WildRosebud
New Member
Awesome work with the nanners and the video however I must ask out of concern..... You ok John? You are pretty quiet in the video lol <3 much love buddy! PpP!
KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal
- Thread starter KingJohnC
- Start date
What he said
Hey Maharaja you got her there an today’s Sri Krsn,s Janmastami so that makes for a very good start to the day 
And these are the so called "Bananas" or "Nanners", SER
Normally these develop inside the male flower and only appear when the male has opened
In a feminised plant these appear when the plant is over mature.
Then she grows just the important part of the male flower
and these would release female pollen if left long enough.
They can also be brought on, as in this case by a form of stress treatment.
These do not contain much pollen, but it is always female pollen as far as I have read.
Please feel free to correct and illuminate me
Mr. Squirryl is very interested and says "KJC."
Hi Rico. Not to side track Jon's amazing journal, but this is some good info here, and I thought I would chime in. In another thread, I just posted some info about my experiences with these male organs, or "bananas" imbedded in the bud, that emerge very late in flower. It is a long post, but in summary, I have never had a "bud embedded" banana actually pollinate another female. So in my case, the pollen is either non existent, or sterile. Comments welcome in the other thread, as not to hijack jon's journal. Pic:
i use this exact method for producing fem seeds, instead of using the chemicals i use the rodilization method or late flowering as menioned by thecapn, i leave mine in flower for a few weeks longer and i get the same results as using the chem option but with less pollen sacs, any pollen sacs that open will produce fem pollen, some bananas dont open but a lot will, if pollen falls out then its good pollen, ive not had any issues with using the pollen to produce fem seeds,
i find the bananas grow out of the buds but at the nodes you get the regular male pollen sacs, but both produce fem pollen, so not sure if its sterile, possible some of them can be but the plant uses this pollen to self polinate and its the method all breeders use to produce fem seeds, so the pollen must be viable to some degree, the only thing i know for sure is you dont get much pollen from each pollen sac, so a lot is needed to turn a whole plant to seed, i just collect the pollen by waiting till the sacs open and tap the plant to let the pollen fall in a tub, then when i use it i brush it on the pistils,
i get lots of pollen from male plants but fem pollen seems a whole lot less, maybe its because the plant only needs enough to self polinate and not to spread it to other female plants,
ill see what i can find out about it been sterile, someone mentioned it a while back but ive not come across anything that suggests this so ill have a quick look around the net and see what it says, but ive not had any problems using the pollen, it produces fem seeds like it should do, so could it just be that some of the pollen is sterile and the rest is ok, every plant ive put fem pollen on has produced fem seeds,
ill see what i can find out about it been sterile, i know if you cut them off and dry them out to release the pollen then they dont always release pollen, i found you need to leave them on the plant to get the best results,
@king, the chem method produces a lot more pollen sacs, thats perfectly clear by your pics, you should get plenty of pollen, with the late flowering methood you would either need a huge plant left in flower or collect pollen from a few fems, but the chem method seems to produce a whole lot more pollen sacs
i find the bananas grow out of the buds but at the nodes you get the regular male pollen sacs, but both produce fem pollen, so not sure if its sterile, possible some of them can be but the plant uses this pollen to self polinate and its the method all breeders use to produce fem seeds, so the pollen must be viable to some degree, the only thing i know for sure is you dont get much pollen from each pollen sac, so a lot is needed to turn a whole plant to seed, i just collect the pollen by waiting till the sacs open and tap the plant to let the pollen fall in a tub, then when i use it i brush it on the pistils,
i get lots of pollen from male plants but fem pollen seems a whole lot less, maybe its because the plant only needs enough to self polinate and not to spread it to other female plants,
ill see what i can find out about it been sterile, someone mentioned it a while back but ive not come across anything that suggests this so ill have a quick look around the net and see what it says, but ive not had any problems using the pollen, it produces fem seeds like it should do, so could it just be that some of the pollen is sterile and the rest is ok, every plant ive put fem pollen on has produced fem seeds,
ill see what i can find out about it been sterile, i know if you cut them off and dry them out to release the pollen then they dont always release pollen, i found you need to leave them on the plant to get the best results,
@king, the chem method produces a lot more pollen sacs, thats perfectly clear by your pics, you should get plenty of pollen, with the late flowering methood you would either need a huge plant left in flower or collect pollen from a few fems, but the chem method seems to produce a whole lot more pollen sacs
ok so this is what i have found,
first the process, the spray and rodilization, using the chemicals the pollen sacs that grow will produce a lot more pollen than the late flowering method, so using chemicals you will have a whole lot more pollen, some plants wont go hermie at all if left in flower long enough, some do and a few dont,
coloidal silver is easy to me, you just need 99.9% pure silver, 9v battery and 2 wires, distilled water pure, if the silver is not 99.9% pure the method wont work, so silver coins or silver wire is the best option, you put a wire on each terminal on the battery, then using crocodile clips or solder you attatch each end to each silver coin or 2 bits of silver wire, you then suspend the silver in the distilled water and leave it connected to the battery over night, if any light gets in it can make the solution no good to use, so a good 12 hours of it been left connected to the battery should produce the coloidal silver needed,
now you can treat the whole plant and it must be treated every day from day 1 of 12-12, most plants will grow pollen sacs within 2 weeks, some strains will take much longer so 3 to 4 weeks plus depending on strain, now it is possible just to spray the lower branches of a plant to produce seeds, how ever its best to treat the whole plant and not use any of the bud for smoking,
so the chemical method will produce a whole lot more pollen, the late flowering method produces pollen but not much as it only needs enough to self polinate, some strains will hermie if left in flower a few weeks and some wont hermie at all, again it depends on strain,
now for the sterile info i have found,
some femenised plants can be sterile, its not often you find a fem plant that is totally sterile but it does happen from time to time, so even using male pollen on these plants still wont produce seeds.
