JustMeds R & D

Hey JM I know you are quite clever and will have no problems wiring that temp controller up (unlike me) but if you were interested in a cheap, no work involved option, fleabay also sell reptile thermostat controllers which virtually do the same thing that does I believe, and also has a second outlet that is timer controlled. I use one to run my fridge, as well as the light in my fridge.

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Tunkers said:
Hey JM I know you are quite clever and will have no problems wiring that temp controller up (unlike me) but if you were interested in a cheap, no work involved option, fleabay also sell reptile thermostat controllers which virtually do the same thing that does I believe, and also has a second outlet that is timer controlled. I use one to run my fridge, as well as the light in my fridge.
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I had never noticed the STC-1000 till last night. https://youtu.be/TQjicdtDVrQHere is the video on you tube that sold me on giving it a try. They are cheap as hell also.

 
JustMeds said:
I had never noticed the STC-1000 till last night. https://youtu.be/TQjicdtDVrQHere is the video on you tube that sold me on giving it a try. They are cheap as hell also.

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That Aussie boofhead using a plastic container to house the unit sold you on it?? Hahaha yeah they look cheap but wiring shit scares me. Just sharing a plug n play option for anyone else following at home lol
 
Ok, got the first light put together. This one is 312 led's at 4000k (Veg light). It has the Meanwell HLG-240h-36A driver. It has the two pots for adjustment. Can I ask how those of you that have used this driver have decided and come up with your way of adjusting them? Is it a balance act between them or take voltage or wattage draw at wall. I have both pots turned all the way down and its been running an hour and I don't think its any hotter then ambient room temp. Will get a pic of layout in a bit.

Now I have to get the other one together.
 
JustMeds said:
Ok, got the first light put together. This one is 312 led's at 4000k (Veg light). It has the Meanwell HLG-240h-36A driver. It has the two pots for adjustment. Can I ask how those of you that have used this driver have decided and come up with your way of adjusting them? Is it a balance act between them or take voltage or wattage draw at wall. I have both pots turned all the way down and its been running an hour and I don't think its any hotter then ambient room temp. Will get a pic of layout in a bit.

Now I have to get the other one together.
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Keen to see the goods mate
 
I am looking for some ideas here. This is one of the little Durban plants, not sure what is wrong just starting to research it. I have 3 Durban's all popped from seeds. This is the worst one, another is starting to have a little of this look, the 3rd looks fine. All the rest of the young plants look fine. I have looked at it close with magnified head gear and seen no critters. I think the next step will be to pull it out and go over it with the microscope to see if that shows anything. If you have any ideas let me know, it will narrow down my search.

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Here is a pic of the assembled light. I used a 25' extension cord, cut the end off and wired it to the light the other end was then wired to the driver. This will allow the driver to be placed outside the tent and can be separated into 2 components to move when needed. Quick connect's on the top of the light for the cord are different so the positive and negative can not be switched on accident. It is every bit as bright as my true QB. I have to get some info on how to set the pots on top for adjustment. The last pic is it in veg tent with the QB behind it.

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Your use of the extension cord is dope AF. I'm stealing that idea!
To set the driver, measure the voltage output and set it to what the boards need to see. Then measure the current at the light to set the amperage. If you're running the driver through a KillAWatt meter then you can adjust the Amperage pot by seeing what the driver is pulling from the wall. Does that make sense?
 
Rider509 said:
Your use of the extension cord is dope AF. I'm stealing that idea!
To set the driver, measure the voltage output and set it to what the boards need to see. Then measure the current at the light to set the amperage. If you're running the driver through a KillAWatt meter then you can adjust the Amperage pot by seeing what the driver is pulling from the wall. Does that make sense?
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Ya it makes sense. I am not sure what the voltage is on these boards... LOL They don't come with a lot of english documentation... wait any documentation..LOL

My guess is looking at board. Its 12 in series and I think those LED's are 3.3 volt. If so they should take all of the 36 volts.
 
JustMeds said:
Ya it makes sense. I am not sure what the voltage is on these boards... LOL They don't come with a lot of english documentation... wait any documentation..LOL

My guess is looking at board. Its 12 in series and I think those LED's are 3.3 volt. If so they should take all of the 36 volts.
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Each LED is a nominal 3 volt, so that's 36 volts. Leave voltage as it is, and use amperage to dim the drivers.

Each LED is rated at 65ma and these boards have 26 diodes in parallel, so that's 1690ma. At 65ma the diodes draw about 2.8 volts, so 1.690x(2.8x12) = 57 watts nominal. The driver will deliver up to 240 watts into 36 volts, and you're running two boards in parallel on each driver? So, full out, you'll get 120 watts per board. Max is 200ma per diode - about 170 watts. :hmmm: 120 watts feels a bit hot.

You can adjust the wattage (amperage) from 100% to 50% with the screw under the black plug.

