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CraZysWeeD
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Happy Friday and weekend!
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They make direct crimp pex ball valves too. If it comes down to doing that, I'm confident you could make it all happen. Biggest problem with pex is the crimp tool required to set all the crimp rings. I've got 2 that were over $200 each... but those are for special "Viega" pex fittings. The standard "sharkbite" crimps are nice & simple, last forever, and the tool is like $30.Yeah it's always hard to sketch up things or just try to explain how u think.
I've noticed they often leak from there to. We have some aggressive environments at work were those kind of leaks develop.
Never thought of using pex... don't have more of than a pipe. The purpose of my choice is the ball valves I wanted a small ball valve. My first thought was to use plastic connections and pipe called +GF+, Georg Fischer. We use them to all dosage at work but the ball valves they got is huge compared to ballofix I use now.
They make direct crimp pex ball valves too. If it comes down to doing that, I'm confident you could make it all happen. Biggest problem with pex is the crimp tool required to set all the crimp rings. I've got 2 that were over $200 each... but those are for special "Viega" pex fittings. The standard "sharkbite" crimps are nice & simple, last forever, and the tool is like $30.
Is there going to be any tension on those pipes? (Picking up light by pipe, or hanging light from that pipe) movement can cause those ferrel rings to shift. That was the reason my brain went straight to pex.
Keep them pipes from moving around and you'll stay watertight!
I doubt you will have the same leak issues that I deal with. Low/no real pressure should make it fairly easy to keep the water where it's supposed to be. We can be upwards of 80 psi on the water lines I deal with.Ad epoxy?
I doubt you will have the same leak issues that I deal with. Low/no real pressure should make it fairly easy to keep the water where it's supposed to be. We can be upwards of 80 psi on the water lines I deal with.
Epoxy should handle anything you're throwing at those lights.
5.51 bar would be the equivalent to most residential pressure I deal withHow much pressure is it rated for 10 bar? We deal all pressure here at bar.
Last one welded.
Sounds about right for what i use! Ferrules can be rated for a ton of psi/bar, I just never see it in my job. If we're above 80psi/ 5-6 bar, it's a bit concerning for us because toilet seals can leak under the pressure.Yeah, it's what we got here but I ment how much pressure does the brass ring connection hold for, 10 bar?
Sounds about right for what i use! Ferrules can be rated for a ton of psi/bar, I just never see it in my job. If we're above 80psi/ 5-6 bar, it's a bit concerning for us because toilet seals can leak under the pressure.
Yup... it's a notorious problem with new home construction. House goes for days without anyone noticing and can actually be pretty destructive.I get u. The filler can't close it's valve due to over pressure?
Hey I found you How did I miss that journal link
Very nice liquid cooling system, and you just have to run a tiny bit if the tube outdoors and the Swedish weather will make the liquid comes back inside at around absolute zero
God ryger nabo
After this build is all done how do you think it will affect temps? Gonna run 5 degrees cooler?
I don't like you taking time off from growing, doesn't seem naturalHaha, no idea. Haven't even guessed.
Just made the conclusion that this is more efficient to move the heat from the space than with fans. I'm sucking out that space 200-300 times an hour with the lights on as it was before. Seems not very efficient and that's always based on what the outside temp is like. This way I can cool the lamps without creating a hurricane. I'm happy if I can get the outside room temp in the tent. It's round 24C year round if its not extreme one way or the other.
I don't like you taking time off from growing, doesn't seem natural