now the same goes with the pollen, some hermies produce pollen that is not sterile and will never produce seeds, again this dont happen often but it does happen, im thinking this relates more to the late flowering method than the chemical method,
thats about all the info i can find on the sterile pollen, it seems even some female plants can be sterile and some hermie plants can also be totally sterile so the pollen produced is also going to be sterile, not just the banana shaped sacs but also the round pollen sacs similar to the ones you see on a male plant,
so by the sounds of it it is possible to make a plant go hermie and the pollen will be sterile, but it also sounds like some femenised plants are also sterile, ive not come across either yet but ive not tried producing pollen from every plant i grow so so far all the pollen ive produced is good to use,
i didnt find any info on male plants been sterile so i guess its just female plants been sterile and female pollen been sterile in some cases
first the process, the spray and rodilization, using the chemicals the pollen sacs that grow will produce a lot more pollen than the late flowering method, so using chemicals you will have a whole lot more pollen, some plants wont go hermie at all if left in flower long enough, some do and a few dont,
coloidal silver is easy to me, you just need 99.9% pure silver, 9v battery and 2 wires, distilled water pure, if the silver is not 99.9% pure the method wont work, so silver coins or silver wire is the best option, you put a wire on each terminal on the battery, then using crocodile clips or solder you attatch each end to each silver coin or 2 bits of silver wire, you then suspend the silver in the distilled water and leave it connected to the battery over night, if any light gets in it can make the solution no good to use, so a good 12 hours of it been left connected to the battery should produce the coloidal silver needed,
now you can treat the whole plant and it must be treated every day from day 1 of 12-12, most plants will grow pollen sacs within 2 weeks, some strains will take much longer so 3 to 4 weeks plus depending on strain, now it is possible just to spray the lower branches of a plant to produce seeds, how ever its best to treat the whole plant and not use any of the bud for smoking,
so the chemical method will produce a whole lot more pollen, the late flowering method produces pollen but not much as it only needs enough to self polinate, some strains will hermie if left in flower a few weeks and some wont hermie at all, again it depends on strain,
now for the sterile info i have found,
some femenised plants can be sterile, its not often you find a fem plant that is totally sterile but it does happen from time to time, so even using male pollen on these plants still wont produce seeds.
now the same goes with the pollen, some hermies produce pollen that is not sterile and will never produce seeds, again this dont happen often but it does happen, im thinking this relates more to the late flowering method than the chemical method,
thats about all the info i can find on the sterile pollen, it seems even some female plants can be sterile and some hermie plants can also be totally sterile so the pollen produced is also going to be sterile, not just the banana shaped sacs but also the round pollen sacs similar to the ones you see on a male plant,
so by the sounds of it it is possible to make a plant go hermie and the pollen will be sterile, but it also sounds like some femenised plants are also sterile, ive not come across either yet but ive not tried producing pollen from every plant i grow so so far all the pollen ive produced is good to use,
i didnt find any info on male plants been sterile so i guess its just female plants been sterile and female pollen been sterile in some cases
its pretty much similar to seedless grapes and things like that, seedless grape are sterile, they cant reproduce so a similar thing happens with these plants by the sounds of it, im trying to find out if the sterile plants still produce pollen or do they not produce pollen from the pollen sacs,
dpp, very good info. Thanks for taking the time to share this. So what you are saying is... you let yours go longer, and you are seeing pollen from the sacs that are embedded in the bud. Just curious, after you pollinate... how long do you wait for the seeds to mature?
I wonder why I haven't seen any pollinated females in my room.
I wonder why I haven't seen any pollinated females in my room.
Happy Weednsday KJC
I have not been following... you made those nanners!!! In that case smiles all around!!
