might be a better term. If it’s water soluble it should technically come into contact with the roots as the water moves through the medium. I have always had my own reservations about. I’d rather just apply it to my seeds then in my first transplant hole.

They should have another month or so to go, and it takes a bit of time to get a real symbiosis going, so you're right, they'll have to use what they can get from the MC.

Yep, that colonization time is rough, if you’re outside of your first or second week of flower it’s likely going to be a waste (unless you’ve got a long flower sativa) If I’ve upset the balance of the myco I’ve likely already been rescuing as well so it’s gonna be even harder to get it to bite with the added nutrients.


One set of leaves went from a slight mottling to pretty much entirely blackened and crispy literally overnight.
I'll see if it's possible to spread a tarp to get a good look at the roots when they're done. We should have a lot of snow by then (we should really have some now, double digit temps in January?) so doing it outside will likely be impossible.

😂 it’s absurd here.. It was 60 degrees the other day.. Like a week after being 2 smh.. It’s crazy.. We’ve had a ton of rain that normally would’ve been snow so I guess that’s alright.
 
It depends on how the myco is packaged? Prepared might be a better term. If it’s water soluble it should technically come into contact with the roots as the water moves through the medium. I have always had my own reservations about. I’d rather just apply it to my seeds then in my first transplant hole.
I think it would also depend on how well aerated your soil mix is. The spores are still solid, and would have a hard time making it down to the roots without being filtered out by a thicker soil mix.
Yep, that colonization time is rough, if you’re outside of your first or second week of flower it’s likely going to be a waste (unless you’ve got a long flower sativa) If I’ve upset the balance of the myco I’ve likely already been rescuing as well so it’s gonna be even harder to get it to bite with the added nutrients.
They're almost 40 days into 12/12, about 30 into true flowering. Both have a high percentage of indica, so I'm thinking 30 to 40 more days, as a guesstimate. They both have stigmas changing colour too, so unless they start some major foxtails we should be entering the bulking phase of flowering in a week or two.
😂 it’s absurd here.. It was 60 degrees the other day.. Like a week after being 2 smh.. It’s crazy.. We’ve had a ton of rain that normally would’ve been snow so I guess that’s alright.
We were into the teens below zero for that storm, and then it warmed up. 12C just a few days ago.
We often have a thaw in January, but by then we usually have had a few blizzards to build up the snowpack.
Honestly I prefer snow to rain. The plants out in the yard can deal with a real cold snap better with a layer of snow to act as insulation. This rain puts some of them at risk of rotting roots.
 
I didn't know whether to HaHa or Thanks that post so I went with ❤️

:high-five:

Great White is water soluble where most of the others need to be mixed in.
The thing with Great White is that it's also a microbe and fungi supplement as well as having multiple types of myco (some of them useless for our purposes).
I don't know if any of the mycos are delivered effectively by being watered in when using it.
There were some people on here who were dissolving @DYNOMYCO in water and watering it in, and Dynomyco said it would be ineffective. Maybe the GW is different, but I don't really see how that would be.
 
I didn't know whether to HaHa or Thanks that post so I went with ❤️

:high-five:

:high-five:
Great White is water soluble where most of the others need to be mixed in.

The thing with Great White is that it's also a microbe and fungi supplement as well as having multiple types of myco (some of them useless for our purposes).
I don't know if any of the mycos are delivered effectively by being watered in when using it.
There were some people on here who were dissolving @DYNOMYCO in water and watering it in, and Dynomyco said it would be ineffective. Maybe the GW is different, but I don't really see how that would be.

I believe it’s in the difference in the preparation. Dynomyco is granules and great white is powder. The powder is water soluble and is even recommended for hydro setups.

I’m spitballing on the myco but now I’m intrigued so I’m gonna go find out what the difference is and why
 
Ok so yeah, the way the myco is prepared determines its solubility. Dynomyco is made of granules which won’t dissolve in the water very effectively at all. Great white is a powder so it dissolves easily in water. There’s also liquid myco products available as well to cut out the mixing process.
 
For my current grow, I got the SIPS message (thanks @Azimuth), but I decided it was too much hassle to muck around with my big heavy pots to turn them in SIPS. So instead I fashioned a 'root aeration chamber' for each pot. For Mycos I don't have much choice where I am, the Mycos I am using are a cross between granules and powder. But I am thinking I could just put a teaspoon into the watering tube of the aeration chamber and wash it down to the roots with a watering, as my watering tubes go direct to the aeration chambers where the roots and soil are, it is probably slightly better than going into a reservoir like full on SIPS, unless you have the powder Mycos that can dissolve as mentioned above.
 
I really don't know anything about the science, just that they say:
"Great White’s premium and concentrated formula aids optimum colonisation of root systems by the fungi. The water-soluble powder makes application a snap and delivers the spores directly to the roots for immediate germination."
I've been looking, but the only papers I've found have been on the effectiveness of mycos in field situations, but nothing on comparing the effectiveness of delivery methods.
The only thing I found was a couple of sentences in a Dr. Jimz blog about why they decided not to use a liquid or a powder when making their own myco supplement, so I wouldn't necessarily give much weight to that.
:high-five:




I believe it’s in the difference in the preparation. Dynomyco is granules and great white is powder. The powder is water soluble and is even recommended for hydro setups.

