Well if it's an organic soil then you shouldn't need to pH your nutes. The soil will buffer it accordingly. Unless the soil manufacturer says you need to pH then you should be fine. Humus and lime are common buffers and if they are in your soil yer good.
actually i was upset and exaggerated
yeah the soil manufacturer said it wouldnt be necessary to measure pH but with problems going on i thought it would be better but guess it is unnecessary
this flowermind line is used both by people with inert and semi inert soils and people with organic soil as a complement
Well we never want to see someone struggle and if I can provide some assistance or guidance then I'm happy to do so. Your plan to put the soils(starter and auto) in one container may seem like a logical thing to do but really you need one or the other. Most companies sell everything you don't need. Next time buy the auto stuff only and not worry about the starter. You can always start the seedlings off in peat pucks or other cheap methods then transplant to the auto soil.
thank god lol
yeah thats it but i couldnt find info about the ratios and formulaOK so I think I found the stuff you are talking about. The liquid fert sounds perfect and the mineral complex keeps the herd happy.
Organic growers will add molasses, teas and all sorts of good stuff. Blackstrap molasses is high in calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium. It also contains sulfur and a host of micronutrients. So yes using molasses provides plants with a quick source of energy and encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms. I'm not up to snuff with all the organic tricks as it's not my specialty but if you do a search on the forums for AACT(Actively Aerated Compost Teas) or Black strap molasses you can probably find amounts to feed and use.
well guess i have to get a carbon filter soon lolShe's showing her sex but hasn't gone into flower yet. The pistils will start from the center of the bud sites that are forming. The parts you are looking at are called the bract.