High maharaja I think this is one of the most informative journal,s they way you have put it all down as you have done it has been wonderful
you didn't know? I stay on this journal as the innocent bystander.high maharaja i think this is one of the most informative journal,s they way you have put it all down as you have done it has been wonderful
all i do when i want fem pollen is leave the female plant in flower a few weeks longer past harvest, it dont produce as many bananas as the chemical method but i find after about week 2 or 3 of leaving it after harvest it starts to grow pollen sacs at the nodes and out the buds, i then wait till they open then collect the pollen in a pot by tapping the stem, its hard to spot the pollen sacs at the nodes but if you can see the bananans growing out the buds then chances are their is all ready pollen sacs at the nodes and possibly pollen sacs that are open,
so i leave one of my plants in the flower room after ive harvested the rest, using the chemical method i could produce pollen for that grow, but i use the late flowering method and it takes anything from 2 to 3 weeks after the plant is ready for harvest before it starts to self polinate, so i keep checking the plant every couple of days then when i see the pollen sacs i check it every day, i switch all the fans off so the plant is not moving, this stops the pollen falling out the pollen sacs, then i hold the put under the open pollen sacs and give the stem a very gentle tap and the pollen falls into the pot, sometimes the pollen sac falls off as well which is not a problem as it gives more pollen once its totally dry so i leave these in the pot with the pollen,
so i harvest the pollen over the space of about a week, if i left it any longer then the plant im getting pollen from will self polinate, ive not tried letting a plant self polinate so cant comment on the results from them seeds, but they shoud be fem as their is no male genes involved, not sure on the pheno type from a self polination but it should produce a similar plant to the plant that produced the seeds.
anyways i collect the pollen from any pollen sac that opens, using the late flowering method you dont get much pollen per pollen sac, the plant is only trying to self polinate so it dont need to produce masses of pollen, but once ive collected it i leave it in the tub in a dark dry cool place, usually in the bottom of a cupboard in my living room as temps are stable and humidity is not to high, then when i put my plants into flower i wait until buds have started forming, if you use the pollen to early i find the flowering plant dont continue to flower as normal and dont end up as good as it could do, so i wait until the buds have developed and the plant is well into flower,
i then take the female plant into the same room as the pollen is stored in, make sure all windows and doors are closed so the pollen dont get air bourne, i then use a que tip or very small make up/ paint brush, i then gently dip it in the pollen and even though it looks like you dont have much or any on the que tip you probably have plenty, i then gently brush it over the pistils usually on the lower buds on the plant as their less developed as the main buds so have more time to develop the seeds, i get enough pollen to produce around 100 fem seeds so not a lot but enough to give me fem seeds for future grows or breeding programs,
once ive put the pollen on the pistils i want seeds from i leave the female plant where it is for 3 or 4 hours, after that time you should notice the pistils start to shrivel or a slight difference at the end of each pistil, this tells me the pollen is viable and that bud will then produce seeds, so after the 4 hours are up i get a spray bottle and spray the whole plant down making sure all the leaves and buds i put pollen on are getting a good misting, then i let it dry where it is before putting it back in the flower room, the water kills any pollen that might of got dropped on leaves or any that might be still on the buds, so this stops the fans spreading it round the other plants,
then the seeds will develop and some take longer than others, ive had some plants produce seeds in 2 weeks and others in 4 weeks, i just leave the seeds developing until the seed pods are bursting open which is usually a week or so before the plants ready to harvest, so id say at least 4 weeks is needed to produce viable seeds, if you can leave it longer then it can only help produce viable seeds, outdoors the seeds will fall out as the buds die and dry out, but indoors we dont let the plants die so i like to make sure i have at last 4 weeks of grow time before harvest but the more time you can give the more chance you have of viable seeds.
then when i harvest i hang the buds to dry, if you try removing the seeds before the buds are dried its a nightmare and you get in a right mess and end up squashing the buds, but i let it all dry and when its ready to go into jars for a cure i just get the buds with seeds in and gently pop them out their seed pods, some seeds will fall out as the buds are drying as the seed pod shrinks and the seeds pop out so i always have a shoe box under the drying buds to catch any seeds that fall, most dont but some do so the rest i just pop out the buds once the bud is dry,
then i just place them in plastic tubs and leave the lids of for a week or 2 just in case their is any moisture, after that time i put the lids on and ive kept seeds for 6 months and possibly longer just by leaving them in a drawer in a small dark tub, ive not had any problems with them not germing.