I’m spitballing on the myco but now I’m intrigued so I’m gonna go find out what the difference is and why
Ok so yeah, the way the myco is prepared determines its solubility. Dynomyco is made of granules which won’t dissolve in the water very effectively at all. Great white is a powder so it dissolves easily in water. There’s also liquid myco products available as well to cut out the mixing process.
I'm still curious as to how many of the spores can reach the deeper portions of the root system when watered in.
I'm not disputing that some of them can, just questioning the efficiency of this method of applying them.
I haven't been able to find any studies on it, but my research skills are lacking after so many years out of school.
For my current grow, I got the SIPS message (thanks @Azimuth), but I decided it was too much hassle to muck around with my big heavy pots to turn them in SIPS. So instead I fashioned a 'root aeration chamber' for each pot. For Mycos I don't have much choice where I am, the Mycos I am using are a cross between granules and powder. But I am thinking I could just put a teaspoon into the watering tube of the aeration chamber and wash it down to the roots with a watering, as my watering tubes go direct to the aeration chambers where the roots and soil are, it is probably slightly better than going into a reservoir like full on SIPS, unless you have the powder Mycos that can dissolve as mentioned above.
As long as the spores come into direct contact with the roots it should work.

The only really consistent info I've found is that a) they're helpful b) they take a month to colonize a root system and c) microbes can suppress their growth, but they have no effect on microbe populations.

It's great to have these discussions! I'm going to keep looking for info on how different spore delivery systems work. If I find anything I'll let you know. I can't believe that there hasn't been some study done on the subject given the number of products there seem to be containing mycos.
 
I've been looking, but the only papers I've found have been on the effectiveness of mycos in field situations, but nothing on comparing the effectiveness of delivery methods.
The only thing I found was a couple of sentences in a Dr. Jimz blog about why they decided not to use a liquid or a powder when making their own myco supplement, so I wouldn't necessarily give much weight to that.


I'm still curious as to how many of the spores can reach the deeper portions of the root system when watered in.
I'm not disputing that some of them can, just questioning the efficiency of this method of applying them.
I haven't been able to find any studies on it, but my research skills are lacking after so many years out of school.

As long as the spores come into direct contact with the roots it should work.

The only really consistent info I've found is that a) they're helpful b) they take a month to colonize a root system and c) microbes can suppress their growth, but they have no effect on microbe populations.

It's great to have these discussions! I'm going to keep looking for info on how different spore delivery systems work. If I find anything I'll let you know. I can't believe that there hasn't been some study done on the subject given the number of products there seem to be containing mycos.

I’ve noticed the same thing regarding the studies and it’s started making me suspicious. I don’t like the lack of information. The best I’ve found so far is this from teaming with fungi:

“Most commercial mycorrhizal products include specific directions that should be followed. These inoculation methods may differ, but they all have one thing in common: as many of the fungal spores as possible must be located in a position that ensures that they will receive the host plant’s chemical signals, which prompt the spores to branch their hyphal extensions and enter into mycorrhizal relationships with the roots. Without a signal from the plant, the mycorrhizal spores may germinate, but it will not colonize and it will not benefit the plant.

There are three types of formulations of arbuscular mycorrhizal propagules, a combination of spores and hyphal
fragments that contain arbuscules, which can act like spores. All three formulations can comprise the same spores, but the delivery method is different.

Propagules mixed with granular substances: These mixes are spread into soil or other planting media and onto roots in various ways.

Propagules mixed in soil: These are natural soils that contain known mycorrhizal fungi. It is possible to make your own soil fungi mix using plant root fragments.

Propagules mixed in liquid: The liquid formulation is an important innovation that increases the uses of mycorrhizal fungalspores: they can be used in drip and irrigation systems and delivered to existing plants.

Formulations vary in the particular genus and species of included fungal spores. One size does not fit all. This is why it is vitally important that before applying the inoculant, you read the label and know what is included in the mixture. Make sure you are using the appropriate type of fungi to match the host plant, that the product is viable, and that the packaging offers a general idea of the numbers of spores involved—not so much for viability concerns, but for your own record keeping. You may have to experiment with various formulations and doses, so keeping good notes can help ensure that you settle on the best application methods and amounts.

The best way to establish arbuscular mycorrhizae in agricultural situations is to inoculate seed just before planting.
This ensures that the plants can take advantage of mycorrhizal benefits from the first day after germination.

Inoculant application methods vary depending on the situation at hand.

Seed inoculation Seeds can be rolled in granular and powdered formulations or sprayed with liquid formulas. Spraying seed with water first will help granular mixes adhere.

Seed germination mix inoculation All formulations can be used in the soil in which seeds are germinated. Seed starting cubes, transplant cubes, and growing media for hydroponics can all be inoculated with granular or liquid formulations. Because mycorrhizal fungi thrive in a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0, the media used must have the proper pH to sustain the inoculant.

Bare-root inoculation Bare plant roots can be sprayed, sprinkled with, or dipped into any of the formulations
and inoculation will result.

Bare-root soil inoculation Planting bare-root plants in soil that already contains arbuscular mycorrhizal propagules will result in the formation of mycorrhizae.

Transplant inoculation Both liquid and granular formulations can be applied to the plant roots at transplanting
time. In addition, spores can be mixed into transplanting soil using any of the formulations.

Root inoculation All formulations can be used to feed roots of existing plants, as long as they contact the roots. Liquid formulations can usually be applied to the surface. Granular and soil mixes can be placed on the surface for plants with shallow roots in loose soils, but for deeper roots it is best to provide channels to the root zone. Packing these with granular or soil mixes allows for the root to fungi signaling required for the formation of arbuscular mycorrhizae”
 
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