:Namaste:
 
Graytail said:
Each LED is a nominal 3 volt, so that's 36 volts. Leave voltage as it is, and use amperage to dim the drivers.

Each LED is rated at 65ma and these boards have 26 diodes in parallel, so that's 1690ma. At 65ma the diodes draw about 2.8 volts, so 1.690x(2.8x12) = 57 watts nominal. The driver will deliver up to 240 watts into 36 volts, and you're running two boards in parallel on each driver? So, full out, you'll get 120 watts per board. Max is 200ma per diode - about 170 watts. :hmmm: 120 watts feels a bit hot.

You can adjust the wattage (amperage) from 100% to 50% with the screw under the black plug.

:Namaste:
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Thanks, that is exactly the explanation I was looking for. I have to wait for coffee to kick in so it will sink in..
 
Graytail said:
Each LED is a nominal 3 volt, so that's 36 volts. Leave voltage as it is, and use amperage to dim the drivers.

Each LED is rated at 65ma and these boards have 26 diodes in parallel, so that's 1690ma. At 65ma the diodes draw about 2.8 volts, so 1.690x(2.8x12) = 57 watts nominal. The driver will deliver up to 240 watts into 36 volts, and you're running two boards in parallel on each driver? So, full out, you'll get 120 watts per board. Max is 200ma per diode - about 170 watts. :hmmm: 120 watts feels a bit hot.

You can adjust the wattage (amperage) from 100% to 50% with the screw under the black plug.

:Namaste:
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God, I love to see you get all excited about playing the numbers. :laughtwo: Good morning Graytail. :hugs:

Good morning to you too, JustMeds. :hugs: Congrats on getting the light together. I believe Dan at Timber Lights gave me a stronger driver, bless that man. I went over and looked and my pair of 4000k quantum boards are running on an HLG240H-C2100B. I recall him explaining to me that he ordered this one special to eliminate any potential concerns. He takes good care of me, Dan does. :battingeyelashes:

The extension cord you so cleverly rigged up, is it rated heavy enough for the draw? I tend to gravitate to heavy-duty appliance extension cords for this work. My late husband was an electrician in one of his many professional suits. He drilled into me a healthy respect for electrical power.

Good grief man, that plant has big, gorgeous, healthy leaves. :bravo: Obviously, you follow instructions better than I. :battingeyelashes: It must make you salivate every time you open the tent. :laughtwo: I do that every time I peek in on my Jamaican and get slapped in the face with the smell of fresh mango. And she's only halfway through. Lol!

I'd chalk the Durbin leaves to genetics. I've only had a couple that didn't pull through by fifth node. That's my limit for an underperforming seedling. Look bad at the fifth node and someone else gets your dance card.
 
Just got a chance to have another quick look in here. Still looking excellent.

Within a few months down the road I will be looking into making some led lights. Seems this will be a good place to keep watching for ideas on that. I had planned on putting together qb120 boards because they don't seem to need fans/heat sinks and the price on those little boards was reasonable. Are your heat sinks just sheets of Aluminum? It is a bit hard to tell from the pictures.

I thought about ordering some Chinese strips and making a board but have read about lots of issues with people getting them with less then desirable quality diodes.
 
SweetSue said:
God, I love to see you get all excited about playing the numbers. :laughtwo: Good morning Graytail. :hugs:

Good morning to you too, JustMeds. :hugs: Congrats on getting the light together. I believe Dan at Timber Lights gave me a stronger driver, bless that man. I went over and looked and my pair of 4000k quantum boards are running on an HLG240H-C2100B. I recall him explaining to me that he ordered this one special to eliminate any potential concerns. He takes good care of me, Dan does. :battingeyelashes:

The extension cord you so cleverly rigged up, is it rated heavy enough for the draw? I tend to gravitate to heavy-duty appliance extension cords for this work. My late husband was an electrician in one of his many professional suits. He drilled into me a healthy respect for electrical power.

Good grief man, that plant has big, gorgeous, healthy leaves. :bravo: Obviously, you follow instructions better than I. :battingeyelashes: It must make you salivate every time you open the tent. :laughtwo: I do that every time I peek in on my Jamaican and get slapped in the face with the smell of fresh mango. And she's only halfway through. Lol!

I'd chalk the Durbin leaves to genetics. I've only had a couple that didn't pull through by fifth node. That's my limit for an underperforming seedling. Look bad at the fifth node and someone else gets your dance card.
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The other light I have to put together yet has the HLG-240H-C2100B driver. Just have not got to it yet. That is a 304 LED panel setup just like my QB board all ready in the tent.

The extension cord is way over kill for what it has to do.

Thanks, on the plant comments. She is no where near what I was expecting, I thought much bigger, got hardly any stretch. Next run of this one will be different. :thumb:

I think so on the Durbin's also, I so hope I get a female from the bunch. I see a Durbin cob in the future.
 
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