i have found that if the seeds have been developing for a long time like 5 or 6 weeks then the seed shells tend to be really hard and wont germ as well so i scuff some seeds if germ rates are low and then it germs as normal,
so to answer your question i leave my plant in flower for a few weeks longer than normal, this forces it to self polinate, i collect the pollen from any bananas that open and any other pollen sacs that open, some plants you get pollen sacs that look like male pollen sacs and these usually appear at the nodes, on other plants you get just bananas and nothing growing at the nodes, but either method has produced pollen and ive got fem seeds from them
so i leave one of my plants in the flower room after ive harvested the rest, using the chemical method i could produce pollen for that grow, but i use the late flowering method and it takes anything from 2 to 3 weeks after the plant is ready for harvest before it starts to self polinate, so i keep checking the plant every couple of days then when i see the pollen sacs i check it every day, i switch all the fans off so the plant is not moving, this stops the pollen falling out the pollen sacs, then i hold the put under the open pollen sacs and give the stem a very gentle tap and the pollen falls into the pot, sometimes the pollen sac falls off as well which is not a problem as it gives more pollen once its totally dry so i leave these in the pot with the pollen,
so i harvest the pollen over the space of about a week, if i left it any longer then the plant im getting pollen from will self polinate, ive not tried letting a plant self polinate so cant comment on the results from them seeds, but they shoud be fem as their is no male genes involved, not sure on the pheno type from a self polination but it should produce a similar plant to the plant that produced the seeds.
anyways i collect the pollen from any pollen sac that opens, using the late flowering method you dont get much pollen per pollen sac, the plant is only trying to self polinate so it dont need to produce masses of pollen, but once ive collected it i leave it in the tub in a dark dry cool place, usually in the bottom of a cupboard in my living room as temps are stable and humidity is not to high, then when i put my plants into flower i wait until buds have started forming, if you use the pollen to early i find the flowering plant dont continue to flower as normal and dont end up as good as it could do, so i wait until the buds have developed and the plant is well into flower,
i then take the female plant into the same room as the pollen is stored in, make sure all windows and doors are closed so the pollen dont get air bourne, i then use a que tip or very small make up/ paint brush, i then gently dip it in the pollen and even though it looks like you dont have much or any on the que tip you probably have plenty, i then gently brush it over the pistils usually on the lower buds on the plant as their less developed as the main buds so have more time to develop the seeds, i get enough pollen to produce around 100 fem seeds so not a lot but enough to give me fem seeds for future grows or breeding programs,
once ive put the pollen on the pistils i want seeds from i leave the female plant where it is for 3 or 4 hours, after that time you should notice the pistils start to shrivel or a slight difference at the end of each pistil, this tells me the pollen is viable and that bud will then produce seeds, so after the 4 hours are up i get a spray bottle and spray the whole plant down making sure all the leaves and buds i put pollen on are getting a good misting, then i let it dry where it is before putting it back in the flower room, the water kills any pollen that might of got dropped on leaves or any that might be still on the buds, so this stops the fans spreading it round the other plants,
then the seeds will develop and some take longer than others, ive had some plants produce seeds in 2 weeks and others in 4 weeks, i just leave the seeds developing until the seed pods are bursting open which is usually a week or so before the plants ready to harvest, so id say at least 4 weeks is needed to produce viable seeds, if you can leave it longer then it can only help produce viable seeds, outdoors the seeds will fall out as the buds die and dry out, but indoors we dont let the plants die so i like to make sure i have at last 4 weeks of grow time before harvest but the more time you can give the more chance you have of viable seeds.
then when i harvest i hang the buds to dry, if you try removing the seeds before the buds are dried its a nightmare and you get in a right mess and end up squashing the buds, but i let it all dry and when its ready to go into jars for a cure i just get the buds with seeds in and gently pop them out their seed pods, some seeds will fall out as the buds are drying as the seed pod shrinks and the seeds pop out so i always have a shoe box under the drying buds to catch any seeds that fall, most dont but some do so the rest i just pop out the buds once the bud is dry,
then i just place them in plastic tubs and leave the lids of for a week or 2 just in case their is any moisture, after that time i put the lids on and ive kept seeds for 6 months and possibly longer just by leaving them in a drawer in a small dark tub, ive not had any problems with them not germing.
i have found that if the seeds have been developing for a long time like 5 or 6 weeks then the seed shells tend to be really hard and wont germ as well so i scuff some seeds if germ rates are low and then it germs as normal,
so to answer your question i leave my plant in flower for a few weeks longer than normal, this forces it to self polinate, i collect the pollen from any bananas that open and any other pollen sacs that open, some plants you get pollen sacs that look like male pollen sacs and these usually appear at the nodes, on other plants you get just bananas and nothing growing at the nodes, but either method has produced pollen and ive got fem seeds from them
ChopBro
New Member
Good THCursday all 
Happy Freeweed day KJC
Good day Maharaj
ChopBro
New Member
Happy Friedday KJC & loyal subjects Hope everyone has a stellar weekend (off for 4 days) 
Similar threads
